DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

After you leave the basic compact camera market you can group the other models into four main groups of camera which are: DSLR, Mirrorless / Compact System camera, Bridge Cameras and the Advanced Compact.

It can be difficult to know what type of camera that it is you want or need, so we've created this article to outline the main differences, and the pros and cons of each camera, to help you make a more informed decision about what camera is best for you.

 
What Is An Advanced / Serious Compact Camera?

An advanced compact camera is generally quite small, and these days is packed with loads of features. They usually have more fun features than their larger counterparts, such as lots of inbuilt image filters and effects.

Advanced compacts are quickly becoming bigger competitors with mirrorless cameras in terms of image quality and settings every year. As technology advances, compacts get more megapixels, more zoom and loads more settings in a small body that is easily carried everywhere.

Smaller compact cameras will most likely use a CCD or CMOS sensor. These sensors are small and vary in image quality. A CCD sensor will provide better quality and clearer, less distorted images, but they use a lot more power than CMOS sensors and are more expensive to make. CMOS sensors can be more susceptible to noise but are much more energy-efficient and easy to produce. Although the recent introduction of "Backlit" or Back Side Illumination (BSI) CMOS sensors has helped improve noise performance. The smaller the sensor, the smaller the pixels will be on that sensor, resulting in more image noise as the pixels can't take in as much light.

Compact cameras as a whole these days will include features like a program and manual mode, to give the user more control over the settings. However, compact cameras often don't have the necessary control over features like focusing and exposure. Because of the small size of the system, compact cameras will not have the aperture or ISO range of a larger camera. 

Take a look at our Top 10 Best Serious Compact Digital Cameras guide to see which serious compacts top our list. 

What Are The Advantages And Disadvantages Of Advanced Compacts?

Pros:

• Small size
• Nowadays they have 16MP plus, making them more than adequate for most photography
• Many effects and filters
• They have many of the programs and manual features that were previously only found on DSLRs a few years ago

Cons:

• Less zoom capability than cameras with interchangeable lenses and bridge cameras
• Lesser image quality than cameras with bigger sensors
• Sometimes can be difficult to get a good grip on due to their small size and slim designs
• Less control over exposure settings

 

 

Bridge / Ultra Zoom Cameras

Bridge cameras are generally larger and more chunky than compact cameras. They don't have interchangeable lenses, but often offer more zoom and larger megapixel numbers because of their larger size. A bridge camera is a great purchase if you are looking for something with a little more to give than a compact. They are often easier to hold and feel a little more robust than compacts, and some mirrorless cameras too. This style of camera lets you get wide-angle shots and then zoom into distant subjects.

You can find more information on Bridge cameras in our Top 10 Best Ultra Zoom Digital Cameras Article which you can find here.

 

What Are The Advantages And Disadvantages Of Bridge / Ultra Zoom Cameras?

Pros:

• Manual controls are often available 
• Plenty of zoom for your money!
• Good handling
• Choice of battery type
• Good or excellent macro performance, as well as increased depth of field, so more of the picture is in focus

Cons:

• Lesser image quality than cameras with bigger sensors
• Can be bulky in size
• Generally, not too great in low light
• Difficult to obtain blurred backgrounds/subject separation

 

 

What Is A Mirrorless Or Compact System Camera?

Mirrorless or compact system cameras are the latest edition to the camera family. They were designed as a hybrid between a DSLR and a compact, keeping the high image quality but lessening the size of the camera body drastically to create something small yet powerful.

Mirrorless cameras have no TTL viewfinder which means body size is reduced. Most mirrorless cameras use a large back screen to display the image and some have electronic viewfinders, or the ability to attach an electronic viewfinder to them.

Mirrorless and interchangeable cameras have evolved a lot since they were first introduced and have now formed two subgroups; cameras that look like DSLRs but are smaller in size and those that look like compacts with interchangeable lenses. Today's technology means that mirrorless cameras can use very flat pancake lenses that still provide a very high image quality.

Different brands of mirrorless cameras use different systems for attaching the lenses, meaning that only certain lenses can be brought for certain cameras. For example, Panasonic and Olympus use the Micro Four Thirds system, while Samsung uses the NX mount and Sony uses the E-mount. Some cameras have adapters allowing you to fit different lenses and even DSLR lenses.

The mirrorless camera will generally have more manual settings and more of the advanced features of a DSLR. Their interchangeable lenses mean that they are more versatile as a camera, as you can fit specific lenses for your preferred area of photography, for example, macro or wide-angle lenses.

Mirrorless cameras can have the same size sensors as DSLR cameras, but they vary a lot from make-to-make. Mirrorless cameras are still a fairly new and emerging style of camera, but often feature some of the latest innovation and technologies.

 

What Are The Advantages And Disadvantages Of A Mirrorless / Compact System?

Pros:

• Small and with technology are now very much as good as DSLRs in some respects
• Manual setting and more control than compacts but still in a small body
• Modern and still evolving
• Shallow depth of field possible/blurred backgrounds
• Less complicated mechanically than a DSLR, therefore often cheaper to buy

Cons:

• Can sometimes be top-heavy due to large lenses on small compact style body
• Potentially limited lenses available for each camera due to different systems of attaching
• Still have less telephoto zoom capability than DSLRs
• Macro performance of standard lenses can be poor, requiring dedicated lenses for macro work
• Battery life often not as good as DSLRs

   
What Is A DSLR Camera?

DSLR cameras are the direct digital descendants of the SLR film cameras. Standing for Digital Single Lens Reflex, DSLRs are chunky but are still unrivalled in terms of possible image quality. New DSLRs can pack a lot of megapixels into an APS-C or full-frame sensors, making them the best in terms of quality and manual preference settings.

DSLRs generally have black bodies that can be quite hefty, especially when they have a long zoom lens attached. What makes the DSLR a good choice is that you are not tied to only one or two brands of lens for your camera. Most DSLRs fit third party lenses such as Sigma or Tamron, giving you variety in terms of price and features, depending on what you want.

