DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

When capturing waterfalls you can make water appear as if it's frozen in time so every splash and droplet is captured in the frame or you can go to the opposite end of the scale and smooth the flow of water out into almost a dry-ice, cloud-like texture. At this time of year, there's the added option of capturing frozen shapes that water's created when it's splashed up over rocks and grass found at the edges of the falls, too

So, which effect should you go for and what shutter speed will you need to create it? Well, generally speaking, fast shutter speeds freeze motion while slower shutter speeds exaggerate and blur it. Which you want to use will depend on the type of image you are trying to create and even though using slower shutter speeds is popular with many photographers, it doesn't mean you have to use them.

Here, we'll look at both forms of photography and offer tips on using each technique to create a specific style of shot.

For those who haven't used Shutter Priority Mode before you can usually switch to it by turning your mode dial to the 'S' setting. How you alter the shutter speed can change from camera-to-camera so it's best to look in your camera's manual before heading out with all of your gear. Switching to shutter-priority will allow you to control the length of the time the shutter is open for.

 

1. Freezing Motion

If you're capturing a fall where the flow of water is quite rapid and you don't want to lose the sense of motion, try using fast shutter speeds. If you're working in aperture priority you can set a wide aperture (f/2.8 - 4) to get the quicker shutter speeds you need. You can also bump up your ISO to gain a faster shutter speed.

To freeze movement you have to set a fast enough shutter speed to prevent the subject’s movement blurring as it moves across the sensor. What shutter speed you need will change depending on how fast the water is moving so experimentation is key. However, if you find the results aren't all that spectacular you'll probably prefer to use the popular slow shutter speed technique.

 

2. Slowing Motion

 

Blurred water cascades falling over rocks are a popular photographic subject. Why? Well, love it or loathe it, it can look great in the right situation and even small cascades can look like raging torrents when captured this way.

This technique will work particularly well when really cold temperatures arrive as water that hits grasses and rocks found at the side of moving water will freeze and as John Gravett has said in a previous article: "a long shutter speed will contrast the moving water with the icy margins, and a small aperture will give you a wide depth of field, ensuring front to back sharpness."
 

Time Of Day/Year

Remember though, if it's cold enough for ice, you'll need good winter clothing on to keep you warm and do be extra careful when working at the sides of rivers and waterfalls when icy patches can form on the sides you'll be standing on.

You will find that early morning or late afternoon on an overcast day is the perfect time to photograph waterfalls using this particular technique. Ice and frost are more likely to still be around during the earlier part of the day, too. If you try and shoot later in the day, particularly during sunny, summer months, the bright sun stops you using slow shutter speeds and the contrast can be horrendous. Although a polariser, as well as a neutral density filter, are handy for cutting down the amount of light reaching the camera sensor.

 

 

Experimentation Is Key 

As mentioned above, experimentation is key when it comes to shutter speeds as the speed of the water, its volume, where you are stood and how much blur you want to create will all play a part in altering your shutter speed. However, 1/8sec to 1/15sec should be a good starting point (you should be able to create motion without losing too much texture) but if this doesn't work, change the shutter speed and take the shot again. For really milky shots, speeds as long as ten seconds could be needed.

Take care when metering water as the large areas of light tones can fool the meter into underexposing, making the picture look dark. You'll probably find that it's worth bracketing your shot, perhaps shooting at plus and minus one stop.

 

Filters & Tripods

If areas of the water begin to overexpose (appear too bright) you'll need to fit an ND filter to use the slower speeds you want without 'blown out' areas spoiling your shot. You need to use a tripod, self-timer or a remote cable release as shots taken with longer shutter speeds are more prone to shake. Using the camera's mirror lock-up can also help with this.

 

 

3. Ice And Frozen Falls

Unless we have a week or more of very cold weather it's unlikely an entire lake will freeze. However, do look out for icicles that have formed on or overhanging grasses and ledges. If you can, position yourself so they are set against a dark background so the icicles stand out. As mentioned above, create contrast with slow shutter speeds and set flowing, smooth water against frozen edges. Also, as John Gravett suggests, 'lookout for crystal-like caps over rocks, icy stalagmites on grass, or chandelier-like structures on large waterfalls'.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to mikeuk (Day 7 - Winter Silhouettes)

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

'New'

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Day 2

Close-Up Outdoor

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Day 3

'Learn'

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  Day 4

Sport

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Day 5

Black & White Landscape

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Day 6

Sunrise Landscapes

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Day 8

Winter Wildlife

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Day 9

Long Shutter Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Debmercury (Day 20 - Patterns).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 18

'Three'

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Day 19

Statue

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Day 21

Journey

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  Day 22

Night

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Day 23

Still Life

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Day 24

Rain

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

A selection of our 'POTW' winners from 2025.

