DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

Why Do We Need To Do This?

When you're working with tall structures such as a mountain range, it can sometimes be difficult to grasp how tall they really are but if you add an object the viewer recognises the scale of, it's much easier for them to understand how big the other object is. As a result, your shot will have various points of interest that can lead the eye through the frame, depth and scale. Another reason for doing this is to give your shot impact. For example, when you see an image of the desert with a person mid-frame you are suddenly reminded of the sheer size of the landscape which often results in a 'Wow' moment.

 

What To Use?

People work well as they are an easily recognisable shape that's easy to grasp the size of. In turn, this makes it easier for the viewer of the image to understand how vast the area is that's surrounding the person. Of course, you can use other objects that are easily recognisable or even part of a subject. This works well with very large man-made objects such as cruise liners as it suggests they are so big, they can't be fitted into the frame. Add holidaymakers walking next to it and suddenly you're realising that it's a huge piece of engineering.

 

 

Where To Position Your Person / Object?

Positioning your secondary subject roughly anywhere from the middle to the back of the shot will make it easier for the viewer of your image to grasp the size of the mountains, dunes trees or whatever else sits in the surrounding shot.

If it's difficult for your subject to reach this area of the shot move further back if you can or if you have to, position them in the foreground without pulling focus from the landscape. If you position your secondary subject too close it can distort the perspective as your foreground subject will appear larger in the frame but this still shouldn't be a problem if you're using a person.

 

 

Change Perspective With Your Lens

The lens you choose to use and its focal length can change the perspective of your shot too.

By moving the position you're shooting from, altering the zoom or by using a different type of lens altogether will change how the final image looks and in some cases the distance that appears to be between objects in the frame. For example, you may be shooting a landscape that has a single house or tree in it and by using a wide-angle lens you can include more of the scene around the object, creating a sense of isolation and demonstrating how small it is compared to what else is in the frame. Go the opposite way and zoom in or use a telephoto lens to pull the object to you and it will fill the frame, becoming more of a focus rather than a way to express the size of its surroundings.
 

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Daylight is free and it is wonderful for portrait work as not only is it flattering and photogenic but it's really easy to work with so it's a good place for beginners to start. You don't need a fancy studio, either, as you can pick a location outdoors or simply set-up next to a window in your own home.  

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1. Light & Time Of Day

To take good portraits with light from a window you don't need a lot of space but do try and avoid an area/time of day where direct sunlight is flowing through the window to avoid contrast problems. If you can, work on an overcast day because the light will be naturally diffused and won't be too harsh. 

As we are working with window light, you don't want other light sources spoiling your shot so turn your house lights off for neutral results.

 

2. Use A Reflector 

You'll probably need to bounce some light onto your subject's face and the best way to do this is with a reflector. You can either use a purpose-made one, some white card or some silver foil stuck onto a sheet of MDF will do.

In case you don't have someone to hand, a tripod makes a good reflector holder or you can hold the reflector yourself and set the camera on a self-timer. Or, you could use a reflector designed to be held by a photographer. If you are shooting tightly cropped images, the model can hold the reflector for you, too.

 

 

3. Metering Tips 

If you use manual metering, take a reading from the model's face and not the window. If you meter from the window it will think the scene is brighter than what it is and as a result, your subject will be underexposed.
 

4. Get The White Balance Right 

It is worth trying different white-balance settings. Auto white-balance can work well, but try shade or cloudy for warmer looking images.  
 

5. Framing & Capturing Your Portrait 

Get in as close as you can to capture/use as much daylight as possible. A tripod is useful, hand-held can work just as well but make sure you are shooting at a reasonably fast shutter speed and remember to focus on the eyes. Crop in tight on the face and if you wish, you can use the window to help frame the shot.

Most people are not natural posers so communication and guidance are important. For posing ideas, check out the fashion magazines and images in our gallery, too.
 

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© Skylum

 

Skylum is celebrating four years of Luminar Neo, reflecting the impressive evolution of its AI-powered photo editing software since its 2022 launch. A standout achievement came in late 2025 when Luminar Mobile received Google Play’s Best Multi-Device App Award, recognizing its smooth and consistent experience across phones, tablets, and desktops. To thank its growing community, Skylum is offering new customers discounts of up to 74%, creative anniversary gifts, and a special video message from the team.

 

From Skylum:

The software company Skylum is celebrating four years of Luminar Neo. The AI-powered photo editing software enables access to professional photo editing for both experienced photographers and beginners with just a few clicks. To mark the anniversary, Skylum’s development team has released a dedicated video. It particularly honors the creativity of Luminar Neo users and serves as a thank-you for the shared journey so far.

The video is available here:

 

From Desktop App to Ecosystem

Since its launch, Luminar Neo has evolved from a standalone desktop application into a fully developed cross-platform ecosystem seamlessly connecting PC, iOS, Android, and ChromeOS. The software synchronizes photo editing across all devices, allowing users to edit photos on the go using a smartphone or tablet and finalize them later on a desktop if desired. Advanced AI technologies can be used to automatically analyze image content as well as add or remove elements. This makes editing significantly faster, more precise, and more intuitive.

 

Google Awards 2025: Best Multi-Device App

A major highlight of the past year: Luminar Mobile was named Best Multi-Device App at the Google Play Best of 2025 Awards. The award particularly recognizes the seamless cross-platform use of the Android app, including Chromebook support, as well as its integration into desktop workflows. This category honors apps that provide an especially consistent and high-quality user experience across multiple devices.

“Four years of Luminar would not have been possible without our loyal community. We thank all our users for their trust, creativity, and valuable feedback, which plays a key role in the ongoing development of our software. Our goal is to continuously improve Luminar so that professional photo editing remains as simple, intuitive, and accessible as possible for everyone in the future,” says Yevhenii Tymoshenko, CMO at Skylum.

 

Benefits for New Customers

Skylum is currently offering various licenses with discounts of up to 74% as well as an anniversary gift:

• Perpetual Desktop License: Luminar Neo for Desktop (macOS, Windows) – €64.99 instead of €357.00
• Perpetual Multi-Device License: Luminar Neo for Desktop + Mobile App for iOS, Android, ChromeOS – €84.99 instead of €405.00
• Perpetual Max License: Luminar Neo for Desktop, Mobile App for iOS, Android, ChromeOS, and access to the Creative Library – €99.99 instead of €464.00

For more information about the deals, please visit Skylum's website. 

 

About Luminar Neo

Luminar Neo (skylum.com/luminar) is a powerful, AI-driven photo editing software developed by Skylum, a global company specializing in imaging technology. The software combines an intuitive user interface with advanced AI technologies to make professional-level photo editing accessible to everyone—whether beginners or experienced photographers. Thanks to Generative AI, users can effortlessly remove elements, extend backgrounds, or replace objects in just a few clicks. Enhance AI brings together more than 20 adjustments in a single tool, automatically optimizing color, detail, and exposure, while tools such as Relight AI and Atmosphere AI enable precise control over lighting moods and depth effects. Luminar Neo also offers non-destructive editing, RAW support, layers and masking features, as well as seamless integration into existing workflows. From portrait retouching and landscape enhancement to creative photo compositions, Luminar Neo revolutionizes photo editing with cutting-edge AI and unlocks entirely new creative possibilities for photographers.

As a comprehensive ecosystem, Luminar Neo also enables cross-device editing between desktop and mobile devices, allowing projects to be continued anytime, seamlessly. With integrated web galleries via “Spaces,” AI-powered photo restoration for old or damaged images, and an intelligent AI Assistant that provides personalized editing suggestions, the software supports creatives throughout the entire workflow—from the initial idea to the final presentation.

