DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

Head to the coast on a sunny day or even to your local reservoir and you'll probably find someone skimming along the water, holding onto a sail fasted to a windsurf board or getting pulled along by a boat on a board. The pros make it look easy and their jumps, turns and sheer speed make water sports a great photographic subject.

  1. Kit Choices If you're not up for getting your feet wet you'll need a long telephoto to bring the action to you. A monopod or tripod can also be handy, but not everyone finds them useful, especially when you're panning at quite fast speeds.

For those of you who don't mind braving cold, British water get your wetsuit on to get right in among the action. Here, you can use a slightly shorter lens or even a fisheye to capture some unusual action shots. However, if you're new to this type of photography it's worth sticking with a slightly longer focal length, around 100mm, to keep a safe amount of distance between you and the action. Wides also work well when you want to give your shots context but your subject may look a little small in the frame if you use them on-shore so do check your frame and switch lenses if this is the case.

If you do want to head out into the waves please always think about safety and make sure you can be clearly seen by those on land as well as the sailors around you. Don't get in anyone's way and always be aware of your surroundings.

You'll also need a waterproof camera or waterproof housing for your camera that doesn't like getting wet. If you plan on leaving your camera bag near the shore make sure it's fastened up and if you have one, put a waterproof cover on it to stop spray and water that comes off the windsurfers as they exit the water getting on your not so water-friendly kit. Remember to test your waterproof housing without your kit in it to start to make sure there are no leaks and when you do put your camera inside it, place it in shallow water first before heading out deeper just to double-check the seals etc. are working correctly.

If you're heading to the beach to capture shots of surfers rather than spending some time by your local reservoir, try not to change lenses on the sand as you don't want grains getting inside your kit.

 

2. Speed & Action

Windsurfing and other water sports tend to have quite a lot of pace and action which does mean there's plenty to photograph but as bad light, bad weather and the speed at which they move at makes life difficult, it can be tricky to get a perfect shot.

If you've not photographed this kind of subject before try to find a reservoir where beginners practise as these will be moving at a slower pace so will be easier to keep up with. It's also worth focusing and tracking one individual rather than moving your focus from one person to another and while doing so, try not to get others in-frame who may full attention from your main subject.

If you do want to go after the pros you'll need to crank your shutter speeds up to freeze their movement and have your panning perfected before you arrive so you can keep them in shot. Shutter speeds of 1/100 and above are often needed to capture action in your frame and it's worth switching to continuous shooting mode to increase your chances of capturing that perfect action shot. Auto-focus can work so long as it's continuously tracking your subject and try to leave room for your subject to ride into.

If you want to add an extra sense of pace to your photos try selecting a slightly slower shutter speed (half a second should be enough) and pan at the same speed your subject is moving at to blur the background. You could combine the slower shutter speed panning technique with a pop of flash to freeze your subject against a nicely out of focus, blurred background that will enhance the feeling of speed in your shot.

 

Photo by Josh Waller 

 

3. Framing Advice

Always make sure you've filled the frame as unless there's something interesting such as a giant wave they're jumping, a tiny person in the middle of a mass of water's not really interesting and they'll be completely lost in the image. Watch out for wonky horizons too, although these are quite easily corrected in post-production once you're back home and consider shooting in a vertical as well as a horizontal format when the scene suits it.

  4. Metering Tips

Keep an eye on your metering when you're on the edge or out in the water as a bright sky and reflections off the water can confuse the camera into thinking it's brighter than it is and you'll end up with an underexposed image. It's worth checking your histogram and using the highlight clipping feature on your camera to ensure your shot isn't overexposed. You may also want to consider using exposure compensation and dialling down to a negative figure to balance the exposure correctly.

If you happen to be out on a day when the light's really bad your images can look flat and lose impact. However, if you focus your attention more on showing the big waves and cropping in close to show the huge amounts of spray coming off the boards you can still get some decent images.

  5. On Shore

Not everyone will have the kit needed to capture action shots and if this is the case for you, just re-think the shots you're taking and focus your attention onshore. People entering/exiting the water, riders getting kit ready and putting wetsuits on are just a few of the things you can capture without the need for a long lens or getting your feet wet and they can be just as interesting as the shots of the water.

 

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Once you have your tourist, postcard style shots, spend a few hours of your vacation time thinking about how you can do things a little bit differently. (Yes, we know we are talking about not doing this but the reason everyone takes these shots is that they do actually look good, most of the time. Just remember to get up early or stay out late to miss the rush of tourists so you stand a better chance of capturing people-free shots.)
 

1. Use It As A Secondary Point Of Interest

Instead of making the landmark your main point of focus, place another object in the foreground and use the landmark as background detail for your shot. You could use a larger aperture to throw it slightly out of focus but don't go too wide as you still want the landmark to be recognisable. For shots with plenty of depth of field, think like a landscape photographer, standing further back from your landmark so you can add interest in the foreground as well as the middle and background of the shot.

 

2. Find A New Angle

This is an obvious point that's also easier said than done sometimes but even the smallest change in composition can make a big difference to the shot. Try blurring foliage into an out of focus frame, shoot through a window or arch or look for objects your landmark can be reflected in. Shooting down into a puddle of water, particularly on a moody, wet day will give any landmark photo an interesting twist while switching from a wide lens to telephoto so you can crop in will give you a shot that's ever so subtly different but yet, still recognisable to those back home.

Watch for where the crowds go and head off in a different direction, looking for new vantage points to shoot from. This could mean climbing to get above it or trying to get lower to shoot from nearer the ground. We can't guarantee you won't get any funny looks but you should walk away with a set of unique shots. 

 

 

3. Get In Close

As landmarks are well known you don't have to get the whole structure in the frame for people to know what it is. The blue/green shade of the Statue of Liberty will be recognisable no matter how close you zoom in. In fact, the shapes created to form drapes in the statue's clothing could create an interesting abstract shot if you have a lens that can get you close enough.

 

4. Head Out When Other's Don't

A cloudy, rainy day will put most sight-seers off and you should take advantage of this. They'll be less bad weather shots than there are scenes with blue sky and sun. Rainy days also mean you can shoot reflections (as mentioned above). Just remember to protect your equipment as unless it's waterproof, it won't like the rain.

 

 

5. Human Interest

We said above to head out early/late to avoid crowds but including one or two people can give your landmark shot a new angle. By adding people, street vendors setting up near the landmark or people sweeping away rubbish, you add a new level of interest to what would be 'just another tourist shot'. As people have a habit of stopping what they're doing and either grinning or frowning when they see a camera pointed at them you may need to work more like a street photographer to get shots where your subject isn't posed. 

