16 Top Town & City Photography Ideas To Get The Mind Thinking
To give you some inspiration next time you're out in a city with your camera, we've put together a list of 16 top photographic subjects you can find in a city / town, plus links to top tutorials that'll help you perfect your shots of them. But first, let's take a look at some of the kit you may want to consider taking next time you're off for a photography walk around a city's streets. What Gear Will I Need?
Of course, you're going to need a camera and this can be anything from a DSLR to a smaller compact. If you're planning on taking some shots after the sun has set you may want to consider carrying a support, particularly if you're going to be capturing light streaks. Do remember that some locations, such as cathedrals and stations, won't allow you to use a support so do take this into consideration when planning your day.
ND and polarising filters don't take up too much room and could come in useful as too would a variety of lenses if you're not planning on using a compact camera. Consider taking a wide, tele-zoom and macro lens along if you have room in your camera bag for them. When it comes to bag choices, everyone is different so the best advice we can give you is take a bag that's comfortable, will hold all the kit you'll need easily and that's easy to access. Sling style bags are popular in city locations due to how easy it is to access kit without having to remove the bag but an everyday backpack will be just as fine.
What Should I Photograph?
1. You Can't Ignore Architecture
Buildings, old and new, surround our streets so you can't really visit a city and not shoot some building-themed images. Click the link above for more tips on photographing architecture or visit the technique section to see the full list of architecture photography techniques we have on site.
2. Have A Go At Street PhotographyA busy city can be the perfect location to experiment with street portraits, particularly as you can blend into the crowds and shoot from the hip to capture some interesting candids.
3. Photograph A Landmark
Famous landmarks have just one problem – they're famous which means finding a shot of them which isn't already on a thousand other cameras can be difficult but that doesn't mean it's impossible.
4. Get Up High
One of the simplest ways to change the way your city image looks is to get up high. So climb a mountain, stand on some steps or use a lift to get to the top of a tower to give your images a different perspective.
5. Capture Shots Of Traffic & Transport
City streets are busy places with buses, cars, cyclists and more getting from A-to-B giving you ample opportunity to get creative with your transport shots.
6. Get Creative And Add Some Light Trails To Your City Shots
Did you wonder how people get car lights to streak through their images? Well click the above link to find the answers.
7. Photograph A Church, Cathedral Or Other Place of Worship
These structures make great subjects for architectural shots but if the weather turns or you want a break from walking along the streets with your camera gear, the inside of these buildings is well worth capturing, too.
8. Visit A Museum
Museums are not only educational and interesting, but they offer plenty of photographic opportunities. Plus, many are free to enter which is always a bonus! Have a look around the outside of the museums too for interesting architectural shots worth capturing.
[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]
9. Search For Interesting Architectural PatternsStop looking at buildings as whole structures and focus on the small pockets of interesting patterns and shapes they're made up of.
10. Capture Reflections In Buildings
Thanks to modern architecture that favours glass and steel over bricks and mortar cities are full of reflections which give us an alternative way to photograph the places we live in.
11. Photograph A Station
There are few towns and cities that do not have a station and they are fantastic places to take pictures. Interesting architecture, people to capture candids of and close-ups of interesting detail are just some of the shots you can capture around these locations.
12. Look For Stairs And Steps
Stairs may sound a little boring but if you start thinking about the materials they're made from and the shapes and styles that exist, you'll soon realise there's plenty of steps to keep you and your camera occupied.
13. Photograph A Bridge
Bridges come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, plus you can capture them from all angles making them a subject you can spend quite a while on.
14. Spend Some Time By A Canal
Canals were once used to transport goods to towns and cities right across the UK and as a result, there are still plenty of waterways running through our city streets. The long canals, bridges and lock gates that once supplied goods now supply ample photography opportunities and as they all have public walkways, you're not going to upset anyone if you spend an hour two with your camera at the side of one.
15. Go For A Walk In A Town / City Park
The green spaces found in towns and cities are a haven for many and are a great place to take your camera when you want a break from the busy streets.
16. Capture Shots Of Shop Windows & Signs
Spend some time in your town and capture some interesting images of displays and signs. They'll be plenty of interesting signs, plus head back out at night and the shop fronts will have a completely different look to them.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
Westcott Launches the S18 Mini Flash
Westcott has introduced the S18 Mini Flash, a compact and accessible flash for shooters at every level. Weighing just 100 grams, it packs 18Ws of output, a tilting head for bounce flash, and a built-in USB-C rechargeable battery into a pocket-sized package. Small enough to fit in your pocket but powerful enough to get the shot, the S18 is built for photographers who want better light without the hassle.
From Lumesca Group:
Westcott, a leading manufacturer of professional photography lighting equipment, announced the launch of the S18 Mini Flash, a compact flash designed to give photographers of all skill levels a simple, affordable way to take better photos when natural light isn’t enough.
The S18 combines a tilting flash head, 19-step manual power control, and a built-in USB-C rechargeable battery into a package that weighs just 100 g and measures 2.4 x 2.1 x 0.9 inches.