You can wait for hours, days or months for the right sky and still be disappointed. But don't get too downhearted as a little bit of digital processing will give your image the sky it needs.
 

Photograph The Sky Whenever & Wherever 

Before we get to this stage we need a sky to import and having a library of stormy, bright blue and sunset-coloured skies is a time-saving idea that's practical and easy to create. In other words, just shoot interesting skies whenever you see one and do so with wide-angle, standard and telephoto lenses. Also, consider the many varieties of lighting - back, frontal, side, for example - so you build a library of sky images to cover all creative options.

  Quick Gear Checklist 

For most skies in the open, all you need is a wide-angle or standard zoom lens but a long telephoto lens can be useful too. If you're planning on taking several images of the sun LiveView is crucial as you don't want to be looking down the lens with it burning back into your eyes. A strong neutral density filter will help reduce the sun's glare and a polariser is perfect for creating saturated blue skies.

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Fill The Frame With Sky 

Usually, you're told to remove some of the sky but this time it's our focus so you want to shoot from a position that allows you to get plenty of it in the frame and be in a location where there are no distracting objects such as trees, buildings and long grasses.

Pay attention to which direction the light is coming from and note it down as you don't want to use a sky with light coming from the left when shadows on your original image lay in the opposite direction.

Don't ignore the clouds either as they can alter the light and make certain areas of the shot darker than others. For sunsets, which work well dropped into shots of people or buildings silhouetted, you need to fill the shot with the sun but don't stare at it through the lens as this will damage your eyes. Use LiveView, point and press.

Stormy skies are perfect for atmospheric shots where castles or any other old building are your centrepieces. Watch for breaks in the clouds where long streaks of sunlight burst through for more interesting images.

For more tips on replacing skies or shooting images where the sky is your main focus, have a look at these tutorials: 

• Shooting Landscapes With Interesting Skies
• Create A Dramatic Sky In Photoshop
• Enhancing Sky In Photoshop
• How To Replace A Sky In Elements
• Adding A Sky Behind A Lighthouse
• Photographing Beach Huts With A Big Sky

 

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Vignettes aren't a new editing trick, in fact, when darkrooms were still widely in use photographers would apply dodging and burning masks to images during the processing or use filters on their camera lenses when taking the shots. Now the effect is usually re-created digitally with software but the reason for applying them hasn't changed. They are still a simple yet, subtle way to guide/draw the eye to your main subject and frame shots.

The effect has also grown in popularity thanks to cameras such as Holgas becoming popular again. This 'hipster' look is now rather desirable so using techniques that re-create this, what was an unintentional vignette, on digital images is now something even apps are doing. In fact, creating vignettes on photos taken with mobile phones is one of the effects that's listed in our Ten Photoshop Techniques To Do On An iOS App article.

 

How And Why

When it comes to applying vignettes, less is usually better than more as if you make the effect too strong and obvious, it can end up spoiling your shot rather than enhancing it. Of course, there are times when a stronger vignette will work, such as with moody black & white landscapes, but most of the time subtle will be the way to go.

You should apply a vignette once all your other edits are complete as adjustments such as cropping may change the overall look of the image and the vignette could end up sitting in the wrong place or highlighting part of the shot you didn't want it to. This isn't true in Lightroom, though, as we'll explain further into the tutorial.

You can create vignettes in several applications including Photoshop, GIMP and Lightroom. For those wanting to learn more about the vignette options available in Lightroom, carry on reading this tutorial. For those looking for tips on how to create vignettes in Photoshop or GIMP, click on the following links:

 

• Four Ways To Create A Vignette In Photoshop
• How To Create A High-Key Vignette Using GIMP

 

Vignettes In Lightroom

When you open the develop module in Lightroom you'll see there are two Vignetting options. The first can be found under Lens Corrections and this is designed to decrease or even fully remove the vignetting caused by the lens when the image was taken. The changes are applied to the corners of the full-frame image and two sliders allow you to alter the strength and positioning of the effect.

 

Move the Amount slider to the right and the figure will increase, lightening the corners as the slider moves. Pull it to the right and the figure will decrease, darkening the corners. The Midpoint slider alters the area the vignette is applied to. Move the slider to the left and the vignette amount adjustment is applied to a larger area away from the corners, pull the slider in the opposite direction and this will restrict the adjustment area nearer to the corners of the image.

 

The Post-Crop Vignetting tool is one that's designed for more creative purposes and once applied, will stay on your image even if you decide to crop the shot again. There are also more editing controls available under the Post-Crop Vignetting tool, giving you more control over how the final vignette will look.

Three types of vignettes are available and these are accessed from the Style menu. These three options will alter how the vignette you apply blends with the photo you're editing. Highlight Priority is set as the default option and will create a vignetting effect that you're most familiar with.

Once you've picked your Style (we are using Highlight Priority) you can use the various sliders to adjust the vignette.
 

Amount

Pull this slider to the right and the vignette will lighten, pull it to the left and it will appear darker.

Midpoint

This will change how much of the image away from the edges the vignette is applied to. Pull the slider left and the vignette's size will be increased, pull it to the right and it will retreat back into the corners of the shot.

 

Roundness

This changes the shape of the vignette to give it rounder or straighter edges. If you pull the slider to the left the shape is more rectangular/square while pulling it the opposite way will make the vignette more circular.

 

Feather

This adjusts how hard or soft the edges of the vignette are. A harder vignette (which you get by pulling the slider to the left) generally doesn't look as good as feathered vignettes as it creates a shape that's too defined. The second image, which shows a vignette with a higher feathered value, is much softer.

 

Highlights

When in Highlight or Colour Priority the Highlights slider becomes active if you've used a negative value when adjusting the amount (so the vignette is dark). Pulling the Highlights slider to the right will, according to Adobe, 'control the degree of highlight contrast preserved'. In other words, it allows you to control how little or much highlight contrast there is in your vignette.

See the difference in these two images when the slider is set at 0 then 45:

 

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Before heading out for a shoot or even while on one, make sure you don't overlook some of the most important but basic things. To stop you doing this, we've put together a quick checklist which may seem obvious but the things on it can often be overlooked and can cause a day out shooting to descend into chaos!
 

1. Charge Your Camera's Batteries

 

The most important thing to remember is to make sure that your batteries are charged. If not, your day out will be rendered useless when you discover that your battery has died. If your battery is low the night before but you don't want to charge it before it's fully dead, consider wearing the battery down on purpose so it can be fully charged overnight. You could also consider taking a spare battery if you have one, or a spare camera if you don't, so at least you can still shoot if your primary equipment fails.
 

2. Memory Card Check

You should ensure your memory card is not full or going to be quickly filled when you're out shooting. Always carry a spare card or two just in case one goes missing or shows a fault.

 
3. What Am I Trying To Say?

 

How you frame, light and compose your shot will provoke a different feeling, thought or emotion so think about what message you're trying to convey before hitting the shutter button.

4. Watch The Horizon

 

One of the main things to remember is to keep your horizon straight. If not, the shot will look wonky. If you're on flat ground, an easy way to ensure this is to use a tripod which has a spirit level built-in. However, do remember that if you're working with a hot shoe spirit level on terrain that's uneven the spirit level on your tripod may tell you the shot's wonky when actually it's not. 

 

5. Don't Make It Too Busy

 

Although you will want to portray a lot through your photos, try not to overcrowd the image. If you do, the eye will not know where to settle on the photo and ruin the feel of the image. Do a quick check of the foreground and background before you take your shot to check there's not unsightly elements and take the time to consider if your shot will work better with the background out of focus.

 

6. Fill The Frame Or Leave Some Space?

 

 

You should also consider how close you are to your subject/how much space you want in your shot. If it is too far away, the image can lose impact, however, if you're trying to create a sense of scale in your shot, moving a person further away, for example, moving a person further into an area of sand dunes, will make the landscape appear as if it stretches on for miles. If you do want to fill the frame, use the zoom on your camera or move your feet.