DSLRs can be quite difficult to get your head around at first, with all the different settings and possibilities, but over time, a DSLR can become a great tool for producing stunning photos. They have a lot more breadth in terms of settings than other cameras. Because of their size, they have larger aperture brackets and higher ISO settings, meaning that they provide better opportunities for a much wider range of photographic genres and subjects. Have a look at some of the best APS-C DSLRs or best Full-Frame DSLRs.

  What Are The Advantages And Disadvantages Of DSLR Cameras?

Pros:

• Great image quality
• Manual settings
• Loads more exposure breadth
• Generally longer battery life than the other cameras
• Optical viewfinder so can see directly through the lens
• Good handling

Cons

• Big and hefty
• Can be complicated to get your head around
• Expensive for the camera and lenses

    So, What Camera Is Best For Me?

At the end of the day, it depends on what your budget is, what you want from a camera and how professional you are looking to go. It will surely depend person-to-person, but as a rough guide, ask yourself a few questions:

• Do I want photographs of professional quality?
• Do I want a camera that has to be carried around in a separate bag because of its size?
• Do I have the money to buy lenses and other equipment to improve my kit?

If the answer to two or more of these is yes, then you may want to consider investing in a DSLR for that image quality edge. If the answer to two or more of these is no, then perhaps something smaller like a mirrorless or advanced compact is the camera for you. While still having good image quality and a host of different settings, these cameras provide a more portable option.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

A stunning capture of a tawny owl in flight has earned our latest 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) accolade.

'Tawny Owl Coming In To Land' by Debmercury captures the owl as it approaches a footpath sign with talons ready to grip the wooden post. The detail is extraordinary, with every feather standing out against the black background. You can see the soft plumage texture and the sharp detail in the owl's dark eye as it prepares to land. The composition is brilliant too, with the rustic wooden sign adding a charming touch of countryside character. It's the kind of shot that requires skill, timing, and more than a little luck to pull off.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2026, we’ll crown our 2025 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

When capturing waterfalls you can make water appear as if it's frozen in time so every splash and droplet is captured in the frame or you can go to the opposite end of the scale and smooth the flow of water out into almost a dry-ice, cloud-like texture. At this time of year, there's the added option of capturing frozen shapes that water's created when it's splashed up over rocks and grass found at the edges of the falls, too

So, which effect should you go for and what shutter speed will you need to create it? Well, generally speaking, fast shutter speeds freeze motion while slower shutter speeds exaggerate and blur it. Which you want to use will depend on the type of image you are trying to create and even though using slower shutter speeds is popular with many photographers, it doesn't mean you have to use them.

Here, we'll look at both forms of photography and offer tips on using each technique to create a specific style of shot.

For those who haven't used Shutter Priority Mode before you can usually switch to it by turning your mode dial to the 'S' setting. How you alter the shutter speed can change from camera-to-camera so it's best to look in your camera's manual before heading out with all of your gear. Switching to shutter-priority will allow you to control the length of the time the shutter is open for.

 

1. Freezing Motion

If you're capturing a fall where the flow of water is quite rapid and you don't want to lose the sense of motion, try using fast shutter speeds. If you're working in aperture priority you can set a wide aperture (f/2.8 - 4) to get the quicker shutter speeds you need. You can also bump up your ISO to gain a faster shutter speed.

To freeze movement you have to set a fast enough shutter speed to prevent the subject’s movement blurring as it moves across the sensor. What shutter speed you need will change depending on how fast the water is moving so experimentation is key. However, if you find the results aren't all that spectacular you'll probably prefer to use the popular slow shutter speed technique.

 

2. Slowing Motion

 

Blurred water cascades falling over rocks are a popular photographic subject. Why? Well, love it or loathe it, it can look great in the right situation and even small cascades can look like raging torrents when captured this way.

This technique will work particularly well when really cold temperatures arrive as water that hits grasses and rocks found at the side of moving water will freeze and as John Gravett has said in a previous article: "a long shutter speed will contrast the moving water with the icy margins, and a small aperture will give you a wide depth of field, ensuring front to back sharpness."
 

Time Of Day/Year

Remember though, if it's cold enough for ice, you'll need good winter clothing on to keep you warm and do be extra careful when working at the sides of rivers and waterfalls when icy patches can form on the sides you'll be standing on.

You will find that early morning or late afternoon on an overcast day is the perfect time to photograph waterfalls using this particular technique. Ice and frost are more likely to still be around during the earlier part of the day, too. If you try and shoot later in the day, particularly during sunny, summer months, the bright sun stops you using slow shutter speeds and the contrast can be horrendous. Although a polariser, as well as a neutral density filter, are handy for cutting down the amount of light reaching the camera sensor.

 

 

Experimentation Is Key 

As mentioned above, experimentation is key when it comes to shutter speeds as the speed of the water, its volume, where you are stood and how much blur you want to create will all play a part in altering your shutter speed. However, 1/8sec to 1/15sec should be a good starting point (you should be able to create motion without losing too much texture) but if this doesn't work, change the shutter speed and take the shot again. For really milky shots, speeds as long as ten seconds could be needed.

Take care when metering water as the large areas of light tones can fool the meter into underexposing, making the picture look dark. You'll probably find that it's worth bracketing your shot, perhaps shooting at plus and minus one stop.

 

Filters & Tripods

If areas of the water begin to overexpose (appear too bright) you'll need to fit an ND filter to use the slower speeds you want without 'blown out' areas spoiling your shot. You need to use a tripod, self-timer or a remote cable release as shots taken with longer shutter speeds are more prone to shake. Using the camera's mirror lock-up can also help with this.

