DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

[SECTION]INTRODUCTION[/SECTION]

 

 

Quick Verdict

Canon has delivered what could be the ideal Hybrid Mirrorless Full-Frame camera, capable of the highest standards for both stills and video. With solid, sturdy construction, well-thought-out control layout and an extensive feature set, what's not to like?

 

Hybrid full-frame cameras have until now hovered around the 24MP mark, a point at which speed of operation and resolution meet to find a sensible compromise. This stretches now up to the 32.5MP of the Canon R6 Mark III, offering a new standard of performance. Is this a compromise that merely meets all the conflicting requirements in a no-man's-land or is it a bold new standard of performance that stretches the technical capabilities to new heights? Armed with the superb Canon RF 85mm f/1.4 VCM lens, we set forth on our voyage of discovery.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Features

First impressions are of a solid, chunky but not overly large camera body, thankfully weather resistant as we face the February rain, and weighing in at a manageable 699g with card and battery according to Canon, but actually measuring at 690g as we are using an SD card as opposed to the CFExpress Type B. If this was a video review, then the latter option would no doubt have been an advantageous choice.

The main features are detailed below, but there are some nice touches that deserve a mention. Even before the lens is attached, the protective cover for the sensor can be seen, and this is a really good idea. So many cameras leave the sensor naked and exposed when lenses are changed, so the added security offered by Canon is very welcome.

 

 

Stills/Video is selected by a small switch on the left of the top plate. On the right, we have the mode dial plus two control dials, the on/off switch and the stills and video shutter releases. The latter is separate but placed well, so that shaky starts can be better avoided.

The vari-angle screen is crisp and sharp, as is the OLED EVF. The magnification of the EVF image is only 0.76x, but it serves well enough. The image does not cause eye fatigue and gives an accurate representation of the scene.

 

 

Canon R6 Mark III Key Features

• Full frame
• IBIS up to 8.5 stops centre
• IBIS up to 7.5 stops peripheral
• 32.5MP CMOS sensor
• DIGIC X Processor
• Mechanical shutter 30s – 1/8000s
• Electronic shutter 30s – 1/16,000s
• Mechanical shutter up to 12fps
• Electronic shutter up to 40fps
• Dual pixel CMOS AF II -6.5EV to +20EV
• Metering range -3EV to +20EV
• ISO range 50-102,400
• 0.5cm OLED EVF 3.69M dots, up to 120fps refresh rate
• EVF 100% view, 0.76x
• 3” Vari-angle touch-sensitive TFT LCD monitor 1.62M dots
• Operation 0C to +40C
• WiFi, 5GHz/2.4GHz
• Bluetooth 5.1
• HDMI Type A
• E-3 remote terminal
• USB-C 3.2
• 3.5mm Mic and headphone sockets 
• Moisture and dust resistance
• 699g with battery and card
• Battery LP-E6P, approx 620 shots
• 1 SD UHS-II card slot
• 1 CFExpress Type B card slot
• 138.4 x 98.4 x 88.4mm

 

Canon R6 Mark III Handling

Although handling can be a very personal thing, Canon has impressively given us a myriad of options and possibilities to use and control the camera. There is a considerable amount of duplication, where more than one control alters a parameter. This is especially true within the extensive menus, where the top control wheel, the secondary control wheel and the rotary dial around the set button may all be utilised as we prefer. This is all fine as we simply choose the one we want to use. Dials and wheels can be reprogrammed as required and the camera can be set up to the individual photographer with ease. Spending time to set up things optimally will reap rewards in faster and more intuitive operation.

For this review, the lens control ring is set to alter ISO, the rear rotary dial is set to alter exposure compensation and the mode dial stays on Av. Aperture is controlled by the upper front dial. All the buttons do something useful. It's just a matter of learning what does what to get quick access to any features that might want regular adjustment. There is even a Colour button that gives direct access to the digital filters. 

The joystick moves the focus point, and when this is set to one point focus it can be easily relocated around the image field as required. To reset to centre, just push the joystick and it locks into centre, identified by a small dot appearing in the centre of the AF box. The joystick is well placed to avoid the point of focus being accidentally moved when the camera is being carried in one hand. There is something here that is rarely mentioned, and that is, if it is so convenient to carry the camera without a strap in the right hand, ready for instant use, then how does this work for a left-handed user? This applies to all marques, and is not singling out Canon. The only left-handed cameras I know of need us to look back at the 1950s and 1960s and makers such as Ihagee (Exakta).