The S18 is designed to remove every barrier that keeps photographers from trying flash for the first time. The price, the size, the simplicity — all of it is intentional. We wanted to create something that delivers real results from the very first shot. – Brandon Heiss, President of Westcott
More Light Where You Need It
The S18 delivers 18Ws of flash output with a Guide Number of 16 (ISO 100), producing significantly more light than the built-in flash found on most cameras. Paired with a native sync speed of 1/250s and recycle times ranging from 0.01 to 2.5 seconds, the S18 is ready for indoor portraits, street photography, events, and low-light scenes where available light falls short.
Bounce Flash or Direct Flash
The S18’s tilting flash head adjusts from -3° to 72°, giving photographers the option to bounce light off ceilings and walls for softer, more flattering results rather than pointing the flash directly at a subject. Multiple optical slave modes support multi-flash configurations for photographers ready to explore more advanced setups.
Built-In Battery with USB-C Charging
The S18 features an internal 3.7V 1250mAh lithium battery that delivers up to 500 full-power flashes per charge and recharges via USB-C in approximately 2.5 hours. The S18 also supports charging while in use, eliminating the need for disposable batteries and keeping photographers shooting through long events and sessions.
Easy to Control
Simple onboard manual controls and a clear display screen provide quick access to all flash settings. Power adjusts across 19 steps in a 7-stop range (3.0–9.0) with 0.3-stop increments, making it straightforward for beginners to learn flash fundamentals while giving more experienced photographers the precision they expect.
Ready to Shoot, Right Out of the BoxThe S18 mounts to most Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm, Panasonic Lumix, Olympus, and Leica cameras via a universal single-pin hot shoe. The kit includes five colour gels (Diffusion, CTO, 1/2-CTO, Yellow, and Red), a travel case, and a USB charging cable.
Availability
The Westcott S18 Mini Flash is available through authorised Westcott retailers and at fjwestcott.com.
5 Top Tips On How To Photograph Bridges
Early morning or late evening light will highlight textures and warmth to the scene but don't overlook bright days either as strong shadows will make statues and other detail stand out from the walls.
If you wait for the sun to go down have a play around with long exposures and capture the light trails created by traffic as it passes you by. Most DSLRs will happily create shutter speeds of 30 seconds but if you want something a little longer you'll need to switch to the B (bulb) setting.
If you do use Bulb mode, keep an eye on your battery life as you don't want it to drain before you've captured your shot. Do remember you'll need your tripod and a remote release is handy if you have one.
If you're shooting on the bridge a wide-angle lens is great for getting interesting foreground detail in the shot. Just remember to use a small aperture so everything in the scene is in focus. A wide is also handy for when you what to shoot the bridge in its surroundings and don't have the space to move back with a telephoto lens. If you can get down to the base of the bridge a wide-angle lens will exaggerate the size of the part closest to you while the distant point of it will look like it's shrinking towards the vanishing point.
If you find you have too much sky and land dominating the landscape shots of your bridges crop in and create a panorama.
3. When Will A Telephoto Lens Be Useful?
When you want to isolate detail pick up your telephoto lens. It's also useful for when you have strong lines to work with such as bridge supports.
4. What Else Can I Photograph On A Bridge?
Bridges, particularly old ones, have interesting detail that's worth a shot or two. Signs, supports, nuts, bolts and even rust can make good images.
5. How Can I Use Bridges Creatively In My Shots?
You can use the bridges that stretch over roads, canals and rivers to frame whatever landscape sits behind it. Just watch your exposure if you do this as it'll be darker under the bridge than it is on either side so bracket if you need to.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
Learn How To Use Frames In Your Photos Successfully With Our 5 Top Tips
1. Why Use A Frame?
Frames are a great tool for drawing attention to an image. Be it a frame we hang on the wall, one we create on the computer, in-camera or with the elements in the scene we are photographing, frames are a very effective tool that all photographers can use.
2. Adding A Frame In-Camera
Frames created while taking your shots will help lead the eye through the shot, add depth to images and help give a photo context. There's also the added bonus of using frames to hide objects you don't want to appear in the shot and they can make your images generally more interesting. They can also be used to give the viewer more information on the location you've taken the shot in.
Windows and archways are obvious choices for frames but tree branches and leaves can also work well. Frames don't have to cover four sides either - one or two branches curving around part of the image can work just as well. It's also worth considering if you want the frame to be in focus or not. If you're at a party, why not use people as your frame to draw attention to a particular person or group? You can also use frames which are positioned towards the back of the shot to frame foreground interest, too.
There are times when creating a frame within your image won't add anything to the shot so do think about your composition and if you really do need a frame before hitting the shutter button. You don't want the frame to pull attention away from your main subject either so do make sure it's not too distracting.
5. Creating A More Traditional Frame
More traditional style frames can be added during Post Production and ePHOTOzine has various tutorials on adding a variety of frame styles to shots in the technique section of the site.
There's also a third option and that's to add a frame to your image in-camera from one of the various creative filter options cameras offer. Apply built-in frames, use vignettes or why not combine multiple shots in one frame?
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards Reveal Major People's Choice Winner
© Alison Tuck / Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards
Nikon is pleased to announce the winner of the STERNA People’s Choice Award in the Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards, with the accolade awarded to Alison Tuck’s highly comical 2025 image titled ‘Now where is my nest?’
