DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

If you're jetting off to warmer shores this summer and want to capture a few shots out of your plane's window, here are a few tips to help you ensure your images are good enough for the start of your holiday photo collection. 

1. Don't Get Carried Away With Kit 

Do be considerate of those sitting next to you which means you can't empty all of your kit into your lap from your bag. Turn beeps and other noises off as these will just annoy those around you and don't take photos during takeoff, landing or when electronic equipment isn't allowed to be used. Most smartphones have decent cameras on them now and these are slightly more discreet than a DSLR but do remember to activate airplane mode before takeoff if you do plan on using your phone's camera. 
 

2. Choose Your Seat

The majority of airlines now let you pick your seat so if you really do want to take top shots from your seat, think about your selection carefully as not all seats will give you a clear view. Of course, you'll need to make sure you have a window seat as a stranger won't appreciate you leaning over them. Towards the front or back of the plane will give you the best view but do remember you do get the odd seat that only has half a window as it's in between two seats. Try to avoid sitting directly over the wing too as all you'll be able to take photos of is the wing. Once on board, if you can't position yourself so the window frame isn't in shot, take your photo anyway and just crop it out once you're in front of your computer.
 

3. Be Aware Of Camera Shake & Reflections 

When at zoos, museums or other locations where glass can mean reflections spoil your shots you'd normally put your lens against the glass to prevent this but on a plane, this will just result in shake, caused by the plane's engines, to spoil your shots. Instead, use a lens hood and get as close to the glass as possible without touching it or cup your hand around the lens to shield it. You'll also want to avoid using flash and turn off your overhead light if it's on to minimise the amount of reflection you see on the pane. 

 

 

4. Use Manual Focus

Some windows will be badly scratched which can make focusing tricky. Switching to manual focus can help but sometimes they'll be so badly scratched that anything you take will be slightly fuzzy but you won't know this until you sit in your seat. If you're using a compact, to stop it focusing on the window, set it to infinity focus or switch on the Landscape mode.
 

5. Wait For The Right Angle

Due to the small window and the angle, you'll be sat at it can be tricky to take photos of the ground but if you have your camera ready for when the plane banks you'll be given the perfect opportunity to capture ground shots. 

 

 

6. What To Photograph

Try not to get carried away taking the same shots over and over again, instead look for interesting cloud formations, patterns created by fields, roads etc., sunsets and other planes. The wing, especially if you have a brilliant blue sky behind it, can make an interesting shot, too. 
 

7. Take Your Shots Early In The Flight

If possible, shoot earlier rather than later as condensation and ice tend to build up on plane windows the longer it is in the air. If there's something you want to capture that's closer to your destination consider shooting it on the return journey rather than shooting through a window with condensation. 
 

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  Natural light is often the only light available to us when we are out shooting. But far from being an untameable beast, there are several ways that you can control it to achieve your desired photo.   1. Pay Attention To How It 'Looks'

A scene can look very different depending on what time of day you're looking at it. For this reason, when possible, it's worth visiting a location at various points a day or so before you want to take your photos as this will give you the opportunity to judge when it looks at its best. Of course, this isn't always possible but a little research on the internet may uncover some information on your chosen location you can use to your advantage.

Don't always think you have to shoot in the 'golden hours' either as you some subjects, such as close-up work for creating textures, look better when photographed at other points during the day. Having said that, early morning or late sun can transform a scene which appears flat and not very inspiring during the middle of the day. 
 

2. Light Direction

By changing your shooting position or moving your subject (if possible) you can alter the direction the light falls. The relationship between the direction of light and your subject is important as it can change your image from a good shot to a great one. Think about light direction when setting up and decide if front, side or backlight is perfect for the scene. Side lighting often produces the best highlights and shadows which is key for giving shots a dimensional feel. 

 

 

3. Reflect Light

Reflectors come in many shapes, sizes and colours. Predominantly though they are white, silver or gold and each type of colour will reflect light slightly differently. White reflectors are a safe bet but if you want a brighter light, use a silver reflector, while gold ones produce a warmer light. 

Why do you need to use a reflector? Well, it's a simple and reasonably inexpensive way to bounce light where it's needed. Try not to hold the reflector too low and remember that light will bounce back off a reflector at the same angle it hit it at. Also, the closer the reflector is to your subject, the stronger the light reflecting off it will be. 
 

4. Diffuse Light 

When working indoors with window light, curtains can be used as barn doors or flags to control the 'spill' of the light and a net or something similar can be used to diffuse and soften the light.  

If you're working outdoors ask your subject to move into a shaded area where the light will be more even and as a result, your portrait will be more flattering. 

 

 

 

5. Post Processing

Even though we strive to get everything right in camera, often shots need a slight tweak during post-production to balance the tonal range. We know this isn't about working with natural light when out in the field but it's about making the natural light balance correctly throughout the image. 
 

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