In terms of what we have though, the R6 Mark III handles in a totally exemplary fashion, balancing well, operating slickly and delivering some fantastic shots. Within the Canon range, this reviewer would gravitate towards the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV in the DSLR range and this R6 Mark III in the R series mirrorless cameras, both around 30MP and offering a sensible balance between image size and speed of operation. The new camera is a pleasure to use.

 

[SECTION]PERFORMANCE[/SECTION]

Canon R6 Mark III Performance

The performance section is where we look at the image quality performance of the camera. Additional sample photos and product shots are available in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own review, photos and product ratings.
 

Canon R6 Mark III Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Lens Performance – The Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM lens provided with the camera for this review has been covered and is a truly excellent and impressive lens. There are plenty of outstanding Canon lenses that can be coupled with the R6 Mark III and will yield beautiful results. True, the L series lenses are expensive, but the camera deserves the best to take full advantage of its performance.

 

Canon R6 Mark III ISO test images Previous Next

 

ISO Performance – This is possibly the best ISO performance ever seen in any Canon body. Images are clean up to and including ISO 1600. Noise just creeps in at ISO 3200 and 6400, but even here, the structure is very tight and the integrity of the test chart boxes is maintained. ISO 12800 is still a tight grain structure, although noise is now clearly visible. ISO 25600 sees considerable noise, but again, the structure of the image is tight. Noise at ISO 51200 and 102400 is very obvious, but the box edges can still be discerned even in the darkest areas. An excellent result.

 

Canon R6 Mark III White-balance test images Previous Next

 

White Balance – There are a number of preset options for white balance, and various adjustments can be made to these. AWB has the usual options between white and ambience priority. To this we can add Daylight, Shade, Cloudy, Tungsten light, Fluorescent light, Flash, Custom and four slots for specific colour temperatures. AWB is useful for mixed lighting and general use, but to keep the colours of a scene, the other presets do a great job. Cloudy is very close to the Cloudy or 81A filters we used on film, and this setting warms portraits very attractively. Shade is perfect for those purple-hued woodland shadows and is especially effective for fungus hunting.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Digital filters Previous Next

 

Digital Filters – Interestingly, Canon has provided Scene modes on this body, despite it clearly being aimed at the advanced amateur and professional users. There is a wide selection, and these have not been shot with this review, as each setting clearly needs the specific situation to be meaningful. The settings available are Portrait, Smooth skin, Group Photo, Landscape, Panoramic shot, Sports, Kids, Panning, Close-up, Food, Night Portrait, Handheld Night Scene, HDR Backlight Control and Silent Shutter. It might be arguable that using such shortcuts doesn't end up teaching much about photography, but then it also is true that the beginner could end up with better images and this would be encouraging in itself.

More general digital filters are found in the Colour mode section of the menus. There are two groups of these and samples have been shot of all of them.

Picture Style settings are Auto, Standard, Portrait, Landscape, Fine Detail, Neutral, Faithful, Monochrome and three User Defined selections.

Colour Filters are a bit more exotic and sometimes somewhat mysterious, but we have StoryTeal&Orange, StoryMagenta, StoryBlue, PaleTeal&Orange, RetroGreen, Sepiatone, AccentRed, TastyWarm, TastyCool, BrightAmber, BrightWhite, ClearLightBlue, ClearPurple and ClearAmber.

 

Video –  We might expect a Canon Hybrid body to have a good set of video options:

• Open gate recording up to 30fps
• DCI 7K RAW up to 60fps
• 4K UHD up to 120fps
• 2K up to 180fps
• FHD up to 180fps
• Canon log 2, 3, HDR PQ and Canon 709
• Time lapse up to 4K 30fps

Quality of impromptu filming is excellent and focus tracks well. Stability is also excellent, and although a close look at the video aspects of the camera is outside the main focus of this review, it's clear that there is great potential for some convincing quality footage.

 

[SECTION]VERDICT[/SECTION]

 

 

Value For Money

The [AMUK]Canon R6 Mark III|Canon+R6+Mark+III[/AMUK] is priced at £2799.