The People’s Choice Award is a separate category where the Nikon judging panel takes a back seat and the public gets to decide. The hilarious photo of a windswept gannet in Yorkshire on the Bempton Cliffs was the most popular among public voters, beating forty other jovial images shortlisted in the 2025 Awards.
Alison Tuck says: “Winning the STERNA People’s Choice Award means a lot to me. It was really exciting to get into the finals with my gannet, and I was honoured to get a Highly Commended. However, being awarded this category is something else and I am really grateful to all the people who voted for me - not forgetting to mention how much fun I had - it is the Nikon Wildlife Comedy Awards after all!”
A devout Nikon camera user, Alison loves taking wildlife pictures on her Nikon Z8, which “makes capturing wildlife in motion so easy.” The award also comes with a series of prizes, including a ThinkTANK photography bag, as well as a special print of the image on Hahnemühle matte white paper, courtesy of category sponsor STERNA.
STERNA’s mission it is to highlight the uniqueness of wildlife and nature through creative editing and producing Fine Art Prints.
Alison Tuck continues: “I love taking lots of photos especially of wildlife, from a tiny ant to a large elephant on land, a small crab to an orca whale in the sea or a tiny sun bird to a soaring raptor in the air, they all have their own history to tell within the world and for me capturing their stories is something very special.”
Stefan Maier, Nikon Europe, Senior General Manager Marketing says: “We’re delighted to see Alison Tuck’s image recognised as the People’s Choice Award. It captures a moment of pure, universal humour, reminding us how powerful photography can be. Nikon is proud to be part of the Comedy Wildlife Awards, demonstrating how storytelling through images can entertain, inspire, and bring people closer to nature and remind us of our shared humanity.”
Nikon congratulates Alison and all of the finalists for their excellent nature and wildlife photography. The 2026 Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards is currently open for image and video entries until 30th June. The competition is free to enter for everyone globally through the Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards website. There are numerous categories to enter and a host of spectacular prizes to win including Nikon cameras and lenses for the Nikon-sponsored categories, plus a week’s safari in the Masai Mara with Alex Walker’s Serian for the Overall Winner.
For more information, please visit the Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards website.
Even More Must-Read Flower Photography Tips
As many flower varieties are currently in bloom, now's a perfect time to explore the art of flower photography. In this article, we take a closer look at why shade's important to a flower photographer and how, with a simple bit of card, a photographer can improve his or her flower shots without too much fuss or extra cost. If you're looking for tips on what kit is good for flower photography, advice on angles to shoot from etc., have a look at ePHOTOzine's technique section where you'll find a section dedicated to 'Flowers and Plants'.
Direct sun Taken in shadeCreate Your Own Shade
When it comes to flower photography, it's best to avoid the middle of the day when taking shots of flowers but what do you do if you're in a place you can't return to easily, you see an amazing flower and you look up at the sky and see the sun's too high? Do you shake your head in disappointment and leave the flower behind? No. You get your camera out and create your own shade.
The easiest way to do this is move your body until your shadow's over the flower. But only do this if you're taking a close-up. You don't want a shot of a colourful flowerbed with your shadowy outline sticking right out at you.
If you like shooting blooms on location, you need to consider the background very carefully. Out of focus highlights and objects like fence posts, wheelie bins and people can easily ruin your pictures even with judicious depth-of-field control. Getting around the problem is potentially very simple. Not only that, but you can be creative too.
You can use something purpose-made like a reflector or a store-bought background or create your own from a print or a sheet of card.
Sheets of coloured card work fine but stay away from glossy finishes because there could be reflection problems. Matt, single-coloured card works fine, but you can also be more imaginative and paint or print your own using your photo printer.
To help with keeping the background blurred, produce a blurred background in the first place so you do not have to worry about aperture choice so much when you come to shooting.
Your 'background' does not have to be big either. If you are shooting macro studies, a sheet of A4-size card will do nicely.
Please do note that this approach will not be welcomed everywhere so please do not roll up to an award-winning garden and start setting up your background system. It's also worth remembering that not all botanic gardens allow the use of tripods or at least have restrictions on use so you need to check this before you head off in search of a potential subject. If you plan on sticking to public gardens, heathlands or even your own garden, you won't have to worry.
How you work with your background is up to you. With macro work, it is possible to handhold your camera and the card background behind the subject but it is not comfortable, nor is it great technique. You'll also need faster shutter speeds and focusing can be a challenge. As a result, it's much easier to use a tripod so you can hold the background a little way behind the subject much more easily. If you have a spare tripod or a lighting stand, use that to hold the background in place.
When composing your images just make sure the background fills your viewfinder frame – or at least enough of your subject to allow cropping.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
3 Top Tips On How To Photograph Bluebell Flowers
At springtime our thoughts naturally lean towards flower photography, and none more so than bluebells, either as individual subjects or in carpets of blue. Often, but not exclusively found in woodlands, bluebells offer a magnetic attraction to photographers and as almost anything can be used to photograph them, from wide-angles to long telephotos, compact cameras to full-frame DSLRs, it's something photographers of all levels can have a go at.
