DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to mikeuk (Day 7 - Winter Silhouettes)

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

'New'

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Day 2

Close-Up Outdoor

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Day 3

'Learn'

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  Day 4

Sport

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Day 5

Black & White Landscape

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Day 6

Sunrise Landscapes

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Day 8

Winter Wildlife

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Day 9

Long Shutter Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

A selection of our 'POTW' winners from 2025.

 

Our generous 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) supporter, Samsung, has kindly offered to award one of our 2025 POTW winners a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield as the prize for the accolade of Photo of the Year 2025 Award.

Which photo deserves the bonus prize and the 'Photo of the Year' title? We need your help to decide!

Until the end of January 2026, you can vote by hitting the 'like' button on your favorite 2025 POTW images in our Photo of the Year 2025 forum.

Start selecting your favourites using the 'like' button now!

Once the closing date is reached, the ePHOTOzine team will count up the 'likes,' and our 'Photo of the Year' winner will be announced.

We look forward to seeing how you all vote!

 

 

There are plenty of great mountain ranges scattered around the UK that are well worth a photo at any time of year but in winter, when a covering of snow's fallen or a hard frost has settled they tend to look even more impressive.

The cool, clean air of winter is good for capturing mountainscapes as everything seems much more clear with distant subjects appearing crisp. However, snow, ice and cold plus a mountain equals conditions you have to be extremely careful in. Make sure you dress correctly, have a route planned, carry the right equipment (map, compass, phone etc.) and tell someone where you're going.
 

What kit will be useful?

You'll find both a wide-angle and longer lens useful so make room for both in your camera bag and don't forget your tripod or monopod as a support is a must. A polarising filter will cut down on glare/reflections while an ND Grad filter will balance out the contrast between the sky and ground.

Sweeping shots from the tops, especially with snow and a crisp, blue sky look great but if you go too wide with your lens choice the sense of grandeur can be lost so be careful and check your frame before hitting the shutter button.

Think about scale

For shots that give the mountain(s) more depth compose your shots from a spot where you can make the most of their size from. Don't forget that foreground interest such as the mountain's ridge help give your image scale and can be used to lead the eye through the shot.

For shots with foreground and background interest where front to back sharpness is needed you'll need to use smaller apertures which can mean longer exposure times are needed so make sure you have your tripod or monopod with you.

Consider a panorama for impact

Don't forget about panoramas as they work particularly well for shots of mountain ranges. It won't give you shots that really show off the mountain's height, but it will emphasise how far the landscape stretches out into the distance for. For tips on panoramas, have a look at our previous articles.

Shots of the mountain are what really show how tall these natural structures are, rather than photos taken from the top of them - good news for those that are a little less intrepid! You can use a wide lens but you have to be closer than you think to the mountain(s) to create any sense of height and more often than not, whatever is in the background tends to lose impact with the foreground taking centre stage. It's much easier to use a longer telephoto that pulls the distant mountain to you, filling the frame and as a result, giving the shot more impact.

When creatively playing with focus, having out of focus areas that are the main focal point rather than having a sharp, in focus point of interest can add more intrigue and interest to a shot. You can also use out of focus foregrounds as frames, to guide the eye through the shot or throw sharpness entirely out of the window and create something much more abstract with your out of focus shots. But to do this you first have to know how you can control it then execute it in a way that doesn't make it look like something you did by mistake. 
 

How Do I Control What's In Focus? The easiest way is with aperture priority as you can change the size of the aperture to bring more or less into focus. If your camera struggles to focus where you want it to in auto-focus, use focus lock to get the image you want rather than taking a photo the camera thinks is right.

The elements can help you make more creative shots too as fog / mist can help soften scenes as long range images gradually lose contrast and far objects will disappear or appear as silhouettes. You can also try shooting through things. With a wide enough aperture and a close shooting distance they will add an extra level of out of focus interest to your shot.
  Portraits We are always told that sharp portraits with backgrounds thrown out of focus are what work but there are times when a little blur can go a long way. It can work well when you're trying to create the feel of a candid, reportage style shot rather than something that's posed and set up. It can also add a little romanticism and mystery to a shot. Indoors, making your subject a little less sharp can work in the studio too as Rossella Vanon explains: "I personally love shooting portraits by using a very big aperture and blurring the whole background and part of the subject too. It gives a very simple, creative twist to the picture and I would definitely recommend it."
  Same Shot Different Message A simple change in focus will not only change the main focal point of your shot but can change the message too. The two shots here are of the same two people but the first you're left wondering what the women in the foreground is looking at and thinking while the second shot is all about the subject in the background of the shot. 




Out On The Town Blurry backgrounds shouldn't be forgotten altogether but instead of throwing something that's usually seen as secondary out of focus, step further back from what you're photographing and throw the, what others would consider to be the main point of interest, out of focus. This can work well with landmarks, particularly in cities where you can use tourists taking photos of the landmark or even artists as your main point of focus. Do remember you need the right angle and interesting, contrasting elements for this to work successfully, though.

On rainy days, shoot through windows that have water running down them, blurring what's on the outside or use the ripples of a puddle to shoot a more abstract shot of city lights at night.
  Foreground Frames Frames are a great tool for guiding the eye to what's important in the shot but they don't always have to be obvious, frame – like objects such as windows for the shot to work. Some out of focus foreground detail such as foliage, grass, branches or even fabrics and plastic will add another level of interest as well as act as a guide for the eye to your subject. Make sure you're close to your foreground detail and use a wide enough aperture to throw it out of focus otherwise it won't blur and will pull attention away from your main subject. Auto focus may want to focus on what's in the foreground rather than the background so switch to manual if this happens.
  All Blurry If you're trying to create an abstract shot where everything is soft, you need a subject that's colourful and has interesting shapes and lines otherwise your shot won't have the impact you first intended it to have.
  Zoom, Zoom, Zoom This technique is more about having an image that's not sharp rather than focusing but still, it gives you an interesting result that shows sharp isn't always best. To get it right you need to set the zoom to either the short or long end of the focal length range, open the shutter, wait for a while then in one, smooth, quite quick movement, zoom out. By pausing at the start your subject will have a little definition before the blur kicks in. Fit a neutral density filter or a polarising filter if you can't get a slow enough shutter speed and meter from your main focus point. Make sure you have a low ISO set and switch to a small aperture to get the slower shutter speed that's needed.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

ePHOTOzine is happy to announce the winners of the 2025 Christmas Prize Draw giveaway!