To put this in perspective, let's look at a range of marques and prices:

Canon 

• [AMUK]R6 II|Canon+R6+II[/AMUK], £2199
• [AMUK]R5 II|Canon+R5+II[/AMUK], £4399
• [AMUK]R5|Canon+R5[/AMUK], £3149

Nikon

• [AMUK]Z6 III|Nikon+Z6+III[/AMUK], £2499
• [AMUK]Z7 II|Nikon+Z7+II[/AMUK], £2499
• [AMUK]Zf|Nikon+Zf[/AMUK], £2299

Panasonic Lumix

• [AMUK]S1R II|Panasonic+Lumix+S1R+II[/AMUK], £2999
• [AMUK]S1 IIE|Panasonic+Lumix+S1+IIE[/AMUK], £2199

Sony

• [AMUK]A7 IV|Sony+A7+IV[/AMUK], £2099
• [AMUK]A7 V|Sony+A7+V[/AMUK], £2799
• [AMUK]A7R V|Sony+A7R+V[/AMUK], £2999

These are all full frame, admittedly some rather more or less than the 32.5MP of the R6 Mark III. On that basis and its intended market place, probably the Sony A7 V is the closest competitor. Both are equally priced, so looking at lens costs, features, and handling are the factors that will separate the options out.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Verdict

This could end up being a battle of Giants as the Canon R6 Mark III pushes strongly into the full-frame hybrid camera market. There are so many great cameras, so looking at the cameras themselves is only the beginning. The lens range, the ability to use adapters to explore other ranges, and the availability or not of third-party options are all part of the bigger overall picture. The lens costs are likely to be high, as it would seem a waste to add a low-cost kit lens to a camera as fine as the R6 Mark III.

Of course, the cameras listed as possible alternatives are all very different beasts and in the end, it's down to handling and any specific requirements that the photographer may have. The R6 Mark III is certainly a terrific option, sturdy, efficient in handling and capable of the highest quality, both for stills and video. The noise control is also quite possibly the best seen so far from Canon.

Such a meeting of fine qualities leaves us with a very powerful option that is, inevitably, an Editor's Choice.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Pros

• Great images and video
• Well-thought-out control layout
• ISO performance is excellent
• Very fast and responsive AF
• Customisation options
• High-quality construction
• Moisture and dust resistance
• High-quality EVF

 

Canon R6 Mark III Cons

• Expensive
• No third-party lenses

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=5|R_value=4.5|R_overall=5|A_level=5|A_text=Editor's Choice – A powerhouse of features and performance from this versatile hybrid camera|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

 

View the Canon R6 Mark III camera specs in the equipment database.

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Meike has shared a preview of its upcoming lineup for CP+ 2026 in Yokohama, Japan, which will run from February 26 to March 1, 2026. The company will introduce its new lightweight Air series lenses along with the updated AF 85mm F1.4 Mark II.

 

New Air Series (APS-C)

The Air series debuts with three compact F1.7 prime lenses designed for mirrorless cameras:

• AF 25mm F1.7 
• AF 35mm F1.7
• AF 56mm F1.7

All three will be available in Sony E, Nikon Z, and Fujifilm X mounts, with both black and white finishes to match modern camera designs.

 

 

AF 85mm F1.4 Mark II (Full-Frame)

Part of Meike’s MIX series, the AF 85mm F1.4 Mark II is a lighter, second-generation version of the original lens. It features a newly upgraded autofocus motor for faster and quieter performance, along with professional refinements:

• Physical Controls: Aperture ring with click/de-click switch, focus ring, and aperture lock.
• Pro Build: Customizable Fn button and a dust- and splash-resistant sealing ring.
• Mounts: Available for Sony E, Nikon Z, and LUMIX L.

Attendees can see the new lenses at Meike booth No.70 in the Pacifico Yokohama.

For more information, please visit the Meike website.

 

We thought we'd put together a quick and easy to follow tutorial on photographing fruit and veg slices with a light source behind them which you can do indoors when it's raining outside. Why do this? Well, the bright light combined with a single or even a few slices of fruit or vegetable can produce an interesting 'arty' style photograph that's really easy to capture at home. 
 

1. Gear You'll Need 

As well as a camera and a macro lens with a short focal length you'll need a lightbox. If you don't own one, you can create one with a clear surface, a light source that can sit under it and something to diffuse the light such as muslin or tracing paper.

You'll also need a tripod, ideally one that has a centre column that can be twisted upside down or horizontally. By using a tripod that can do this you'll be able to work with the centre column rotated so your camera faces down onto the lightbox. This means your hands are kept free for chopping and adjusting fruit/veg slices, plus you can get closer to your subject. 