 

 

3. Ice And Frozen Falls

Unless we have a week or more of very cold weather it's unlikely an entire lake will freeze. However, do look out for icicles that have formed on or overhanging grasses and ledges. If you can, position yourself so they are set against a dark background so the icicles stand out. As mentioned above, create contrast with slow shutter speeds and set flowing, smooth water against frozen edges. Also, as John Gravett suggests, 'lookout for crystal-like caps over rocks, icy stalagmites on grass, or chandelier-like structures on large waterfalls'.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to mikeuk (Day 7 - Winter Silhouettes)

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

'New'

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Day 2

Close-Up Outdoor

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Day 3

'Learn'

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  Day 4

Sport

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Day 5

Black & White Landscape

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Day 6

Sunrise Landscapes

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Day 8

Winter Wildlife

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Day 9

Long Shutter Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Debmercury (Day 20 - Patterns).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 18

'Three'

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Day 19

Statue

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Day 21

Journey

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  Day 22

Night

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Day 23

Still Life

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Day 24

Rain

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

A selection of our 'POTW' winners from 2025.

 

Our generous 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) supporter, Samsung, has kindly offered to award one of our 2025 POTW winners a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield as the prize for the accolade of Photo of the Year 2025 Award.

Which photo deserves the bonus prize and the 'Photo of the Year' title? We need your help to decide!

Until the end of January 2026, you can vote by hitting the 'like' button on your favorite 2025 POTW images in our Photo of the Year 2025 forum.

Start selecting your favourites using the 'like' button now!

Once the closing date is reached, the ePHOTOzine team will count up the 'likes,' and our 'Photo of the Year' winner will be announced.

We look forward to seeing how you all vote!

When creatively playing with focus, having out of focus areas that are the main focal point rather than having a sharp, in focus point of interest can add more intrigue and interest to a shot. You can also use out of focus foregrounds as frames, to guide the eye through the shot or throw sharpness entirely out of the window and create something much more abstract with your out of focus shots. But to do this you first have to know how you can control it then execute it in a way that doesn't make it look like something you did by mistake. 
 

How Do I Control What's In Focus? The easiest way is with aperture priority as you can change the size of the aperture to bring more or less into focus. If your camera struggles to focus where you want it to in auto-focus, use focus lock to get the image you want rather than taking a photo the camera thinks is right.

The elements can help you make more creative shots too as fog / mist can help soften scenes as long range images gradually lose contrast and far objects will disappear or appear as silhouettes. You can also try shooting through things. With a wide enough aperture and a close shooting distance they will add an extra level of out of focus interest to your shot.
  Portraits We are always told that sharp portraits with backgrounds thrown out of focus are what work but there are times when a little blur can go a long way. It can work well when you're trying to create the feel of a candid, reportage style shot rather than something that's posed and set up. It can also add a little romanticism and mystery to a shot. Indoors, making your subject a little less sharp can work in the studio too as Rossella Vanon explains: "I personally love shooting portraits by using a very big aperture and blurring the whole background and part of the subject too. It gives a very simple, creative twist to the picture and I would definitely recommend it."
  Same Shot Different Message A simple change in focus will not only change the main focal point of your shot but can change the message too. The two shots here are of the same two people but the first you're left wondering what the women in the foreground is looking at and thinking while the second shot is all about the subject in the background of the shot. 




Out On The Town Blurry backgrounds shouldn't be forgotten altogether but instead of throwing something that's usually seen as secondary out of focus, step further back from what you're photographing and throw the, what others would consider to be the main point of interest, out of focus. This can work well with landmarks, particularly in cities where you can use tourists taking photos of the landmark or even artists as your main point of focus. Do remember you need the right angle and interesting, contrasting elements for this to work successfully, though.

On rainy days, shoot through windows that have water running down them, blurring what's on the outside or use the ripples of a puddle to shoot a more abstract shot of city lights at night.
  Foreground Frames Frames are a great tool for guiding the eye to what's important in the shot but they don't always have to be obvious, frame – like objects such as windows for the shot to work. Some out of focus foreground detail such as foliage, grass, branches or even fabrics and plastic will add another level of interest as well as act as a guide for the eye to your subject. Make sure you're close to your foreground detail and use a wide enough aperture to throw it out of focus otherwise it won't blur and will pull attention away from your main subject. Auto focus may want to focus on what's in the foreground rather than the background so switch to manual if this happens.
  All Blurry If you're trying to create an abstract shot where everything is soft, you need a subject that's colourful and has interesting shapes and lines otherwise your shot won't have the impact you first intended it to have.
  Zoom, Zoom, Zoom This technique is more about having an image that's not sharp rather than focusing but still, it gives you an interesting result that shows sharp isn't always best. To get it right you need to set the zoom to either the short or long end of the focal length range, open the shutter, wait for a while then in one, smooth, quite quick movement, zoom out. By pausing at the start your subject will have a little definition before the blur kicks in. Fit a neutral density filter or a polarising filter if you can't get a slow enough shutter speed and meter from your main focus point. Make sure you have a low ISO set and switch to a small aperture to get the slower shutter speed that's needed.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

There are many cameras that are now compatible with electronic viewfinders and they're an accessory that can become particularly useful when certain situations arise. With this in mind, here are three situations where an electronic viewfinder will come in helpful:

 

In Bright Light

When it's really bright, or the sun is shining straight onto the back of your camera, it can be really difficult to see anything on the screen, even if you up the brightness level. This is where the electronic viewfinder comes in, as you'll be able to see the scene perfectly clearly when you look through it, eliminating any glare getting in the way of composing your shot. 

 

 

Help Frame The Image

Sometimes, looking at the scene away from the camera slightly on the screen can result in a composure that's not so tidy. By using an electronic viewfinder, you can make sure everything you want is in the shot, and nothing you don't want creeps in thanks to the field of view they present. Sometimes, looking through the viewfinder and moving your camera around will allow you to discover new viewpoints that you wouldn't have thought of capturing before, too. 

 

Help To Stabilise Your Camera

Using the viewfinder can sometimes help you to stabilise the camera a bit more if using a tripod isn't an option. Holding the camera up to your eye while still holding the camera with two hands gives you three points of contact, helping to keep your image shake free. Plus, as mentioned earlier, this will help you to clearly compose your images too without getting distracted by what's around you.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

ePHOTOzine is happy to announce the winners of the 2025 Christmas Prize Draw giveaway!