 

Congratulations to all the winners, and thank you again to our kind sponsors.

 

Here are the winners!

 

Day 1: £1,000 To Spend With MPB:

Dennis Debono (Bigdenbo)

 

Day 2: Nikon Z50 II + 16-50mm Kit:

Catherine Taylor (CathTay)

 

Day 3: £500 To Spend With MPB:

Andrew Thompson (AndrewThompson)

 

Day 4: Wacom Intuos Pro Medium:

David Lees (Dlees78)

 

Day 5: SIGMA 17-40mm F1.8 DC Art:

Steve Whitfield (boxer57)

 

Day 6: 1 of 10 Zoner Studio yearly licenses:

1. Gary Macleod (Gary_Macleod)
2. Joe Fuller (5hutterlag)
3. Arnie Livingston (zwarder)
4. Helen Jones (Opals_mum)
5. Andrew William McDonald (awmcdonald)
6. Richard Niglas (estonian)
7. Stephen (Steve_i2007)
8. Steve Walmsley (stevew10000)
9. John Askey (JJ_A)
10. Maggie Maddock (maggiem)

 

Day 7:

Exclusive 3DWiggle Packages - King package 1500+ Wigglegrams:

Chris Parnham (Metalhead)

 

Exclusive 3DWiggle Packages - Pro package 700+ Wigglegrams:

1. Zsolt Nagy (joelt)
2. KAT COMER (KITTYCOMET11)
3. Phillip James Davies (PJDz73)
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5. Neil Fernandes (neilossi)

 

Exclusive 3DWiggle Packages – Enthusiast package:

1. Andrew Donkin (TheShaker)
2. Katherine McNamee (Katmc3)
3. Adam D Chamberlain (Ad93)
4. Jodi Hill (Jhill1105)
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6. Izak Wilkinson (WilkinsonIzak)
7. ChiHo Hui (Baggio18)
8. RWPhotoGraphix (RWPhotoGraphix)
9. Austris Bokmanis (impix9)
10. Daniel Spalding (spaldingd)
11. Bartlomiej Soltys (FriendlyLlama)
12. Mark Rayner (markrayner1982)
13. Shane Weir (sweir1)
14. Sophie Carter (saffy11)
15. Neil Watson (onelastwin)
16. Kayleigh Beirne (kaybee1001)
17. Darren Mcowen (Dzzmm100)
18. Kathleen Hooper (katieskatie82)
19. Amy Vigrass (AmyJV)
20. Katy Leat (smurfpunx)

 

Day 8: 1 of 3 Datacolor SpyderPros:

1. Tony Agnew (Tony2645)
2. Geoff Rundle (GeoffRundle)
3. David Nordell (chalkhillblue)

 

Day 9: £250 To Spend With MPB:

David Ritchie (flatfoot471)

 

Day 10: 1 of 3 Samsung EVO Plus 1TB Memory Cards:

1. Emile de Sousa (Oldstoat)
2. Karen (KazG)
3. Steve Bell (steveb)

 

Day 11: Atomos Ninja TX GO:

Malc Bernhard (saltireblue)

 

Day 12: Meike 85mm f/1.8 SE Mark II lens:

Volker Brandl (Colourimeter)

 

Day 13: Samsung Portable SSD T7 Shield:

Rita Testa (HoneyT)

 

Day 14: Atomos StudioSonic Mic + Headphones Bundle:

Mal Ogden (Techno)

 

Day 15: 1 of 10 Outdoor Photographer Subscriptions:

1. Pete Fiore (pmfiore)
2. Michael Di Stefano (MadManMikeD)
3. Mike Hughes (Bdc300)
4. Gary Stonewall (Stnrck64)
5. Henry Bohleke (blueridge658)
6. Steve Schild (steveschild)
7. Lesley S. Blevins (lesleysfix)
8. Lou Novick (lnovick)
9. Stephen Evans (k9pug)
10. Suzanne Offner (suz_usa)

 

Day 25: 1 of 10 ePHOTOzine 1-Year Plus Memberships:

1. Dermel
2. expederest
3. KBrowning2
4. robwin
5. MikeD61
6. Hirta
7. PhilipCal
8. foady
9. cardiffgareth
10. grangeb7

 

Not A Lucky Winner This Time?

Upload a photo to win our 'Photo of the Week' accolade that's up for grabs weekly! Each winner of the ‘Photo of the Week’ in 2026 wins a 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter from Samsung. We also have our for-fun Daily Theme Challenge, so join in and upload your favourite themed photos.

Mobile phone cameras are now capable of producing shots which even the most critical photographer will say are decent and well worth displaying in portfolios. Modern smartphones have had a major impact on the photography market as a lot are now capable of producing images just as good, or even better, than basic compact cameras. If a compact is all you wanted to use for your travels, why not upgrade your smartphone and have one less item to pack? 

When you couple this improved technology with the hundreds of apps that are available which are designed to help you be more creative and take better photos, it's easy to see why there's a growing admiration for this form of photography.

As most people now carry a smartphone that has a camera built in we thought we'd put a list of ten tips together to help you improve your shots taken with cameras built into mobile phones, for those situations when you want a good shot and all you happen to have is your phone. 

 

 

Think Of It As A Camera

Holding your phone in one hand and trying to press the shutter button will only result in blurry, wonky shots. Holding your phone with two hands quite close to your body will mean your phone is much more stable and as a result, your images will be better. A lot of modern smartphones now have dedicated shutter buttons to help you capture photos easily, and some even have the ability to take a photo from a squeeze of the sides, like the HTC U11. 

 

Stay Still

Having your arms tucked close to your sides and standing as still as possible will stop any blur caused by movement from spoiling your shot. Don't move your phone away as soon as you've clicked your shutter button either as shutter lag can mean your camera's still processing the shot so you'll end up with a blurry photo of another part of the scene rather than the person or object you want a photo of. Phones like the Samsung Galaxy S9 have OIS built-in, to help combat this too. 

 

Use Accessories

Many companies are now producing lenses and supports for iPhones and other mobile phones which can help enhance and improve your mobile phone photos. One example is the USB Fever Super 20x Macro Lens which offers a magnification of 20x. You can find out how the lens performs in our review. Lensbaby also make a kit which uses magnets to let you interchange various creative lenses.