 

Our generous 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) supporter, Samsung, has kindly offered to award one of our 2025 POTW winners a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield as the prize for the accolade of Photo of the Year 2025 Award.

Which photo deserves the bonus prize and the 'Photo of the Year' title? We need your help to decide!

Until the end of January 2026, you can vote by hitting the 'like' button on your favorite 2025 POTW images in our Photo of the Year 2025 forum.

Start selecting your favourites using the 'like' button now!

Once the closing date is reached, the ePHOTOzine team will count up the 'likes,' and our 'Photo of the Year' winner will be announced.

We look forward to seeing how you all vote!

When creatively playing with focus, having out of focus areas that are the main focal point rather than having a sharp, in focus point of interest can add more intrigue and interest to a shot. You can also use out of focus foregrounds as frames, to guide the eye through the shot or throw sharpness entirely out of the window and create something much more abstract with your out of focus shots. But to do this you first have to know how you can control it then execute it in a way that doesn't make it look like something you did by mistake. 
 

How Do I Control What's In Focus? The easiest way is with aperture priority as you can change the size of the aperture to bring more or less into focus. If your camera struggles to focus where you want it to in auto-focus, use focus lock to get the image you want rather than taking a photo the camera thinks is right.

The elements can help you make more creative shots too as fog / mist can help soften scenes as long range images gradually lose contrast and far objects will disappear or appear as silhouettes. You can also try shooting through things. With a wide enough aperture and a close shooting distance they will add an extra level of out of focus interest to your shot.
  Portraits We are always told that sharp portraits with backgrounds thrown out of focus are what work but there are times when a little blur can go a long way. It can work well when you're trying to create the feel of a candid, reportage style shot rather than something that's posed and set up. It can also add a little romanticism and mystery to a shot. Indoors, making your subject a little less sharp can work in the studio too as Rossella Vanon explains: "I personally love shooting portraits by using a very big aperture and blurring the whole background and part of the subject too. It gives a very simple, creative twist to the picture and I would definitely recommend it."
  Same Shot Different Message A simple change in focus will not only change the main focal point of your shot but can change the message too. The two shots here are of the same two people but the first you're left wondering what the women in the foreground is looking at and thinking while the second shot is all about the subject in the background of the shot. 




Out On The Town Blurry backgrounds shouldn't be forgotten altogether but instead of throwing something that's usually seen as secondary out of focus, step further back from what you're photographing and throw the, what others would consider to be the main point of interest, out of focus. This can work well with landmarks, particularly in cities where you can use tourists taking photos of the landmark or even artists as your main point of focus. Do remember you need the right angle and interesting, contrasting elements for this to work successfully, though.

On rainy days, shoot through windows that have water running down them, blurring what's on the outside or use the ripples of a puddle to shoot a more abstract shot of city lights at night.
  Foreground Frames Frames are a great tool for guiding the eye to what's important in the shot but they don't always have to be obvious, frame – like objects such as windows for the shot to work. Some out of focus foreground detail such as foliage, grass, branches or even fabrics and plastic will add another level of interest as well as act as a guide for the eye to your subject. Make sure you're close to your foreground detail and use a wide enough aperture to throw it out of focus otherwise it won't blur and will pull attention away from your main subject. Auto focus may want to focus on what's in the foreground rather than the background so switch to manual if this happens.
  All Blurry If you're trying to create an abstract shot where everything is soft, you need a subject that's colourful and has interesting shapes and lines otherwise your shot won't have the impact you first intended it to have.
  Zoom, Zoom, Zoom This technique is more about having an image that's not sharp rather than focusing but still, it gives you an interesting result that shows sharp isn't always best. To get it right you need to set the zoom to either the short or long end of the focal length range, open the shutter, wait for a while then in one, smooth, quite quick movement, zoom out. By pausing at the start your subject will have a little definition before the blur kicks in. Fit a neutral density filter or a polarising filter if you can't get a slow enough shutter speed and meter from your main focus point. Make sure you have a low ISO set and switch to a small aperture to get the slower shutter speed that's needed.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

There are many cameras that are now compatible with electronic viewfinders and they're an accessory that can become particularly useful when certain situations arise. With this in mind, here are three situations where an electronic viewfinder will come in helpful:

 

In Bright Light

When it's really bright, or the sun is shining straight onto the back of your camera, it can be really difficult to see anything on the screen, even if you up the brightness level. This is where the electronic viewfinder comes in, as you'll be able to see the scene perfectly clearly when you look through it, eliminating any glare getting in the way of composing your shot. 

 

 

Help Frame The Image

Sometimes, looking at the scene away from the camera slightly on the screen can result in a composure that's not so tidy. By using an electronic viewfinder, you can make sure everything you want is in the shot, and nothing you don't want creeps in thanks to the field of view they present. Sometimes, looking through the viewfinder and moving your camera around will allow you to discover new viewpoints that you wouldn't have thought of capturing before, too. 