1. What Type Of Shots Should I Take?
How you treat them photographically depends on how densely-packed they are growing. In a woodland where they provide a carpet of blue flower heads, wide-angles can exemplify the extent of the blooms, and shooting with a small aperture will give a huge depth of field, rendering all the flowers in focus. A macro lens can hone in on details and individual flowers, wait for an insect to land on a bloom to give added interest.
2. How Can I Focus On Individual Flowers?
Telephoto lenses used at wide apertures can also give a narrow band of sharp bluebells amongst a sea of blur, with telephoto compression adding to the effect. This works best from low viewpoints, often only a few inches above the ground. Or your long lens can be well used to isolate individual flowers from their surrounds; often in a mass of bluebells, there will be some rogue colours – the most common being pink and white – focusing on these with a long telephoto at wide aperture will highlight the different colours, making them stand out among a sea of blue.
3. How Can I Get Creative?
For a different effect, try experimenting with camera movement, by setting a small aperture to enable a long exposure and panning the camera vertically through the exposure. Try smearing petroleum jelly on an old filter (NOT on the lens itself!) and swirl it round to give an abstract effect. You can also leave a clear patch in the middle to give an area of clarity in the picture, amidst a swirl of colour.
So...no excuses...no special equipment needs, just get out there, find some bluebells and interpret them in countless different ways.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
Samsung Launches New T7 microSD and T9 microSD Cards Strengthening Its Removable Storage Lineup
Samsung Electronics today introduced its new T7 and T9 microSD Cards, expanding the company’s removable storage lineup designed for distinct user needs. Built on Samsung’s storage expertise, the new microSD Cards reinforces brand recognition through a more intuitive naming structure and refined design, strengthening the competitiveness of Samsung's Removable Storage.
The T7 microSD Card is an everyday expandable storage for light gamers, intermediate creators and daily users who continue to accrue data across their devices. With massive capacities of up to 1TB, read speeds of up to 170MB/s, and extensive compatibility, the T7 microSD Card is designed to support daily storage needs across devices such as smartphones, laptops, tablets and handheld gaming consoles, delivering a simple and dependable way to expand everyday storage.
The T9 microSD Card is built for users who require relentless performance, such as gaming enthusiasts and professional creators who handle large data files and performance-intensive workloads. Featuring read speeds of up to 200MB/s and 6-proof protection for reliability and broad compatibility, the T9 microSD Card is designed to help users transfer large files quickly and work with confidence, especially on performance-driven devices such as drones and action cameras, as well as smartphones, laptops, tablets and handheld gaming consoles.
With the launch of T7 and T9 microSD cards, as well as the P9 Express, Samsung is evolving its removable storage portfolio from the previous microSD range—comprising of the EVO Plus, PRO Plus, and PRO Ultimate—into a streamlined lineup to unify the brand identity and align the brand experience across Samsung’s removable storage portfolio. The 'T' lineup signifies 'Trustworthiness' and 'P' for 'Peace of Mind,' highlighting the ample storage and powerful performance of Samsung’s removable storage offerings. The rebranding is expected to enhance consumer clarity, allowing for more intuitive and informed product selections based on specific user requirements.
The Samsung T7 microSD Card is offered in 128GB, 256GB, 512GB, and 1TB options, while the T9 microSD is offered in 128GB, 256GB, and 512GB. Manufacturer's suggested retail prices for T7 microSD Card (MSRP) are set at £52.39 for the 128GB, £81.99 for the 256GB, £164.19 for 512GB and £303.29 for the 1TB model. T9 microSD Card starts at £60.89 for the 128GB, £96.59 for the 256GB and £193.29 for the 512GB model, available to consumers from April 14, 2026. Availability may vary by market.
For more information, please visit the Samsung UK website.
Top Spring Flower Photography Tips: How To Photograph Flowers Differently
When you think of flower photography your first thoughts will usually be of shots of a single head taken from an overhead angle or a cropped in shot that focuses on the shapes and colours of the flower. There's nothing wrong with these shots as they do work well but for something different, take a look underneath the flower head.
What Gear Do I Need?
Any camera with a close-up mode will be fine. If you're using a DSLR you'll need a good macro lens and consider using a tripod if you have a model that'll allow you to adjust the centre column and legs so you can work from low angles more easily.
Flowers, where the petals are translucent, will produce better results and if you have a flowerbed that's sheltered from the breeze head for it as if you're working in the open, even the tiniest of breezes can create blur in your final shot. If you don't have any beds hidden behind walls or hedges try using a piece of card to shield the flower from the wind or use a PLAMP to keep it still.
If you're shooting against a blue sky you'll usually need to allow for at least one stop extra exposure otherwise the flower will appear as a silhouette. If you're working against a dark background, such as a hedge, you won't need to do this as the camera shouldn't have any problems getting the exposure correct. Make sure you use the smallest aperture you can too to prevent blur creeping into the edges of your shot.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
What Can I Photograph Close To My Home?
This is something everyone can have a go it. It doesn't matter if you live in a mansion or a flat or usually shoot landscapes or portraits as this will give you the chance to think out of the box a little and really help you improve your photography.
Of course, if you live on the coast or in the Highlands or Lakes, you have got it slightly easier than some. But there are pictures to be captured everywhere, you just have to get out there and find them!