 

Congratulations to all the winners, and thank you again to our kind sponsors.

 

Here are the winners!

 

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Not A Lucky Winner This Time?

Upload a photo to win our 'Photo of the Week' accolade that's up for grabs weekly! Each winner of the ‘Photo of the Week’ in 2026 wins a 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter from Samsung. We also have our for-fun Daily Theme Challenge, so join in and upload your favourite themed photos.

 

At this time of year, there is a high possibility that you might get caught out by rain showers when you're out exploring. If you do experience some rain, even if you're at home nice and dry when it begins, here are some ways that you can capture rain creatively. 

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1. Macro Raindrops

Shooting the raindrops as they gather on the window can make some really pretty abstract shots. Fit a macro lens to enable you to get really up close to your subject. Take into account the background of the image as although it will be blurred by the wide aperture you use, any obvious shapes could still take away from the image. Use some card to shield any glare and reflections that may appear. You could also have a go at refraction - where a smaller version of the world outside appears in the drop.
 

2. Raindrops on flowers and plants 

After the rain shower, head outside to shoot the raindrops on the flowers and plants in the garden or at your local park. Saturated, glistening leaves on plants will be really photogenic, producing vibrant images. Shoot abstract, macro images from different angles to emphasise the water drops. 

 

 

3. Reflections

Rainfall provides an excellent opportunity for you to photograph reflections where usually there wouldn't be an opportunity. Use reflection to photograph textures of building in small puddles or symmetry images in larger ones. Puddles near flowers will allow you to capture them from a different angle, looking upwards towards the sky. Longer shutter speeds will help to create a smoother-looking puddle if it's windy.

 

4. Splashes

Using a faster shutter speed will enable you to capture the splashes from puddles as cars and bikes ride through them, or people walk through them. This might be better captured through a zoom lens to avoid splashes landing on your equipment. It might also be an idea to use a continuous shutter mode, allowing you to take several shots at once and choose the best one. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

Skylum, the creator behind the award-winning AI photo editor Luminar Neo, has introduced a new feature called AI Assistant that makes photo editing fast, smarter and more intuitive. Released in December 2025 as part of the Luminar Neo update, photographers can now use the AI Assistant to type simple text commands and get tailored editing suggestions to enhance their photos and speed up their workflow.

 

Edit Smarter Through Text Commands

Available in both Presets and Edit tabs, the AI Assistant works by analysing your image’s composition, colours, and objects, then recommends edits that fit the image. Photographers can type requests or prompts such as “Enhance this photo” or “Turn this photo black and white” to instantly see up to three suggested edits, each with previews and short descriptions. 

Once a suggestion is applied, you can fine-tune the results in the Edit tab. This cuts down on guesswork and gives you a clear starting point. The best part? You're never limited. You can keep asking for fresh suggestions as many times as you like, experimenting until you find the look that feels just right.

 

Explore Tools With Guided Assistance

The AI Assistant is not only about quick fixes. For guidance-type queries, the AI Assistant highlights the most effective tools and provides direct access to them. This makes it easier to explore Luminar Neo’s features while you’re actively editing, helping you learn the software step by step without interrupting your workflow.

 

 

Enhance and Create With AI Suggestions

AI Assistant can suggest general enhancements, help boost colours, adjust white balance, and apply toning styles directly to your photo. It also provides guidance for edits like brightening, adjusting contrast, dehazing, or using tools for creative effects such as sky replacement, adding a sunset, perspective fixes and background replacement. These suggestions help you choose the right tools and approach for each image, whether you want subtle improvements or bold transformations.

 

Integrated With Luminar Neo’s Features

AI Assistant works seamlessly with Luminar Neo’s existing tools such as Relight AI, Sky Replacement and Portrait Background Removal. This integration means you can combine automated suggestions with advanced manual controls, creating a complete editing workflow inside one platform.

 

Try Luminar Neo and AI Assistant Today

Luminar Neo’s AI Assistant is available now for all users with version 1.26.0 or later. Download the software to streamline your workflow and enjoy faster, smarter editing.

Special Offer: Use code EPHOTOZINE at checkout for 10% off and explore the entire range of Luminar Neo features today.

Get Luminar Neo Now

 

 

London Camera Exchange has announced that entries for its Photographer of the Year 2026 competition will close on 21 January 2026. Now in its third year, the contest offers a £10,000 prize fund across 14 categories, including the popular Emerging Talent section, and welcomes submissions from photographers of all levels.

All entries will appear in the official online gallery, with the public able to vote in the People’s Choice category, while other sections are judged by a panel of industry experts. Shortlisted work will be showcased at The Photography & Video Show at the NEC in Birmingham this March, where winners will receive trophies and prizes including £2,500 in LCE vouchers for the overall champion.

 

From London Camera Exchange

The deadline for the 2026 LCE Photographer of the Year competition is fast approaching. Now in its third year, the national photography contest will close at midnight on 21 January. Photographers of all levels of experience are welcome to submit their work, with 14 varied categories to choose from, and a substantial total prize fund of £10,000.

Every entry will be featured in the LCE POTY 2026 online gallery, and will be open to public voting in the ‘People’s Choice’ category. All other categories are judged by an expert panel.

Last year’s ‘Emerging Talent’ student category was won by Martina Aguirre Torres, with her stunning image entitled ‘Abigail’ (above), shot during British indie rock band The Last Dinner Party’s 2024 tour. Two £500 prizes are granted in this category – one to the photography student and one to their photography course – providing resources to support the growth of up-and-coming photographers in the future.