 

7. Have A Focal Point

 

Identify your main focal point so you can then decide if you're going to use secondary points of focus or just place your subject in the frame so all attention falls on them.

 

8. Look At The Lighting

 

The light's angle and how strong it is will, of course, change the look of your photograph but so will the type of light source you're using. For example, if the light is tungsten or fluorescent, your camera may have a specific white balance setting to make the scene look natural. If you're shooting in darker conditions and don't want to use flash, consider using a higher ISO instead.

9. Consider Creating A Path

 

Having a path within the photo for the eye to follow can help guide your viewer through your shot. The picture above is a good example as the metal railing guides the eye down the beach to the person in the distance. 

 

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Comfy integrates the HitPaw FotorPea API that allows for image enhancement for Comfy users. Users can now benefit from the technology that will help automate and enhance the quality of images. These tools will help restore, enhance, and denoise images, all operating directly inside Comfy.

This integration shows how photography is changing with the help of AI tools to add detail to older, lower-quality, and compressed images. Rather than replacing creative editing, these tools are focusing more on streamlining multiple edits and ensuring overall consistency and clarity. 

For photographers, content creators, and platforms that manage lots of visuals, processing large amounts of visuals with less post-production work can be really helpful.

 

What HitPaw FotorPea Brings to the Comfy Platform

 

HitPaw FotorPea focuses on enhancing photos without changing their overall natural look. Instead of using filters that change the photo more aggressively, the system leans on AI models that have been trained to understand the structures, textures, and minutiae of photos.

Due to Comfy integration, photo enhancement features can now be used within a single workflow. This also means no more exporting images or using other tools to improve the quality of images because improving images has been included in the workflow.

While this functionality aids individual creators, it is particularly useful for teams and services dealing with high volumes of images, especially when the prospect of manual editing is impractical.

 

AI Image Enhancement Integrated into the Core Workflow

 

 

With the integration of AI image enhancer, Comfy now has the ability to auto-enhance different types of images. It uses AI to analyze the images and adjust clarity, noise, and resolution while keeping the textures and features of the people in the images faces as natural as possible.

Most traditional upscaling tools enhance the whole image and result in a generalized view, often causing the person in the portrait to look artificial. HitPaw FotorPea, on the other hand, uses AI realism-based portrait enhancements, meaning they look natural.

 

Key image enhancement capabilities include:

• One-click enhancement for portraits and scenes
• Separate AI processing for faces and backgrounds
• 2x and 4x super-resolution options
• Noise reduction without heavy softening
• Batch processing for large image sets
• API access for automated workflows

The system's features are ideal for mobile phone photography, low-res web images, scanned images, older digital photos, and also for slight improvements to already high-quality images.

 

Model-Based Enhancement for Different Photographic Scenarios

 

The integration does not consist of simply applying a singular enhancement method across all images. Instead, it uses various AI models tailored for particular subjects as well as certain quality levels. This gives the end user more options to choose from when dealing with more challenging photographic materials.

 

Available image enhancement models include:

• Face Clear Model (2x / 4x): Upscales portraits and softens the skin to give a clearer picture and accentuates the surrounding details.
• Face Natural Model (2x / 4x): Maintains the skin texture and facial features to make them look more natural.
• General Enhance Model (2x / 4x): This model is used to enhance general and everyday images, like landscapes, architecture, animals, and many more.
• High Fidelity Model (2x / 4x): This tool is specifically designed for subtle enhancement of DSLR photos, posters, and AI images.
• Sharp Denoise & Detail Denoise Models (1x): Reduce noise in photos taken on mobile devices and cameras, while retaining the original flexible image size.
• Generative Portrait & Generative Enhance Models (1x–4x): Diffusion models that focus on rebuilding some of the details that may be missing because of heavy compression or destruction of the image.

This model selection structure enables photographers and content teams to select the specialized image enhancer AI technique that fits the source material the best instead of using a one-size-fits-all solution.

 

Built for Automation and Platform-Level Workflows

 

A key element in this integration is the API-based design. Rather than putting the tools just as creative editors, Comfy enables automated enhancement as part of broader content pipelines. This gives the value not just to individual photographers but to any platforms, publishers, and services that handle extensive image libraries. With the goal of quality improvement while maintaining smooth, automated workflows, Comfy integrates AI enhancement directly into the platforms.

 

Who Benefits Most from This Integration

 

The Comfy and HitPaw FotorPea integration streamlines work for various users, but some users enjoy better integration benefits, such as:

• Photographers wanting to recover detail of challenging light or old files
• Content creators seeking cleaned-up images without tedious edits
• Media platforms dealing with large quantities of user-generated or old images
• Creative teams desire consistent image quality across all their projects

In all these cases, the advantage lies in achieving improved image quality with minimal effort.

 

A Tool Designed for Modern Image Workflows

 

Today’s image workflows are speedy, multi-source, and often automated. Images come from phones, cameras, scans, and archives and have varying quality levels. Users do not need another complex editor; they need a reliable way to enhance the baseline quality.

HitPaw FotorPea seamlessly integrates with this environment because its AI models focus on realism, detail retention, and efficiency. The Comfy integration removes friction and allows image enhancement in the place where the work already exists.

 

Conclusion

 

The integration of HitPaw FotorPea's API with Comfy exemplifies the increased importance of automation in the contemporary photography world. Focusing on natural results, adaptable models, and the ability to handle larger projects shows how AI tools are becoming more flexible and are now more about improving technical quality than being used for creative purposes. HitPaw FotorPea is at the center of this integration. Its image enhancement models now work with Comfy to provide consistent and workflow-friendly visual improvement.

 

A humpback whale rising from the cold ocean is our latest 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) winner.

Captured by ColinEJ and titled ‘Humpback Whale Breaching,’ we love the excellent timing and energy shown in this action shot. The snowy mountains and clear sky in the background frame the scene, showing the whale’s size against the landscape. This wide view makes the photo clear and well-timed. What a brilliant photo!

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

Most of the time, particularly in architectural photography, we are told that converging verticals and lines are something which should be avoided. But there are occasions when they don't have to be avoided by architectural or any other type of photographer.

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1. Use Converging Verticles To Exaggerate Height

When shooting close to a building with a wide-angle lens, you can exaggerate the height of the structure with the help of converging verticals however, it can look like the building is about to fall over backwards so it isn't a style everyone appreciates. To exaggerate the sloping walls further, get lower to the ground with your wide-angle lens.
 

2. Use Converging Verticles To Focus Attention 

We've talked previously on how vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines can be used to add interest to shots and act as guides. If you take this further so you have multiple lines stretching towards the horizon, they can appear to be moving closer together, which, in turn, will help the viewer to focus on one specific area of the shot.
 

3. Use Converging Verticles To Guide The Eye

Where you set your camera up and how the lines move through your frame will change the feel of the shot. The most common way to use converging lines is to position your camera in the centre of the frame so you have symmetry as well as the converging guides working for you. But as the eye often looks at the bottom left of an image first before working across the shot to the top right corner, you can also position the lines so they flow from corner to corner. By having a line which follows this path, you will unknowingly guide the viewer through your shot. Try using multiple diagonals to guide the eye to one spot in the image by intersecting them where you want the attention to fall.

Do watch where the lines are going as if they lead out of the frame it can create a sense of wonder but equally, it could lead to frustration as your viewer doesn't know what's beyond the frame and as they've followed the direction of the line, they'll end up not looking at your shot. However, if you take the time to position yourself so the lines give the impression they meet/end where you want your main point of focus to be, you shouldn't have a problem.
 