Don't forget your fruit and veg! Obvious choices are kiwi as the seeds produce interesting patterns but half-circles of onion, oranges, cucumbers and limes work well too. Have a think about how a particular fruit or vegetable may look when sliced up and placed on a lightbox. You shouldn't need to spend much money, plus you can eat any left-over specimens at the end!

  2. Preparation Is Key

 

Get your chopping board out and cut thin slices from your fruit/vegetable. Make sure you cut even slices so when the light passes through, you won't have one part that's darker than the other. Use a clean, sharp knife to slice your fruit/vegetable then place the slice on the lightbox.

Where possible, work away from windows, turn off your house lights and you may want to close the curtains/blinds to limit the amount of light coming in if it's bright outside. 

  3. Placement & Design 

If you're using multiple slices or various fruits/vegetables think about your composition. Repetition and patterns always work well and for some reason, working with odd items gives you a shot that's more pleasing to the eye. This doesn't mean you can't work with even numbers as they can work but the rule of odds is something you should just keep in mind.

  4. Setting Up The Shot

1. As with most close-up work, it's best to switch from auto focus to manual to stop your lens 'searching'. 
2. Take a test shot and check the exposure as the bright light may fool your camera into underexposing. If this happens, switching to a + exposure compensation should fix the problem or you can work in manual if you prefer.
3. You want the background to be bright but not so bright that you can't see the shapes and patterns in the segment of fruit or vegetable you're working with.
4. Good depth of field is needed and if you find problems with camera shake, switch your self-timer on so you have time to move away from the camera before the exposure's captured.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition

 

The well known saying: 'Keep it simple stupid' is well known for a reason – it works. Yes, there are times when lots of compositional elements do work but by creating an almost 'empty' space, you can actually create a stronger image.

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1. Why Does It Work?

By cutting out clutter, other people etc. you remove potential distractions and it'll be easier for the viewer of your image to understand what / who your main focus is in the shot and what you're trying to say.
 

2. Subject Choice

 

Just because you're keeping things simple it doesn't mean it has to be boring. Actually, with this technique, you have to work hard to do the opposite and find a strong subject that can stand up on its own. This becomes even more relevant when you're using a large amount of space so your subject only takes up a small amount of the frame.

Also, rather than thinking about what to include in your frame, think the opposite and look for items you can remove.
 

Here are a few ways you can achieve a minimalist look to your shots:

  3. Blurry Backgrounds

 

An obvious way to make your subject stand out is to adjust your aperture so everything in the background is thrown out of focus. You can find more tips on how to do this here: Creative Aperture / Depth Of Field

  4. Plain Backgrounds

Studio backgrounds and other material can be used to hide distracting objects inside and while you're out, use plain walls, fences or if you're shooting small subjects such as flowers, try taking your own backgrounds with you. On the subject of flowers, you can lower your angle so you're shooting up at the flower with the sky as your background which can give you a minimalist-style shot. White backgrounds are an obvious choice but don't think you can't use some bold, strong colour too (as we'll explain further down the page).

 

5. Play With Colour

 

If your subject and background contrast your subject will stand out from the shot. You can do this with colour (bright, strong colours work well) or light, using a brighter subject against a darker background and vice versa. Just make sure there are no 'hot spots' which will pull the viewer's eye away.

Also, having a strong colour filling your background that's the same as your subject can work in some situations or try producing black & white shots which rely on strong subjects and textures to make them interesting. You could even use shapes and colour as your subject, creating a strong composition that fills your frame in the process. 

6. Space To Breath

When used right, adding space to a shot can work just as well as cropping in close. To find out why sometimes it's what you leave out of your images that makes them great, read our tutorial: How To Use Negative Space In Your Photos

 

7. Crop Out Objects

An easy way to remove objects that are at the edge of your frame is to use your zoom to crop them out. You can also use editing software such as Photoshop to crop your images and we have a detailed tutorial on how to use this tool here: Introduction To Photoshop's Crop Tool

If you find the distracting objects are too close to your subject to crop out, you could use the Clone Stamp Tool to remove them. You can also remove distracting backgrounds and replace them with plain ones in Photoshop, too.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

 

Canon's latest RF lens continues the introduction of the high-quality VCM primes, joining the 24mm, 35mm and 50mm, all taking 67mm filters and all a very similar size. These are Hybrid lenses, intended for both stills and video and the features offered reflect this. 85mm is, of course, the classic portrait focal length, and the staple lens diet for wedding and social photographers across the decades. There is a vast choice of 85mm lenses, some general in use and some of a more specialist nature, but the choice is there. So let's set forth on our journey of discovery, matching up the new lens with the equally new 32.5MP Canon R6 Mark III.

