DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

Instead of focusing on a building as a whole, you can pick out detail such as clock faces, windows, gargoyles and other interesting aspects. However, doing so can be a bit tricky as unless you have an incredibly tall set of ladders, a lot can be out of reach but there are quite a few ways you can get around this. 

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]  

1. What's In Your Kit Bag?

To get close to detail that's high-up on buildings, you're going to need a zoom lens that has a slightly longer reach. If you're a compact user you'll still be able to capture frame-filling shots if your camera features a longer zoom (20x or above would be good). Having a camera with a vari-angle LCD screen can make it easier to frame your shot when working with a tripod at its maximum height or when you're working hand-held with your arms up above you but it's not an essential feature. 
 

2. Look For Detail 

Most pictures you see of churches, cathedrals and other tall structures show the whole, impressive structure but by cropping in tightly you can highlight the fantastic repetitive detail, make an interesting pattern and shoot detail you don't always notice in the wider shots.

Once you begin to search you'll be surprised at the amount of detail you'll be able to fill your frame with. Of course, there's gargoyles, clocks, windows, spires, sundials and weather vanes, but a little closer to the ground you'll find stone carvings present and sometimes intricate detailed wood carvings on the exterior walls around doorways and above windows.

Filling the frame with repeating patterns such as brickwork or tiles on a roof can create interesting abstract shots. Just fill your frame, watch your shutter speeds if you're working hand-held and make sure you're focusing accurately as blur really doesn't work in this type of shot.

 

3. Roof Access? 

If you can get on the roof or balcony, as well as gaining you a great viewpoint of the city you can often find interesting statues/gargoyles projecting out from the walls. As they don't move they're an easy target and most are so beautifully sculptured that several varied photographs can be taken. However, as not all buildings give you access to their roof, you'll probably end up shooting from the ground where you'll need to use the long reach of your telephoto or zoom lens to bring the detail to you.

 

 

 

4. Magnification 

The problem you have with using lenses with a longer reach is that they magnify objects, which is of course what you want, but this does mean that even the tiniest of movements can create a large amount of blur in your photograph so make sure you have a tripod and stick to quicker shutter speeds when possible. Using a lens which features Vibration Reduction (VR) will further minimise shake. If you're shooting detail such as weather vanes where the sky will be your background fit a polarizer to darken a blue sky and give more contrast to the shot.

 

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Creators are constantly searching for tools that can keep up with the demand for engaging visuals without the steep learning curve of professional editing software. Enter Pollo AI, a rapidly rising star in the global AI landscape that has cracked the code: delivering viral-ready videos in one click—with no editing required.

This article explores why Pollo AI has become an indispensable tool for millions, breaking down its key features and how it simplifies professional AI creation into one seamless experience.

 

What Is Pollo AI?

 

 

Pollo AI is an all-in-one AI visual creation powerhouse designed to democratize high-quality video production. It empowers users to generate viral-worthy videos instantly, eliminating the need for timeline editing, color grading, or complex transitions. 

It brings together AI video generators, image generators, advanced utility tools, cutting-edge models, and trending effects under one roof.

Unlike other platforms that feel cluttered with confusing interfaces and steep learning curves, Pollo AI offers a smooth, streamlined workflow that anyone can master in minutes.

This relentless focus on user experience has fueled explosive growth. Within just 7 months of its launch, Pollo AI has attracted over 4 million monthly active users, successfully raised $14 million in funding, and secured its place as a top-five AI video creation platform worldwide.

This trajectory signals strong investor confidence and proves that the market is hungry for a tool that balances power with simplicity.

 

The Key Features That Make Pollo AI Indispensable

 

Pollo AI isn't just a single tool; it's a comprehensive suite designed to handle every aspect of modern visual creation. Here is a look at the capabilities of Pollo AI video generator that set it apart.

 

Multiple Video Generation Capabilities

Pollo AI covers the entire spectrum of video creation needs, from simple text prompts to complex musical synchronization.

• Text to Video AI: Transform abstract ideas into compelling visual narratives. Simply type a description of what you want to see, and Pollo AI’s advanced models will generate high-fidelity video content with appropriate motion, timing, and visual coherence.
• Image to Video AI: Breathe life into static imagery. This tool is perfect for transforming product photos, digital art, or personal portraits into engaging cinematic videos. It adds dynamic motion to stills without requiring any animation skills.
• Reference to Video: Solves the "consistency problem" in AI video. By uploading a reference image, creators can ensure that specific characters, objects, or faces remain identical across different clips—a critical feature for brand storytelling and narrative continuity.
• AI Avatar Generator: Create realistic digital humans that can "speak" any script in multiple languages. This is widely used for educational tutorials, corporate training, and sales presentations, enabling the production of professional talking-head videos without cameras, studios, or actors.
• AI Music Video Generator: Turn any audio track into a stunning visual journey. Upload your song, and Pollo AI automatically syncs dynamic visuals, effects, and transitions to the rhythm and mood of the music. It empowers artists and creators to produce music videos effortlessly.

 

Continuously Updated Multimodel Platform

One of Pollo AI's strongest advantages is its architecture. It functions as a high-performance aggregator engine that integrates the world's most advanced AI models.

 

 

Instead of being locked into a single technology, users gain access to a powerhouse selection, including:

• Video Models: Seedance 2.0, Google Veo 3, Sora 2, Kling AI, Pixverse AI, and more.
• Image Models: Seedream, Flux Kontext, Nano Banana, and other top-tier generators.

This flexibility allows users to choose the specific model that best fits their project's aesthetic—whether it's photorealism, anime style, or surrealist art—all within a single subscription.

 

100+ AI Video & Photo Effects That Go Viral

In the world of social media, trends move fast. Pollo AI ensures you never miss a beat by providing a massive library of over 100 fun and trending video and photo effects.

This includes massive internet trends like the AI kissing video effect (also known as the "hug" or "squish" effect), which has taken social media by storm. These one-click effects allow creators to add professional-grade visual flair and humor to their content instantly, significantly increasing the likelihood of their videos going viral.

 

Conclusion

 

Pollo AI stands out not just as a tool, but as a creative home for millions. Its mission is simple yet ambitious: to build a platform that enables anyone to generate viral videos in one click, with zero editing skills required. It exists to democratize creativity, giving everyone the chance to produce trending content and fully unleash their imagination through AI.