Judges for the 2026 contest include SheClicks founder and journalist Angela Nicholson, Chris George, content director at Future Publishing, professional portrait and travel documentary photographer Jimmy Cheng, and Lee Harasyn, managing director of LCE. Some helpful advice from the judging panel for potential entrants to this year’s competition can be found below:

 

 

Angela Nicholson commented, “As a judge, I’m drawn to images that reflect the photographer’s interpretation of a scene and their connection with the subject. I’m looking for a creative vision, thoughtful use of light, technique and composition, and photographs that feel personal, expressive and intentional.”

 

 

Jimmy Cheng remarked, “Aside from technical brilliance, I will be looking for images that express emotions and creative presentation.”

 

 

Chris George added, "It was winning a photo competition that spurred my interest in photography and then taking it up as a career, so I love the chance to judge contests myself. I am always on the lookout for a shot I haven't seen before – or an image taken way better than similar ones I have seen in the past.”

 

 

Lee Harasyn said, “I’m naturally drawn to great technique, but sometimes a photographer can capture an image so powerful that this becomes irrelevant. The best photos connect with the viewer – and that’s what I’m hoping to find.”

Winners will receive a share of the £10,000 prize pot and an impressive trophy, presented at The Photography & Video Show at the NEC in Birmingham (March 2026). The overall winner will be awarded £2,500 in LCE vouchers to spend on products of their choice. All shortlisted images will be displayed in a prominent exhibition space at the NEC and included in a special edition commemorative book.

LCE POTY 2026 is supported by leading photo industry brands including headline sponsors Canon, Fujifilm and OM System, as well as partners Lexar, Nikon and Sony, and affiliates Cewe and Sigma.

The competition is open to photographers aged 18 and over. Entries will be accepted from photographers worldwide, however, prizes will only be awarded to UK residents. 

 

LCE Photographer of the Year 2026 categories:

• Action
• After Dark
• Birds
• Creative
• Emerging Talent
• Events
• Landscape
• Macro
• People’s Choice
• Pets
• Portrait
• Street
• Travel
• Wildlife

 

Entries can be submitted online or in person at any of the 26 London Camera Exchange stores.

For full details, including terms, conditions, rules and FAQs, please visit the competition website.

 

 

                                                                                                                           

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Therese Asplund winning image.

 

The Society of Photographers is thrilled to reveal the winners of the prestigious 2025 Photographer of the Year awards, proudly sponsored by Loxley Colour.

Therese Asplund has been crowned Photographer of the Year, an accolade that celebrates outstanding photographic talent and creativity.

The 2025 Monthly Image Competition attracted an impressive 5,725 submissions across 28 categories, showcasing the remarkable diversity and skill of our talented membership. Gold Award-winning images from each category were shortlisted, with the best of the best selected for this year’s top honours.

 

Judges’ Comments

“Demonstrating outstanding skill, narrative depth, and execution, this bold and distinctive image emerged as a clear standout and generated animated discussion among the judges.”

 

For full details on The Society of Photographers - Photographer of the Year Awards please check out the website: https://thesocieties.net/the-society-of-photographers-photographer-of-the-year-2025/

 

2nd Place Photographer of the Year 2025 was awarded to Cecile Stuedal Norway from Finnmark, Norway.

 

3rd Place Photographer of the Year 2025 was awarded to Terry Donnelly from England, UK.

 

Colin Jones, The Society of Photographers’ CEO and Terrie Jones The Society of Photographers’ Personal Development Manager presenting Therese the Photographer of the Year Award.

 

For more information, please visit the The Society of Photographers' website.

 

People and cultures category winner and overall winner: ‘Kartika Vrata’ by Tanveer Rohan

 

The winners of the 2025/2026 Penda Travel Photography Competition have been announced, showcasing exceptional images from photographers around the world. The winning entries feature colorful cultural portraits, dramatic wildlife encounters, and breathtaking landscapes that capture the beauty and diversity of our planet. Judges selected images that tell compelling visual stories, with the overall winner earning a place on a Botswana Photo Safari. This year's competition highlights the power of travel photography to inspire wanderlust and forge connections between people, places, and nature.

 

From Penda Photo Tours

London, UK & Cape Town, South Africa — The winners of the 2025/2026 Penda Travel Photography Competition have been announced — showcasing breathtaking imagery that captures the heart of travel, culture, wildlife and landscapes from around the world. The annual competition attracted entries from talented photographers across the globe, with judges selecting standout images that tell powerful visual stories of place, people and nature.

 

Top Honours and Standout Winners

 

Overall & People & Cultures Category Winner
‘Kartika Vrata’ by Tanveer Rohan — A dynamic and richly composed image that immerses viewers in vibrant colours and cultural expression. Tanveer’s work also secured the overall competition title, earning a coveted place on the Botswana Photo Safari.

 

2nd Place — People & Cultures
‘Circles of Life’ by Pranab Basak — Celebrated for its compelling narrative and visual harmony.

 

Wildlife category winner: ‘Lioness Eyes Behind Birds’ by Willem Kruger

 

Wildlife Category Winner
‘Lioness Eyes Behind Birds’ by Willem Kruger — A layered and evocative capture combining wildlife behavior with artistic depth.

 

2nd Place — Wildlife
‘Life Hangs by a Thread’ by Xiaoping Lin — Recognised for its remarkable moment and technical skill.

 

Landscape Category Winner
‘Money Tree’ by Xu Zhang — Praised for its unique viewpoint and visual balance.

 

Landscape category second place: ‘Bozzhira’ by Galip Cetiner

 

2nd Place — Landscape
‘Bozzhira’ by Galip Cetiner — Awarded for its dramatic light and colour composition.

 

Celebrating Visual Storytelling that Transcends Borders

The judging panel, comprising leading professional photographers and visual storytellers, chose winners based on creative strength, technical excellence, and the ability of each image to communicate a unique travel story. These powerful photographs reflect both diverse cultures and spectacular natural environments, reinforcing the role of photography in inspiring exploration and connection to places beyond our own.

The overall competition winner now joins a select group of photographers for an exclusive Botswana Photo Safari, an immersive experience in one of Africa’s most remarkable wildlife landscapes.