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Handling and Features

The lens is of moderate size, measuring just 76.5mm x 99.8mm and weighing in at 636g. A generously sized round lens hood is provided and this bayonets securely onto the lens. The fit is slick and positive and the retaining catch makes sure it stays firmly in place. Within the bayonet fit for the hood is a standard 67mm filter thread, a size that is shared with the other VCM lenses in the range.

 

 

First up is the control ring, which can be programmed to exposure compensation (when the shutter release is half depressed), ISO, aperture or shutter speed, via the camera menu, depending on the mode chosen and the preferences of the photographer. If desired, the wider focus ring can be programmed to be the control ring, and in this case, the original control ring becomes inactive.

Closest focus is 0.75m for a maximum magnification of 0.12x. AF is driven by a VCM (Voice Coil Motor) for fast, accurate and virtually silent AF. Focus snaps in every time with no hint of hunting.

Optical construction is 14 elements in 10 groups, including 1 UD (Ultra Low Dispersion) and 1 GMo (Glass moulded aspherical). The rounded diaphragm comprises 11 blades for the best possible bokeh. ASC and SSC coatings complete the picture, along with a Fluorine coating on the front element to help repel moisture, dust and grease. The whole lens is sealed and is moisture and dust resistant.

 

 

There is an AF/MF switch, an AF cancel button and a release for the aperture ring. With support for videography in mind, the aperture ring can be set to "A" in which case the camera controls the aperture, or it can be set manually on the aperture scale. In the latter case, there are no click stops, nor is there any option to switch them in. There is no inbuilt IS and this is covered by the camera IBIS. This offers up to 8 stops advantage at the centre and 7 stops at the edge. The lens is not compatible with extenders.

The lens is actually a gem to handle and like any 85mm lens, snaps beautifully into focus. The depth of field of an 85mm also makes for some gorgeous out-of-focus backgrounds. Having said that, it is a short telephoto and not as versatile for general use as a short standard zoom would be, but then that is not its purpose. The fast f/1.4 aperture also helps, and the lens is not so bulky as an f/1.2 version would inevitably be. A delightful lens to use.

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Performance

There need be no fears regarding sharpness with this lens, as it has sharpness in abundance right from the start.

Central sharpness is excellent at f/1.4 and f/2, outstanding at f/2.8 and f/4, excellent from f/5.6 to f/11 and very good at f/16. The edges are excellent from f/1.4 right through to f/8, and very good at f/11 and f/16.

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Canon R6 Mark III body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA is highly corrected, approaching zero and is unlikely to be an issue.

Distortion measures +0.05%, which is as close to being rectilinear as makes no difference. Architectural shots will be rendered with a high degree of accuracy.

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Canon R6 Mark III body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh, gorgeous and delicious, is the forte of the 85mm, and will delight brides and grooms as well as anyone who is the subject of a fine portrait lens.

Flare is not generally an issue, but artefacts can be generated when severe lighting is allowed to shine directly into the field of view.

Vignetting is well under control, with just a hint of corner darkening being as much an advantage as a disadvantage with portraiture, concentrating our eyes on the main subject.

 

Aperture Vignetting f/1.4 -0.9 f/2 -0.8 f/2.8 -0.8 f/4 -0.8 f/5.6 -0.7 f/8 -0.7 f/11 -0.7 f/16 -0.7

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM|Canon+RF+85mm+f/1.4L+VCM[/AMUK] lens is priced at £1679.00

There is quite a choice of 85mm lenses for Canon RF, including:

• [AMUK]Canon RF 85mm f/2 IS Macro STM|Canon+RF+85mm+f/2+IS+Macro+STM[/AMUK], £619
• [AMUK]Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM|Canon+RF+85mm+f/1.2L+USM[/AMUK], £2999
• [AMUK]Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM DS|Canon+RF+85mm+f/1.2L+USM+DS[/AMUK], £3499
• [AMUK]Laowa 85mm f/5.6 2x Ultra Macro APO|Laowa+85mm+f/5.6+2x+Ultra+Macro+APO[/AMUK], £499
• [AMUK]Lensbaby Velvet 85mm f/1.8|Lensbaby+Velvet+85mm+f/1.8[/AMUK], £499
• [AMUK]NiSi Athena 85mm T1.9 Cine|NiSi+Athena+85mm+T1.9+Cine[/AMUK] Lens, £1139
• [AMUK]Samyang MF 85mm f/1.4|Samyang+MF+85mm+f/1.4[/AMUK], £299
• [AMUK]Samyang VD SLR 85mm T1.9 Mk II|Samyang+VD+SLR+85mm+T1.9+Mk+II[/AMUK], £412
• [AMUK]Zeiss Otus ML 85mm f/1.4|Zeiss+Otus+ML+85mm+f/1.4[/AMUK], £2350

Top-of-the-line 85mm lenses do not come cheap, but the new Canon lens does look like it is pitched at a realistic level.

 

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Verdict

For stills, a superbly sharp 85mm lens perfect for portraits, weddings and social events plus of course all the usual applications for a short telephoto. For video, virtually silent VCM focusing plus a silent click-free aperture ring. Wedding photographers may well be delighted with this new offering from Canon, although if soft-focus effects are required, then filters will need to be used. As part of the VCM range, it also matches almost exactly in size and weight with the rest of the range, making a very attractive set of high-quality prime lenses.

There is much to like about this lens, and it duly receives a 5-star rating and the accolade of Editor's Choice.

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Pros

• Excellent to outstanding sharpness
• Virtually no CA
• Modest vignetting
• Very well made
• Virtually rectilinear
• Moisture and Dust resistant
• Smooth bokeh
• Superb handling
• Fair pricing

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Cons

• Some flare in extreme conditions

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=5|R_value=4.5|R_overall=5|A_level=5|A_text=Editor's Choice – A superb Hybrid 85mm lens perfect for both stills and video shooting.|E_id=8027[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

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Contradictory to what you're told when you first pick up a camera, it is OK to have blur, and quite a lot of it, in your shots when you're photographing the right subject and want to emphasise speed or create a sense of motion. When we say it's OK we don't just mean a shot you accidentally took out of focus will pass off as something creative, you have to deliberately adjust your camera's settings or know how a quick twist of your lens will give you the blur that's needed to add a sense of action to your shot.

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1. How To Add Blur

The two ways we are going to look at are slowing down your shutter speed and using zoom blur (movement of your lens). The second can be a little harder to get a grasp of but after a few tries, it should become easier.

 

 

2. Shutter Speeds

If you've never shot action-style images before you may first think that a subject that's moving through your frame quick will need a quicker shutter speed to ensure you capture them as they move through your frame. You can do this but most of the time you'll just end up with a shot that freezes them in place and all sense of motion will be lost. However, there are a couple of exceptions to the rule such as a rally car or cyclist hurtling through a muddy puddle. As they move through the water, they'll more than likely cause spray to fly everywhere and a quick shutter speed will freeze the spray as it jumps up towards the sky, surrounding your subject. It's the spray here that helps emphasis the action and their pace so using a slower shutter speed will mean this excitement would be lost.
 

3. Slow Things Down

For times when there's no mud and water flying everywhere try slowing your shutter speed down to add some much-needed motion to the shot. How slow you have to go will depend on how fast your subject is moving, how much light is around etc. and the whole process can be a little unpredictable, however, it's worth sticking with and experimenting as you can get great results, some of which are surprising sometimes.
 

4. Balance

The hard bit can be trying to get the balance of blur and in-focus parts of the shot right. Most of the time a blurred background that has streaks running through it in the direction your subject is moving with a sharp subject sat against it is what you'll be looking for, however, if your subject is a little blurred it can emphasise motion and add further drama to your shot. Don't go too over the top with the blur though as they can just end up merging together which makes it hard for the eye to focus, meaning it's hard for the viewer to settle on one point of the image and it can make it look like you just took a bad shot.

 

 

5. Focus

For shots where you want your subject to be sharp, make sure you're focused on them as you follow them through the frame. A quick autofocus system will help ensure your shot is focused quickly and accurately. Trying to focus manually with fast-moving objects can be tricky, however, it can be done if you plan on pre-focusing on a spot, say on a particular bend on a track, you know your subject will have to pass through. Just remember to lock your focus after you've set it up and be ready to hit the shutter button at the right time.