 

Help To Stabilise Your Camera

Using the viewfinder can sometimes help you to stabilise the camera a bit more if using a tripod isn't an option. Holding the camera up to your eye while still holding the camera with two hands gives you three points of contact, helping to keep your image shake free. Plus, as mentioned earlier, this will help you to clearly compose your images too without getting distracted by what's around you.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

ePHOTOzine is happy to announce the winners of the 2025 Christmas Prize Draw giveaway!

 

Congratulations to all the winners, and thank you again to our kind sponsors.

 

Here are the winners!

 

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Day 5: SIGMA 17-40mm F1.8 DC Art:

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Day 6: 1 of 10 Zoner Studio yearly licenses:

1. Gary Macleod (Gary_Macleod)
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Not A Lucky Winner This Time?

Upload a photo to win our 'Photo of the Week' accolade that's up for grabs weekly! Each winner of the ‘Photo of the Week’ in 2026 wins a 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter from Samsung. We also have our for-fun Daily Theme Challenge, so join in and upload your favourite themed photos.

 

At this time of year, there is a high possibility that you might get caught out by rain showers when you're out exploring. If you do experience some rain, even if you're at home nice and dry when it begins, here are some ways that you can capture rain creatively. 

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1. Macro Raindrops

Shooting the raindrops as they gather on the window can make some really pretty abstract shots. Fit a macro lens to enable you to get really up close to your subject. Take into account the background of the image as although it will be blurred by the wide aperture you use, any obvious shapes could still take away from the image. Use some card to shield any glare and reflections that may appear. You could also have a go at refraction - where a smaller version of the world outside appears in the drop.
 

2. Raindrops on flowers and plants 

After the rain shower, head outside to shoot the raindrops on the flowers and plants in the garden or at your local park. Saturated, glistening leaves on plants will be really photogenic, producing vibrant images. Shoot abstract, macro images from different angles to emphasise the water drops. 

 

 

3. Reflections

Rainfall provides an excellent opportunity for you to photograph reflections where usually there wouldn't be an opportunity. Use reflection to photograph textures of building in small puddles or symmetry images in larger ones. Puddles near flowers will allow you to capture them from a different angle, looking upwards towards the sky. Longer shutter speeds will help to create a smoother-looking puddle if it's windy.

 

4. Splashes

Using a faster shutter speed will enable you to capture the splashes from puddles as cars and bikes ride through them, or people walk through them. This might be better captured through a zoom lens to avoid splashes landing on your equipment. It might also be an idea to use a continuous shutter mode, allowing you to take several shots at once and choose the best one. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

Skylum, the creator behind the award-winning AI photo editor Luminar Neo, has introduced a new feature called AI Assistant that makes photo editing fast, smarter and more intuitive. Released in December 2025 as part of the Luminar Neo update, photographers can now use the AI Assistant to type simple text commands and get tailored editing suggestions to enhance their photos and speed up their workflow.

 

Edit Smarter Through Text Commands

Available in both Presets and Edit tabs, the AI Assistant works by analysing your image’s composition, colours, and objects, then recommends edits that fit the image. Photographers can type requests or prompts such as “Enhance this photo” or “Turn this photo black and white” to instantly see up to three suggested edits, each with previews and short descriptions. 

Once a suggestion is applied, you can fine-tune the results in the Edit tab. This cuts down on guesswork and gives you a clear starting point. The best part? You're never limited. You can keep asking for fresh suggestions as many times as you like, experimenting until you find the look that feels just right.

 

Explore Tools With Guided Assistance

The AI Assistant is not only about quick fixes. For guidance-type queries, the AI Assistant highlights the most effective tools and provides direct access to them. This makes it easier to explore Luminar Neo’s features while you’re actively editing, helping you learn the software step by step without interrupting your workflow.

 

 

Enhance and Create With AI Suggestions

AI Assistant can suggest general enhancements, help boost colours, adjust white balance, and apply toning styles directly to your photo. It also provides guidance for edits like brightening, adjusting contrast, dehazing, or using tools for creative effects such as sky replacement, adding a sunset, perspective fixes and background replacement. These suggestions help you choose the right tools and approach for each image, whether you want subtle improvements or bold transformations.

 

Integrated With Luminar Neo’s Features

AI Assistant works seamlessly with Luminar Neo’s existing tools such as Relight AI, Sky Replacement and Portrait Background Removal. This integration means you can combine automated suggestions with advanced manual controls, creating a complete editing workflow inside one platform.

 

Try Luminar Neo and AI Assistant Today

Luminar Neo’s AI Assistant is available now for all users with version 1.26.0 or later. Download the software to streamline your workflow and enjoy faster, smarter editing.

Special Offer: Use code EPHOTOZINE at checkout for 10% off and explore the entire range of Luminar Neo features today.

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