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A field of Bog Cotton caught in a strong wind, with its white fluffy heads swept to one side against a dark, overcast sky, is a wonderful nature shot.

Shot from ground level through the stems and grasses, the movement captured in each head brings real energy and life to the image. The heavy clouds above add wonderful depth to the composition, and the bright white cotton heads stand out beautifully against the moody sky. Getting down low to capture this shot clearly came at a price, but the soggy knees were well worth it. Congratulations on winning POTW, YorkshireSam.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

Spring officially begins this month so we want to fuel you with spring ideas and suggestions so when it does arrive, you'll be ready to head out with your camera. So, here's a list of all the best photographic opportunities this spring you won't want to miss.

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1. Lambs

 

One of the most notable and iconic features of spring is the abundance of baby animals. The easiest of these to go out and photograph freely are lambs. They are spritely creatures, and so to capture them sharply, use a higher shutter speed as they are liable to move just as you have set up your shot. There is more information on lamb photography in our lamb photography tutorial.

  2. Flowers

 

At the beginning of spring, snowdrops and daffodils will begin to shoot and bloom, providing ample opportunity for some macro and flower cluster shots. Head out to your nearest wooded area to find some wild spring flowers as well as waiting for the flowers in your garden to show.

More tips on photographing spring flowers can be found here: Spring Flower Photography Tips

 

3. The Last Frosts

 

At this time of year, the weather is getting milder, but you'll still be able to capture some frost if you're up and about early enough. Frost looks great when it forms on newly sprouting plants, as the vibrant colour contrasts nicely with the white of the frost.  You can find out more in our frost photography tutorial.

  4. Fresh Vegetation

 

Spring is not just about close-up shots. Take advantage of the blooming colours and fresh greens to create wider landscape shots, or even panoramas, that look more vibrant and alive. ePHOTOzine has plenty of landscape tutorials over in our technique section. 

  5. Sunrise / Sunset

 

You can still capture the sunrise at a reasonable time now and the sun is still going down just after most finish work giving you the chance to capture a cracking sunset too. 

  6. Showers/ Shooting In The Rain

 

Showers are a key part of spring, and they shouldn't put you off getting out with your camera. Some great shots can be achieved in the rain, and more information on how to capture them can be found in our tutorial on shooting daffodils in the rain and in our tutorial on coping with bad weather. 

 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to CarltonR (Day 8 - Shots With Movement).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Abstract Photography

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Day 10

Action Photography

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Day 11

Minimalist Photography

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  Day 12

Fruit & Veg Shots

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Day 13

Creative Blur

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Day 14

Flash Photography

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to CathTay (Day 24 - 'Balance').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 22

Twilight Photography

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Day 23

Grey Weather Days

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Day 25

Creative Lighting

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  Day 26

Family Photos

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Day 27

Building Detail

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Day 28

Snowdrops

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

 

1. Something New

If you're usually someone who only shoots one style of photography, having a go at a new genre can not only be fun but educational. It can also fuel you with inspiration, giving you new ideas to have a go at. As you're photographing yourself there's no pressure to get it right first time either as there's no one else to please but yourself.

2. Something For A Rainy Day

Walking around in the rain, shooting landscapes isn't fun so instead of getting wet, set up your gear at home and have a go at shooting self-portraits. You never know, you may find you enjoy it enough to take your gear outside, once the rain has stopped, to shoot some self-portraiture outdoors.
 

3. In Your Own Time

As you're not working with anyone else, you can shoot your photos when and where you want. It also means you can play around with the set-up as much as you like without having to worry about your model getting bored. You don't have to worry about time ticking away either which is something you have to consider when working with a model as they could have another shoot to get to.

 

 

4. Experiment

As you don't have a model to direct you can experiment with different poses and expressions much more easily as you won't have to spend time trying to explain the idea you have in your head to someone else. Don't' forget you can experiment with props, too.

 

5. The Challenge

Working behind as well as in front of the camera comes with its own set of challenges, however learning how to overcome problems and perfecting set-ups to help improve your technique can be fun, plus you're learning and expanding your knowledge in the process. 

Some of the questions you may ask include the following: do you want to use a tripod? How are you going to fire the shutter if using a DSLR? Will you need a remote release or do you can have a camera which can be controlled remotely via a smartphone or tablet (although, if you're capturing your images with a smartphone, this won't be so much of an issue)? Are you going to shoot one shot at a time or make the most of a continuous shooting mode? 

Take a look at our technique section for answers to these questions and more. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

The national flower of Wales is the Daffodil and as it's St David's day today, where the flower is traditionally worn, we thought it was quite appropriate to kick-off March with a few tips on photographing this Welsh emblem. 

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1. Focus On One Flower 

Have a look at a clump of daffodils and single out the most interesting heads that can be photographed without too much clutter.

 

2. Plain Backgrounds 

In situations where there are no options to shoot the daffodil without a distracting background, place a piece of card behind the head to remove all the clutter. If you do have a clutter-free dark background in your garden, such as a conifer, you may need to underexpose by one stop using the camera's exposure compensation feature to ensure detail is picked up in the flower's petals. You could also use manual mode if your camera has that option.

 

3. Side-On Shots 

The most obvious way to shoot a single head is from overhead but if you position your camera so you can still see the front of the flower but you're positioned slightly to the side, almost as if you were shooting a portrait, you'll produce a more interesting result.

 

4. Blue Sky Backgrounds 

Try shooting upwards so you can position the head with blue sky behind it for dramatic contrast. Using a polariser will deepen the blue. Alternatively, as a member has previously suggested, use a mirror and photograph the reflection so you can include the sky without having to get low to the ground. 

 

 

5. Get Close-Up

Don't just shoot the whole head, go really close and offset the stamen, placing it in on the left or right third intersection of the photo for a more pleasing balance. Your camera's macro function will help you get closer to the flowerhead or fit a macro lens if your camera uses interchangeable lenses.

 

6. All The Flowers 

If you have a large patch in your garden that's a blanket of yellow get out your wide-angle lens which will still let you get in close but with the added bonus of excellent depth-of-field. The flowers will appear smaller but the convergence will make them look like they're reaching out towards the edge of the frame.

 

7. Remove Shadows 

If it's sunny, consider shading the flower with your hand to reduce the contrast. The overall tone will be more even and longer shadows which can appear on the flower's head will be removed.

 

 

8. Small Apertures 

Focus can be a little tricky so use the smallest aperture you can to stop blur creeping into your image.

 

9. Arty Blur 

Alternatively, use a wider aperture so the back petals fall gradually out of focus, focusing on the tip of the petal nearest to your lens. 

 

10. Giant Softbox

Don't see cloud cover as a bad thing as a light covering of cloud will act as a giant softbox. 

 

 

 

11. Wind Is Not Your Friend

As well as creating backgrounds, a card can be used to shield your subject from the wind. If you have one, you can use a plamp to steady a flower. 

 

12. Water Droplets 

Spray the petals with water so that droplets appear making the petals look fresh and glowing. It'll also add another level of interest to your shot. 

 

13. Use A Reflector

Take a reflector out with you, particularly on dull days, so you can bounce extra light into your shot without having to use your flash. You can make your own reflector from silver foil if you don't own one.

 

14. Cuttings Inside

Take a cutting and place it on a different background for a more graphic result. 

 

 

15. Shoot From Under The Flower Head

Capture your shots from under the flower head, turning it into a strong silhouetted shape against a bright sky.  If you don't want it to appear as a silhouette use exposure compensation and expose one stopover what your camera considers to be correct to give your shots a creative twist without removing detail. 

 

16. Backlit Fun With Old Flowers

Don't throw out old flowers once they wilt. Wait until the head has gone crisp and photograph that against the sun to create backlit effects.