Switching to continuous shooting mode which most cameras now feature will increase your chances of capturing the action when panning or pre-focusing on one spot. You'll need to start shooting just before your subject comes into frame though to ensure you don't miss a shot due to shutter lag. If you're panning make sure you keep the pan going even after your subject has left the frame and you've got your shot.
 

6. Flash

To brighten your subject so they pop from your frame and to freeze them in place while the background is blurred switch to slow sync flash which combines a slow shutter speed with a burst of flash. The slow shutter speed means the camera will blur the background and further subject movement. Depending on if you're using front or rear curtain will change when the flash is introduced, freezing your subject's movement at different points of the shot.

 

 

7. Zoom Blur

To really emphasise your sport and action shots, giving them a dynamic edge, try using zoom burst to create blur that you deliberately create by twisting the zoom on your lens as you take a shot.

As well as emphasising movement it can help make your subject, who's not blurred, 'pop' from the frame. A burst of light from a flashgun will help freeze your subject and add sharpness to the image.

On paper, it's a simple technique but it can take some time to actually master. You need a lens that will zoom and experimenting with different lens lengths will change the overall effect. Changing the starting point of the zoom and the length of time you zoom for and how quickly you move the lens will also change the final look of the shot. For action shots, it's best to use shorter exposures which you start while you're moving the lens. Starting zoomed out and pulling the zoom in during the exposure makes it easier to capture a sharp shot of your subject with the zoom blur surrounding them.

Adding a little bit of camera movement will adjust the pattern the zoom blur creates and can be used to direct the eye on a particular path through your shot.
 

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Leading bag manufacturer Billingham launched a brand-new leisure range marking a deliberate shift from its traditional photographic bag collections.

The new range introduces three non-photographic bag designs, created with everyday versatility in mind while retaining the brand’s signature build quality and attention to detail. The collection is designed to appeal to customers looking for practical, stylish bags suitable for daily use, travel, and leisure.

The range comprises of two handbags and one tote bag, whose names have been inspired by the unsung heroes of the film set.

The three new styles are:

• Dolly Grip – Refined, functional and beautiful. This small handbag is designed for effortless everyday style.
• Key Grip – A perfectly balanced medium-sized handbag designed for everyday use.
• Best Boy Tote – A spacious statement-making tote, perfect for work, travel or everyday use.

Both the Dolly Grip and Key Grip will be available in four colour combinations:

• Khaki Canvas/Chocolate Leather
• Sage FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Black FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Burgundy Canvas/Black Leather

The Best Boy Tote will be offered in two colourways:

• Sage FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Black FibreNyte/Black Leather

Across all three designs, the range shares a consistent set of practical features, including a removable shoulder sling, multiple handy zip pockets, and an internal brass key loop, making each bag both functional and adaptable to different lifestyles.

The launch represents a notable evolution for the manufacturer, expanding its product offering beyond photographic use and into a broader leisure market, while continuing to design and manufacture from its factory in the West Midlands.

The new leisure range is now available online at www.billingham.co.uk and through a few selected retailers, with UK SRP (including VAT) as follows: Dolly Grip at £289.00, Key Grip at £359.00, and Best Boy Tote at £426.00.

 

An impressive capture of a kingfisher posing above still water, Waiting by Tonyd3 has a clear and steady feel.

The bird is perched on a weathered metal loop just above the water, with its reflection mirrored beneath it. Small green plants sit alongside the metal, while the smooth surface of the water adds to the balanced look. The bird remains perfectly still, as if waiting to catch something below the surface. This calm setting and the gentle reflections create a dreamy mood that makes the whole moment feel peaceful.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

Photo by cattyal

 

The most popular approach to flower photography is to include the whole flower but by getting in very close or by choosing a less conventional crop you can create a rather exciting image. Plus, it's a technique you can try all year round as you can just buy your flowers from the supermarket when there's none showing their heads in your garden.

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1. Work Near A Window 

A greenhouse is a great location for shooting close-ups of flowers as there's plenty of light, you're sheltered from the wind and if the windows are slightly dirty the light will be nicely diffused. If you don't have a greenhouse work indoors next to a set of patio doors or a large window and use a net curtain or muslin to diffuse the light.

 

2. Direction, Apertures & Focus 

Position your vase/flower pot so you can work directly above it then begin experimenting with different apertures and shooting distances to change the overall effect. Start with a nice wide aperture to minimise your depth of field and switch to manual focusing as you can get in closer than your camera thinks. Although, it’s not even really necessary to have any part of the image in focus as the flower colour and shape can produce attractive abstract swirls of soft colour.