Whether you are a professional marketer needing volume, an artist needing expression, or a casual creator looking for fun, Pollo AI provides everything you need to lead the next wave of digital content.

Stop jumping between tabs and struggling with complex software. Start creating with Pollo AI today.

[SECTION]INTRODUCTION[/SECTION]

 

 

Quick Verdict

Canon has delivered what could be the ideal Hybrid Mirrorless Full-Frame camera, capable of the highest standards for both stills and video. With solid, sturdy construction, well-thought-out control layout and an extensive feature set, what's not to like?

 

Hybrid full-frame cameras have until now hovered around the 24MP mark, a point at which speed of operation and resolution meet to find a sensible compromise. This stretches now up to the 32.5MP of the Canon R6 Mark III, offering a new standard of performance. Is this a compromise that merely meets all the conflicting requirements in a no-man's-land or is it a bold new standard of performance that stretches the technical capabilities to new heights? Armed with the superb Canon RF 85mm f/1.4 VCM lens, we set forth on our voyage of discovery.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Features

First impressions are of a solid, chunky but not overly large camera body, thankfully weather resistant as we face the February rain, and weighing in at a manageable 699g with card and battery according to Canon, but actually measuring at 690g as we are using an SD card as opposed to the CFExpress Type B. If this was a video review, then the latter option would no doubt have been an advantageous choice.

The main features are detailed below, but there are some nice touches that deserve a mention. Even before the lens is attached, the protective cover for the sensor can be seen, and this is a really good idea. So many cameras leave the sensor naked and exposed when lenses are changed, so the added security offered by Canon is very welcome.

 

 

Stills/Video is selected by a small switch on the left of the top plate. On the right, we have the mode dial plus two control dials, the on/off switch and the stills and video shutter releases. The latter is separate but placed well, so that shaky starts can be better avoided.

The vari-angle screen is crisp and sharp, as is the OLED EVF. The magnification of the EVF image is only 0.76x, but it serves well enough. The image does not cause eye fatigue and gives an accurate representation of the scene.

 

 

Canon R6 Mark III Key Features

• Full frame
• IBIS up to 8.5 stops centre
• IBIS up to 7.5 stops peripheral
• 32.5MP CMOS sensor
• DIGIC X Processor
• Mechanical shutter 30s – 1/8000s
• Electronic shutter 30s – 1/16,000s
• Mechanical shutter up to 12fps
• Electronic shutter up to 40fps
• Dual pixel CMOS AF II -6.5EV to +20EV
• Metering range -3EV to +20EV
• ISO range 50-102,400
• 0.5cm OLED EVF 3.69M dots, up to 120fps refresh rate
• EVF 100% view, 0.76x
• 3” Vari-angle touch-sensitive TFT LCD monitor 1.62M dots
• Operation 0C to +40C
• WiFi, 5GHz/2.4GHz
• Bluetooth 5.1
• HDMI Type A
• E-3 remote terminal
• USB-C 3.2
• 3.5mm Mic and headphone sockets 
• Moisture and dust resistance
• 699g with battery and card
• Battery LP-E6P, approx 620 shots
• 1 SD UHS-II card slot
• 1 CFExpress Type B card slot
• 138.4 x 98.4 x 88.4mm

 

Canon R6 Mark III Handling

Although handling can be a very personal thing, Canon has impressively given us a myriad of options and possibilities to use and control the camera. There is a considerable amount of duplication, where more than one control alters a parameter. This is especially true within the extensive menus, where the top control wheel, the secondary control wheel and the rotary dial around the set button may all be utilised as we prefer. This is all fine as we simply choose the one we want to use. Dials and wheels can be reprogrammed as required and the camera can be set up to the individual photographer with ease. Spending time to set up things optimally will reap rewards in faster and more intuitive operation.

For this review, the lens control ring is set to alter ISO, the rear rotary dial is set to alter exposure compensation and the mode dial stays on Av. Aperture is controlled by the upper front dial. All the buttons do something useful. It's just a matter of learning what does what to get quick access to any features that might want regular adjustment. There is even a Colour button that gives direct access to the digital filters. 

The joystick moves the focus point, and when this is set to one point focus it can be easily relocated around the image field as required. To reset to centre, just push the joystick and it locks into centre, identified by a small dot appearing in the centre of the AF box. The joystick is well placed to avoid the point of focus being accidentally moved when the camera is being carried in one hand. There is something here that is rarely mentioned, and that is, if it is so convenient to carry the camera without a strap in the right hand, ready for instant use, then how does this work for a left-handed user? This applies to all marques, and is not singling out Canon. The only left-handed cameras I know of need us to look back at the 1950s and 1960s and makers such as Ihagee (Exakta).

In terms of what we have though, the R6 Mark III handles in a totally exemplary fashion, balancing well, operating slickly and delivering some fantastic shots. Within the Canon range, this reviewer would gravitate towards the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV in the DSLR range and this R6 Mark III in the R series mirrorless cameras, both around 30MP and offering a sensible balance between image size and speed of operation. The new camera is a pleasure to use.

 

[SECTION]PERFORMANCE[/SECTION]

Canon R6 Mark III Performance

The performance section is where we look at the image quality performance of the camera. Additional sample photos and product shots are available in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own review, photos and product ratings.
 

Canon R6 Mark III Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Lens Performance – The Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM lens provided with the camera for this review has been covered and is a truly excellent and impressive lens. There are plenty of outstanding Canon lenses that can be coupled with the R6 Mark III and will yield beautiful results. True, the L series lenses are expensive, but the camera deserves the best to take full advantage of its performance.

 

Canon R6 Mark III ISO test images Previous Next

 

ISO Performance – This is possibly the best ISO performance ever seen in any Canon body. Images are clean up to and including ISO 1600. Noise just creeps in at ISO 3200 and 6400, but even here, the structure is very tight and the integrity of the test chart boxes is maintained. ISO 12800 is still a tight grain structure, although noise is now clearly visible. ISO 25600 sees considerable noise, but again, the structure of the image is tight. Noise at ISO 51200 and 102400 is very obvious, but the box edges can still be discerned even in the darkest areas. An excellent result.