If you really don't fancy shooting near your home pick a location you love or know well and see how only having a few meters to work in will make you think differently.
If you're not travelling far you can set out your full array of lenses on your side and return to pick up what you need although your standard zoom will do a perfectly good job.
If you do have a variety of lenses to pick from your macro lens will be good for giving the ordinary a unique twist while a longer telephoto will get you close to birds in the garden without having to be sat on the branch next to them. If you're out in the garden you may need a tripod when using a longer lens but otherwise working hand-held will be fine.
What To Shoot?
Look at everyday objects differently. See how a fork, TV remote or even a shoelace look close up through a macro lens. Or try setting yourself a little challenge: shoot household objects, certain packets or how about items beginning with a particular letter or number? Try shooting candids of neighbours or how about limiting the number of pictures you take?
You can go on a mini safari in your garden, photograph birds from your window or shoot the flowers that are now decorating our beds. Have a go at photographing micro landscapes on dull days or how about capturing raindrops as they fall down your windows or land on plants? If you don't mind early starts, you can shoot some photos of morning dew or spend some time with your pets, photographing their antics.
As the months warm-up you'll be able to spot Ladybirds to photograph but while the weather's still chilly, why not stay indoors and shoot some still life work: kitchen utensils, cutlery and food.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
Dream Lens for LCE Photographer of the Year 2026 Winner
Fish Eyes by Sophia Spurgin
Winner of the 2026 London Camera Exchange Photographer of the Year, Sophia Spurgin, has today collected a Canon RF 400mm prime lens from the LCE team at their Strand, London store. Sophia beat 14,500 entrants to take top honour in this year’s competition with her stunning image ‘Fish Eyes’ captured on a trip to Vietnam on a Canon EOS R5 Mark II camera.
A retired teacher from Hertfordshire, Sophia is a keen outdoor photographer, and the Canon RF 400mm F2.8L IS USM was top of her wish list. A super-telephoto model offering a fast f/2.8 aperture, exceptional portability and optical IS, the RF 400mm is an outstanding low-light performer, perfect for wildlife, sports and action photography. The much sought after lens is rarely in stock at UK retailers and required shipping directly from Canon in Japan.
Sophia Spurgin commented, “I’ve never owned a lens of such quality and wanted to mark my win with something significant. I had never considered prime lenses previously, but now I’ve been able to obtain this incredible equipment thanks to LCE. I’m looking forward to testing it out during my travels this year.”
Sophia Spurgin, LCE Photographer of the Year 2026 overall winner, holds her grand prize, the Canon RF 400mm f2.8L IS USM lens. © London Camera Exchange
LCE POTY comprises 14 different categories including the publicly voted ‘People’s Choice’ and ‘Emerging Talent’ dedicated to photography students. Sophia was shortlisted in three categories and was crowned winner of both the Travel category with ‘Fish Eyes’ and Wildlife category with
‘Fighting Foxes in the Rain’ – as well as taking first place in the overall competition. She scooped a total of £3,500 in LCE vouchers, to spend on equipment of her choice.
Lee Harasyn, managing director of LCE, commented, “We’re thrilled that Sophia has been able to acquire her dream lens as a result of winning LCE Photographer of the Year 2026, and can take the next step up in her hugely successful photographic journey. We hope she’ll inspire others to enter the competition next year and we can’t wait to see the images she’ll capture with this fantastic piece of kit.”
The LCE POTY 2026 Awards were presented in a ceremony at The Photography & Video Show at the NEC, Birmingham. A gallery showcasing the finalists’ images was located close to the show’s entrance and many of the shortlisted images were included in a special edition commemorative book. Winners received a share of the £10,000 prize fund and a unique trophy to take home. There are plans to tour the images at other locations around the UK this year.
For more information, please visit the LCE POTY website.
About London Camera Exchange
Founded in Guildford in 1956, London Camera Exchange is an employee-owned business and is celebrating its 70th anniversary in 2026. With 26 high street stores nationwide, the company delivers award-winning service and impartial expert advice. LCE stocks an extensive range of cameras, lenses and optical gear from top brands – and is the go-to destination for trading in or upgrading photographic equipment. Whether visiting in-store or online, LCE’s dedicated team is always on hand to help customers capture their next great shot.
5 Top Tips On Photographing Stained Glass Windows
1. What Gear Will I Need?
- Telephoto zoom lens – Gets you close to the window without having to climb a ladder
- Wide-angle lens – Useful for when the window's particularly large
- Tripod – In dark churches you need a sturdy tripod
- Remote release – minimise shake
2. Support
When you walk through the doors of a church you instantly notice how dark the interior is and as flash is banned from most historical buildings you'll be relying on long exposures to get your shot. As a result, a tripod and remote release are essential pieces of kit but if you're out for the day with the family and didn't plan on stumbling across a stained glass window you just had to photograph you need to look for a wall you can put your camera on or find a pillar you can rest against while you take your shot. Just remember to keep your arms tucked into your body and hold your breath while you fire the shutter to minimise shake.
Not all churches will allow photographers to use tripods or if they do there may be a fee so it's best to double-check before you start taking your shots.