If you don’t have the ability to get in close then try some creative cropping. The sweep of a single Lily petal or the shape of an Iris lend themselves to close crops.

  3. Multiple Exposures  If your camera has it, try experimenting with the Multiple Exposure Mode. This mode allows you to take several shots on the same 'frame' which the camera then combines to create one shot. Having the lens sharply focused then defocusing as you move from exposure to exposure will give you a soft, dreamy look to your photograph.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to dke (Day 4 - Flower Photography).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Frost Photography

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Day 2

Commute Photography

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Day 3

Glass Photography

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  Day 5

Car Photography

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Day 6

Football Photography

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Day 7

Food Photography

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

   

The idea of movement isn't usually a thought that first springs to mind when you try to describe what a landscape shot is. However, when you start to think of popular landscape topics such as waterfalls, rivers, trees, clouds and the sea, you suddenly realise movement, which makes shots more dynamic, crops up more often than you think.

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Slowing your shutter speeds can create a sense of movement in your landscape shots. Just remember you'll need to use a smaller aperture to limit the amount of light that reaches your camera's sensor. If you don't, you'll end up with a shot that's overexposed. If you find your shots are still a little on the light side, fit an ND filter to further reduce the amount of light going through your lens. For shots where you want to exaggerate the power/strength of your subject or for shots that have people/vehicles moving or birds in-flight, you'll need quicker shutter speeds, a steady hand and good panning technique all of which we'll look at later on.

  1. Waves

For shots of waves crashing against cliffs and sea walls you'll need a quick-ish shutter speed, around 1/125 should help you capture the power on display. Just remember, unless you want a soaking, to keep yourself and your kit out of the wave's reach. Have a lens cloth handy and remember to wipe your kit down thoroughly once you're back home.

For shots where the waves turn into a mass of soft, blue and white blur use exposures which are 5 seconds or more. If it's a particularly bright day make sure you have an ND filter to-hand and use the smallest aperture and ISO possible. If you want the waves to have a little more shape to them use a slightly shorter exposure. How short you go will depend on the amount of shape you want and how choppy the sea is on the day so you may end up experimenting with a few different exposures before you land on the one that gives you the shot you're after.

 

 

2. Waterfalls

We've covered waterfalls in a previous article so here are just a few quick tips to get you started. For a more in-depth look, take a look at our previous technique: Shooting waterfalls.

• What shutter speed you use will be determined by how much blur you want, the focal length you're using and the amount of light available.
• Pick an overcast day when you're going to be using longer exposures. Your shot is less likely to have contrast problems too when there's a touch of cloud cover.
• An ND filter can help you extend your exposure times while a Polarising filter will reduce the amount of glare/reflection coming off the water.
• Turn the waterfall's movement into a mass of blur - 1/8 sec longer
• Faster shutter speeds will enhance the power/force of the waterfall, freezing the movement of the water as it cascades and splashes on rocks.
• Have a go at photographing water bubbles.

 

  3. Clouds

Cloud formations can appear and vanish again even before you've thought about taking a shot so if you do spot an interesting one make sure you snap it straight away. Keep an eye on your histogram to make sure your shot doesn't have areas which are overexposed and if the formation is really spectacular cut some of the foreground out, moving the horizon down so the sky fills more of your shot. Use slower shutter speeds to blur the movement of the clouds and look out for trails left by planes too as the crisscrossing lines can make an interesting abstract shot.

 

4. Birds and People

If you want to capture birds in-flight you'll need a quick shutter speed, continuous autofocus and a good panning technique. As soon as you see a bird come into shot lock your focus on it straight away and follow it through the frame, panning even after you've taken your shot. To freeze the movement you'll need to use a shutter speed around 1/500sec but if you want to blur the movement of their wings try something slower around 1/30sec.

When it comes to people, how fast your shutter speed is will depend on what they're doing. For example, someone who's water skiing will be moving a lot quicker than someone rowing across a lake.

For more tips on panning and capturing people moving take a look at our articles:

• Panning tips
• Capture motion
• Shutter speeds explained

      5. Trees

Leaves blowing in the wind are an obvious way to capture movement in a forest but for something artier, try creating a drag landscape. For tips on how to do this take a look at our articles:

• Drag landscapes
• Drag landscapes in the woods

 

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