 

About the Penda Travel Photography Competition

The Penda Travel Photography Competition celebrates visual storytelling from around the world and welcomes entries from photographers of all backgrounds. Through multiple categories:  People & Cultures, Wildlife and Landscape, Penda supports creative expression and invites photographers to share their vision of the world’s beauty and diversity.

For more information and to view the winning images, visit: https://www.pendaphototours.com/blog/meet-the-winners-of-our-travel-photography-competition/

 

About Penda Photo Tours

Penda Photo Tours creates photography-focused travel experiences designed by photographers for photographers. Their trips are built around photography excellence, guiding participants to the right place at the right time with small, expert-led groups and professional photographic instruction. From wildlife safaris to cultural explorations and landscape workshops, Penda trips blend travel expertise with artistic growth, all grounded in ethical and respectful engagement with people, wildlife and environments. Penda Photo Tours is part of the Impact Travel Group.

 

 

This step-by-step guide will give you a great basic introduction to the world of still life photography so if you're new to the subject, or are short on time, this could be the perfect place to start. 

 

1. Backgrounds

Keep it simple! Plain, crease-free backgrounds are a good place to start then you can always add a few extra bits of fabric or scarves, draping them over the background or table if necessary. White or coloured card/paper make good backgrounds or you could even use a plain wall. 
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2. Composition

Don't rush setting the scene, take your time to make sure it looks right, moving objects around until you can get the best composition you can. Think about it in terms of a triangle that are higher at one end and taper off. Use items that differ in size, colour and add different textures to your shot. Try moving your camera around too as just moving it a few inches to either side might make all the difference to the shot. Don't forget the photographic basics such as the rule of thirds, using negative space and guiding the eye.

You may find it easier to start out photographing just one object and avoid shiny items such as glass and metal to start as these can be trickier to capture. After a while, try introducing more items and as mentioned above, play around with different textures, colours and items to see what interesting set-ups you can create. Don't be afraid to experiment; just because plenty of other people photograph flowers etc. doesn't necessarily mean you have to.  
 

3. Support

A tripod is good - especially if you're using slower shutter speeds, however, it's not always an essential piece of kit. Having said that, putting a camera on a tripod does keep your hands free to adjust your set-up and to also control the light with a reflector. If you do use a tripod, don't forget to adjust its position from time-to-time. Lower it, raise it up and move it to one side just to see if you can capture a better shot. 

 

4. Lighting

If you want to keep things simple, just use one light. A studio light is fine but a high-powered standard energy-saving bulb in a lamp is great too as it produces a soft light.  Experiment with the position of your light as moving it just a little can add extra depth and interest to your shots. 

A tip that came from an ePHOTOzine member is to 'remove the lampshade, cut a hole in the side of a Pringles tube - imagine you're cutting doors in the tube – cut a T-shape and then fold back the 'doors' which help direct the light. Pop that over the top and you get nice directional light (cut a hole in the Pringles tube lid and attach that to the light fitting)'.

You can use a reflector (try making one out of foil if you don't own one) to bounce extra light into the shot if needs be.

If you don't want to use artificial light just set-up near a window and use a reflector to light the side of your subject the natural light doesn't reach. If you find the light's a little too strong you can use blinds as diffusers (so long as they're not coloured at this will create a colour cast) or simply pin a sheet up. 

  5. Focus

Stopping down the lens will increase the depth of field in your shot to get everything in focus but this may result in slower shutter speeds so have your tripod to hand. Take a few images with different focus points too. Invariably just one shot is fine but it's handy to have the others in case you want to combine the best bits from each. Ensure your images are sharp and as your subjects won't be moving or get bored, there's no real excuse for capturing blurry images. Take your time, check the set-up, check the frame and always check your shot on screen after you've captured it.    

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

Lens manufacturer Meike has announced the release of the SE Series 85mm f/1.8 Mark II full-frame autofocus STM lens for Canon EF mount, priced at $229.99 USD.

The new lens improves on the earlier Mark I version with reduced chromatic aberration, faster autofocus, enhanced image quality, and a closer minimum focusing distance of 0.65m.

 

Meike SE Series 85mm f/1.8 Mark II Specs:

• Model: EF 85mmF1.8 STM SE II
• Focal Length: 85mm
• Format: Full Frame
• Aperture Range: F1.8–F16
• Filter Thread: 62mm
• Diaphragm Blades: 11
• Minimum Focus Distance: 0.65m
• Lens Construction: 11 elements in 7 groups
• Angle of View (Full Frame): Diagonal 27.8°, Horizontal 23.4°, Vertical 10.8°
• Angle of View (APS-C): Diagonal 18.67°, Horizontal 15.53°, Vertical 10.38°
• Weight: about 346g

For more information, visit the Meike website where the lens is now available to purchase.

 

  1. Do Your Research

Knowing what wildlife will appear where and when will save you time and stop you walking around for a shot you may never find. Knowing what they eat is also important as, for example, it can mean you end up capturing a shot of a Blackbird rather than a Blue Tit in your garden.

 

Make sure you know how your camera and any other gear you have out with you works before you're outside in your hide. It may sound like a daft statement but knowing how to quickly adjust a setting can make all the difference when you only have a few seconds to take a shot.

2. Feed The Birds

Winter can be hard work for wildlife as they have to work harder to find food sources, but this can make them slightly easier to track down. In nature reserves, look for places you can set up near hedgerows used for feeding and back home you can set up your own feeders to attract birds who are still around for the winter months. Don't just suddenly start feeding them then stop once you have your images though.

Shots of birds on feeders are good but for more natural-looking images try placing perches such as branches or even a spade near the feeder which they can land on before going for the food. You can also put nuts, berries, seeds and fat balls in holes and cracks in trees to attract them to land.
 

3. Be Patient And Ready

Animals and birds scare easy so don't think you can just head outside, get your camera out and start shooting. Nature reserves usually have hides dotted around you can use and when you're out in the field or in your own garden, set up a portable hide. Once your hide is up, be prepared to wait a while before any wildlife comes your way as it'll take them some time to realise you're not a threat. Although in nature reserves and parks where wildlife is more used to human contact you probably won't have to wait quite as long. Don't make any sudden movements and take some time to just look at the scene around you instead of getting your camera out straight away. By doing so your subject is more likely to return and you don't have to spend as much time out in the cold.

If you're working at home and have a window you can shoot from, set up inside and either shoot through the glass (make sure you're close up to the windowpane to cut down on reflections) or open up the window if you can. You can then stay warm with the heating on and still get the wildlife shots you're looking for.
 

4. Gear Choices 

Longer lenses (400mm is a good place to start) are generally a must, however, you can use slightly shorter lenses it just means you have to work harder at getting closer to your subject. When using longer lenses and sitting, waiting for long periods of time you don't want to be holding your camera so take your tripod out with you. If you're out walking a monopod is a worthwhile consideration as they're easier to manoeuvre, however, a tripod will work just fine if you don't own one. Of course, if you can remotely trigger your camera via your Smart Phone or other trigger devices, you won't need a lens that's quite as long. 

 

5. Be Quick

Wildlife doesn't hang around for long and some, such as hares, move quickly so quick shutter speeds are needed to freeze movement and to capture skittish behaviour. If your shutter speed is too low there's a chance your shot will have blur in it as they move quicker than you think, especially birds who quickly turn their heads into different positions. To get the quicker shutter speeds you'll most likely need to crank up the ISO but as most digital cameras now cope with ISOs up and beyond 800 without noise becoming too much of an issue, you shouldn't have any problems with doing that.

6. Backgrounds And Composition

No matter where you're shooting your wildlife shots you need to have a good look around the viewfinder to make sure there's nothing in the background that will distract the viewer. Throwing the background out of focus can look great, however, this can cause parts of your subject, particularly when working with small subjects such as birds, to also go out of focus. If this happens try using a slightly smaller aperture as getting the subject sharp is what's more important.

You may have to work quickly but this doesn't mean you should forget about composition altogether. Do give your subject space and try not to capture them when looking out of frame as your viewer will follow their gaze and move their eyes out of shot. Do shoot while they're in different positions too as you may find a side profile shot works much better than one where they are head-on, for example.
 

7. Be At Their Angle

A low position gets you down to the animal's level and can help avoid messy backgrounds. Out in the field, this could mean laying on the ground to get a shot of a squirrel foresting for food and in your garden, you could end up placing feeders lower than you first thought so your lens lines up with them more easily.
 

 

 

8. Shoot When It Snow

Not that many places in the UK have had much snow as of yet but when a bit of the white stuff does fall it gives photographers the chance to shoot against clutter-free backgrounds that really create the essence of winter. Snow also gives you the chance to find tracks wildlife have left so find a well-trodden path and set up nearby. Dawn and dusk are good times to be out but do wrap up warm and take a head torch with you so you can see what you're doing. Pay attention to where the wind is blowing too as wildlife are good at picking up scents.

Do be aware that snow can confuse your camera and you can end up with shots that are underexposed. Keep checking your histogram to make sure the exposure's OK and use exposure compensation if needs be to brighten your shot.

9. Popular Areas

There are places in the UK and right around the world that are more popular than others for wildlife photography. There's nothing wrong with visiting these popular places but please respect the wildlife and don't overcrowd them. You may also want to spend some time finding places you can shoot in closer to home as not only do they stand the chance of not being as popular, you don't have as far to travel which means you can spend longer brushing up on your technique rather than travelling.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

The nights are still rather long at the moment in the UK and with the sun setting so early, now's the perfect time to try your hand at night photography as you don't have to be out that late to capture some cracking images. Plus, if you time it with rush-hour, you can use long exposures to shoot some cracking light trails. 

 

1. Get The Right Accessories

As we are dealing with longer shutter speeds, a tripod is an essential piece of equipment if we want our images to be sharp. Do remember that traffic can cause a small amount of movement and don't forget to turn off the image stabilisation function as when using longer exposure times and a tripod, this function can actually cause shake which will result in a blurry image. A cable or wireless (IR) remote is useful but you can also use your camera's self-timer to start the exposure to reduce shake.
 

2. Camera & Lens Options 

The type of camera you use isn't all that important as it's your own creativity that'll create a good image. However, a DSLR or other type of camera that offers manual control will make the task easier. The type of lenses you use for night photography will change depending on what you want to capture. If you like pictures of street views, use a wide-angle lens, however, if you want to focus on just parts/details of the street use a zoom lens between 28 - 200mm. Having said that, you'll probably find a wide-angle lens to be most useful. 
 

3. Metering & Exposure Time Tips 

Exposure times aren't set in stone and it's worth trying different shutters speeds. Shooting with spot metering can help exposure levels and I find working in manual tends to produce better results. If you have the time, photograph the same scene with various exposure times and look through them to see which has produced the best results. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

4. Composition Is Key

Consider changing to a portrait orientation to help exaggerate the height of buildings and do take your time when composing your shots at night as it can be harder to see small details through the viewfinder due to the lower light levels. 

 

5. Panning With Traffic 

Traffic is a popular subject at night as it gives photographers the chance to be particularly creative when combined with a bit of panning. When panning, try to follow the subject with your camera/eye then hit the shutter button in the middle of the pan and continue the smooth movement through to the other side. It's similar to swinging a baseball bat, hitting the ball at the middle of the swing and following through.

Although you can pan hand-held a tripod can be very useful when panning at night as the low light levels mean you can experiment with slower shutter speeds. If you want a little more of the shot to be sharp you can add a 'pop' of flash to freeze the movement of your subject.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

Top Gear and Preparation Tips for Starting Out in Travel Photography

 

 

Embarking on a journey into travel photography is more than just taking pictures in exotic locations—it's about capturing stories, understanding cultures, and being equipped with the right tools and mindset. When exploring vibrant markets, remote landscapes, and bustling cities, having the best gear for travel photography and being well-prepared can significantly impact your results.

In this guide, we'll cover essential travel photography gear, practical tips for beginners, and tricks to maintain your equipment while on the move.

 

 

Explore DepositPhotos for licensed travel photos for your creative projects

 

How to prepare for a travel photography job as a beginner creator

 

Landing your first travel photography job can be both exciting and overwhelming. The key lies in preparation, consistency, and adaptability.

 

Research your destination

Before heading to popular travel photography hotspots, learn about the local culture, climate, and accessibility. Understand the best times for natural lighting and golden hour shots, and what locations might be sensitive to photography.

Consider these aspects:

• Seasonal light patterns' impact on landscapes;
• Local festivals showcasing vibrant traditions;
• Off-the-beaten-path locations for authentic storytelling;
• Cultural taboos to respect while photographing people;
• Optimal times for capturing iconic landmarks;
• Local markets and their unique visual elements.

 

Build a shot list

A shot list will guide your creative process and show professionalism, especially if you're handling commissioned travel photography jobs. Consider these categories to enhance your visual storytelling:

• Dawn patrol. Early morning cityscapes;
• Local artisans. Traditional craftsmanship;
• Hidden gems. Lesser-known locations;
• Night scenes. Vibrant after-dark moments;
• Architectural contrasts. Old meets new;
• Cultural rituals. Unique local traditions;
• Street food. Culinary experiences.

A well-planned list serves as your visual roadmap, ensuring you capture key moments while allocating time for spontaneity.

 

Check your legal and logistical needs

Ensure you have travel documents, photography permits, and insurance coverage for health and travel photography gear. Investigate permit requirements for protected areas and landmarks. Secure necessary visas, especially for commercial work. Familiarize yourself with local photography laws and cultural sensitivities. Consider these crucial aspects:

• Research drone regulations and no-fly zones;
• Obtain model releases for portrait subjects;
• Respect copyright laws for artwork and performances;
• Review customs regulations for equipment transport;
• Understand privacy laws in public spaces;
• Check restrictions on tripod use in crowded areas;
• Be aware of photography bans in religious sites.

 

 

The best gear for travel photography

 

Choosing the best gear for travel photography means balancing performance, durability, and portability. Here's a breakdown of what you should consider packing as a beginner:

 

Best cameras for travel photography

Compact mirrorless cameras are now a top choice among professional and beginner photographers. They offer compact size without sacrificing professional features. Here are a few standout options:

1. Fujifilm X-T5. Lightweight with excellent image quality and film simulation features.
2. Sony Alpha a7 IV. A full-frame powerhouse with advanced autofocus and video capabilities.
3. Canon EOS R8. A strong entry-level full-frame option for high-resolution travel shots.

These are among the best cameras for travel photography because they offer superior image quality while remaining compact enough for daily travel.

 

Versatile lenses

For beginners, a versatile 24–70 mm f/2.8 zoom covers everything from wide-angle vistas to portraits, while a fast 35 mm f/1.8 prime excels in low-light and street scenes. As your skills (and itinerary) expand, build a travel-ready lens kit that balances scope and portability: a 16–35 mm wide-angle for landscapes and architecture, the trusty 24–70 mm for everyday flexibility, and a 70–200 mm telephoto zoom to bring distant wildlife or compressed cityscapes closer.

To round out your creative arsenal, you might also pack:

• Ultra-wide fisheye—dramatic, curving distortions for unique perspectives;
• Macro lens—crisp, close-up detail of flora, food, or textures;
• Tilt-shift lens—perspective correction and miniature effects in urban settings;
• Fast prime—wide aperture for atmospheric, low-light street shots;
• All-in-one zoom (18–300 mm)—space-saving versatility when you can carry only one lens.

 

Accessories to enhance workflow

Enhance your travel photography workflow with these essential accessories:

• Versatile camera bag. Protect gear and organize efficiently;
• Lightweight tripod. Ensure stability for sharp images;
• High-capacity memory cards. Capture more without interruption;
• Spare batteries. Extend shooting time in remote locations;
• Portable hard drive. Backup photos securely on-the-go;
• Remote shutter release. Minimize camera shake for crisp shots;
• Polarizing filter. Reduce glare and enhance colors;
• Cleaning kit. Maintain equipment for optimal performance.

 

 

How to take care of your travel photography gear during trips

 

Protecting your investment in travel photography gear is essential, especially when facing varied climates and rugged terrains.

 

Weatherproof your equipment

Protect your gear from the elements with quality rain covers and dust-proof cases. While weather-sealed cameras like the Canon 5D Mark IV offer protection, caution is still necessary. Consider these tips:

• Use silica gel packets to combat humidity;
• Wrap gear in microfiber cloths for added protection;
• Acclimate equipment gradually in temperature extremes;
• Keep spare dry bags for sudden weather changes;
• Invest in waterproof camera straps for added security.

 

Routine cleaning

Maintaining your travel photography gear requires a consistent cleaning routine. Implement these techniques for optimal performance:

• Use microfiber cloths to gently remove smudges from lenses;
• Dislodge dust from sensors with a rocket blower;
• Clean camera bodies carefully, avoiding buttons;
• Apply lens cleaner sparingly for stubborn marks;
• Inspect and clean lens contacts for reliable connections.

 

Smart packing and transport

Invest in a padded camera bag to shield your gear from impacts. Always carry essential equipment as hand luggage when flying. Avoid exposing gear to extreme temperatures and use hotel safes for secure storage during exploration.

 

Conclusion

Starting a career or hobby in travel photography demands more than a love for travel and visuals—it requires the right gear, thoughtful preparation, and ongoing care. From choosing the best cameras for travel photography to discovering new travel photography hotspots, every step of your journey adds to your visual storytelling toolbox. As you land more travel photography jobs, this article's foundational habits will continue to support your success.