 

 

 

Zoom With Your Feet

If your camera phone doesn't have an optical zoom use your feet to move you closer to your subject rather than using the digital zoom which can lower the quality of the shot.

 

Light

You'll be relying on natural light most of the time so get outside, when possible, and set up near windows or patio doors when working inside. If you need to turn a few lights on, do watch the colour cast they create. You can tweak the white balance on some phones or there are apps available which you can do this with too. Some also give you exposure compensation options so you can brighten or darken your shot. It's worth checking your settings, which we'll cover next, to find out exactly what your phone's camera can and can't do. Most modern phones pride themselves on having good low light capabilities, many of which use apertures of f/2 or wider to maximise light entering the lens.

Be careful where you position yourself when shooting outdoors as shooting in the direction of the sun can result in flare, although some people like the effect and it can actually work quite well with some shots. As well as having too much light in your shot too little can result in grainy shots where not much detail can be seen.

 

Check Your Settings

Go into your camera's settings and make sure that you camera is primed for the shot. Are there different scene modes to choose from? Experiment to find the right one. A lot of mobiles offer 'pro' or 'advanced' modes, allowing you to change the ISO and shutter speed, white balance etc manually, and experienced photographers will find this useful to personalise images. You may also find there are various shooting modes on offer as well as presets such as night, panorama and portrait mode all designed to help you take the best shot possible.

 

The Lens

It's quite easy to take a shot where a finger or thumb is covering the lens so watch where you position your hands. As phones are put in pockets and carried around in bags they get dusty easily and due to us handling them a lot they get covered in greasy fingerprints quite quickly too so make sure you keep your lens clean and check it before you take any shots.

 

 

Try Different Angles

Working with a phone generally gives you more flexibility than a camera that's on a tripod so make the most of this freedom by varying your shooting angle and trying new shots. People don't always know you're taking a picture when you're holding your phone either, making them good for quick street candids. This doesn't mean you can take photos in places that say you can't though, you still have to obey the rules.

 

Don't Forget About Post Production

Using a phone to take photos with isn't an excuse for not correcting wonky horizons or adjusting the brightness levels in a shot. You can edit your photos with apps on your phone but the screen is a little small so don't overlook transferring them to your computer so you can edit on a larger screen.

 

Experiment With Apps

There's no excuse for not experimenting with your phone photography as the many apps that are available mean you can colour pop photos, add frames, create film effects... the list goes on. There's also apps out there that offer you shooting advice in the palm of your hand so if you want to brush up on your wedding photography while out and about, for example, you can. Some apps you have to pay for but there's also many free apps available which are just as good. Take a look at our review section to see what apps we've liked the most.

 

Photos by Joshua Waller

 

1. Use A Longer Lens

When shooting portraits a standard zoom is fine but a longer lens will give you more flattering shots and a tripod can be useful if you're using a slower shutter speed due to the amount of light available. Before picking up the flashgun, reach for a reflector to bounce some extra light into your shot and if it's too bright try hanging netting on the window but stay away from colour as you'll get a cast on your image.

 

2. Cloudy Days Are Good

Cloudy days, which we seem to have a lot of at the moment, are perfect for portraits as the light's diffused and if you have a spot or window if you're working indoors that's not in the direct path of the sun even better. Before you start, make sure you clean your window, though, as a dirty one can be a full f/stop darker and turn your house lights off.

3. Use A Reflector 

If you find that the sun is causing shadows to appear under the nose and/or chin of your model use a reflector to add light to the areas in shadow or if you're indoors, move them more into the room, away from the window.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

  4. Get Your Metering Right

Don't meter from your window when shooting at home as this will have the same effect as snow has on your camera – it will think the scene is brighter than it actually is and your model will, therefore, be underexposed. However, by simply metering from your model's face you'll have no problems. To give your shot more warmth try the cloud or shade white balance settings.
 

5. It's All In The Eyes

The eyes need to be sharp and the front of their face needs to be in the light to draw attention to it. Asking your model to simply tilt their head slightly will bring more/less of their face into the light. You can also move your camera around the scene to find a suitable position to shoot from.
 

6. Create An Angle 

Try sitting your model 45-degrees to the direction the light is coming from or how about shooting side on? For more interesting shots try only lighting half of them or have a go at creating shapes from their silhouette.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

The countdown has begun for the 2026 London Photo Trade Show, taking place from 15–17 January 2026 at the Novotel London West, Hammersmith. This year’s event promises to be bigger and better than ever, with the highly anticipated Live Stage showcasing some of the UK's most talented and innovative photographers.
 

From live demonstrations to insightful presentations, the Live Stage will feature a diverse range of sessions designed to inspire, educate, and equip photographers with the tools and techniques they need to excel in 2026. Whether you're a budding photographer or an established pro, the Live Stage offers a golden opportunity to learn from the best in the industry.

Live Stage Highlights:

Thursday 15 January 2026:

• 10:30 – Terry Donnelly – Wildlife Photography with the Sony Alpha Cameras
• 11:30 – Fabrizia Costa – Eyewitness: Saving Human Memory Before It’s Too Late
• 12:30 – Gavin Maxwell – GFX Challenge Grant Award Project – ‘If The Land Could Speak’
• 13:30 – Canon EOS R6 Mark III – Unleash Your Passion
• 14:30 – Angela Jackson – What is Intellectual Property (IP)?
• 15:30 – Brendan Taylor – How to Fix 2026

 

Friday 16 January 2026:

• 10:30 – Terry Donnelly – Portrait Photography with the Sony A7v
• 11:30 – Ian Martindale – Turning Enquiries into Paid Clients
• 12:30 – Gavin Maxwell – GFX Challenge Grant Award Project – ‘If The Land Could Speak’
• 13:30 – EOS R5 Mark II & R6 Mark III: Benefits of Upgrading
• 14:30 – Angela Jackson – What is Intellectual Property (IP)?
• 15:30 – Brendan Taylor – How to Fix 2026

 

Saturday 17 January 2026:

• 10:30 – Terry Donnelly – Sports Photography with the Sony Alpha Cameras
• 11:30 – Ian Martindale – Turning Enquiries into Paid Clients
• 12:30 – Rebecca Douglas – Exploring Liminal Spaces with Minimalist Kit
• 13:30 – EOS R5 Mark II & R6 Mark III: Autofocus Essentials
• 14:30 – Angela Jackson – What is Intellectual Property (IP)?
• 15:30 – Brendan Taylor – How to Fix 2026

 

  Free Entry Offer!