In an ideal world, you'd be able to use a ladder or even scaffolding to get you directly in line with the window to minimise distortion but as people would be a little upset if you started erecting poles in the middle of a church, you need to find a spot further back from the window and use a longer lens to zoom into the stained glass. If you can't find a position that lines you up with the centre of the window take the shot anyway as you can edit this as well as problems with converging verticals once you're back home.
Some stained glass windows are so big that even with a wide-angle lens you can't get the whole window in-frame. You can take several shots of the window and stitch the images together when you're back home or you could forget about the big picture and focus in on the colourful detail.
Due to the size of the window and as you'll be looking up at them you will probably need a small aperture to ensure everything from the bottom to the top of the window is in focus.
A bright window surrounded by dark interiors will confuse the camera's exposure system and you'll either get a shot where the window is too bright as the camera has compensated for the surroundings or a shot of a perfectly exposed window with black surroundings as the camera has taken its reading from the window light. One way to solve this problem is to take two shots, one exposed for the window and the other for the surroundings, then once you're back home you combine them to make one perfectly exposed shot. You must use a tripod and ensure the camera doesn't move if you do this as the slightest of nudges will mean the final shots don't line up correctly.
If you don't want to include any of the building's structure in the shot you can usually rely on the camera to meter correctly unless it's a really sunny day then you'll need to use exposure compensation.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
Top 10 Best Portrait Photography Tips
Portrait photography is a very popular subject and with so many ways you can capture a brilliant photo of a person, it's easy to see why it's one of the most uploaded genres to the ePHOTOzine Gallery. From capturing images outdoors with natural light to indoor shoots with a full lighting set-up, close-ups, candids and professional model shoots, there are plenty of themes and methods to keep a photographer occupied!
To get you off on the right path, we've put together 10 top tips all on portrait photography and, please, if you have any top tips of your own, we'd love to see them in the comments below.
[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]
1. Look Your Subject In The EyeMake sure the eyes are sharp and breathe more life into your shot by adding catchlights into the eyes.
If you're photographing children get down to their eye level. This leads to a more natural posture as they don't have to look up. The shot will also be more personal and intimate, particularly if you crop in close so they're looking directly out of the frame.
2. Simple Backgrounds
Take a good look around your shot before you hit the shutter button. Make sure there are no lampposts growing out of your subject's head and that cars or rubbish bins aren't stealing your attention. Plain backgrounds will always work best, as they help place emphasis on your subject, however you can't always find a plain wall to take your shots against so make use of your camera's wider apertures and throw the distracting background out of focus.
3. Use Flash Outside
Bright sunlight will create ugly shadows on your subject's face so use a pop of flash to eliminate them. Try using the flash from the side as this will give the image more dimension. While on cloudy days you can leave your flash in your camera bag as the soft, diffused light the clouds help create is perfect for portraiture work.
For more tips on using flash outdoors take a look at our previous article – flash outdoors.
4. Play With Backlight
By placing the sun, window or studio light behind your subject you'll be able to create hair/rim light that lights the edge of your subject. This can really make your subject 'pop' out of the image as the outline of light acts as an extra layer keeping your subject separate from the background.
5. Be A Director
Most people won't know what pose works best or what light works where so make sure you talk to them, giving direction when needed. If you make the effort to have a conversion they'll become more relaxed in front of the camera too.
6. Don't Centre Everything
Standing centre stage may work for an actor but off the boards and in a photo that's not cropped you want your subject to be slightly to the left or right of the shot. This gives the shot a more pleasing perspective and interest. If your subject's not looking directly into the lens give your subject room to look into and if they're moving through the shot make sure there's space for them to step, run or cycle into.
Imagine a rule of thirds board that looks similar to a naughts and crosses board sat over your scene can help with composition. Take a look at our rule of thirds advice.
7. Create Candids
Candids are shots of people who aren't posed. This could be children playing with their toys, a groom chatting to his new bride quietly in a corner or your mum making a cup of tea. The key to candids is not taking your shot straight away. Wait until the person you're photographing has forgotten about the camera so they're focused on their activity before you take your shot. If you're out on a planned shoot try taking a few photos while you're on a break as your subject won't feel as self-conscious and you'll be able to capture a few natural-looking shots.
If you're working with children make sure they're having fun because the minute they get bored they'll turn unco-operative. Don't forget the odd prop such as balls and sweets. They'll rarely get turned down and they'll soon have them so occupied they'll have forgotten you're there with your camera.
8. Make A Frame
When something gets in the way of your shot the first thing you think to do is move but this isn't always necessary. Finding spots where branches, walls, fences, flowers and other objects can add colour and interest to your composition by creating a frame. Just remember to use a longer focal length to blur your frame so all focus still falls on your subject.
9. Get Closer To Your Subject
Using longer zoom lenses will let you crop tighter on your subject without distortion or having to invade their personal space. This bit of extra space will leave your sitter more relaxed and as a result, you'll end up with a more pleasant portrait. As well as having a pleasing perspective your shot's background will be nicely thrown out of focus, even if you're using a smallish aperture and your backdrops only a few feet behind your subject.
Filling the frame with your subject will create a shot that has more impact, is more intimate and if you're using a longer lens, it will help flatter their features for a more pleasing shot.