   

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An image taken by ePz member Scottjessuk and titled 'Pink Mornings' was chosen as our POTW winner.

It is a lovely landscape that captures the peace and quiet of an early morning visit. This serene shot of anchored boats has all the elements you need for a perfect calm outdoor image, with still water that mirrors both the boats and the sky above to keep everything balanced. The two anchored boats make for a striking subject, their hulls contrasting softly against the gentle water. The mist rolling across the scene adds to the atmospheric quality, whilst the purple and pink tones cast across everything bring real serenity to the image. It is clearly a location that rewards patience and the right conditions, and this shot certainly demonstrates both.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

1. What Is It?

Environmental portrait photography has nothing to to with global warming or looking after the planet. It is all about photographing your subject in their natural environment. This can be anywhere from where they work, where they live, or anywhere where they like to spend their time. It is all about portraying something of the character of your subject through where they are in the photo.

 

2. Find A Location

It can be difficult to set up a shot properly with environmental photography. But persevere until you find the perfect location for your subject, and you will be rewarded. So how is the perfect destination for a shot found? Firstly, you have to get to know your subject. You need to find out what they like to do in their spare time, what their hobbies are, where they enjoy going etc. When you know this, you can then add together what you have found out to place them in their own perfect photographic location, which also portrays who they are as a person. Think of it as a candid shoot with a studio approach when it comes to some of your shooting and the setting up of the scene.

 

3. Backgrounds

There should be some background detail, to add character to a picture, but not so much that it overpowers the presence of the person in the shot. The idea behind this method of photography is that the background subtly adds to the feel of the portrait yet does not become the main feature. If you find the background to be too distracting, try using a wider aperture to blur the background so you can still make out what's there but the eye is immediately drawn to the person instead. You could also try cropping the shot when you're back at your computer or simply move your subject to a place where the background isn't so distracting. Remember, you want your location to relate to your subject and add interest to the shot without actually pulling attention away from your main point of focus.

 

4. What To Wear

You want your subject to be relaxed and comfortable so don't dress them in something that will make them uncomfortable. Keeping their hands busy is a good way to distract them so bring along some props, so long as they fit the theme and don't distract the viewer's attention too much.

 

5. How To Pose

Posing your subject but still getting them to look natural so it looks almost candid takes some work but with directions and guidance from you, your subject should find a pose that works in no time. Try to make them as relaxed as possible as any tension will be visible on their face. A simple chat will help ease their worries so you're then free to ask them to create whatever expression suits the scene you're working with.

This technique can be challenging at times, but once you get used to the methods of taking environmental photos, you will love the results it gives you. A lot of photographers love it because it is more than a picture, it's an insight into someone's personality and life. Why not have a go yourself, and see what amazing and expressive results you can achieve?

 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Arkwright (Day 1 - 'Creative Portraiture').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 2

Coastal Landscapes

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Day 3

The Night Sky

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Day 4

Zoom Burst

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Day 5

Fancy Dress

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  Day 6

Birds Of Prey

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Day 7

Festivals

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Day 8

Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Mike43 (Day 18 - 'Panoramics').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 16

Vignettes

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Day 17

Silhouettes

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Day 19

'Blue' Theme

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Day 20

Beach Huts In The Landscape

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  Day 21

Nature In The Summer

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Day 22

Insects

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

  Fields make great photographic subjects and better still if you play around with slow shutter speeds you don't need particularly good weather to get great photos which is good news for us Brits who quite often don't see the summer sun (although this year we are doing a little better in the sun stakes!). Some farmers have started harvesting their crops, but there are still some fields out there which the tractor hasn't reached yet.    1. Use A Wide-Angle Lens

A wide-angle lens will be the most useful bit of kit you take with you.Don't own a wide-angle lens? Take your telezoom along and just stand a little further back to get your sweeping shots of the field. 

 

2. Don't Trespass 

Make sure you're not trespassing so if there's no public access through a particular field you want to photograph stay out if it and use your telephoto.

 

3. Take Your Tripod

When using slower shutter speeds (try 1/15-1/5th or longer depending on how windy it is) you'll need a tripod as you don't want shake creeping into your shot. 

 

4. Straight Horizons

To get your horizon straight, you either need a really good eye or something to help you measure it. Some cameras have inbuilt levelling systems but if yours doesn't, you can get a spirit level that sits on the camera's hotshoe. Although, you can find in-built spirit levels on many tripod models.

 

5. Take Your Filters Along

Pack an ND filter in case the sky's a little too bright and you need to balance the exposure. 

 

6. Aperture Choices

Use a small aperture to get front to back sharpness, so you can show the whole field turning into a sea of waves.

 

7. Create Interest 

Add interest to the shot by looking out for objects such as a single tree standing at the far end of the field or a barn that will give the viewer something to focus on.

 

 

8. Guide The Eye

If there are tractor tracks use them to guide the eye from front to back. Hedges and fences can also be used for this purpose, too.

 

9. Use Frames

If there are overhanging tree branches, gate posts or if you happen to stumble across an old barn without glass in its windows or any doors, have a play around with frames in your shots to add an extra level of interest, plus they can help focus the viewer's eye when used in the correct way

 

10. Clouds Are Good

Golden light diffused by a light blanket of cloud looks great shimmering across the crop.

 

11. Photography The Sun

Clouds lower contrast and help eliminate flare which means you can shoot into the sun. Just don't look directly at it through your lens as it can cause serious damage to your eyes.

 

12. Rain Isn't A Bad Thing

Shoot in different weather conditions and at different times of the day as a dark, heavy sky full of rain adds drama to your shots while the warmer light and colours of a sunrise or sunset will make the field glow.

 

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    1. Research

Before you leave your hotel, make sure the market's open and have a quick glance at the weather forecast as it won't be much fun walking around a market when it's raining rather heavy. Although fewer people will venture out to open-air markets when it's wet so you'll have more room to work. If you're going on a market trip that's organised by an excursion company you won't have much say in when you can visit the market. Plan your own trip, however, and you can arrive for when it opens, giving you more room to work and the produce will be fresher which means your shots will look more appetising. If it is really, really busy step back or find a higher spot to work from and shot a few wide shots of the hustle and bustle.
 

2. Be aware of your surroundings

Don't leave your camera bag unattended and if it's really busy, it's a good idea to do the tourist trick of spinning your bag to your front. Yes, you may look a little silly but it's better than finding all of your gear's gone from your bag. Taking a bag that doesn't scream: 'look I'm carrying expensive equipment' is a good idea too. 