 

17. Creative Effects 

Play around with your shots to achieve various creative effects. This can be done in-camera via Art Filters or during post-production. 

 

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- Partner Content - 

Lighten your load and go for a smaller format camera for travel. The Fujifilm X-T4 and OM System OM-5 Mark II are two very capable cameras and are available used for under £1000 from MPB.

 

Travel manifests itself in so many different forms, from a city break a few hours drive from home to safaris, adventure holidays and photo tours of exotic far flung lands. Such destination diversity means there’s no such thing as the perfect travel camera outfit because every trip and the photo opportunities they offer will be different. 

You have a good camera phone, but a decent camera gives a better, all-round user experience. So, our first stop is to consider compacts. If you want a truly pocketable, high-class machine, you could do worse than check out the APS-C format Ricoh GR series. The very latest model is the 25.7-megapixel GR IV which has an equivalent 28mm f/2.8 lens, five-axis image stabilisation and 5GB of internal storage. MPB has a stock of used models in excellent condition at £1039.

Skip back a generation to the Ricoh GR III and MPB has like new samples at £979. Its specs might be marginally less impressive than the GR IV, but it’s still a fine camera.

Slightly bigger and one for the shortlist is the Fujifilm X100V, another APS-C format camera. A like new model from MPB costs £1399 and for that you get 26 megapixels, 20fps burst rate shooting and a tilting monitor.

Travel light and invest in a quality compact camera such as the Ricoh GR IV (left) and Sony RX100 VII. These pocket-sized marvels are easy to use and capable of excellent images.

 

While fixed lens cameras are worth considering, you might prefer the flexibility of a zoom compact so check out models from Canon and Sony. MPB has the Canon PowerShot G9X II at £569. With 20.1 megapixels and a 3x optical 28-84mm equivalent zoom, this is a capable and pocket-sized camera. Add to your shortlist the Sony Cyber-shot RX100 VII, priced at £934 from MPB in like new condition and features include impressive AF skills and an equivalent 24-200mm zoom in full-frame.

Speaking of full frame, if you have the budget and want to make a statement, check out the classy Sony Cyber-shot DSC RX1R Mark II, available in excellent condition from MPB at £1709 but you can save money by opting for a good condition sample at £1439. With a fixed 35mm f/2. lens and 42.4 megapixels, this is a seriously good premier compact.

There’s no doubting the appeal of a good compact but for ultimate flexibility it doesn’t get any better than an interchangeable lens camera. 

DSLR type models remain popular and with the domination of mirrorless cameras, there’s great value to be had in this sector. That said, we’ll follow the market and look at mirrorless options allowing £1000 for the camera body and the same for a lens or two. 

 

A superzoom is ideal for walkaround photography and having less kit makes life easier on busy public transport too. Exposure was 1/125s at f/8 and ISO 400. Image Credit: Will Cheung.

 

For travel, looking at portable options makes sense and there are three formats to consider, Micro Four Thirds, APS-C and full-frame, so let’s explore the possibilities of picking a model to represent each format.

In Micro Four Thirds, we’ve gone for the OM-5 Mark II which sells for £979 body only from MPB in like new condition. It’s a very likeable camera rich in features including 30fps ProCapture, 7.5 stops of image stabilisation and 20 megapixels. Plus, there’s focus stacking, a Live ND filter and high-res shot mode, and all this in a petite weather-sealed body.

Next, we have the APS-C format and we have gone for the Fujifilm X-T4 at £969 from MPB in like new condition. This model boasts the 4th generation CMOS 4 X-Trans sensor with 26.1 megapixels, very good high ISO performance and the brand’s popular Film Simulation settings. 

 

If shooting nature is part of your travel trip, a macro lens or close focusing zoom needs to be part of your outfit but that means extra weight and space. Shot with a 100-500mm lens with an exposure of 1/500s at f/9 and ISO 400. Image Credit: Will Cheung.

 

For our sub-£1000 full-frame body, we chose the Canon EOS R6 which is priced at £999 from MPB. It’s a 20.1-megapixel camera with 8 stops of image stabilisation and Canon’s renowned Dual Pixel CMOS AF II system that delivers fast, pinpoint autofocusing.

Lens choice will be influenced by your travel plans. If nature is on the agenda, a long telephoto and possibly a macro lens will be on the shopping list. However, if you have a more general itinerary, keeping your lens outfit to manageable proportions makes perfect sense.

So, on one hand, you could go for three zooms, covering from ultra wide-angle to telephoto. In full-frame, this could mean a 14-35mm, 24-120mm and a 70-200mm, but the downsides are cost, a heavier bag and the need to switch lenses.

Squeezing in loads of focal lengths into a single lens is a great idea and in practice you get a decent level of optical performance. Shown here are the 24-240mm full-frame superzooms from Canon (left) and Sony.

 

Opting for a superzoom removes the jeopardy of lens swapping, saves time and is a more portable option. In the past, superzooms haven’t always had the best reputation and that’s simply because cramming so many focal lengths into a single entity means optical performance can be compromised. However, while superzooms still can’t match less wide-ranging zooms, the latest models are decent performers.

All three of our chosen bodies have the option of a superzoom. For the OM5 Mark II, the M.Zuiko Digital 14-150mm f/4-5.6 II is £303 from MPB so it comes well within our budget. In 35mm terms, this lens equates to 28-300mm so there’s plenty of range available. With some unused budget the option of a fast wide-angle prime appeals and the M.Zuiko Digital ED 12mm f/2 at £274 from MPB is worth considering.

 

Superzooms give plenty of shooting flexibility without the inconvenience of swapping lenses. This was taken at the long end of a 24-240mm lens. Exposure was 1/60s at f/6.3 and ISO 400. Image Credit: Will Cheung.

 

In Fujifilm’s extensive range of X-lenses, the superzoom offering is the XF 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR which is 27-206mm equivalent in full-frame and is £444 from MPB. If you want more pull, the Sigma 16-300mm f/3.5-6.7 DC OS gives a full-frame equivalent of 24-450mm. MPB did not have stock at the time of writing, but what you can do is create an alert on the MPB website and you will be notified as soon as stock is available.

Finally, let’s look at a superzoom for the Canon EOS R6. Full-frame AF lenses for the EOS RF are not available from independent brands so we have to stick with Canon but there is a good option here, the RF 24-240mm f/4-6.3 IS USM at £784 from MPB. It’s a sizable lens but is still more portable then two or three zooms making up the same range.

 

  News from MPB

Recent MPB news includes its announcement of its results for the financial year ending 31 March 2025. The headlines are positive with a 19% increase in Group Net Revenue with international markets up by 29%. 

To put some numbers on MPB’s 2025 performance, the business recirculated more than 564,000 items in used kit and hit one million unique customers globally which is double that of three years ago. Learn more about MPB’s results by clicking here.

MPB also brought news of the state of the camera market. Basically, the imaging kit market is growing, with camera shipments including DSLRs and mirrorless up by 6.6% year-on-year and lens volume up by about 3%. 

There’s really positive news in the compact camera market in 2025. About 26% of all new cameras shipped were compacts which represents a 49% year-on-year growth in terms of market value. Read more about this story here.

  MPB Explained

You need kit to take photographs and produce videos, and taking the used route is a cost-effective way of making the most of your budget and keeping up with the latest developments in imaging technology.

MPB is one of the biggest used retailers with bases in the UK, Germany and the USA.

Trading with MPB the process is fair, safe, painless and incredibly easy.

Whether you have kit to sell, want to make a purchase or part exchange, start by going to the MPB website which is intuitive and straightforward to use.