10. Shoot Reflections And Silhouettes
Your subject's reflection will give you an image that's more visually interesting. For example, getting your subject to place their hands and head on a table with a reflective surface will add depth to a shot. Be creative with the surfaces you use and look for walls and objects that are reflective as well as using the more obvious reflective surfaces such as puddles and glass.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Daily Competition
3 Top Tips On Controlling And Using Flare In Your Photographs
If you've ever taken photographs with the sun in front of you, you're likely to have experience flare, which probably spoilt your photograph. However, there are several things you can do to remove it or if you're feeling creative, you can use it in your shots to add a little romanticism, mystery and warmth to your work.
[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK]
1. What Is Flare?Flare is caused by direct light entering the lens, which then bounces around the glass elements causing a reduction in the photograph's contrast. Sometimes this will just make the picture look washed out and lacking vibrant colours, but often you would also see a series of coloured shapes across the photo. The shape is an image of the lens' aperture or diaphragm and will often be hexagonal. This is joined with streaks of coloured light crossing the picture. Modern lenses have multicoated lens elements and are designed to reduce flare but even with the most expensive products, it can still occur.
The easy way to prevent flare is to shoot with your back to the sun - a method that was always suggested in camera manuals before multicoated optics. The trouble with this suggestion is that there are many occasions when you cannot control where the sun is in relation to your subject. It's easy, for example, to ask a person to turn direction or change the angle that you shoot a flower from, but try shooting a castle on a hilltop or boat out at sea and you're usually stuck with no other choice than to face the sun.
Fortunately, there are things that can be done. First, make sure the sun is at least out of the frame. If this is not possible to adjust the position so that a nearby building or tree shields the sun from the camera position. Alternatively, shield the lens from the sun using your hand or a piece of card. Take care to avoid this creeping into the frame. Better still, use a lens hood.
3. What If I Want To Use Flare In My Shot?
It's easier to get flare with less expensive lenses and be prepared to work lower to the ground, laying down if it's needed to get the sun in the right position. Remember, you're trying to get the camera to do something it's designed not to do so work in manual and trust your own judgement as your camera will keep telling you your shot is blown out. Position yourself so you're shooting into the sun, just before it starts setting and remember to adjust your exposure so your subject doesn't come out as a silhouette. Don't be afraid to use overexposed backgrounds as this will add to the effect and switch to manual focus if your lens keeps searching for a focus point, which it might do as the background will be the lightest part of your shot so it probably won't want to focus on your subject. If you want to shoot some indoor portraits this technique works just as well with your subject positioned against a window or patio doors.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
Southport Pier at Twilight with Dramatic Skies Wins POTW Award
Captured during a quiet evening on the coast, Tranquil Twilight by kenwil shows Southport Pier reaching out over the still, shallow water at dusk. The low tide sets the stage, but the real magic is the way the sky reflects perfectly on the wet sand. The vivid sunset light breaks through at the horizon, cutting through the heavy, dark clouds above. The curved lamp posts along the pier lead you right to the pavilion at the end, making for an excellent composition that feels incredibly balanced. All together, it’s a beautiful coastal shot that really nails the peaceful yet moody feel of twilight.
Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!
10 Top Flower Photography Tutorials To Help You Perfect Your Floral Photography
Make the most of the flowers currently in bloom and have a go at a bit of creative flower photography. Below you'll find links to flower photography tutorials with advice on using macro lenses, dealing with messy backgrounds, working on a budget and for when the weather turns, tips on photographing flowers indoors. Each feature also has a picture-perfect flower shot next to it for inspiration - enjoy!
1. Backlighting Flowers For Photography
2. Four Ways To Shoot More 'Arty' Themed Flower Images
3. Flowers - An Alternative Approach
4. Six Outdoor Flower Photography Tips Every Compact User Needs
5. 3 Top Tips To Improve Bluebell Photography
6. Abstract Flower Photography Tips
7. 10 Top Tips On Photographing Daffodils
8. Take Better Photos Of Public Gardens With These 5 Tips
9. Eight Techniques To Improve Your Garden Photos
10. 4 Essential Tips On Photographing Snowdrops
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
4 Simple Ways To Ensure Horizons Are Straight In Your Landscape Shots
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
How To Capture Mood In Your Photos With The Help Of Amazing Skies
What Is Mood?
Mood essentially relates to the lighting in a shot. Giving something mood usually means we are trying to make it dark and brooding – making it moody. But mood can relate to any lighting situation, to give your photo any mood/feeling.
For landscape photography, mood usually relates to the weather. A cloudy, unsettled day will create mood in a way most of us expect it to be - dark and brooding. Although the opposite, where streaks of the sun break through the cloud to shine light on parts of the green landscape is equally as good, it's just the mood/feeling is different.
Gear Choices
To take good moody landscapes, you're going to need a tripod as dark days may be good for the style of shot you're trying to create but the lack of light can lead to slower shutter speeds and working without a tripod can result in shake.
Be Patient
This type of photography requires patience. To get the best shots, you need to wait until there is a break in the weather to get some really interesting lighting effects from the turbulent sky. Of course, mood doesn't have to be cloudy, but with landscapes, it's more of a challenge to portray mood on bright, sunny, cloudless days.