It's important not to get distracted by one particular stall either. Market's are generally big places and they'll be more than one location that's worth getting your camera out of its bag for.

 

 

3. Light Source

As most markets you find on your travels will be outdoors you'll need to watch your exposure as the contrast between a stall which will probably be undercover and the open space around can change drastically. As a result, your camera will see the bright surroundings and underexpose the shot, making the stall appear a lot darker than it actually is. You may find using the exposure lock function and then re-composing as necessary should fix the problems that may occur. If you're indoors exposure shouldn't be a problem but you will need to watch your white balance to make sure the lights aren't tinting the tone of your image.

When it comes to flash, it's best to avoid using it, particularly as you most likely will only have the one that's built into your camera and the harshness of it can ruin the atmosphere of the scene you're trying to capture. You're better off just using a slightly ISO and getting the monopod out if you have problems with shake.
 

3. Wider Shots

Stepping away from the cover of the stalls to somewhere higher up, if possible, will give you the chance to shoot some shots that establish exactly where you are. If it's in a square surrounded by buildings try and get these in your shot and use the long lines created by the stalls to lead the eye through the image too.

4. Close-Ups

The beauty with markets is the stallholder wants to sell their products so usually they present them well, which means all you have to do is take the shot. Look out for colours that complement each other, interesting patterns and the textures on offer in the products on display.
 

5. People

If you want to shoot portraits always ask before you take your photos, be polite and don't get in the stall holder's way. If they say no don't argue and keep pushing as this will only annoy them and you'll probably find someone else will be more than happy for you to take their photo on another stall. If you're finding communication's a problem a big smile and holding your camera up can often get your message across quite easily.
 

 

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Photo by David Pritchard

 

Head to ponds, lakes and rivers and chances are, you'll soon spot Damselflies and Dragonflies which make interesting subjects for a macro image. If you do want to have a go at capturing these flying insects in your shots ideally, you'll need a macro lens but a longer zoom with a macro function at the longer end will also work fine, especially when coupled with extension tubes. Approach slowly, and start taking pictures from a distance so if they do fly off, at least you've got a few images saved to your memory card. It can be easier to capture images of these insects from a higher angle, looking down on the subject but do try shooting side-on, too. 

These characters aren’t the easiest to catch on camera, but a reasonable shutter speed combined with a small maximum aperture will make tracking your subject easier. You also really need to know your equipment well otherwise you could miss a shot searching for a dial/function so do remember to examine your equipment carefully, even more so if it's a new piece of kit. 

Take the time to pick a background carefully because even though you'll be throwing it out of focus, a busy background will still be distracting.

Below you'll find more tips along with a selection of dragonfly and damselfly images taken by ePHOTOzine member David Pritchard. 

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

"I used a 20mm extension tube for this shot, so that I could get higher magnification from a greater distance. That was important for two reasons; firstly, this pair of damselflies were very skittish and secondly, they were perched over water. I couldn’t have got closer if I had wanted to and as a result, a shorter lens just didn’t work for this shot. However, as I was using a zoom lens, I was able to reach right out over the water, and the extension tube allowed me to make sure that the lens didn’t reduce in focal length as it was focused. It has also resulted in the background softening out."

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

"The shot below is of a Banded Demoiselle and if you get the chance, watch one in-flight as it's quite beautiful." 

Photo by David Pritchard


 

"Another Banded Demoiselle, this time a female. The grace of these insects in leisurely flight belies the speed and agility that they are capable of; this lady disappeared from my viewfinder for only a couple of seconds. In that short time she shot out three feet, and returned to the same spot with this lacewing. The females generally seem more cautious than the males, and are certainly harder to spot."

Photo by David Pritchard

 

"The Banded Demoiselle is one of my favourite species of damselfly, due to their spectacular flight. The male’s wing markings appear electric blue under the right light, and they appear almost butterfly-like in the way that they move."

 

Photo by David Pritchard

  

"For this image, I used extension tubes to increase my working distance, and then chose a combination of aperture and focal length that allowed me to include some of the foreground grasses without them detracting from the main subject which added some layering to the photo."

Photo by David Pritchard

"This Damselfly was resting a few feet over the water and due to the bright sunshine,  I was able to use a couple of extension tubes (totalling 56mm) to bring the insect within range. This meant I was able to throw the background out of focus more than normal." 

Photo by David Pritchard
 

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What Is A 'Fast' Lens?

When you hear the term 'fast lens' it means that the lens in question has a large maximum aperture (the bigger the aperture, the faster the lens will be). The aperture is often displayed as an f followed by a number but do remember that a large maximum aperture will actually be a small number such as f/1.8. A fast prime lens would be considered fast when it has a maximum aperture under f/2.8. However, if the lens is 300mm or longer, an aperture of f/2.8 would be considered to be fast and the same goes for zoom lenses.

 

Let's Talk Apertures A bigger aperture (small f-number) will allow more light to reach the camera's sensor which means faster shutter speeds can be used even in low light situations. They're useful in various shooting situations including places where flash can't be used, at concerts where there's not much ambient light, indoors when you're trying to capture movement such as dancers on stage and for subjects such as sports photography where fast shutter speeds are essential.

 

Nikon 50mm f/1.4D lens, Different apertures: f/1.4, f/4, f/16. More on exposure and camera settings here.

 

You Can Work Hand-Held

Another advantage to fast lenses is that you won't always be forced to use a tripod as the faster shutter speeds allow for hand-held shooting in more situations. This is something that's particularly useful in places where tripods aren't allowed such as in cathedrals or in busy locations where light can be an issue such as in a museum.
 

The Negatives

A downside to fast lenses is that they can be expensive and they tend to be heavier and bigger than other lenses. Care needs to be paid to focus when using autofocus as you may find it tries to focus on the wrong part of the shot, leaving focus on an area of the image that wasn't your intended subject. It's also worth investing in a good quality lens so images don't appear soft when viewed on-screen.

 

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The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is a huge arts festival that runs in August and even though you need tickets for many of the shows at the Fringe, you can visit the Royal Mile for free where you'll find plenty of street entertainers you can capture images of.

Due to the event's popularity and the variety of things on offer to photograph, you will see all sorts of photographic approaches so there's not really hard-and-fast rules to follow more like guidelines that'll help you capture the best of what the Fringe has to offer. Also, although taking photos is fun do remember that you're actually there to enjoy yourself so do take your eye away from the viewfinder occasionally and just enjoy the atmosphere.

 

Photo by Cattyal

 

1. Lens Choices 

A standard zoom is perfect for the sort of distances you'll be taking photos from. If you own a telezoom do take it, however, someone will more than likely get in the way if you're using a longer lens so use it for tightly-cropped shots rather than trying to get a shot from a distance. Wides can work but make the point of getting in close to fill the frame and accept that you are going to get fussy backgrounds.

 

2. Know Where You Are Going

Pick up a guide as it lists times as well as locations of where things are happening, plus if it's your first time visiting, there's usually a handy map included to help you find your way. The best location is on the Royal Mile where you get street performers and artists promoting their shows with mini-performances.

 

3. Be Patient 

It does get bustling with visitors and performers coming and going all day but hang around for long enough and you will find something to aim your lens at.

 

4. Take Care 

Due to how busy the Royal Mile gets remember to take care of your possessions and don't leave anything unattended. It can also get hot at this time of year, so remember to keep hydrated and you'll probably encounter a sudden downpour, too so keep a brolly handy.

 

Photo by  Cattyal

 

5. Payment For Performance 

Some performers would like a payment for posing and it is up to you if you want to make a contribution. Some of the shows are excellent and you might feel that a sample of enjoyable street theatre is worth some small change.

 

6. Be Polite 

As they're performing in public, on the street they tend to not mind you photographing them. However, if the opportunity arrives, it is always polite to ask them if it's OK to take a few shots. 

 

7. Capture Close-Ups 

As they're passionate about their performance you'll have plenty of interesting expressions and movements to photograph so get in close if the opportunity unfolds.

 

8. Crowd Or No Crowd? 

If there's a big crowd or the street they're on is particularly cluttered hide it by cropping in close to the performer. However, if the crowd's having a particularly good time, having them in the shot can work well in an image with the performer. Alternatively, just capture an image of the spectators watching the show. 

 

Photo by David Pritchard

9. Speed & Position 

Shoot quickly, watch the background and move around to explore different camera angles.

 

10. Different Perspective 

Performance shots are great but don't overlook capturing shots of performers scooping up change from guitar cases or moving position to set-up for the next part of their act.

 

11. Continuous Shooting & Focus 

Switch to continuous shooting but don't be tempted to constantly machine-gun away. Instead, take the time to watch for the key moments that are worth capturing. Continuous focusing will help you maintain focus on the street performers.

 

12. Shutter Priority 

Consider using Shutter Priority so you can decide how much you freeze / add motion blur to action shots. To add crowd movement to your shot you'll need a slower shutter speed and a support. Tripods take up too much space so use a monopod or even your camera bag as a support. Use a small aperture and low ISO to get the slower speeds you need. You may need to experiment to find the exact shutter speed that works but the beauty of digital means you can check the screen, adjust and take another shot.

 

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The basic function of a tripod

First, let's quickly examine what a tripod will do for us. First and foremost, it supports our camera, attached lens, and some of the other gear, like a flash unit, etc. It helps us position our camera at an odd angle at times. It helps us get higher than our typical shooting stance, and get lower at times for macro work. The most appropriate tripod for you will depend on your shooting style and choice of subject matter. There is not one tripod out there that is better with every subject matter; on the contrary, many tripods are specialist.

 

 

So, what areas should your tripod excel to be useful for outdoors shooting?

If you are planning to shoot nature, there are certain aspects of the outdoors which your tripod will have to endure, which it would not, if it was used indoors.

1. Moisture is an enemy of photography gear. If you plan to shoot landscapes in the wilderness, wild animals, birds, etc., your camera and you will end up in some wet environments. As such, you have to make sure that your tripod choice reflects this fact. Many manufacturers build tripods specifically meant for the outdoors, and they are built to be moisture resistant if not proof.

2. The terrain is always a concern outdoors. A good tripod should have spiked feet, simply because you will often end up on loose soil, dirt, and other surfaces that will be uneven, and require sharp spikes to secure the tripod, and attached gear. You can buy spare spiked feet from manufacturers if you don't have any.

3. The load is a very important aspect to consider. How heavy is your camera and your heaviest lens? Are you planning on getting larger heavier lenses in the future? While it is tough to predict, always try to plan ahead. Your choice of a tripod will reflect your future purchases. Always, make sure your tripod has at least 30% of capacity for future upgrades to your equipment. If you plan to shoot wildlife, you will have some really heavy lenses, and a tripod will have to support them and allow you to pan smoothly when shooting animals in action.

4. Weight is probably the main determining factor in your purchase. Remember, when you travel and explore, you will have your tripod with you, and depending upon how much walking you do, the weight of your tripod will be more or less important to you. However, always aim for the highest ratio of weight to load. In other words, look for lightest tripod rated for highest weight. Outdoors are often rough environments and every pound counts. 

5. The flexibility of shooting positions is important when you change subject matter on the fly. If you are like me, you will shoot macro, landscapes, panoramas, and perhaps even some animals, depending on the time of day and weather. If so, a flexible centre column is a must feature. Look for a tripod which allows for multiple positions of the centre column. A tripod should allow you to get low, and have more than one-foot angle. The best tripods for this job will offer up to three different angles for the feet, which will allow you to get very low if need be, to shoot flowers, insects, etc. 

 

 

How much money?

Choosing a tripod is not easy. Some manufacturers do make things easier and group them into specialities, like outdoors, studio use, etc. Do as much research as you can, because there is no one ideal model that suits everyone. Remember the old saying: "You get what you pay for". This is very important when deciding how much you are willing to pay. Keep in mind, a huge budget will not always mean you get the best tripod, but it will mean that you do have more choices.

Do not look for a cheap tripod, which you think may suffice. Your shooting requirements will change, and within a year or two, you will be shopping for another one. Strongly consider carbon fibre as they are lighter than any alloy, more durable, will not bend, and flex under the weight of your gear, and do not rust, corrode, or are adversely affected by moisture. They are more expensive, but without a doubt worth the extra money. Look at this purchase as a long-term investment in photography. After all, your images will only be as good as your shooting ability and your gear

 

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- Guest Post -

 

 

Getting a photograph to fit a specific format is rarely as simple as it might seem. A portrait shot may need to become a landscape, or a tightly framed image might leave no room for text overlay. These are common problems for photographers and designers working across different platforms and print sizes.

Cropping has long been the default fix, but it often removes exactly what made the image work in the first place. The alternative, extending the canvas outward, used to require painstaking manual work in editing software, with results that rarely looked convincing.

That has changed considerably with the rise of the AI image extender. These tools use generative models to examine the existing content of a photograph and fill in surrounding areas with realistic detail, matching light, colour, and texture. The results are not always perfect, but the best tools have reached a point where extended areas can be difficult to distinguish from the original. For photographers who regularly need to adapt images for different formats, knowing which tools are worth using can help save time.

 

1. Adobe Firefly Generative Expand

 

Adobe Firefly uses context-aware fill to extend any image beyond its original borders. It reads the existing lighting, perspective, and colour before generating new content around the edges. The extended area tends to sit naturally alongside the original.

 A text prompt can guide what appears in the new canvas area. If expanding a landscape photograph, typing "open sky with light cloud" gives the model a clear direction. This produces more consistent results than leaving the prompt blank. This level of control is one of the reasons Firefly stands out among the available options.

 This feature is available within the free monthly credit allowance. Photographers can try it without paying anything upfront. Adobe Firefly offers detailed control through prompts and seamless integration with Creative Cloud. For anyone already working within Adobe's creative tools, the integration with the broader editing workflow is a practical advantage.

 

2. Canva AI Image Expander

 

Canva lets users drag the canvas edge outward and fills the gap with AI-generated content. It sits inside the same editor many photographers already use for social graphics. This removes the need to switch between applications.

This works particularly well for social media crops where the subject needs more breathing room. If a portrait feels too tight for a Facebook cover, Canva can extend the background without leaving the platform. The results are generally clean on images with moderate background detail. Very busy edges can produce inconsistencies.

 

3. Fotor AI Image Extender

 

Fotor is a browser-based tool with a straightforward upload-and-extend workflow. Users upload an image, choose the direction to extend, and the AI fills the new area. No software installation is required.

It performs best on images with consistent or simple backgrounds, such as plain skies or studio shots. Busy scenes with lots of detail at the edges can produce less convincing results. It is a good idea to test on a sample image before committing to a full batch.

 

4. PicsArt AI Expander

 

PicsArt is built with mobile users in mind. Images can be extended directly from a phone without needing a desktop editor. This suits photographers who work primarily from a mobile device.

It is a practical choice for those who edit on the go before posting to Instagram or TikTok. The app handles the extension quickly. The output is ready to share without further adjustment in most cases. A free tier is available, making it accessible without a paid account.

 

5. PixelCut Uncrop

 

PixelCut is designed specifically for portraits and product shots. It focuses on the kind of tight crops that come from shooting for one format and needing to repurpose the image for another.

In regular use, aspect ratio presets within PixelCut give e-commerce photographers a way to batch-prepare photos for different storefront requirements. Amazon and eBay product listings each prefer specific canvas shapes. Selecting a preset tailored for those formats means a user can upload a batch of tightly cropped images, apply the e-commerce preset, and have every output already sized for upload. This method can help save time and may prevent repeated errors that sometimes occur when resizing many product photos to meet different marketplace standards.

 

6. Airbrush Image Extender

 

Airbrush offers one-click extension with export options sized for multiple platforms. Users upload an image and choose the output format before downloading. This keeps the process short.

The platform presets generate correctly sized outputs for Pinterest, LinkedIn, and print in a single session. Airbrush does offer a free tier, though some export options and higher-resolution downloads require a paid plan. For occasional use, the free allowance covers most standard jobs.

 

7. FlexClip AI Image Extender

 

FlexClip is a browser tool that handles both photographs and video thumbnails. It is helpful when consistent image dimensions are needed across a series of videos or posts. It works without requiring a desktop application.

Content creators who produce regular video content will find it useful for keeping thumbnail sizes uniform. The extension quality is solid for images with moderate background detail. Very complex scenes may show some inconsistency at the edges.

 

8. Aragon AI Photo Editor

 

Aragon is built for portrait and headshot use cases. It extends images with an awareness of how faces and shoulders sit within a frame. This makes it more reliable than general-purpose tools for this specific type of photograph.

This makes it a good option when reframing a headshot for a wider banner or a profile header. The results tend to hold up well when the background is relatively neutral. The tool is straightforward to use without prior editing experience.

 

9. PxBee AI Image Extender

 

PxBee is a lightweight online tool that requires no account for basic use. Users upload an image, extend it, and download the result without signing up for anything.

It is a practical solution for a quick one-off extension without committing to a new platform. The output quality is suitable for simple jobs. It is not the best option for scenes with lots of fine detail near the edges.

 

10. Using Your Phone's Built-In AI Expand Feature

 

Recent Android and iOS updates have added native generative expand tools to the default gallery app on many devices. Samsung, Google Pixel, and Apple have all introduced versions of this feature. The quality on newer handsets is often similar to what is available from standalone browser tools.

Before downloading a third-party app, it is practical to check the phone's photo editor to see whether the feature is already present. On supported devices, the built-in option is free to use. It requires no additional account or credit allowance.

 

 

Conclusion

 

AI image expanders now give photographers a range of options for addressing tightly cropped images or adjusting aspect ratios for various platforms. Each featured tool has specific strengths. Adobe Firefly provides detailed control and seamless integration with Creative Cloud for those working extensively on desktop. Browser-based options and mobile apps support quick tasks or editing on the move.

Trying multiple solutions with free credit allowances lets photographers compare results first-hand. The best approach is to match the solution to the level of output quality, ease of use, and platform compatibility needed. For some, a built-in phone editor handles occasional social posts. Others may rely on Firefly's prompt-driven expansion for commercial projects.

Testing tools using personal images can show both the strengths and the limits of current AI models. Regular review helps ensure that the chosen solution continues to meet quality standards for both creative and client work. This can lead to more flexibility and efficiency whenever an image needs extra breathing room.

© Canon

 

Canon has released a free firmware update for the EOS C80 and EOS C400, enhancing image quality and workflow for professional filmmakers. The headline feature, Cinema Exposure Mode, improves highlight performance above base ISO and streamlines the log shooting menu. The EOS C400 adds Auto Exposure Ramping Compensation, while both cameras now support Canon's new CN30x40 Cine Servo lens. The update is available now for download.

 

From Canon UK:

Canon announces a new free firmware update for the EOS C80 and EOS C400, delivering image quality, workflow and compatibility enhancements for professional filmmakers. Headlined by the introduction of Cinema Exposure Mode, the update reflects Canon's ongoing commitment to evolving Cinema EOS products based on professional user feedback, helping customers get even more from their existing equipment.

Improved image performance and enhanced workflows

The latest firmware update introduces Cinema Exposure Mode, designed to improve highlight performance when shooting above base ISO levels (up to 2-stops), as well as providing a more streamlined camera menu specifically for log shooting. This gives filmmakers greater flexibility in challenging shooting conditions while helping maximise image quality throughout post-production workflows.

The EOS C400 also benefits from a range of workflow and usability enhancements, including Auto Exposure Ramping Compensation for smoother operation in broadcast and live production environments with supported Cine Servo lenses, alongside additional refinements that streamline day-to-day camera operation.

Further expanding the Cinema EOS ecosystem, the update adds enhanced compatibility with the all-new and optically groundbreaking CN30x40 Cine Servo lens, strengthening integration across Canon's professional imaging portfolio and providing greater flexibility for production teams.

By adding meaningful new capabilities at no additional cost, Canon continues to demonstrate its commitment to supporting professional creators long after purchase, ensuring the Cinema EOS platform continues to evolve in line with the needs of filmmakers.

 

Availability

The EOS C80 and EOS C400 firmware update will be available to download free of charge from 19 August via canon-europe.com/support.

- Partner Content -

 

 

An SD card that has become corrupted can ruin an otherwise ordinary photography session. Everything seems fine one minute, and suddenly you start seeing error messages like “SD card must be formatted,” “Card cannot be read,” “Drive is inaccessible,” or “The file or directory is corrupted and unreadable.”

In case your SD card has valuable photos, video footage, and other documents on it, it is understandable that the first thought that comes to mind is to format the card. But you definitely shouldn’t do that yet.

The good news is that, in many cases, you can fix corrupted SD card without formatting and recover your files first. The safest approach is to stop using the card, attempt non-destructive troubleshooting, and recover important data before making major changes to its file system.

This guide explains why SD cards become corrupted, what you should do first, and several practical ways to fix a corrupted SD card without formatting.

 

Why Does an SD Card Become Corrupted

 

SD card corruption can happen for several reasons. Common causes include:

• Removing the SD card while files are being transferred
• Turning off a camera while it is still writing photos or videos
• Sudden battery loss during a recording
• Interrupting a file transfer
• Malware or file-system errors
• Bad sectors or aging flash memory

Corruption will always be particularly irritating for those working as photographers as an SD card can hold many photos or videos in RAW format.

Even if your card is corrupt, it does not mean that the files are lost. There might be cases when the data is still there physically but the system cannot read it anymore.

 

What to Do Before You Try to Fix the Corrupted SD Card

 

Before attempting any repair, protect the existing data.

 

1. Stop Using the SD Card

If the card contains important files, do not take additional photos or videos and do not copy new files to it.

New data can overwrite storage space that previously contained deleted or inaccessible files. Once overwritten, recovery can become much more difficult.

 

2. Don't Format the Card Yet

If Windows, macOS, or your camera displays a message asking you to format the SD card, choose Cancel or No for now.

Formatting may make the card usable again, but it can also make file recovery more complicated. Recovering important files should come before formatting whenever possible.

 

3. Check the Card Reader and Connection

Sometimes the SD card itself is not the problem. Try:

• A different USB card reader
• Another USB port
• Another computer
• A different SD adapter if you are using a microSD card

If the card works normally on another reader or computer, you may be dealing with a connection problem rather than serious SD card corruption.

 

How to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

 

Once you have protected the card and checked the hardware, you can try the following methods.

 

Method 1. Fix Corrupted SD Card With Professional Software

When the SD card contains irreplaceable photos or videos, data recovery should come before repair.

It is especially important if the SD card appears as RAW, is inaccessible, or keeps asking you to format it. A corrupted file system might not allow you to access the files, although there could be some information that can be recovered.

With its all-inclusive features, EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard helps to repair and recover data from SD cards. The software provides solutions to fix damaged SD cards having problems like displaying raw file system, being inaccessible, asking for continuous formatting or unable to be detected by devices through its SDR technology.

In cases where the SD card is seriously damaged, not able to be repaired using SDR technology, the SSR and DVR technologies come into play to recover more data. These technologies will help you to retrieve fragmented, partially damaged, and unplayable photos and videos.

If there are any important photos or videos saved on the faulty SD card, then data recovery is what you should focus on. The file system of corrupted SD card does not allow access to the files while the files are actually there to be recovered. If you want to repair the corrupted SD card without formatting and save the files, EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard is what you need.

 

 

Method 2. Try CHKDSK to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

If you have already recovered your important files, or the SD card does not contain anything you need to recover, you can try Windows' built-in CHKDSK utility. CHKDSK checks the file system and can attempt to repair certain logical errors and here is how you can run the CHKDSK command:

Step 1. Connect the SD card to your Windows computer.

Step 2. Find the drive letter assigned to the SD card in File Explorer.

Step 3. Open Command Prompt as Administrator.

Step 4. Enter the following command, replacing E: with your SD card's actual drive letter:

chkdsk E: /f

Step 5. Press Enter and wait for the process to finish.

The utility CHKDSK could be helpful for some problems related to the logical structure of the file system, although it is not a remedy for all cases. When there are valuable files on the card which have not been restored yet, it is better to restore the files before any change to the file system.

 

Method 3. Change the Drive Letter to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

If Windows detects the SD card but does not allow you to access it normally, changing its drive letter may resolve a drive-letter conflict. Here is how you can do this:

Step 1. Hold Win+R and choose Disk Management from the menu.

Step 2. Locate your SD card and right-click on it.

Step 3. Choose “Change Drive Letter and Paths” and click “Change”.

Step 4. Select a different available drive letter and click OK.

Then open File Explorer and check whether the card is accessible. This method does not repair physical damage, but it can help when Windows has assigned the card a problematic or conflicting drive letter.

 

Method 4. Reinstall the SD Card Driver to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

A driver problem can sometimes make a healthy SD card appear inaccessible. You can troubleshoot the driver by reinstalling it with the following steps:

Step 1. Connect the SD card to your computer.

Step 2. Open Device Manager and expand Disk drives.

Step 3. Locate the SD card or card-reader device.

Step 4. Right-click it, select “Uninstall device”, and restart the computer.

Windows may automatically reinstall the necessary driver after restarting. If the card is still inaccessible afterward, the problem may be related to the file system, the storage media, or the card reader rather than the driver.

 

How to Prevent SD Card Corruption in the Future

 

With your data recovered and the SD card back in working order, you can adopt a few practices to minimize the chance of future corruption.

• Always Eject the Card Safely: Wait until your photos have been fully transferred to your computer before ejecting the card or reader.
• Never Shoot on a Near-Full Card: Have enough space left on the card rather than shooting to the maximum of the available capacity.
• Format Your Cards in the Camera if Recommended by the Manufacturer: If your camera manufacturer advises formatting in the camera, do that instead of continually formatting the card on several devices.
• Have a Backup for Important Photos: SD cards are not the only place from which you should access your photos. For special events, always back up important pictures in another place, such as a computer, an external hard drive, or cloud storage.
• Discard Recurrently Corrupted Cards: Do not reuse an SD card that keeps getting corrupted despite formatting.

 

Final Thoughts

 

How to fix corrupted SD card without formatting? If you have a problem with a corrupted SD card, formatting might not be the solution. First and foremost, it is necessary to save the files that are on it.

If you are trying to find a solution for how to fix a corrupted SD card without formatting, there are several actions you need to take in order to solve your problem. You will need to stop writing operations, check your card reader, and recover your files before anything else. Windows built-in applications such as CHKDSK might come in handy in case of logical damage. Changing drive letters or reinstalling your drivers is also helpful in cases where you cannot access the SD card.

EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard is an easy way to scan and fix your SD card and recover your files if your SD card is not accessible and/or the file system is badly damaged. Its features related to SD card recovery are compatible with many situations such as corruption, raw cards, accidental deletion, and formatting.

 

Zoos and wildlife parks are great places to get up close with wildlife, but the fences and glass keeping us and the animals safe can cause a few problems for photographers.

 

Height Is An Issue

Fences often rise above eye level and the tops aren't in easy reach (for good reason) so you can't hold your camera up above it to take your shots. As a result, we often have to take photos with the cage in front of us but this doesn't mean the fence has to appear and as a result spoiling the shot.

Sometimes it's easy to capture fence-free shots as the gaps in the mesh are just big enough for a lens to be poked through, however, when it's not, you'll have to use a few other tricks to capture your wildlife shot. 

 

Close With Wide Apertures

One way is to get as close to the fence as possible and select a wider aperture. Then, line up your lens so it's over a gap or if they're too small, try and wait so the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap. Once the animal has put some distance between them and the fence, take your shot. The fence will, hopefully, be thrown our of focus, thanks to the reduced depth-of-field, so you won't even notice it while your subject will be sharp. 

You may find that Auto Focus tries to focus on the fence rather than your subject so switch to manual focus to ensure your subject is sharp. 

 

Longer Lenses

If you are using a lens that doesn't have a particularly wide aperture then don't worry; you'll still be able to capture a mesh-free shot with a longer focal range. If you can't shoot through or throw the fence out of focus you can often clone it out later using an image editing program. 

 

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Beach huts are wonderfully photogenic and you can get great pictures of them almost regardless of the lighting conditions. However, beach huts get elevated to iconic status when the scene is complemented by a photogenic sky.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

A wide-angle will help you make the most of big skies, but even the short end of your standard zoom should be fine. Obviously the wider your lens the more sky that you can include. However, there is the danger of going too wide and including fantastic sky detail as well as more mundane bits, so do frame carefully. A selection of filters can come in very handy so do pack some graduates as well as the polariser.
 

2. When?

Lovely skies can occur at any time of year and at any time of day so you just have to be aware of the conditions and keep an eye on what’s happening. With heavy showers followed by brief spells of intense sunlight, there is every chance of dramatic skies, not to mention things like rainbows.

Periodically check what’s happening in the heavens as the day progresses and in the end, you might end up with a good set of images, all taken from the same spot but looking very different as the sky is constantly changing.

 

3. Metering

Exposure can be tricky because of the wide contrast range between the sky and the beach huts, so you need to think about metering to ensure the optimum result. In some cases, you might even find the foreground to be brighter than the sky, say when there is a doom-laden dark sky behind the sunlit huts.

With this sort of shot, the most important of the scene is the highlight detail (usually the sky) so meter off that and let the shadows worry about themselves. If the foreground then looks too gloomy use exposure compensation to help and reshoot.

If the light is changing quickly, and this can happen in stormy conditions, bracket exposures to make sure you get a result you are happy with. If you find the sky is still coming out too light, fit a graduate filter.

 

 

4. Enhance

A polariser can intensity a colourful or a stormy sky depending on the direction of the light so that too can work. A polariser can enhance a sky to make it work even better for a black & white conversion. However, you might prefer the natural approach and that is perfectly fine.

 

5. Composition

In terms of composition, being bold can help. Some people might want to compose using the rule-of-thirds, but this can actually look rather static. Lining up the huts along the very bottom of the frame can work better and give even more prominence to the sky. Just explore the options when you are framing up the shot.

 

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‘Icon’ messenger bag in four colour combinations

 

Billingham has unveiled the Icon, a new messenger bag joining its leisure range for the demands of modern everyday carry. Inspired by the brand's iconic Hadley Original, it's been redesigned with today's user in mind, offering smart organisation and versatility for work, travel and daily life, without losing the craftsmanship Billingham is known for. Made from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte with full-grain leather and solid brass fittings, and still made at the company's own factory in England, the Icon gives existing fans a well organised lifestyle alternative to their photographic bags, while opening the door to professionals, commuters and travellers.

 

From Billingham:

Billingham is proud to introduce the latest addition to its leisure range – the ‘Icon’. A highly requested messenger bag inspired by our iconic Hadley Original, thoughtfully redesigned for everyday use to meet the evolving needs of today’s customer while staying true to the brand’s heritage of craftsmanship and durability.

Built in Billingham’s best-selling format, the Icon seamlessly blends timeless design with a highly functional everyday carry (EDC) and lifestyle layout. It has been carefully developed to support modern routines, offering enhanced organisation and versatility for work, travel, and daily use.

At the heart of the Icon is its commitment to premium materials. Each bag is constructed from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte, complemented by full-grain leather and solid brass fittings. This combination ensures long-lasting performance while maintaining the distinctive aesthetic that defines the brand.

Functionality is central to the design. The Icon features a full-width internal pocket capable of holding up to a 14” laptop with a case, along with a wide zippered pocket for secure storage—now housing a discreet compartment designed to hold an AirTag for
added peace of mind.

Inside, users benefit from a bottle holder, front slip pockets, and medium-height net hammock pockets for organising smaller essentials. A solid brass key loop is also located inside the bag for easy access and everyday convenience. Externally, expanding front dump pockets provide additional quick-access storage.

Designed with comfort and travel in mind, the Icon features a sewn in, 50mm adjustable shoulder sling and includes the SP50 Shoulder Pad. A luggage retainer strap allows the bag to be securely attached to rolling luggage, making it an ideal companion for frequent travellers. The inclusion of Hadley Pro Front Straps with the quick release system, reinforces both the bag’s reliability and its unmistakable Billingham identity.

Finished with a refined UI label and carefully matched components throughout, the Icon represents a balance of heritage styling and contemporary functionality.

“The Icon reflects what our customers value most—durability, organisation, and timeless design,” said Harry Billingham. “It’s a natural evolution of our range, created for modern lifestyles without compromising the craftsmanship we’re known for.”

The Billingham Icon is designed for professionals, commuters, and travellers seeking a premium everyday bag that delivers both style and substance. For customers that already know and love our brand and photographic bags, this bag provides a wellorganised everyday lifestyle alternative.

 

Inside the ‘Icon’ messenger bag

 

Crafted in England

All bags are cut, stitched, and finished at the company’s factory in the West Midlands, where skilled craftspeople combine traditional techniques with modern materials. The launch reinforces the company’s long-standing commitment to British manufacturing and meticulous quality control.

 

Availability

The ‘Icon’ is available to purchase now, directly from our website and from authorised retailers.

 

UK SRP (INC VAT)  UK SRP (EX VAT) EUR US SRP £330.00 £275.00 €325.00 $377.00

 

For more information, please visit the Billingham's website.

© DJI

 

If you've ever tried filming with a smartphone for more than a few minutes, you'll probably know where the compromises start to show. While today's flagship phones capture impressive footage, they still can't quite match the combination of dedicated image quality, reliable stabilization, and creator-focused features that purpose-built cameras deliver.

That's exactly where the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 continues to shine.

Designed for vloggers, travellers, and anyone creating video content on a regular basis, the Pocket 3 packs premium camera hardware into a body that's small enough to fit in your pocket. Better still, DJI is currently offering a limited-time discount on the Creator Combo, making now an excellent opportunity to upgrade your filming setup.

Between July 22 and August 9, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is available for $549, reduced from its regular $629 price, saving buyers $80.

 

A compact camera that doesn't feel compromised

One of the biggest reasons the Osmo Pocket 3 has remained popular is that it removes much of the complexity that comes with traditional cameras.

Instead of carrying interchangeable lenses, an external gimbal, microphones, and additional accessories, creators get an all-in-one device that's ready to shoot in seconds. Whether you're documenting a holiday, filming a YouTube video, recording B-roll for client work, or simply capturing family moments, the Pocket 3 is designed to make the process as effortless as possible.

Its compact size also means you're far more likely to bring it with you than a larger mirrorless camera, making it an ideal everyday companion for spontaneous filming. 

 

Bigger sensor, better-looking footage

At the heart of the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 sits a 1-inch CMOS sensor, which is one of its biggest advantages over a smartphone.

The larger sensor gathers significantly more light, allowing it to produce cleaner footage with improved detail, stronger dynamic range, and noticeably better low-light performance. Whether you're shooting indoors, during sunrise or sunset, or in challenging lighting conditions, the Pocket 3 consistently delivers a more polished, cinematic result than you'd expect from such a compact device.

For creators looking to elevate the overall quality of their content without stepping into the world of larger interchangeable-lens cameras, it's a compelling middle ground.

 

Smooth video without carrying a separate gimbal

Anyone who's looked back at shaky handheld footage knows just how important stabilization can be.

Rather than relying entirely on digital stabilization, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 features a built-in 3-axis mechanical gimbal that actively smooths movement while you record. The result is fluid-looking footage while walking, travelling, or filming on the move, without needing to mount your camera onto a separate stabilizer.

It's particularly useful for travel creators, event coverage, behind-the-scenes filming, and everyday vlogging where speed and simplicity matter. 

 

 

Built for modern content creation

Content today rarely stays on one platform, and DJI has clearly designed the Pocket 3 with that in mind.

Its 2-inch rotating touchscreen makes switching between landscape and portrait recording almost instantaneous, making it equally comfortable creating long-form YouTube videos or vertical clips for TikTok, Instagram Reels, and Shorts.

The display also makes self-recording much easier, helping solo creators frame themselves accurately without needing an external monitor.

 

A camera that suits almost any creator

The DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is well suited to a huge variety of filming scenarios, including:

• Travel videos
• YouTube content
• Daily vlogs
• Social media clips
• Lifestyle content
• Behind-the-scenes footage
• Everyday memories and family events

Because the Creator Combo bundles together additional accessories, it offers a more complete package for anyone wanting to start creating content straight away.

 

An excellent time to pick one up

Even several years after launch, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 remains one of the strongest compact creator cameras available. It strikes an impressive balance between portability, image quality, ease of use, and professional-looking results without requiring the investment or learning curve of a larger camera system.

With DJI's current promotion running from July 22 through August 9, the Creator Combo becomes an even more attractive option. At $549, down from $629, it's an excellent opportunity to save $80 on a camera that continues to be one of the easiest ways to produce high-quality video wherever you go.

View This Deal

 

  Every year for one weekend in August Ramsey and the people who visit take a step back in time and celebrate the 1940s. The event, which you can find more information about on the Ramsey 1940's weekend website, is a great place to take your camera to and you're also guaranteed to have some fun while you are there. If you can't get to Ramsey there are plenty of other events that take place right across the country.     1. Gear Suggestions

If you arrive before the crowds then a 50mm lens is perfect for capturing people in costume but when the masses arrive or if you like to have a little more versatility, pack a zoom lens that gives you wide to mid-range focal lengths. A tripod's always helpful, particularly if you're heading to the dance in the evening when the light will be lower. They can be a little clunky and can get in the way though so you may like the flexibility a monopod gives you instead. Flash may be handy in the evening, but you could just turn up your ISO slightly or pop your camera on a tripod and use slightly longer shutter speeds.
 

2. Picking A Subject

When you arrive you'll find plenty of people dressed in 1940s clobber and RAF uniforms who are perfect for a nostalgic portrait shot or two. Some people will be so fabulously dressed they'll just shout: 'photograph me' at you but make sure you take a good walk around to see who else is hiding among the vehicles and stalls. You could get a few candid snaps of the crowds as you do so too.

 

 

3. Ask If It's OK

When you do find your subject make sure you ask their permission and don't be in a hurry to photograph them where they stand as you could look back and realise you have a modern car or burger van ruining your shot. You can try and throw the ugly background out of focus but if you have the time, make the effort to chat to your subject and ask them to move somewhere that's more appropriate. You still may want to throw the background out of focus and leave all the attention on your subject, but at least the blurred objects and shapes will be more fitting to the era you're trying to capture. If you can, do take your time when you're looking through the viewfinder and pay particular attention to their costume. It's amazing how straightening a skirt or fastening up a button can make a big difference to the overall shot.

 

4. Capture Movement

If you hang around for the dance you'll need fast shutter speeds to freeze the action on the dance floor or put your camera on a tripod and slow your shutter speeds to blur the movement of the skirts/dresses as they spin around. There will also be plenty of candids off the dance floor such as to capture too. 
 

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