Photographers and creatives who pre-register before 1 January 2026 can skip the £10 entry fee and gain free access to the Live Stage sessions. However, space is limited, so early registration is encouraged to secure a spot.

 

The Live Stage Speakers for the 2026 event have been generously supplied by our sponsors, ensuring attendees have access to the latest tips, techniques, and gear that will shape the photography landscape in the coming year.
 

About the London Photo Trade Show 2026

The London Photo Trade Show is one of the UK's premier events for photographers, providing a unique platform for industry professionals to discover new technologies, connect with leading brands, and enhance their skills through hands-on demonstrations and expert-led sessions. The 2026 event is set to be an unmissable gathering for anyone in the photography industry.

Register for FREE tickets now!

 

Skylum, the creator behind the award-winning AI photo editor Luminar Neo, has introduced a new feature called AI Assistant that makes photo editing fast, smarter and more intuitive. Released in December 2025 as part of the Luminar Neo update, photographers can now use the AI Assistant to type simple text commands and get tailored editing suggestions to enhance their photos and speed up their workflow.

 

Edit Smarter Through Text Commands

Available in both Presets and Edit tabs, the AI Assistant works by analysing your image’s composition, colours, and objects, then recommends edits that fit the image. Photographers can type requests or prompts such as “Enhance this photo” or “Turn this photo black and white” to instantly see up to three suggested edits, each with previews and short descriptions. 

Once a suggestion is applied, you can fine-tune the results in the Edit tab. This cuts down on guesswork and gives you a clear starting point. The best part? You're never limited. You can keep asking for fresh suggestions as many times as you like, experimenting until you find the look that feels just right.

 

Explore Tools With Guided Assistance

The AI Assistant is not only about quick fixes. For guidance-type queries, the AI Assistant highlights the most effective tools and provides direct access to them. This makes it easier to explore Luminar Neo’s features while you’re actively editing, helping you learn the software step by step without interrupting your workflow.

 

 

Enhance and Create With AI Suggestions

AI Assistant can suggest general enhancements, help boost colours, adjust white balance, and apply toning styles directly to your photo. It also provides guidance for edits like brightening, adjusting contrast, dehazing, or using tools for creative effects such as sky replacement, adding a sunset, perspective fixes and background replacement. These suggestions help you choose the right tools and approach for each image, whether you want subtle improvements or bold transformations.

 

Integrated With Luminar Neo’s Features

AI Assistant works seamlessly with Luminar Neo’s existing tools such as Relight AI, Sky Replacement and Portrait Background Removal. This integration means you can combine automated suggestions with advanced manual controls, creating a complete editing workflow inside one platform.

 

Try Luminar Neo and AI Assistant Today

Luminar Neo’s AI Assistant is available now for all users with version 1.26.0 or later. Download the software to streamline your workflow and enjoy faster, smarter editing.

Special Offer: Use code EPHOTOZINE at checkout for 10% off and explore the entire range of Luminar Neo features today.

Get Luminar Neo Now

 

 

London Camera Exchange has announced that entries for its Photographer of the Year 2026 competition will close on 21 January 2026. Now in its third year, the contest offers a £10,000 prize fund across 14 categories, including the popular Emerging Talent section, and welcomes submissions from photographers of all levels.

All entries will appear in the official online gallery, with the public able to vote in the People’s Choice category, while other sections are judged by a panel of industry experts. Shortlisted work will be showcased at The Photography & Video Show at the NEC in Birmingham this March, where winners will receive trophies and prizes including £2,500 in LCE vouchers for the overall champion.

 

From London Camera Exchange

The deadline for the 2026 LCE Photographer of the Year competition is fast approaching. Now in its third year, the national photography contest will close at midnight on 21 January. Photographers of all levels of experience are welcome to submit their work, with 14 varied categories to choose from, and a substantial total prize fund of £10,000.

Every entry will be featured in the LCE POTY 2026 online gallery, and will be open to public voting in the ‘People’s Choice’ category. All other categories are judged by an expert panel.

Last year’s ‘Emerging Talent’ student category was won by Martina Aguirre Torres, with her stunning image entitled ‘Abigail’ (above), shot during British indie rock band The Last Dinner Party’s 2024 tour. Two £500 prizes are granted in this category – one to the photography student and one to their photography course – providing resources to support the growth of up-and-coming photographers in the future.

Judges for the 2026 contest include SheClicks founder and journalist Angela Nicholson, Chris George, content director at Future Publishing, professional portrait and travel documentary photographer Jimmy Cheng, and Lee Harasyn, managing director of LCE. Some helpful advice from the judging panel for potential entrants to this year’s competition can be found below:

 

 

Angela Nicholson commented, “As a judge, I’m drawn to images that reflect the photographer’s interpretation of a scene and their connection with the subject. I’m looking for a creative vision, thoughtful use of light, technique and composition, and photographs that feel personal, expressive and intentional.”

 

 

Jimmy Cheng remarked, “Aside from technical brilliance, I will be looking for images that express emotions and creative presentation.”

 

 

Chris George added, "It was winning a photo competition that spurred my interest in photography and then taking it up as a career, so I love the chance to judge contests myself. I am always on the lookout for a shot I haven't seen before – or an image taken way better than similar ones I have seen in the past.”

 

 

Lee Harasyn said, “I’m naturally drawn to great technique, but sometimes a photographer can capture an image so powerful that this becomes irrelevant. The best photos connect with the viewer – and that’s what I’m hoping to find.”

Winners will receive a share of the £10,000 prize pot and an impressive trophy, presented at The Photography & Video Show at the NEC in Birmingham (March 2026). The overall winner will be awarded £2,500 in LCE vouchers to spend on products of their choice. All shortlisted images will be displayed in a prominent exhibition space at the NEC and included in a special edition commemorative book.

LCE POTY 2026 is supported by leading photo industry brands including headline sponsors Canon, Fujifilm and OM System, as well as partners Lexar, Nikon and Sony, and affiliates Cewe and Sigma.

The competition is open to photographers aged 18 and over. Entries will be accepted from photographers worldwide, however, prizes will only be awarded to UK residents. 

 

LCE Photographer of the Year 2026 categories:

• Action
• After Dark
• Birds
• Creative
• Emerging Talent
• Events
• Landscape
• Macro
• People’s Choice
• Pets
• Portrait
• Street
• Travel
• Wildlife

 

Entries can be submitted online or in person at any of the 26 London Camera Exchange stores.

For full details, including terms, conditions, rules and FAQs, please visit the competition website.

 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

1. Shooting outside

When you're taking outdoor portraits in sunlight the results can be a little harsh with dark heavy shadows spoiling the image. As a result, a blip of fill-in flash is needed to balance the image. Many cameras when the integral flash is used have a fill in flash mode which forces the flash to fire. Adding a little flash can flatter your model's skin, remove deep shadows that can appear in places on the face such as under the nose and it will give your model catchlights in their eyes which is a big bonus. It's also useful on overcast days as it can breath life into dull portraits. You can also use a 'pop' of flash to highlight foreground interest in landscape shots.

 

2. Shooting into the sun

When shooting into the sun when your subject would usually be silhouetted, by exposing for the scene as normal then adding a pop of flash you'll lighten your subject without affecting the background. When exposing for the scene you need to find the right balance between the shutter speed, which you need to set so it adds enough ambient light, and the size of the aperture which you use to expose for the flash. You have to do it this way round as every time you fire the flash there will be the same amount of light so speeding up or slowing down the shutter speed won't make a difference.

Remember, though, that you cannot set a shutter speed faster than the camera's flash sync speed or the picture will be unevenly exposed. There are some camera/flashgun combinations that will sync at every shutter speed but these are usually top-end models. Check your instruction manual if you are unsure what is the correct flash sync speed.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

3. Should I use external flash?

Your camera's built-in flash can work fine for fill-in but you can do more using a separate flash used off-camera. Models are available from your camera brand as well as independent names. By using off-camera flash you can move it around the scene to help evenly light your shot. Off-camera flash used in dark conditions also has the advantage of avoiding red-eye. If needs be you can change the strength of your flash with flash exposure compensation if you're using the camera's built-in flash or one on your hot-shoe.

To maintain full flash automation when the flashgun is used off-camera you will need a dedicated cord, although some camera/flashgun combination offer wireless flash metering control. Wireless control can work fine but can struggle in bright daylight so you need to check how your DSLR performs before doing an important shoot.

Do be careful when using fill flash as it can make your portrait shots look a little artificial. Set a minus value on the flash exposure compensation control or turn down the output of the flashgun. It's important to remember that less is more and use fill flash to subtly lift your portraits.  

  What's A Long Exposure?

Generally used in low light situations, long exposures keep your camera's shutter open for longer so more light can reach its sensor. If you're working when there's too much light around you can slow your shutter speeds down by fitting an ND filter to the front of your lens.

You will need a tripod when using longer exposure times as working hand-held will more than likely result in shake spoiling your shots.

Before you open your shutter, make sure your battery has plenty of charge, as you don't want to get halfway through an exposure to find your camera's no longer alive.

 

When And Where To Use Long Exposures

There are various practical as well as artistic reasons for using longer exposures but for this article our focus will be on using them to create more aesthetically pleasing, memorable shot.

 

1. Spooky, Atmospheric Shots

If the sea's choppy or you're out on a misty morning you can use long exposures to capture the movement of the waves and mist. Both will turn into a white, smooth blanket that circles any still objects it's close to. It can help create an eerie atmosphere that works just as well by the sea as it does in a graveyard or in the woods.

 

2. Northern Lights

Not many of us get the chance to capture the Northern Lights, however, if the opportunity does arise, long exposures or even a camera with a Bulb setting so you can keep the shutter open for as long as you see fit would be handy. By using longer exposure times you'll be able to capture some foreground detail in your shots which will add scale to your shot and really emphasise how big the aurora display really is.

  3. Blurry Water

We know it's something that's overdone but its popularity means it's something we can't ignore when talking about long exposures.

The slower the shutter speed, the more blur/softer the water's movement will be. The speed you need will change depending on how much blur you want, how much water there is and the distance between the camera and your subject.

Remember to meter carefully as large areas of light tones can fool the camera into underexposing your shot and slow shutter speeds will blur anything that moves not just water. To combat this, try taking two shots: one with the slower shutter speed then, the other with a speed that will freeze movement. You can then combine these in editing software such as Photoshop. You may also need to cover your eyepiece up to stop light flowing through it spoiling your shot.

Take a look at this tutorial for tips on using long exposures at the coast: Coastal Photography

 

4. Give A City Shot More Interest

The short days we have at the moment make it the perfect time to shoot some night shots in the city. Buildings dotted with lights and neon shop signs decorating the streets look good on their own but to add even more interest, use long shutter speeds to blur any moving subjects with lights into streaks of colour. It can work well with those giant wheels many cities now have as the white lights will be blurred into a circle of white light while its surroundings will remain static. Near round-a-bouts or in busy, built-up areas set up near or above a road to turn traffic invisible, leaving their lights as streaks of colour that circle the buildings nearby.

If you're in an area with lots of people you can use long exposures to 'hide' distracting crowds of passing people as their movement will mean they're not captured in your frame (unless they stop walking of course). 10-30 second exposure will capture the light trails but if you want longer shutter speeds, use the B setting. Use a remote trigger, cable release or self-timer to fire the shutter to minimise shake and use a small aperture to give you front to back sharpness.

 

5. Capture Movement

We know that stars, the moon and clouds move but have you ever thought about recording their movement? Long exposures mean you can capture star trails as they move across the night sky and turn white, dots of clouds into long fluffy lines sat against a blue sky. You can also do the same with storm clouds as they darken and approach from the horizon.

For tips on capturing star trails, have a look at these tutorials:

• Star Trails Part One
• Start Trails Part Two

  6. Paint A Scene With Light

Torches, LEDs, sparklers and even the light from your phone can be used as a 'brush' to paint lines of colour into a scene. You can use the light streaks on their own, writing or drawing images against dark backgrounds or you can use them to add an extra level of interest to a night-time scene. You can paint colour onto static objects, drawing the eye to them as a result or you can add light-painted objects and shapes, such as stick men, to your scene.

For more tips on light-painting, have a look at these tutorials:

• Spirograph-Style Light Painting
• Light Painting
• Writing With Sparklers

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

Lens manufacturer Meike has announced the release of the SE Series 85mm f/1.8 Mark II full-frame autofocus STM lens for Canon EF mount, priced at $229.99 USD.

The new lens improves on the earlier Mark I version with reduced chromatic aberration, faster autofocus, enhanced image quality, and a closer minimum focusing distance of 0.65m.

 

Meike SE Series 85mm f/1.8 Mark II Specs:

• Model: EF 85mmF1.8 STM SE II
• Focal Length: 85mm
• Format: Full Frame
• Aperture Range: F1.8–F16
• Filter Thread: 62mm
• Diaphragm Blades: 11
• Minimum Focus Distance: 0.65m
• Lens Construction: 11 elements in 7 groups
• Angle of View (Full Frame): Diagonal 27.8°, Horizontal 23.4°, Vertical 10.8°
• Angle of View (APS-C): Diagonal 18.67°, Horizontal 15.53°, Vertical 10.38°
• Weight: about 346g

For more information, visit the Meike website where the lens is now available to purchase.

 

You shouldn't be without your camera during the Christmas season as there's so much going on for you to capture. So, with your camera in hand, let's look at how you can create a great Christmas photo.
 

 

Select A Mode

The first thing to do is capture the picture and most digital cameras make the job easy. If you're new to photography, simply select an Auto mode and the camera takes all the exposure technicalities out of your hands, leaving you to concentrate on the shot. 

 

Indoor Portraits

For indoor shots, compact cameras have the appropriately titled Portrait Mode. Do check your shots if the flash fired, though as it can be a little harsh so it might be worth trying to diffuse it slightly.

When photographing children you'll find they tend to smile unnaturally or pull a face when asked to pose, but there are ways around this to ensure you capture a more natural expression. Try and joke with them, making them laugh and smile in the process. Another approach is to shoot candidly so they don't get bored waiting for you to pose them. 
 

Red Eye

Many cameras have a red-eye reduction mode that fires a pre-flash to reduce the devil-inducing effect. Make sure this is switched on when you're shooting your portraits to reduce the chances of red eye spoiling the shot. 

 

Natural Light

You can also try turning the flash off (this mode appears as a small lightning symbol with line through it) and using natural light from a window or patio doors. Window light will cast a shadow on the unlit side of the portrait which can be reduced effectively with a reflector. If you don't have one make your own by using tin foil, spray mounted onto a large sheet of card. Position this reflector so it points at the subject from the shadow side. As you move the card you'll see light reflect onto the person and the shadows will disappear.

 

Making The Person Your Main Point Of Focus

With DSLRs you can go into manual or aperture priority and select a large aperture to reduce the sharpness of the background to make your subject stand out. With compact cameras, just switch to portrait mode for shots of people and macro mode for close-ups as this lets the camera know you want to use a large aperture to throw the background out of focus. 

Try using the camera's zoom at the telephoto setting to magnify the subject and home in tightly on their face. You'll fill the frame with their face ensuring they are the main focus of your photograph.

 

Understanding White Balance

If you take pictures using room lighting you may need to switch the camera to a different white balance setting. This is usually set automatically, but you can manually correct it by selecting the light bulb option when the pictures are coming out too yellow. You can also override auto to force a colour cast, if you so wish.

 

Snow Fun

The first sign of snow and children will be out sledging, building snowmen and throwing snowballs. Take this opportunity to get some great candid pictures. But watch out for the pitfalls, snow is very bright and will fool the camera into thinking the scene is a lot brighter than it actually is. To stop this, switch to a program scene mode called Snow which compensates automatically ensuring the snow appears lovely and white.

Keep an eye out for colour cast too as snow can sometimes end up looking a little blue. Changing to a different white balance setting should fix the problem quickly though.  

Happy Christmas Everyone! 

  

  1. Do Your Research

Knowing what wildlife will appear where and when will save you time and stop you walking around for a shot you may never find. Knowing what they eat is also important as, for example, it can mean you end up capturing a shot of a Blackbird rather than a Blue Tit in your garden.

 

Make sure you know how your camera and any other gear you have out with you works before you're outside in your hide. It may sound like a daft statement but knowing how to quickly adjust a setting can make all the difference when you only have a few seconds to take a shot.

2. Feed The Birds

Winter can be hard work for wildlife as they have to work harder to find food sources, but this can make them slightly easier to track down. In nature reserves, look for places you can set up near hedgerows used for feeding and back home you can set up your own feeders to attract birds who are still around for the winter months. Don't just suddenly start feeding them then stop once you have your images though.

Shots of birds on feeders are good but for more natural-looking images try placing perches such as branches or even a spade near the feeder which they can land on before going for the food. You can also put nuts, berries, seeds and fat balls in holes and cracks in trees to attract them to land.
 

3. Be Patient And Ready

Animals and birds scare easy so don't think you can just head outside, get your camera out and start shooting. Nature reserves usually have hides dotted around you can use and when you're out in the field or in your own garden, set up a portable hide. Once your hide is up, be prepared to wait a while before any wildlife comes your way as it'll take them some time to realise you're not a threat. Although in nature reserves and parks where wildlife is more used to human contact you probably won't have to wait quite as long. Don't make any sudden movements and take some time to just look at the scene around you instead of getting your camera out straight away. By doing so your subject is more likely to return and you don't have to spend as much time out in the cold.

If you're working at home and have a window you can shoot from, set up inside and either shoot through the glass (make sure you're close up to the windowpane to cut down on reflections) or open up the window if you can. You can then stay warm with the heating on and still get the wildlife shots you're looking for.
 

4. Gear Choices 

Longer lenses (400mm is a good place to start) are generally a must, however, you can use slightly shorter lenses it just means you have to work harder at getting closer to your subject. When using longer lenses and sitting, waiting for long periods of time you don't want to be holding your camera so take your tripod out with you. If you're out walking a monopod is a worthwhile consideration as they're easier to manoeuvre, however, a tripod will work just fine if you don't own one. Of course, if you can remotely trigger your camera via your Smart Phone or other trigger devices, you won't need a lens that's quite as long. 

 

5. Be Quick

Wildlife doesn't hang around for long and some, such as hares, move quickly so quick shutter speeds are needed to freeze movement and to capture skittish behaviour. If your shutter speed is too low there's a chance your shot will have blur in it as they move quicker than you think, especially birds who quickly turn their heads into different positions. To get the quicker shutter speeds you'll most likely need to crank up the ISO but as most digital cameras now cope with ISOs up and beyond 800 without noise becoming too much of an issue, you shouldn't have any problems with doing that.

6. Backgrounds And Composition

No matter where you're shooting your wildlife shots you need to have a good look around the viewfinder to make sure there's nothing in the background that will distract the viewer. Throwing the background out of focus can look great, however, this can cause parts of your subject, particularly when working with small subjects such as birds, to also go out of focus. If this happens try using a slightly smaller aperture as getting the subject sharp is what's more important.

You may have to work quickly but this doesn't mean you should forget about composition altogether. Do give your subject space and try not to capture them when looking out of frame as your viewer will follow their gaze and move their eyes out of shot. Do shoot while they're in different positions too as you may find a side profile shot works much better than one where they are head-on, for example.
 

7. Be At Their Angle

A low position gets you down to the animal's level and can help avoid messy backgrounds. Out in the field, this could mean laying on the ground to get a shot of a squirrel foresting for food and in your garden, you could end up placing feeders lower than you first thought so your lens lines up with them more easily.
 

 

 

8. Shoot When It Snow

Not that many places in the UK have had much snow as of yet but when a bit of the white stuff does fall it gives photographers the chance to shoot against clutter-free backgrounds that really create the essence of winter. Snow also gives you the chance to find tracks wildlife have left so find a well-trodden path and set up nearby. Dawn and dusk are good times to be out but do wrap up warm and take a head torch with you so you can see what you're doing. Pay attention to where the wind is blowing too as wildlife are good at picking up scents.

Do be aware that snow can confuse your camera and you can end up with shots that are underexposed. Keep checking your histogram to make sure the exposure's OK and use exposure compensation if needs be to brighten your shot.

9. Popular Areas

There are places in the UK and right around the world that are more popular than others for wildlife photography. There's nothing wrong with visiting these popular places but please respect the wildlife and don't overcrowd them. You may also want to spend some time finding places you can shoot in closer to home as not only do they stand the chance of not being as popular, you don't have as far to travel which means you can spend longer brushing up on your technique rather than travelling.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

City streets, particularly at this time of year, are an abundance of jewelled lights from traffic, shops, and festive bulbs. Their colour and a good bit of sky detail make city locations perfect for urban winter shoots. Dramatic clouds or the subtle gradation of twilight hues make good backgrounds for winter lights but as the light fades and your background turns black, you can turn your attention to the Bokeh effect to really make your urban work shine.

When out-and-about, focus on your subject from about 10 feet away with a long lens and a wider aperture and your background lights should glow like coloured jewels in the night.

As it's dark you'll be using a slower shutter speed so a tripod or monopod are an essential item. Applying a gentle touch to the shutter button and remembering to take your shot when you've exhaled and not while you're holding your breath will also reduce camera shake and help you produce a shake-free, perfect image. A good lens is always useful too and using a lens with a focal length of 70-200mm or above will help ensure those backgrounds are out of focus and the lights are twinkling.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

Once you're set-up and your picture's framed, take a look at your white balance settings. Auto white balance will work with the majority of these shots but by choosing tungsten balance, any ambient daylight goes a lovely rich blue. It also helps ensure the lights in the background are glowing the colour they're meant to be.

As well as using the Christmas lights, why not use the other lights of the city to create some dynamic images? Illuminated advertising can add an interesting twist to urban portraits and so can reflections. Wet paving stones, wet tarmac and windows are all exciting items to hold reflections. You just have to learn to look for them and incorporate them into your images.

If you're out to shoot specifically winter/festive lights then why not plan your shoot around a Christmas shopping trip or a visit to a Christmas market. There are usually plenty of incentives to wrap up warm, grab a brolly and enjoy a mulled wine and the odd bag of roasted chestnuts, all of which make excellent festive inspired images. You could also grab a window seat in a cafe, order the drinks, then pop out onto the street, shoot a frame or two then back into the warmth. You can also use the cafe as a setting for a few of your shots, using steaming mugs of hot chocolate and coffee to add another level of interest to your portraits. 

 

The low position of the sun in winter makes it a perfect time to shoot silhouettes. You just need to find a bright background (the sky's perfect) and the right subject to give you a shot with series impact.

 

1. Pick A Subject

As there are no textures or tones to grab people's attention strong subjects that are instantly recognisable work the best. In winter, wildlife (deer in particular) work well. Even more so if you're shooting on a cold morning when the breath can be seen in the air. The bare, skeletal-like trees that cover our landscape at this time of year also work well as subjects for winter silhouettes. Higher up, turn rolling hillsides into dark shapes that curve across your shot. Fog can help add interest and contrast to the shot and exposing for the lighter, foggy parts of the shot will give you the silhouetted hillsides you're looking for.
 

2. Adjust Your Exposure

You need a bright background for this technique to work and the sky, particularly when there's a colourful sunrise, works particularly well. You can also use a large expanse of water if you live near a lake or the coast too.

To create a silhouette, expose for the brighter background rather than your subject as by doing so your subject will underexpose, appearing very dark if not fully black. Using the spot or centre-weight light measurement modes on your camera should give you the results you're looking for or you can use exposure compensation and select -1 or -2 to deliberately underexpose your shot.

If you're using a compact camera simply point the camera at the brightest part of the scene you're photographing, press the shutter half way down and don't let go of it. Next, re-frame the shot then press the shutter button the rest of the way to take your shot. This should fool the camera into giving you the exposure you want, but you may have to try exposing from different parts of the image to create the silhouette you're looking for.

3. Focusing Tips

You might want to meter from your background, but you don't want this to be your main point of focus. So, to ensure your main subject is sharp, use a smaller aperture to maximise depth of field. You can also try pre-focusing your shot before you set your exposure or switch to manual focus. If you're using a compact camera try using Landscape mode as this will let the camera know you want to use a small aperture so your shot has front to back sharpness.

 

4. The Sun's Position

Try to position your subject in front of the sun when you're framing up as you should never look through the camera directly at the sun as you can permanently damage your eyes. If you want the sun to be in frame, use the Live View feature so you can frame up safely.

  5. Turn Flash Off

If your flash is set to go off automatically make sure you switch it off otherwise it'll light up your subject and you won't get the silhouette you're looking for.

 

6. Framing Advice 

Don't think you have to fill your frame with your subject as a little space around them will leave room for the brighter, colourful background to show, giving your shot more interest and impact. This is where a wider lens comes in handy as you'll be able to get more of your background in shot. Of course, getting close to a shy animal with a wide-angle lens is easier said than done but you could try putting your camera on a tripod and use a remote release to fire the shutter button. Just remember to focus the camera on a fixed spot before you go into hiding. Having said that, if you're using a long telephoto lens to capture your winter wildlife from a distance you should still have plenty of room around your subject for the lighter background anyway.

ePHOTOzine is delighted to confirm that Samsung will once again support the much-loved Photo of the Week award, celebrating an impressive 11th year of this successful partnership.

Thanks to Samsung’s ongoing commitment, this long-standing collaboration continues to recognise outstanding photography, shining a light on creativity, technical excellence and artistic flair across our community. We’re excited to welcome another year filled with inspiring images.

Samsung continues to inspire the world and shape the future through innovative ideas and cutting-edge technology, and ePHOTOzine is proud to welcome the global electronics brand back as supporter of our prestigious Photo of the Week accolade for the eleventh consecutive year.

We’re pleased to announce that throughout 2026, Samsung will once again reward our Photo of the Week (POTW) winners with its reliable, high-performance memory products. Each weekly winner will receive a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD Adapter, providing fast, dependable storage suitable for a wide range of devices.

The Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card, complete with a full-size SD adapter, is ideal for use with cameras, laptops and more. Compatible with Android smartphones, tablets, action cameras, drones and gaming consoles, PRO Plus is designed to help you capture more, faster and without compromise. With impressive U3, Class 10 read/write speeds of up to 180/130MB/s, transferring and storing large volumes of images is seamless. UHS-I, V30 support ensures smooth 4K video recording, while six-proof protection guards against water, extreme temperatures, X-rays, magnets, drops and wear. The card is backed by a 10-year limited warranty. Further details are available on the Samsung website.

Photo of the Week is selected every week by the ePHOTOzine team. To be in with a chance of winning, simply upload your images to the Gallery.

All 52 weekly winners will then have their images showcased in our POTW forum. In January 2027, the community will be invited to vote by hitting the ‘like’ button on their favourite shots. The ePHOTOzine team will tally the votes and crown the overall Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the top prize: a rugged, ultra-fast 1TB Samsung Portable SSD T7 Shield.

Best of luck to everyone taking part, we look forward to seeing the diverse and inspiring images submitted by our community of photographers each week. Our sincere thanks go to Samsung for its continued and valued support.

 

Photo by David Burleson
  Food plays a big part in the Christmas festivities so why not spend some time capturing some food-filled shots which look good enough to eat! 
  Preparation 

Professional food photographers have stylists and chefs working with them but even though you probably don't have this luxury still make sure you're picky about your food. It doesn't matter if you're photographing vegetables you've bought from the supermarket or mince pies you've baked yourself, make sure you take a good look at your subject and only select the best of the bunch.

A tripod will keep your hands free for adjusting the food in your shot and it'll also ensure your shots are sharp when working indoors with lower light conditions. 
 

Set Your Scene

We are not all lucky enough to have large, light kitchens we can work in but this isn't an excuse to take a messy photo. The odd bowl, spoon or floured rolling pin may work in your image but a table full of objects from everyday life won't. If you don't have much space just fill the frame with your product or use a wide aperture to throw the background out of focus. You could also hide your clutter with a background - something as simple as a coloured piece of card or even wrapping paper can work well. Just frame up correctly so what's behind the background doesn't sneak in from a corner.

You need to think carefully about what you set your food on, too. If you want a clean, simplistic feel go for a white plate while something more colourful can work better for Christmassy food.
 

Use Your Eyes

You're not putting food on a plate to just eat it so make sure you think about how it's presented. Grouping items in odd numbers works well but so does pairs with certain foods and objects. Take a good look around the plate for crumbs and sauce that may have run as too as this will just distract the viewer from your main subject.

Don't automatically shoot your food like you'd sit to eat it. Look for the most interesting angle and work from there. However, there are occasions when shooting directly above can work, such as when creating patterns or working with a particularly distinctive plate. 

Finally, watch your white balance and make sure there's plenty of light – setting up near a large window is a great idea. But avoid using direct flash as it will leave you with food that doesn't look appetising.

For more food photography tips, have a read of this article: 10 Top Tips For Taking Better Photos of Food 

    During the winter months, the sun's low and the sunrise isn't quite as early so you can venture out a little later if you wish. Your local news channel or a quick search online will give you the time of the sunrise. You can just stay in one place, shooting a particular view or scene but taking the time to walk a few steps to find the best angle of your subject is always advised. If you're feeling a little more adventurous plan yourself a route that circles back to where you park your car.

 

1. Kit Requirements

When it comes to kit, a tripod is essential when working with low light levels and make sure you pack the wide-angle lens for capturing sweeping shots of the landscape. A longer zoom won't be out of place either, plus pack a range of filters including grads and a polariser. A graduated neutral density filter would be useful in case you find the sky's a lot lighter than the ground. While a polarising filter will reduce glare and deepen blue skies

If you want to shoot wide vistas with foreground detail use your wide-angle lens while telephotos let you pull in detail and are also excellent at putting objects within their environmental context.

 

 

2. Adapt To Your Conditions

Morning light can be cool sometimes so try using the cloudy or shade white-balance settings on your camera to give the shot a little more warmth. You'll also need longer exposures and this is where your tripod will be useful as you don't want shake spoiling your shots. It will also slow you down, making you stand back and evaluate the scene in front of you.

While you're out early, try capturing a sunrise shot. If the sky was clear the night before there's a good chance you'll be able to capture a cracking sunrise but if a little bit of cloud starts to appear don't worry; it will help diffuse the light. As the sky's bright and the ground's dark your camera may struggle to expose correctly but bracketing can solve this or if you just want to focus on the sun try spot metering. Never look at the sun through the lens, though as there is the risk of eye damage. Instead, make good use of your camera's LiveView feature or just compose with the sun shielded behind something solid.