If you have kit to trade, just start typing the name in and a list of suggestions from MPB’s huge database will appear. If a name on that list matches your product click on it and add its condition; if not, continue typing in the whole name and condition.

It’s worth bearing in mind that MPB’s database covers much more than cameras and lenses so if you have, for example, a photo backpack, tripod or filters to sell these can be shown as you type in their name too.

With all your kit listed, add contact details and a quote will appear in your inbox soon afterwards, although manually entered items will take one working day.

If you are happy with the quote, accept it and follow the instructions to get the kit ready for courier collection on a day to suit you. For higher-value deals, an MPB account manager will also be in touch, so you have a personal point of contact if you have any queries.

Once received by MPB, you will get a notification and after checking by its product specialists you will receive a final quote. This can vary from the original quote if there is a missing item —like a battery not being supplied—or your assessed condition differs from the actual condition.

A quote can go down, but it can also increase if the kit’s condition is better than your assessment.

The whole process doesn’t take long and MPB are in touch by e-mail at every step so you’re never in the dark, and only when you are totally happy with the deal, pass on your payment details or pay the balance in the case of part-exchange. Either way, the money or your new kit will be with you soon after.

Get A Quote From MPB Today

 

About MPB

• MPB is the largest global platform to buy, sell and trade used photo and video kit.
• MPB is the simple, safe and circular way to trade, upgrade and get paid.
• MPB is not a marketplace, instead buying directly from visual storytellers and evaluating all items before reselling MPB-approved kit.
• MPB's dynamic pricing engine provides the right price upfront for all items.
• Circularity is at the centre of MPB, promoting sustainability, diversity and inclusion in everything they do.
• MPB prioritises inclusive recruitment and supports employees with extensive training and development. They promote inclusive visual storytelling and an inclusive circular economy.
• MPB's business model is 100% circular. All packaging is 100% plastic-free. Their cloud-based platform uses 100% renewable electricity.
• MPB recirculates more than 570,000 products annually
• MPB provides first-class customer service. Customers can receive support through their Help Centre or by speaking directly with a kit expert.
• MPB's product specialists are trusted by thousands of visual storytellers in the UK.
• MPB is rated ‘Excellent’ on Trustpilot with over 37,000 reviews.

Visit The MPB Website

 

What Is Slow Sync Flash?

Slow sync flash combines a burst of flash with a slow shutter speed. On compact cameras, slow sync flash is often known as night mode and you can't control the speed of the shutter or the strength of the flash but you can with a DSLR. If you're working with a DSLR you'll probably find you have rear curtain sync and front curtain sync options among the various flash modes available, although some camera models don't have this option so do check your manual. 

 

Why Do I Need It?

Slow Sync Flash can be used to capture subjects in low light as well as action shots. 

 

Do I Need A Tripod?

When working with slow shutter speeds a tripod is recommended, however, rear or front curtain sync can create some interesting backgrounds when you work hand-held, particularly when taking your photos in an area with various light sources as the flash will freeze your subject in place while the long exposure will blur the lights into an interesting mix of colour.

  What's The Difference Between Rear And Front?

Rear-curtain sync tells your camera to fire the flash just before the photograph is finished exposing. As you pan, this creates a long trail but a nice, crisp shot of your subject. Front curtain fires the flash at the beginning of the exposure then the shutter remains open, continuing to record the ambient light. As a result, your images will appear differently depending on which method you choose.
 

How Does It Help With Action Shots?

 

Your camera's flash can provide a burst of light in a split second that will highlight your subject. However, if you're trying to capture a moving subject, the flash will freeze them in their tracks and all sense of movement will be lost. However, by combining a slow shutter speed with a pop of flash, you can create a sense of action through blur but still have your subject sharp too.

It's ideal for capturing action shots of bikes or cars moving, although it can be used to capture creative shots of any scene which has a moving subject in the foreground. Try using it next time you're photographing your child playing on a swing, for example. If you find there's blur in front of your subject rather than behind, you need to select rear curtain sync so that the ambient blur exposure is captured before the flash fires. This results in a more natural-looking shot where the blurred streak follows your subject who will be sharp thanks to the flash firing just before the exposure ends. 

You need to give your subject time to move through the frame to give the slower shutter speed time to blur their movement before the pop of flash at the end of the exposure will leave them sharp. It's also worth perfecting your panning technique before you start experimenting with this technique so your pan stays smooth and straight. You also need to ensure your panning speed is correct. For example, shoot too slow and you'll see the trail but it'll merge/blur into the background. Too fast and everything freezes.
 

How Can It Help In Low Light?

 

When photographing people in low light you can try and use flash or you can turn your flash off and use slower shutter speeds to capture enough light to create a well-exposed image.

If you're using your camera's built-in flash your subject can often take on the 'rabbit in the headlights' look thanks to the bright flash illuminating them but leaving the background dark. If you go for the slow shutter speed option you're fine if you're working with a street performer whose occupation is to be a human statue but for anyone else who tends to move around a lot, you'll just end up with motion blur spoiling your shot.

As a result, you're better off using slow sync flash so you get a relatively sharp shot of your subject but also capture enough light throughout the image to create a shot that's better exposed throughout. In other words, the camera records the background and then illuminates the subject with flash to balance the exposure between the two areas. This makes it a good mode to use when shooting portraits at night although a tripod may be necessary to keep the background sharp.
 

What Shutter Speeds Are Needed?

This will change depending on the amount of blur you want to capture in your shot. It's also worth noting that the speed your subject is moving at and how intense the light around them is can affect the final look if the image so it's worth experimenting. As you're not controlling when the flash will fire you may need to take a few shots to get to grasps with your timing too. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

    1. Lenses For Flower Photography When it comes to kit, a macro lens or telephoto zoom lens with an extension tube won't be out of place and as you'll most likely be working close to the ground try to preview your shots with the help of LiveView if you find that getting your eye close to the viewfinder is difficult. A tripod is always useful when shooting macro work and a waterproof sheet, mat or gardener's kneeling pad will make the experience of working on the damp ground slightly more comfortable.  [HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]  2. Get Down Low 

Ideally, you need to be working at the same height as the snowdrops so be prepared for sitting or kneeling on the damp ground. To get you even closer to the flower heads you'll need to splay the legs on your tripod and, if you can, move the centre column from vertical to horizontal as this will get you closer to the ground. As well as making use of LiveView, switch on the camera's self-timer or use your cable /remote release to help keep your shots shake-free.
 

3. Shot Type One: Plenty Of Depth-Of-Field

Once you're set-up, you'll find you need a small f/stop to get good depth-of-field, which means you need a long exposure and when you look through the viewfinder or use your LiveView, you'll notice how the smallest of breezes will blow the flower which when mixed with slower shutter speeds, will create blur. Try using a simple piece of wire to keep the flower still or you could just wait patiently for the wind to settle down.
 

4. Shot Type Two: Bokeh Backgrounds 

If you find a particularly good specimen that doesn't have anything distracting in the background or foreground, throw the background out of focus, keeping the flower sharp. Take this one step further and completely cut out the steam, leaving the viewer's focus completely on the head of the flower. If the background looks a little too empty try positioning yourself so another Snowdrop sits in the background which you can blur out of focus. For group shots, try to pick out two or three for the centre of your image then create an out of focus frame with the surrounding snowdrops.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Every photographer is taught that sharpness is important and we won't argue that it's not, however learning how to control depth of field so you can make the most of out of focus areas of a photo will give you a portfolio that's full of much more interesting and creative shots.

We'll begin by covering the basics of this technique before moving on to shooting suggestions. If you want to take a more in-depth look at this technique, there are several tutorials on ePHOTOzine that cover this subject.

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1. The Basics

 

Switch to manual or Aperture Priority as you need to be able to control your aperture. Larger apertures (smaller f numbers) give you a shallower depth of field and help create the blurry, out of focus backgrounds we are after.

Although the main way to control depth of field is with the aperture the positioning of yourself and your subject can also enhance the blur. You want to, ideally, close the distance between the camera and subject but have as much distance as possible between your subject and the background.

Use longer focal lengths rather than wide-angles and use a tripod where possible as the smallest of movements can change the focus and potentially spoil your shot. Using manual focus can help although switching to single-point mode when using autofocus should be fine for most subjects.

If your camera has it, use the depth-of-field preview button as it's a really useful tool to allow you to visualise the amount of sharp focus in a scene.

 

2. Shoot Wider Views

 

When you think of landscapes, using a shallow depth of field isn't probably something that fist springs to mind. The traditional landscape has front-to-back sharpness, however, having something in your foreground that's perfectly sharp while the scene in the background is thrown out of focus gives the more common landscape shot a creative twist.

 

3. Make The Mundane Interesting

 

With a shallow depth of field, a simple blade of grass can look amazing! A blade of grass? We hear you cry. Yes, if you use a shallow enough depth-of-field a blade of grass can look pin-sharp and picture-perfect against a very blurry background.

You need to use a wide f stop to get the right effect. The aim is to get as much of the subject in focus as possible without losing the nice blurry feel but don't over blur the shot as this will distract from the subject. Try f/5.6 or f/8 and use the camera's depth-of-field preview button to check the aperture's effect on the background. It works great on blades of grass, insects and small flowers. During the summer, if you live near a rapeseed field try isolating a specific flower or part of the field out to draw attention to it. You could try blurring part of the foreground as well as the background to create a frame for the subject

 

4. Go Long

 

The Bokeh effect of shooting on a long lens with a wide aperture will turn background lights on city streets into circles of glowing colour, making them a perfect background for portraits. You'll need to stand a few feet away from your subject and do check your white balance to help ensure the lights in the background are glowing the colour they're meant to be.
 

5. Change The Shape

 

You don't just have to settle for circular out of focus highlights as you can use black card and a pair of scissors to change the shapes that appear. You need to decide on a shape, cut it out of the card then fast the card around your lens like you would a lens hood. Try to not make your shapes too small or complicated as they won't stand out very well in your final shot but ensure they are not bigger than your aperture either.

  6. Landmarks

The problem with landmarks is they are popular photographic subjects but by introducing blur, you can create a shot that not many other people will have taken. Make your chosen landmark completely blur out of focus and find some foreground detail that will stay in-focus and provide enough information to explain to the viewer what the background object is. 

 

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[SECTION]INTRODUCTION[/SECTION]

 

 

Quick Verdict

Compact, light, but fast and tough, the OM-1 Mark II is an excellent all-rounder. Given its tough exterior, weather resistance and svelte form factor, it could be the ideal outdoors camera, from wildlife to landscape to hiking and beyond.

 

The Olympus OM-1, the last camera to bear that iconic name, has now morphed into the OM System OM-1 Mark II. The external differences are muted and subtle, just a small II badge discreetly placed on the front panel. Incremental upgrading may well be the order of the day, but the new camera, like its first incarnation, is small, well-made, and absolutely made for action and the Great Outdoors. To run it through its paces, we have a small selection of OM lenses to choose from, and for this review, that is mainly the 12-45mm f/4 PRO and the 100-400mm f/5-6.3. Let's see how we get on, out in the field for some real-life photography and in the studio for the technical tests.

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Features

The Magnesium alloy body weighs in at just 511g. Dimensions are a modest 134.8mm x 91.6mm x 72.7mm. The body is rated as IP53 and described as splashproof, freezeproof and dustproof. Operating range is -10C to 40C, so most circumstances are well covered, the low temperature performance being better than many much more expensive cameras.

The impressive qualities of the 5.76M dot EVF will be covered later, but equally impressive is the crisp, sharp 3” monitor, despite it having just 1.62M dots.

 

 

There are practical features that impact the photographic experience. The superb Image Stabilisation, either on its own or as part of Sync IS with the lens, offers up to 8.5 stops advantage. This means some very long lenses can be viewed through the viewfinder and they are rock steady. This does not mean we don't need some higher shutter speeds for some subjects, as rapidly moving subjects still need to be stopped. Wildlife and sports are the most obvious examples.

When tripod-mounted precision is required, maybe because the framing needs to be kept exactly the same for multiple shots, then we have a sturdy-looking tripod mount. All sorts of electronic wizardry lie within the magnesium alloy body. Focus stacking, HDR, 50MP (handheld) or 80MP (tripod mounted) high resolution modes, and a multitude of interesting picture controls and art filters that offer endless creative possibilities. Many photographers enjoy playing with all sorts of effects using their smartphones and they might well be excited by the options available within the OM-1 Mark II.

The sensor is a 4/3” stacked BSI Live MOS measuring 17.3mm x 13.0mm. As we will see later, the low noise performance of this sensor along with its Trupic X processor, is quite remarkable. At 20.4MP, the pixel count may not seem very high, but many very expensive professional cameras have lasted very well using 20MP sensors and here the results are lovely, sharp and well-detailed images that look superb. If truly huge enlargements should ever be needed, then the high resolution modes can produce 50MP or 80MP files.

 

 

The small format has advantages and disadvantages. The advantage lies in the 2x crop factor, meaning very long lenses can be compact and handheld, the excellent SyncIS also helping with this. So, a 100mm lens will give the same field of view as a 200mm lens on a 35mm-format full frame camera. Any given aperture will also result in greater depth of field, usually also an advantage. This same point is also the potential disadvantage, as those photographers wanting less DOF will find this more difficult to achieve unless using very fast, perhaps f/1.4, lenses.

The incredible array of subjects recognised by the AF subject recognition system needs mentioning. This locks on and stays locked on an impressive amount of the time. Hugely valuable for wildlife shooting, but even closer up keeping the eyes sharp in a portrait shoot is also made delightfully easy.

Here is a summary of the main features of the OM-1 Mark II:

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Key Features

• MFT Format 
• IS (inbuilt) up to 8.5 stops
• Sync IS up to 8.5 stops
• 20.4MP Stacked BSI Live MOS Quad Pixel sensor, 17.3 x 13.0mm
• Truepic X Processor
• Mechanical shutter 60s – 1/8000s
• Shutter rated 400,000 shots
• Electronic shutter 60s – 1/32,000s
• AF range -8EV to +19EV
• AF Cross Type phase detection 1053 points
• AF contrast detection 1053 points
• Subject detection: Aircraft, Birds, Bullet trains, Cats, Dogs, Formula cars, Helicopters, Humans, Motorcycles, Rally cars, Standard trains, Steam Locomotives.
• Blackout-free EVF
• Pro Capture
• Metering range -2EV to +20EV
• ISO range 80-102,400
• In-camera focus stacking
• In-camera HDR
• OLED EVF 5.76M dots, 1.48x – 1.65x, 100% FOV
• 3” Vari-angle touch-sensitive LCD monitor 1.62M dots, swivel type
• Magnesium alloy body
• Video 4K 60p, C4K, FHD, High Speed Movie FHD
• Tripod Hi Res Shot JPEG 80MP
• Hand Held High Res Shot 50MP
• Operation -10C to +40C
• WiFi
• Bluetooth
• HDMI
• Moisture and dust resistance to IP53 standard
• 511g with battery and card
• 134.8mm x 91.6mm x 72.7mm
• Battery BLX-1, 500 shots
• 2 SD card slots
• Extensive digital filters
• OI Share App

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Handling

One of the most useful features that really enhances handling is the superb 5.76M dot EVF. Especially for those used to viewing via high-quality pentaprism finders, here we have a really excellent electronic alternative. It still uses battery power to look through the camera, but is probably the best EVF currently available, offering a sharp, accurate and relaxing view of the world beyond.

MTF format is smaller than APS-C, and this can carry forward into smaller cameras and lenses, a huge advantage for those preferring to travel light. This can free the joy of photography, without being weighed down and burdened by onerously heavy or bulky kit. Combine the svelte form factor of the OM-1 Mark II with its rugged IP53 sealed construction, and we have a winner for travel in even the most inhospitable conditions. 

The MFT format also has a very useful 2x crop factor. Useful, that is, for the pulling power that can tackle wildlife and sports subjects at range, with lenses that can still be handheld. It is remarkable to use a 400mm lens on the OM-1 Mark II and see the 800mm-equivalent image lock in, rock steady in the viewfinder. Yes, we have more depth of field as well, and this too can be an advantage for many types of photography. Those wanting less DOF closer up may find they need very fast OM lenses, or alternatively might fare better with larger formats where DOF is reduced.

Despite the small dimensions of the camera body, the buttons provided do not tend to be placed where they could be accidentally pressed. This is the bane of some designs, but OM System has side-stepped this by careful design and high-quality buttons and dials that need just the right amount of pressure to activate.

The actual grip design is also well thought out, and the camera can be gripped securely without the strap. This does make carrying tidier, and straps can get caught on things, so this reviewer ditches straps. This also makes using tripods and shooting product shots much easier.

There is quite an armamentarium of features within the OM-1 Mark II and these could take a while to fully explore, but spending some time doing so will reap rewards. As well as operating the camera through its own controls, there is also the OI Share App.

The OI Share App works really well, and there is no difficulty in registering a camera virtually instantly. Connection is also very reliable, with none of the failed attempts that can plague such systems. There are circumstances where operating the camera remotely can be advantageous, so it is good to see a straightforward App that operates well and does exactly what it needs to without being overly complex. Up to 10 cameras can be registered to the App, but obviously, only one can be used at a time.

 

[SECTION]PERFORMANCE[/SECTION]

OM System OM-1 Mark II Performance

The performance section is where we look at the image quality performance of the camera. Additional sample photos and product shots are available in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own review, photos and product ratings.
 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Lens Performance – The M. Zuiko 12-45mm f/4 PRO has been previously reviewed, along with the OM-5 in February 2023. It is a very capable and consistent performer, an excellent introduction to the OM System lenses. It delivers bright, sharp images, resists flare well, has low CA throughout the range and attractive bokeh. Very severe lighting conditions can result in some flare artefacts, but these tend to be rather pleasant in themselves and many photographers are happy to utilise such effects in their photography. In general, current OM System lenses are really looking great, and at very attractive prices. Compact, light and with high performance, they are beautiful optics to use.

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II ISO test images Previous Next

 

ISO Performance – In theory, we might expect that the smaller MFT format would find it difficult to deal with noise levels.  In practice, the OM System cameras compete very favourably with APS-C and even full frame alternatives. This OM-1 Mark II is even stronger than the first version. From ISO 80 right through to ISO 3200, there is virtually no noise evident. ISO 6400 sees some noise creeping in, but the integrity of the test target boxes is maintained. At ISO 12800 noise is more obvious, but it is at ISO 25600 that things start to fall apart and the noise goes up and the definition dramatically falls away. ISO 51200 sees masses of noise, and also falling off of detail and contrast. ISO 102400 is beyond all hope and would be pushing it even for emergency use.

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II White-balance test images Previous Next

 

White Balance – The camera delivers a strong set of white balance presets, from the excellent AWB through Sunny 5300K, Shadow 7500K, Cloudy 6000K, Incandescent 3000K, Fluorescent 4000K, Underwater, Flash 5500K, various user settings and a custom K setting. Actually quoting colour temperatures is a nice touch.

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Digital filters Previous Next

 

Digital Filters – A cornucopia of dazzling digital filters is in the picture control section of the OM-1 Mark II. Some might seem a bit mysterious, but somebody, somewhere, might find just the effect that suits their style, ready-made. Further tweaks can be made, so from simple filters for black and white renditions to cross-processing, pretty much everything is here. Sample shots have been made of as many of these effects as possible, although it should be remembered that these are just the starting point and they can be adjusted further to taste.

 

Video –  The basic video specs are as follows:

• Video recording: C4K 60p, 4K 60p, High Speed Movie FHD 240fps
• Video Quality: 4K, C4K, FHD, High Speed Movie FHD
• Codec: H.264, H.265

Although this is not a video review, some impromptu footage was shot to see how the camera handles. Quality is excellent, the basic default setup gives very smooth, judder-free results and would be very acceptable on a widescreen TV. The image is sharp, the colour is good and the picture is very stable. The positioning of the start/stop button is also good, avoiding jerky starts or ends to the video.

 

[SECTION]VERDICT[/SECTION]

 

 

Value For Money

The OM System overall is priced as follows:

• [AMUK]OM-1 II|OM-1+II[/AMUK] body only, £2049
• OM-1 II with 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO II, £2599
• [AMUK]OM-3|OM-3[/AMUK] body only, £1699
• OM-3 with 12-45mm f/4 PRO, £1999
• [AMUK]OM-3 ASTRO|OM-3+ASTRO[/AMUK] body only, £1899
• [AMUK]OM-5 II|OM-5+II[/AMUK] body only, £1099
• OM-5 II with 12-45mm f/4 PRO, £1499

 

Some body only has alternatives from other marques:

• [AMUK]Canon R7|Canon+R7[/AMUK], £1349
• [AMUK]Canon F10|Canon+F10[/AMUK], £1249
• [AMUK]Fujifilm X-S20|Fujifilm+X-S20[/AMUK], £1149
• [AMUK]Fujifilm X-T5|Fujifilm+X-T5[/AMUK], £1549
• [AMUK]Fujifilm X-H2|Fujifilm+X-H2[/AMUK], £1849
• [AMUK]Fujifilm X-H2S|Fujifilm+X-H2S[/AMUK], £2299
• [AMUK]Fujifilm X-H2 IR|Fujifilm+X-H2+IR[/AMUK], £2199
• [AMUK]Nikon Zfc|Nikon+Zfc[/AMUK], £849
• [AMUK]Nikon Z50 II|Nikon+Z50+II[/AMUK], £849
• [AMUK]Panasonic Lumix G9 II|Panasonic+Lumix+G9+II[/AMUK], £1689
• [AMUK]Sony A6700|Sony+A6700[/AMUK], £1449

Considering its specification and quality, the OM-1 Mark II pitches at a very reasonable point.

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Verdict

There is still a strong case for handling a camera before buying it, and the OM-1 Mark II is one of those that instantly fits the hands and instantly impresses. The impact of this is best experienced by actually holding and using a fine piece of kit. With impeccable handling, a vast array of technology built in and superb results, there is so much to like about the camera and really nothing significant to mark as a drawback.

The OM-1 Mark II is a great camera, and there is no hesitation in awarding it the kudos of Editor's Choice.

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Pros

• IP53 weather sealing
• IS and SyncIS 8.5 stops advantage
• Rugged construction
• Compact and light
• Excellent ergonomic design
• Excellent subject recognition
• Extensive menu of digital filters
• Wide and excellent range of Zuiko lenses
• Fair price

 

OM System OM-1 Mark II Cons

• None

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=5|R_handling=5|R_performance=5|R_value=4.5|R_overall=5|A_level=5|A_text=Editor's Choice – Quality in fine design, construction and performance, a superb camera at a very fair price.|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

 

View the OM System OM-1 Mark II camera specs in the equipment database.

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