 

Canon R6 Mark III White-balance test images Previous Next

 

White Balance – There are a number of preset options for white balance, and various adjustments can be made to these. AWB has the usual options between white and ambience priority. To this we can add Daylight, Shade, Cloudy, Tungsten light, Fluorescent light, Flash, Custom and four slots for specific colour temperatures. AWB is useful for mixed lighting and general use, but to keep the colours of a scene, the other presets do a great job. Cloudy is very close to the Cloudy or 81A filters we used on film, and this setting warms portraits very attractively. Shade is perfect for those purple-hued woodland shadows and is especially effective for fungus hunting.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Digital filters Previous Next

 

Digital Filters – Interestingly, Canon has provided Scene modes on this body, despite it clearly being aimed at the advanced amateur and professional users. There is a wide selection, and these have not been shot with this review, as each setting clearly needs the specific situation to be meaningful. The settings available are Portrait, Smooth skin, Group Photo, Landscape, Panoramic shot, Sports, Kids, Panning, Close-up, Food, Night Portrait, Handheld Night Scene, HDR Backlight Control and Silent Shutter. It might be arguable that using such shortcuts doesn't end up teaching much about photography, but then it also is true that the beginner could end up with better images and this would be encouraging in itself.

More general digital filters are found in the Colour mode section of the menus. There are two groups of these and samples have been shot of all of them.

Picture Style settings are Auto, Standard, Portrait, Landscape, Fine Detail, Neutral, Faithful, Monochrome and three User Defined selections.

Colour Filters are a bit more exotic and sometimes somewhat mysterious, but we have StoryTeal&Orange, StoryMagenta, StoryBlue, PaleTeal&Orange, RetroGreen, Sepiatone, AccentRed, TastyWarm, TastyCool, BrightAmber, BrightWhite, ClearLightBlue, ClearPurple and ClearAmber.

 

Video –  We might expect a Canon Hybrid body to have a good set of video options:

• Open gate recording up to 30fps
• DCI 7K RAW up to 60fps
• 4K UHD up to 120fps
• 2K up to 180fps
• FHD up to 180fps
• Canon log 2, 3, HDR PQ and Canon 709
• Time lapse up to 4K 30fps

Quality of impromptu filming is excellent and focus tracks well. Stability is also excellent, and although a close look at the video aspects of the camera is outside the main focus of this review, it's clear that there is great potential for some convincing quality footage.

 

[SECTION]VERDICT[/SECTION]

 

 

Value For Money

The [AMUK]Canon R6 Mark III|Canon+R6+Mark+III[/AMUK] is priced at £2799.

To put this in perspective, let's look at a range of marques and prices:

Canon 

• [AMUK]R6 II|Canon+R6+II[/AMUK], £2199
• [AMUK]R5 II|Canon+R5+II[/AMUK], £4399
• [AMUK]R5|Canon+R5[/AMUK], £3149

Nikon

• [AMUK]Z6 III|Nikon+Z6+III[/AMUK], £2499
• [AMUK]Z7 II|Nikon+Z7+II[/AMUK], £2499
• [AMUK]Zf|Nikon+Zf[/AMUK], £2299

Panasonic Lumix

• [AMUK]S1R II|Panasonic+Lumix+S1R+II[/AMUK], £2999
• [AMUK]S1 IIE|Panasonic+Lumix+S1+IIE[/AMUK], £2199

Sony

• [AMUK]A7 IV|Sony+A7+IV[/AMUK], £2099
• [AMUK]A7 V|Sony+A7+V[/AMUK], £2799
• [AMUK]A7R V|Sony+A7R+V[/AMUK], £2999

These are all full frame, admittedly some rather more or less than the 32.5MP of the R6 Mark III. On that basis and its intended market place, probably the Sony A7 V is the closest competitor. Both are equally priced, so looking at lens costs, features, and handling are the factors that will separate the options out.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Verdict

This could end up being a battle of Giants as the Canon R6 Mark III pushes strongly into the full-frame hybrid camera market. There are so many great cameras, so looking at the cameras themselves is only the beginning. The lens range, the ability to use adapters to explore other ranges, and the availability or not of third-party options are all part of the bigger overall picture. The lens costs are likely to be high, as it would seem a waste to add a low-cost kit lens to a camera as fine as the R6 Mark III.

Of course, the cameras listed as possible alternatives are all very different beasts and in the end, it's down to handling and any specific requirements that the photographer may have. The R6 Mark III is certainly a terrific option, sturdy, efficient in handling and capable of the highest quality, both for stills and video. The noise control is also quite possibly the best seen so far from Canon.

Such a meeting of fine qualities leaves us with a very powerful option that is, inevitably, an Editor's Choice.

 

Canon R6 Mark III Pros

• Great images and video
• Well-thought-out control layout
• ISO performance is excellent
• Very fast and responsive AF
• Customisation options
• High-quality construction
• Moisture and dust resistance
• High-quality EVF

 

Canon R6 Mark III Cons

• Expensive
• No third-party lenses

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=5|R_performance=5|R_value=4.5|R_overall=5|A_level=5|A_text=Editor's Choice – A powerhouse of features and performance from this versatile hybrid camera|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

 

View the Canon R6 Mark III camera specs in the equipment database.

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The German image editing provider Neurapix has expanded its AI technology with a fundamental enhancement: effective immediately, the AI edits even more like a human by taking the context of the entire Lightroom collection being processed into account. The result: even more consistently edited photos.

The goal of many photographers is a cohesive look that runs throughout an entire shoot. Until now, however, editing AIs have analyzed each image individually and applied the desired style to each one separately. Neurapix's new approach also considers the other images within the project, ensuring, for example, even more consistent white balance and more uniform exposure across the entire set.

For users, almost nothing changes in terms of operation: in the Neurapix editing dialog, they can simply check the box labeled "Optimize Consistency" to activate the new AI. The feature is included in the "Neurapix Unlimited" plan. In the “Pay-per-Picture” model, as with all optional features, a maximum surcharge of 1 cent per image applies.

 

"The Best Editing Results Currently Possible"

 

"We asked ourselves: Why doesn't AI work like a human? After all, a human would look at the entire shoot and compare the images with one another," says Nils Sauder, co-founder and CEO of Neurapix. "Accordingly, we developed a completely new AI approach in order to deliver the best editing results currently possible to our customers."

The new feature becomes available automatically after updating the Neurapix plugin. The update is offered via a pop-up the next time Lightroom Classic is launched, or it can be installed manually via the Plug-in Manager.

 

About: Neurapix is a German AI start-up based in Goettingen that was founded in 2021. The company has developed an artificial intelligence that is able to learn a photographer's image editing style and apply it within Adobe Lightroom Classic. This allows photographers to have large numbers of photos edited in their own style, resulting in significant time savings of around 90%. For more information, please visit the Neurapix website.

 

We thought we'd put together a quick and easy to follow tutorial on photographing fruit and veg slices with a light source behind them which you can do indoors when it's raining outside. Why do this? Well, the bright light combined with a single or even a few slices of fruit or vegetable can produce an interesting 'arty' style photograph that's really easy to capture at home. 
 

1. Gear You'll Need 

As well as a camera and a macro lens with a short focal length you'll need a lightbox. If you don't own one, you can create one with a clear surface, a light source that can sit under it and something to diffuse the light such as muslin or tracing paper.

You'll also need a tripod, ideally one that has a centre column that can be twisted upside down or horizontally. By using a tripod that can do this you'll be able to work with the centre column rotated so your camera faces down onto the lightbox. This means your hands are kept free for chopping and adjusting fruit/veg slices, plus you can get closer to your subject. 

Don't forget your fruit and veg! Obvious choices are kiwi as the seeds produce interesting patterns but half-circles of onion, oranges, cucumbers and limes work well too. Have a think about how a particular fruit or vegetable may look when sliced up and placed on a lightbox. You shouldn't need to spend much money, plus you can eat any left-over specimens at the end!

  2. Preparation Is Key

 

Get your chopping board out and cut thin slices from your fruit/vegetable. Make sure you cut even slices so when the light passes through, you won't have one part that's darker than the other. Use a clean, sharp knife to slice your fruit/vegetable then place the slice on the lightbox.

Where possible, work away from windows, turn off your house lights and you may want to close the curtains/blinds to limit the amount of light coming in if it's bright outside. 

  3. Placement & Design 

If you're using multiple slices or various fruits/vegetables think about your composition. Repetition and patterns always work well and for some reason, working with odd items gives you a shot that's more pleasing to the eye. This doesn't mean you can't work with even numbers as they can work but the rule of odds is something you should just keep in mind.

  4. Setting Up The Shot

1. As with most close-up work, it's best to switch from auto focus to manual to stop your lens 'searching'. 
2. Take a test shot and check the exposure as the bright light may fool your camera into underexposing. If this happens, switching to a + exposure compensation should fix the problem or you can work in manual if you prefer.
3. You want the background to be bright but not so bright that you can't see the shapes and patterns in the segment of fruit or vegetable you're working with.
4. Good depth of field is needed and if you find problems with camera shake, switch your self-timer on so you have time to move away from the camera before the exposure's captured.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition

Photo by Daniel Bell.      Why this style of photography works is because, generally, people feel more relaxed out of a studio environment which will produce better photos. Throw a bit of fun into the mix and you'll soon have a collection of images that are unique and interesting.  [HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]  1. Gear Advice 

For environmental portraits, a 14-24mm lens can work well but a go-to lens popular with many photographers is a 70-200mm, which can produce great perspective at the right focal length. When working with families, particularly when shooting a little more candidly, natural light works well but do pack essential lighting accessories such as a reflector. If you find you're out during the middle part of the day, particularly on a sunny day, find shade you can shoot in to produce a more even exposure. 
 

2. Conversation Is Key 

Even if you know the people you are photographing it's still important to talk to them during the shoot as direction and encouragement will always be welcomed. Suggest poses and always get your 'money shots' in the bag early so you can have more fun and also shoot more candidly later on. Good shots to ensure you capture are images of the group as well as shots with tighter framing of individuals or one or two family members together.

Direction doesn't have to come via your voice either. You could kick a ball into a particularly good patch of light or ask children to play with toys in a certain part of the landscape you're working in. Remember that children do have a short attention span so make the posing part of the shoot as quick as possible then leave them to play, capturing candids with your camera as they do. 
 

3. Colours, Backgrounds & Clothing 

Backgrounds that contrast with what your subject is wearing can create vibrant images and don't get too hung up on having everyone in matching shades as a mix of colours adds interest and if they pick their own outfits, they'll be more comfortable. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

© Sigma

 

Sigma has officially launched the AF Cine 28-105mm T3 FF, the second lens in its autofocus cinema line. The new model is designed to merge the optical performance of Sigma’s Art series with professional-grade cinema mechanics, offering filmmakers a versatile tool for modern production.

 

Features

• Advanced optical design: Built on the foundation of Sigma’s 28–105mm F2.8 DG DN | Art, the lens delivers high resolution, smooth bokeh, and minimal flare or ghosting across its focal range.
• Cinema-ready mechanics: Includes industry-standard 0.8M pitch gears, a clickless aperture ring, and a limited-rotation focus ring for precise control during filming.
• High-performance autofocus: Powered by Sigma’s High-response Linear Actuator (HLA), the lens ensures near-silent operation and dependable tracking, making it suitable for fast-paced action, gimbal work, and documentary shooting.

 

© Sigma

 

Price and Availability

The Sigma AF Cine 28–105mm T3 FF will retail at £2799. It will be available in Sony E-mount and L-Mount versions starting April 16, 2026. Product specifications may be subject to change prior to release.
 

For more information, visit Sigma’s official website.

 

The well known saying: 'Keep it simple stupid' is well known for a reason – it works. Yes, there are times when lots of compositional elements do work but by creating an almost 'empty' space, you can actually create a stronger image.

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]

1. Why Does It Work?

By cutting out clutter, other people etc. you remove potential distractions and it'll be easier for the viewer of your image to understand what / who your main focus is in the shot and what you're trying to say.
 

2. Subject Choice

 

Just because you're keeping things simple it doesn't mean it has to be boring. Actually, with this technique, you have to work hard to do the opposite and find a strong subject that can stand up on its own. This becomes even more relevant when you're using a large amount of space so your subject only takes up a small amount of the frame.

Also, rather than thinking about what to include in your frame, think the opposite and look for items you can remove.
 

Here are a few ways you can achieve a minimalist look to your shots:

  3. Blurry Backgrounds

 

An obvious way to make your subject stand out is to adjust your aperture so everything in the background is thrown out of focus. You can find more tips on how to do this here: Creative Aperture / Depth Of Field

  4. Plain Backgrounds

Studio backgrounds and other material can be used to hide distracting objects inside and while you're out, use plain walls, fences or if you're shooting small subjects such as flowers, try taking your own backgrounds with you. On the subject of flowers, you can lower your angle so you're shooting up at the flower with the sky as your background which can give you a minimalist-style shot. White backgrounds are an obvious choice but don't think you can't use some bold, strong colour too (as we'll explain further down the page).

 

5. Play With Colour

 

If your subject and background contrast your subject will stand out from the shot. You can do this with colour (bright, strong colours work well) or light, using a brighter subject against a darker background and vice versa. Just make sure there are no 'hot spots' which will pull the viewer's eye away.

Also, having a strong colour filling your background that's the same as your subject can work in some situations or try producing black & white shots which rely on strong subjects and textures to make them interesting. You could even use shapes and colour as your subject, creating a strong composition that fills your frame in the process. 

6. Space To Breath

When used right, adding space to a shot can work just as well as cropping in close. To find out why sometimes it's what you leave out of your images that makes them great, read our tutorial: How To Use Negative Space In Your Photos

 

7. Crop Out Objects

An easy way to remove objects that are at the edge of your frame is to use your zoom to crop them out. You can also use editing software such as Photoshop to crop your images and we have a detailed tutorial on how to use this tool here: Introduction To Photoshop's Crop Tool

If you find the distracting objects are too close to your subject to crop out, you could use the Clone Stamp Tool to remove them. You can also remove distracting backgrounds and replace them with plain ones in Photoshop, too.

 

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© Sigma

 

Sigma has released the 35mm F1.4 DG II | Art, a large-aperture wide-angle lens for full-frame cameras. This new evolution of the popular 35mm focal length focuses on delivering superior resolution while significantly reducing physical size and weight.

The lens uses a new optical construction consisting of 15 elements in 12 groups. This includes four high precision aspherical elements and two SLD glass elements to fix color fringing and distortions. To improve clarity in difficult lighting, Sigma introduced an Advanced Amorphous Coating (AAC) that minimizes ghosting and flare.

 

Key Features

• Enhanced Optics: 15 elements in 12 groups for edge to edge sharpness.
• Compact Design: 20% lighter and 14% shorter than the previous model.
• Advanced Coating: New AAC technology reduces reflections and flare.
• Fast Autofocus: Dual HLA motors provide quick and quiet focusing.
• Video Ready: Minimized focus breathing and a de-clickable aperture ring.
• Durability: Dust and splash resistant body with a water repellent front coating.

 

© Sigma

 

Price and Availability

The Sigma 35mm F1.4 DG II Art has a Suggested Retail Price (SRP) of £849. It will be available for purchase starting April 16, 2026. The lens is compatible with the following camera mounts:

• L-Mount
• Sony E-mount

For more information, please visit the Sigma website.

© Sigma

 

Sigma officially unveiled the 15mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary, a large-aperture wide-angle prime designed for APS-C mirrorless cameras. Set for a March 12, 2026 release, the lens achieved a rare balance of professional F1.4 brightness in a body approximately 50% lighter than its predecessor.

By utilizing a sophisticated optical path with FLD and SLD glass elements, Sigma refined the lens to a mere 220g and 64.8mm in length. This palm-sized footprint made it an ideal companion for gimbal work, travel photography, and high-quality video production.

 

Features

• Compact and lightweight: Measures just 64.8mm in length and weighs 220g (Sony E-mount version), making it approximately 30% shorter and 50% lighter than the Sigma 16mm F1.4 DC DN | Contemporary.
• Large F1.4 aperture: Delivers professional brightness and smooth circular bokeh, ideal for low-light shooting and creative depth of field.
• High optical performance: Incorporates FLD, SLD, and aspherical elements to ensure edge-to-edge sharpness and suppress sagittal coma flare, perfect for astrophotography and landscapes.
• Video-friendly design: Equipped with a quiet stepping motor for fast, precise autofocus and minimal focus breathing, enabling natural focus pulls.
• Durability: A dust and splash resistant build combined with a water and oil repellent front coating makes it reliable for outdoor use.
• Expanded lineup: Strengthens Sigma’s APS-C F1.4 DC series, now covering ultra-wide to mid-telephoto focal lengths for unrestricted creative expression.

 

© Sigma

 

Price and Availability

The 15mm F1.4 DC | Contemporary represented a high-value entry into Sigma’s expanding F1.4 lineup, which now spans from ultra-wide to mid-telephoto.

• Suggested Retail Price (SRP): £449
• Available Mounts: Sony E-mount, Canon RF Mount, and FUJIFILM X Mount
• Release Date: March 12, 2026

With this launch, Sigma reinforced the idea that APS-C users could achieve unrestricted creative expression without the typical bulk of large-aperture glass.

For more details, please visit the Sigma website. Read our full review of this lens here.

 

Flash can give images that extra bit of 'pop' they need and many cameras feature several flash modes for you to pick from so we're going to talk through the various modes available and how they work. 

 

Automatic

This is where the camera will use the flash when it detects low light levels. You don't have to tell the camera you want to use the flash, it will fire on its own.

  Flash On

This is when you tell the camera to fire the flash, regardless of the available light. It can be handy when shooting outdoors when there may be darker shadowed areas but generally the lighting is good.

  Flash Off

This turns the flash off completely. It's used when available light levels are sufficient or when shooting in areas where flash photography isn't allowed.

  Red-Eye Reduction

Red-eye is usually caused when shooting with a camera that has a built-in flash and it makes the eyes look like they have a demonic red glow. By using red-eye reduction, the flash fires several times just before the actual photo is taken. By doing this, the pupils contract and it is less likely you'll have red-eye appearing in the photograph. Do warn your subject before you fire the flash though as it can make them look like a startled deer in headlights if not.

 

Fill-In/Forced Flash

Fill-in Flash is weaker than regular flash but is strong enough to add light to darker areas of the image such as shadows. It's useful for situations when the subject needs illuminating but the background doesn't, such as the images here:

 

Slow Sync

Slow sync flash tells your camera to use a slow shutter speed and to fire the flash. This means your subject will be sharp but you'll still have some light in the background of your shot. In other words, it records the background and then illuminates the subject with flash to balance the exposure between the two areas. It's a good mode to use when shooting portraits at night although a tripod or steady support may be necessary to keep the background sharp.
 

Front Curtain Sync

This mode tells your camera to fire the flash at the start of the exposure then the shutter will remain open, continuing to record the ambient light.
 

Rear Curtain Sync

Rear-curtain sync tells your camera to fire the flash just before the photograph is finished exposing. This creates a long trail but a nice, crisp shot of your subject. Rear-curtain sync is great for adding impact to an action shot as when your subject moves through the scene they'll blur but the pop of flash at the end will leave them crisp and sharp.
 

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Contradictory to what you're told when you first pick up a camera, it is OK to have blur, and quite a lot of it, in your shots when you're photographing the right subject and want to emphasise speed or create a sense of motion. When we say it's OK we don't just mean a shot you accidentally took out of focus will pass off as something creative, you have to deliberately adjust your camera's settings or know how a quick twist of your lens will give you the blur that's needed to add a sense of action to your shot.

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1. How To Add Blur

The two ways we are going to look at are slowing down your shutter speed and using zoom blur (movement of your lens). The second can be a little harder to get a grasp of but after a few tries, it should become easier.

 

 

2. Shutter Speeds

If you've never shot action-style images before you may first think that a subject that's moving through your frame quick will need a quicker shutter speed to ensure you capture them as they move through your frame. You can do this but most of the time you'll just end up with a shot that freezes them in place and all sense of motion will be lost. However, there are a couple of exceptions to the rule such as a rally car or cyclist hurtling through a muddy puddle. As they move through the water, they'll more than likely cause spray to fly everywhere and a quick shutter speed will freeze the spray as it jumps up towards the sky, surrounding your subject. It's the spray here that helps emphasis the action and their pace so using a slower shutter speed will mean this excitement would be lost.
 

3. Slow Things Down

For times when there's no mud and water flying everywhere try slowing your shutter speed down to add some much-needed motion to the shot. How slow you have to go will depend on how fast your subject is moving, how much light is around etc. and the whole process can be a little unpredictable, however, it's worth sticking with and experimenting as you can get great results, some of which are surprising sometimes.
 

4. Balance

The hard bit can be trying to get the balance of blur and in-focus parts of the shot right. Most of the time a blurred background that has streaks running through it in the direction your subject is moving with a sharp subject sat against it is what you'll be looking for, however, if your subject is a little blurred it can emphasise motion and add further drama to your shot. Don't go too over the top with the blur though as they can just end up merging together which makes it hard for the eye to focus, meaning it's hard for the viewer to settle on one point of the image and it can make it look like you just took a bad shot.

 

 

5. Focus

For shots where you want your subject to be sharp, make sure you're focused on them as you follow them through the frame. A quick autofocus system will help ensure your shot is focused quickly and accurately. Trying to focus manually with fast-moving objects can be tricky, however, it can be done if you plan on pre-focusing on a spot, say on a particular bend on a track, you know your subject will have to pass through. Just remember to lock your focus after you've set it up and be ready to hit the shutter button at the right time.

Switching to continuous shooting mode which most cameras now feature will increase your chances of capturing the action when panning or pre-focusing on one spot. You'll need to start shooting just before your subject comes into frame though to ensure you don't miss a shot due to shutter lag. If you're panning make sure you keep the pan going even after your subject has left the frame and you've got your shot.
 

6. Flash

To brighten your subject so they pop from your frame and to freeze them in place while the background is blurred switch to slow sync flash which combines a slow shutter speed with a burst of flash. The slow shutter speed means the camera will blur the background and further subject movement. Depending on if you're using front or rear curtain will change when the flash is introduced, freezing your subject's movement at different points of the shot.

 

 

7. Zoom Blur

To really emphasise your sport and action shots, giving them a dynamic edge, try using zoom burst to create blur that you deliberately create by twisting the zoom on your lens as you take a shot.

As well as emphasising movement it can help make your subject, who's not blurred, 'pop' from the frame. A burst of light from a flashgun will help freeze your subject and add sharpness to the image.

On paper, it's a simple technique but it can take some time to actually master. You need a lens that will zoom and experimenting with different lens lengths will change the overall effect. Changing the starting point of the zoom and the length of time you zoom for and how quickly you move the lens will also change the final look of the shot. For action shots, it's best to use shorter exposures which you start while you're moving the lens. Starting zoomed out and pulling the zoom in during the exposure makes it easier to capture a sharp shot of your subject with the zoom blur surrounding them.

Adding a little bit of camera movement will adjust the pattern the zoom blur creates and can be used to direct the eye on a particular path through your shot.
 

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There is a definite desirability about a well-spaced range of compact, fast-aperture prime lenses that offer portability and a high level of optical excellence. Sigma has such a range, covering 12mm, this new 15mm, 23mm, 30mm and 56mm. As these are APS-C lenses, the “35mm equivalent” values are 18mm, 22.5mm, 35mm, 45mm and 85mm, at least in terms of what we might expect from their field of view. Available in Sony E, Fujifilm X and Canon RF mounts, these have enormous potential for both stills and video shooting. We have here the Canon RF version, and our exploration of its features and performance sees it mounted on the 24MP Canon R10 body. Let's see how it all pans out.

 

Canon RF 85mm f/1.4L VCM Handling and Features

The three mount options do have slightly different measurements, including a slightly less wide field of view for the Canon RF version, giving a “35mm equivalent” of 24mm as opposed to 22.5mm. This is because of the Canon 1.6x crop factor, as opposed to the more general 1.5x. The Canon RF lens has the usual control ring, whereas the Sony E and Fujifilm X versions both have an aperture ring.

Regardless of minor differences, the overall effect is the same in that the lens presents as a light and compact, well-made lens that balances very nicely on the Canon R10 body provided for this review. The lens weighs in at a very modest 240g (RF), 220g (E) or 225g (X). Dimensions are just 69.0mm x 62.8mm (RF), 64.0mm x 64.8mm (E) or 64.0mm x 65.1mm (X).

 

 

There is a supplied bayonet fit petal lens hood that clips positively into place. There is no retaining catch, nor is one needed. Within the bayonet fit for the hood is a conventional 58mm filter thread.

Controls on the lens are limited to just two rings. First up is the wide focusing ring. This is electronic and as smooth as silk. The second ring on the RF mount lens is a control ring, and this can be programmed to different functions. The choice of ISO setting was made for this review, but other options may be chosen. The AF system uses a high-speed stepping motor that is indeed fast, accurate and almost silent. Closest focus is 17.7cm (7.0 inches) for a maximum magnification of 1:7.9, or 0.12x. This is not as close as a macro lens, but close enough to provide exciting, dynamic compositions at distances significantly closer than a traditional lens would allow.

Optical construction is 13 elements in 11 groups, including 1 FLD, 3 SLD (Super Low Dispersion) and 3 Aspherical. FLD is a low dispersion element that uses fluorite-like glass, approaching the performance of fluorite but at an affordable level. The diaphragm consists of 9 blades, rounded to provide a rounded aperture.

 

 

The lens is dust and splash-resistant, so use in even harsh environments becomes possible. This has its limits, of course, and Sigma advises that this is not the same as waterproof. The front element is treated with coatings that repel dust, grease and moisture. We will all have our own “comfort level” when judging how much wetness can be tolerated, but in practice, this reviewer has found that weather-resistant lenses seem to survive moderate rain very well. Those that quote actual IP ratings are more specific, but we are not provided with that here.

It must be said that the new 15mm f/1.4 is a delight to handle. The focal length is wide enough to be dramatic and yet not so wide as to become a specialist lens. The degree of correction is very high, the sharpness crisp and beautiful and the general rendering (an aesthetic judgement) very attractive. There is so much to like, and not really anything significant to dislike.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Performance

Central sharpness is very good at f/1.4, excellent from f/2 through to f/8 and very good at f/11 and f/16. The edges are very good from f/1.4 right through to f/11 and still good at f/16.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Canon R10 body using Imatest. Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is very well controlled throughout, and colour fringing is unlikely to be an issue.

Distortion is just -0.81% barrel, an impressively low figure. The slight residual barrel distortion is the right choice anyway, as that is what our eyes expect from wide-angle lenses. Pincushion distortion in a wide angle just tends to look wrong.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Canon R10 body using Imatest.

 

Bokeh is a more aesthetic response and cannot be directly measured, but here we see good gradation in the out of focus areas. It will never be as smooth as a short telephoto lens might be, but nonetheless, it is very satisfactory.

Flare control is generally excellent, even with bright light sources in frame. It is possible to hit a spot where some flare becomes interesting, but almost all of the time, there is no flare to be found.

Vignetting is minimal, the actual figures being:

 

Aperture   f/1.4 -1.4 f/2 -1.2 f/2.8 -1.2 f/4 -1.2 f/5.6 -1.1 f/8 -1.1 f/11 -1.1 f/16 -1.1

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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Value For Money

The [AMUK]Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary|Sigma+15mm+f/1.4+DC+Contemporary[/AMUK] lens is priced at £449 - it is part of a group of f/1.4 primes:

• [AMUK]Sigma 12mm f/1.4 DC|Sigma+12mm+f/1.4+DC[/AMUK], £519
• [AMUK]Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC|Sigma+15mm+f/1.4+DC[/AMUK], £449       
• [AMUK]Sigma 16mm f/1.4 DC DN|Sigma+16mm+f/1.4+DC+DN[/AMUK], £389 (Replaced by 15mm)
• [AMUK]Sigma 23mm f/1.4 DC|Sigma+23mm+f/1.4+DC[/AMUK], £479      
• [AMUK]Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN|Sigma+30mm+f/1.4+DC+DN[/AMUK], £319
• [AMUK]Sigma 56mm f/1.4 DC DN|Sigma+56mm+f/1.4+DC+DN[/AMUK], £419

A very well-priced range that offers excellent VFM.

 

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Verdict

The new 15mm lens is 50% lighter, 30% shorter and has a reduced filter size from 67mm to 58mm, when compared to the 16mm f/1.4 lens that it replaces. The performance is still maintained. The handling is enhanced by the inclusion of a control ring/aperture ring. This all adds up to an excellent lens, especially suitable for street/reportage, landscape and astrophotography. It is, of course, designed for APS-C format crop sensor cameras. There is no built-in image stabilisation, but provided that the camera body has IBIS, this is not an issue.

In this Canon RF fit incarnation, it mimics the classic full-frame 24mm lenses, probably the most useful of the wide-angle lenses without becoming so wide as to make handling difficult. This is something that has evolved, as tastes have moved on from 35mm being a wide angle, to 28mm and then to 24mm, all in full frame terms.

Equally well, there has been a resurgence of compact prime lenses and these are often presented in small groups from ultra-wide to short telephoto, with very similar form factors and consistent balance that is so useful for videographers as well as stills photographers.

In summary, another fine new lens from Sigma that is Highly Recommended.

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Pros

• Excellent central sharpness
• Very good edge sharpness
• Low distortion
• Low CA
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Dust and splash-resistant construction
• Low vignetting
• Low flare
• Excellent handling
• Light and compact

 

Sigma 15mm f/1.4 DC Contemporary Cons

• No IS

 

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  What Is It?

Looking at the Histogram on your camera can help you improve the overall exposure of your images and it’s a tool that’s available on most models. It’s a graph that represents the range of tones that are in the image you’ve taken so you can analyse the shot to make sure the exposure is correct before you move on to take a photo of something else. The left side of the graph shows the darker tones and the right the lightest.

You can set your camera to show a histogram at the same time you preview your shots, see your camera’s manual for more information on how to do this.

  Why Should I Use It?

Even though the histogram looks at the tonal range of your shot, it’s a quick way for you to see if your shot is really over or underexposed. If your shot’s underexposed it will look too dark while an overexposed will look a lot brighter than it needs to be and really light areas can look blown out as they lack detail.

  What Does It Mean?

If the graph is occupying mostly the left-hand side it means your image has more dark tones than light (underexposed) and if it’s shifted to the right, there are more lighter tones (overexposed) which means you could have really bright areas that look blown out.

A 'good' histogram that shows an even exposure will peak more towards the middle and get lower to either end.

Also, as a side note, when you playback your images there’s an option you can set that makes the highlighted areas ‘blink’ so you can pinpoint their exact location. Check your camera’s manual for the instructions on how to do this.

 

  When To Use It?

How often you check your histogram is up to you but generally, cameras are quite good at setting the exposure for most scenes. However, there are a few scenarios that can confuse your camera and these are the times it’s worth checking the histogram. For example, if you have a scene that varies drastically in tones so you have really bright areas as well as dark shadows.

The same goes for times when you’re using the same settings for a series of shots that you want the exposure to be the same for each. This could be taking a series of portraits that you’re going to combine into a multi-portrait that shows one person in several different locations in your shot. If the exposure isn’t the same in all the shots they won’t blend together seamlessly and it either won’t work or it’ll mean you have more post-production work to do.

There are times when the readings on the histogram would be right, your shot isn’t correctly exposed, however you may have done this on purpose so it can be ignored. When is this true? Well shooting a silhouette would give you a histogram that isn’t considered ‘correct’ likewise for a shot where the ground and sky are of a similar tonal range such as one a beach or when it snows.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Leading bag manufacturer Billingham launched a brand-new leisure range marking a deliberate shift from its traditional photographic bag collections.

The new range introduces three non-photographic bag designs, created with everyday versatility in mind while retaining the brand’s signature build quality and attention to detail. The collection is designed to appeal to customers looking for practical, stylish bags suitable for daily use, travel, and leisure.

The range comprises of two handbags and one tote bag, whose names have been inspired by the unsung heroes of the film set.

The three new styles are:

• Dolly Grip – Refined, functional and beautiful. This small handbag is designed for effortless everyday style.
• Key Grip – A perfectly balanced medium-sized handbag designed for everyday use.
• Best Boy Tote – A spacious statement-making tote, perfect for work, travel or everyday use.

Both the Dolly Grip and Key Grip will be available in four colour combinations:

• Khaki Canvas/Chocolate Leather
• Sage FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Black FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Burgundy Canvas/Black Leather

The Best Boy Tote will be offered in two colourways:

• Sage FibreNyte/Black Leather
• Black FibreNyte/Black Leather

Across all three designs, the range shares a consistent set of practical features, including a removable shoulder sling, multiple handy zip pockets, and an internal brass key loop, making each bag both functional and adaptable to different lifestyles.

The launch represents a notable evolution for the manufacturer, expanding its product offering beyond photographic use and into a broader leisure market, while continuing to design and manufacture from its factory in the West Midlands.

The new leisure range is now available online at www.billingham.co.uk and through a few selected retailers, with UK SRP (including VAT) as follows: Dolly Grip at £289.00, Key Grip at £359.00, and Best Boy Tote at £426.00.

Photo by cattyal

 

The most popular approach to flower photography is to include the whole flower but by getting in very close or by choosing a less conventional crop you can create a rather exciting image. Plus, it's a technique you can try all year round as you can just buy your flowers from the supermarket when there's none showing their heads in your garden.

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1. Work Near A Window 

A greenhouse is a great location for shooting close-ups of flowers as there's plenty of light, you're sheltered from the wind and if the windows are slightly dirty the light will be nicely diffused. If you don't have a greenhouse work indoors next to a set of patio doors or a large window and use a net curtain or muslin to diffuse the light.

 

2. Direction, Apertures & Focus 

Position your vase/flower pot so you can work directly above it then begin experimenting with different apertures and shooting distances to change the overall effect. Start with a nice wide aperture to minimise your depth of field and switch to manual focusing as you can get in closer than your camera thinks. Although, it’s not even really necessary to have any part of the image in focus as the flower colour and shape can produce attractive abstract swirls of soft colour.

If you don’t have the ability to get in close then try some creative cropping. The sweep of a single Lily petal or the shape of an Iris lend themselves to close crops.

  3. Multiple Exposures  If your camera has it, try experimenting with the Multiple Exposure Mode. This mode allows you to take several shots on the same 'frame' which the camera then combines to create one shot. Having the lens sharply focused then defocusing as you move from exposure to exposure will give you a soft, dreamy look to your photograph.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Competition Forum

 

A breathtaking black and white landscape shrouded in fog and mist has been awarded our Photo of the Week accolade.

Captured by mlseawell at Arches National Park in southern Utah, this atmospheric image titled "A Hidden Land" is the result of an early morning well spent. Rolling hills and distant mountain ridges peek through thick layers of mist, with the fog sitting heavy across the valley and giving just enough away to keep you looking. The further you look, the more the landscape seems to hold back, and that tension is what makes this image so compelling.

Shot in black and white, the image strips the scene back to its raw essentials, letting tone, texture and light do all the talking. It is the kind of photograph that reminds you why some early mornings are worth every effort.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

When the sun's not coming out to play you have two choices: you can go home and twiddle your thumbs or you can stay out and make the most of what's on offer. If you choose the latter, here are a few photography projects you could have a go at.

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1. Beach / Coast

The coast has a completely different feel when not drenched in sunshine. The sea can merge with the horizon making it seem like it stretches on for miles and the dark shades and moody feel really suit a seaside resort that's out of season. Even more so if you have boarded up beach huts and empty amusement parks to sit against a dark, moody sky.
 

2. Buildings

Dull days give factories and old buildings more character as there are generally fewer shadows, you'll be able to pick detail out in chimneys that reach out into the sky and the gloomy day will further enhance the feel of the industry and in the case of a boarded-up building, abandonment.

   
3. Close-Ups

Bright days when the sun is high in the sky can be awkward as colours will be too harsh and you'll have deep, dark shadows. Whereas grey days, when there's plenty of clouds, is nature's way of giving you a giant softbox to work with. This weather's particularly good for photographing flowers and shrubs so get outside with a macro lens compact camera which features a Macro mode. You'll have to use a slightly slower shutter speed, though, so make sure you pack your tripod.
 

4. Reflections

Flat light can leave buildings looking a little boring but if you turn your eyes to water, their reflections in the ripples can produce a great abstract shot. The reflection on its own can make interesting, slightly surreal images and all you need to do is make sure there are some interesting shapes reflected in the water.
 

5. Go Mono

A shot that looks dull and boring in colour can be transformed into a great moody mono with a little help from Photoshop. Just make sure you have some strong shapes for your black and white conversion. Go a little further and add a bit of grain and a ragged border and your mono will be moodier than a teenager!

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Archie2022 (Day 20 - Waterfall Photography).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 15

Self Portraits

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Day 16

Vertical Lines

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Day 17

Photos With Vignettes

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  Day 18

People Shots

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Day 19

Park Photography

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Day 21

HDR Photography

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to dke (Day 4 - Flower Photography).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Frost Photography

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Day 2

Commute Photography

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Day 3

Glass Photography

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  Day 5

Car Photography

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Day 6

Football Photography

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Day 7

Food Photography

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.