When the right light does arrive, work quickly as it can be gone again before you know it. The key to this is always to be ready, having your gear out and framing in-mind before the right light does show its face.
Check the weather forecast the night before as there's no point heading out if you find the weather isn't going to be right. You also need to have the right type of location as you'll find some subjects will work better in dark, moody shots than others.
Convert Your Shots
Black and white is another way to create mood in your photography. Taking photos of a gnarly tree, for example, in black and white will look so much more foreboding than a shot in colour. You can shoot black and white in-camera although, if you shoot in colour, you can convert your shots to black and white in your chosen editing software, giving you more control over the tones, highlights and shadows in the shot.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition
ePHOTOzine Daily Theme Winners Week 3 April 2026
[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|229889|3847697[/COMMENT_IMG]
The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to TheShaker (Day 18- Weather).
Daily Theme Runners-Up
If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A.
Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.
Day 17People In The Landscapes
[COMMENT_IMG]direct|336842|336842_1776410942.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]
Day 19
Lighthouses
[COMMENT_IMG]direct|344708|344708_1776629761.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]
Day 20
Numbers & Letters
[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|98542|2491291[/COMMENT_IMG]
Day 21
'Arty' Theme
[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|324638|3916168[/COMMENT_IMG]
Day 22'Fun' Theme
[COMMENT_IMG]direct|44488|44488_1776845615.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]
Day 23
Flotsam
[COMMENT_IMG]direct|332115|332115_1776928371.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]
You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.
6 Top Tips On How To Photograph Boats
Due to the size of the UK, we're usually not a million miles from the coast where you'll find fishing boats and tourist boats galore to photograph. Further inland, there are rivers with boats, canal and inland waterways or even water-sports centre where you can capture action-packed images as well as shots of pedalos and canoes.
1. What Kit Should I Choose?
For most boat photography a standard zoom of the 35-80mm range is fine. It's usually wide enough to get the whole boat in shot and long enough to crop in on sails, hull, lifebuoy on the side or other finer detail. You may prefer a longer lens 80-200mm if the boat is further away or to shoot small detail like mini flags, portraits of crew etc. and a lens with a close focus ability is good for detail in ropes, paintwork etc. when the boat is moored.
A polarising filter is a must to ensure reflections are reduced on the paintwork and to deepen a blue sky and cut down on reflections in the water. A graduated filter is useful if the boats are set against a bright sky, although watch for darkening of the mast and upper sails on yachts and such like.
If you plan on shooting panoramic photos of harbours and marinas, pack your tripod.
2. Head To A Harbour
Harbours conjure up picturesque scenes with colourful boats offset against beautiful blue skies, reflected in the waters below. To get this sort of picture you need a sunny day with still waters. Use a polarising filter to make the colours more saturated and choose viewpoints without too much clutter. A single boat in the foreground makes a more impressive shot than one where several boats are fighting for your attention.
3. Wait For The Tide
As the tide goes out you can photograph moored boats grounded in mud, or on the beach. Use the mooring ropes as a lead-in up through the photo. A small aperture is needed to ensure everything from the front of the rope to the distant boat is sharp. Shots will be more dramatic if you shoot from a low angle and include a brooding sky. Use a graduated grey or ND filter to darken the sky.
4. Walk Along A River Bank
If you aren't near a coastal location you may have a river running nearby that has boats on it. You may get sailing boats, small cargo boats, river authority working boats or even barges. There will usually be speed limits of around 5mph which means that you don't need to worry about panning skills or the need for ultra-fast shutter speeds to shoot boats on rivers. For more impact shoot from a low angle (at the side of the river on a low bank point is best). Try to include interesting landmarks in the background, trees or the odd building at the edge of the frame to hold the viewer inside that frame and focused on the boat.
If there's a bridge find a position where you can use that as a frame as the boat passes under, but watch the exposure. The light under the bridge will be lower than the outside so it's easy to underexpose if your meter picks up the brighter area as the important part. Switch to spot metering where possible and take a meter reading from the sidewall of the bridge and use that as the starting point.
5. Make A Canal Your Focus
Canals run through many countries too. With these, you not only have boats to photograph but also the activities surrounding them. Barges are usually hand-painted and are very colourful. They often have matching watering cans or flower pots that are crying out to be photographed. Shoot with a telephoto and wide aperture to blur the background. Focus on small areas of paintwork for patterns and interesting window displays. Find a spot where there's a lock and then you can photograph the activity as the barge is taken to the next water level.
6. Interested In Watersports?
For those who prefer a little more action consider a day out at a water-sports centre. These locations are usually on man-made lakes around the country and offer sports enthusiasts opportunities to sail, water-ski or jet-ski. It's at these locations where you can shoot the speed. For the best results, it helps if you pan with the craft.
Experiment with the shutter speed to get the right amount of motion. Follow the boats and shoot as it reaches a central point of your pan. This will blur the background but if you are keeping at the same speed as the boat as you pan it will be sharp. Try to avoid moving the camera up or down as you pan.
Some have rapids for canoeing. here a fast shutter speed can be used to get the water droplets frozen as they splash around the canoe. Take shots as the canoeist comes up from a 360 roll water will be dripping off his face and he's likely to have a great air gasping expression.
You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition