DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

 

Summer has finally landed here in the UK (we hope we've not spoken too soon) and that means many will be heading for the beach. If your camera will be packed along with the buckets, spades and sunblock, take a look at these 5 tips so your shots of the beach look as good as the real thing.

 

1. Switch From Auto Mode

When shooting with Auto you may find your beach scenes look a little darker than you expected and that's because your camera is seeing the light coloured sand and is confusing it for a scene that's bright. As a result, it's adjusting the exposure accordingly and the sand appears dark when you preview the image.

Do make sure other areas of the shot aren't overexposed when you make your adjustment. Some camera models allow you to check for under- / over-exposed parts of the image on the display (these generally appear as coloured blinking areas). You can also use the built-in histogram to see if any peaks are to the far ends of the graph.

If you can manually control the exposure use exposure compensation and set a + figure as this should give you an image that's more true to life. You can also use the Beach and Snow setting and the camera will automatically make adjustments.

  2. Send A Digital 'Postcards'

Postcards are great but they can take forever to reach their recipient, plus they're not all that personal. Instead, why not make use of technology and send snaps of your trip straight to friends and family instead? Many compacts now have built-in WI-FI capabilities so users can either send photos straight to their smartphones which can then be shared with family and friends or some brands allow you to download apps to your camera so you can link directly to Facebook etc. to share your images with the world at the touch of a button. For those with compacts that don't have WI-FI built-in, you can purchase an EyeFi card which will quickly and reliably transfer your pro images to your computer, smartphone or tablet devices.

 

 

3. Use Beach & Sea Ready Cameras

Many cameras are now designed with coastal locations in mind. Some compacts are water-, shock-, crush- and cold-proof. Having said that, it's still worth giving your equipment a wipe down after a day of photography on the beach to remove any salt residue present. By using a 'tough' camera you'll be able to capture a few holiday/beach shots for the album that have a slightly different angle. Try capturing underwater shots or how about a half-and-half image that shows what's both under and above the waves? 

 

4. Boost Colours Of Sunsets & Sunrises

Depending on your location you may have the chance to capture a sunrise or sunset. These subjects are techniques all of their own but we will say that a quick way to give your shots more impact is by adjusting the white balance setting on your camera. Try the cloudy setting if you want colours to be more vibrant while compact users can put the sunset mode to the test.

 

5. Go For A Different Angle

Busy shots of sand-castle building action and donkey rides are great for the family album but for something a little different, why not have a go at macro photography or shoot some abstracts? If you don't have a small tripod or bean bag, use your camera bag or even a rolled-up towel for support and get down in the sand to capture the best angles. Zoom in close and use the built-in macro mode (usually a flower symbol) so the camera knows you want to use a wide aperture to throw backgrounds out of focus. Back on your feet, walk to the water's edge and instead of shooting out to sea, turn around and shoot what's behind you. People can often forget to do this when they get sucked in by the view that's out to sea and in front of them.

 

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Zoos and wildlife parks are great places to get up close with wildlife, but the fences and glass keeping us and the animals safe can cause a few problems for photographers.

 

Height Is An Issue

Fences often rise above eye level and the tops aren't in easy reach (for good reason) so you can't hold your camera up above it to take your shots. As a result, we often have to take photos with the cage in front of us but this doesn't mean the fence has to appear and as a result spoiling the shot.

Sometimes it's easy to capture fence-free shots as the gaps in the mesh are just big enough for a lens to be poked through, however, when it's not, you'll have to use a few other tricks to capture your wildlife shot. 

 

Close With Wide Apertures

One way is to get as close to the fence as possible and select a wider aperture. Then, line up your lens so it's over a gap or if they're too small, try and wait so the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap. Once the animal has put some distance between them and the fence, take your shot. The fence will, hopefully, be thrown our of focus, thanks to the reduced depth-of-field, so you won't even notice it while your subject will be sharp. 

You may find that Auto Focus tries to focus on the fence rather than your subject so switch to manual focus to ensure your subject is sharp. 

 

Longer Lenses

If you are using a lens that doesn't have a particularly wide aperture then don't worry; you'll still be able to capture a mesh-free shot with a longer focal range. If you can't shoot through or throw the fence out of focus you can often clone it out later using an image editing program. 

 

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‘Icon’ messenger bag in four colour combinations

 

Billingham has unveiled the Icon, a new messenger bag joining its leisure range for the demands of modern everyday carry. Inspired by the brand's iconic Hadley Original, it's been redesigned with today's user in mind, offering smart organisation and versatility for work, travel and daily life, without losing the craftsmanship Billingham is known for. Made from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte with full-grain leather and solid brass fittings, and still made at the company's own factory in England, the Icon gives existing fans a well organised lifestyle alternative to their photographic bags, while opening the door to professionals, commuters and travellers.

 

From Billingham:

Billingham is proud to introduce the latest addition to its leisure range – the ‘Icon’. A highly requested messenger bag inspired by our iconic Hadley Original, thoughtfully redesigned for everyday use to meet the evolving needs of today’s customer while staying true to the brand’s heritage of craftsmanship and durability.

Built in Billingham’s best-selling format, the Icon seamlessly blends timeless design with a highly functional everyday carry (EDC) and lifestyle layout. It has been carefully developed to support modern routines, offering enhanced organisation and versatility for work, travel, and daily use.

At the heart of the Icon is its commitment to premium materials. Each bag is constructed from Billingham Canvas or FibreNyte, complemented by full-grain leather and solid brass fittings. This combination ensures long-lasting performance while maintaining the distinctive aesthetic that defines the brand.

Functionality is central to the design. The Icon features a full-width internal pocket capable of holding up to a 14” laptop with a case, along with a wide zippered pocket for secure storage—now housing a discreet compartment designed to hold an AirTag for
added peace of mind.

Inside, users benefit from a bottle holder, front slip pockets, and medium-height net hammock pockets for organising smaller essentials. A solid brass key loop is also located inside the bag for easy access and everyday convenience. Externally, expanding front dump pockets provide additional quick-access storage.

Designed with comfort and travel in mind, the Icon features a sewn in, 50mm adjustable shoulder sling and includes the SP50 Shoulder Pad. A luggage retainer strap allows the bag to be securely attached to rolling luggage, making it an ideal companion for frequent travellers. The inclusion of Hadley Pro Front Straps with the quick release system, reinforces both the bag’s reliability and its unmistakable Billingham identity.

Finished with a refined UI label and carefully matched components throughout, the Icon represents a balance of heritage styling and contemporary functionality.

“The Icon reflects what our customers value most—durability, organisation, and timeless design,” said Harry Billingham. “It’s a natural evolution of our range, created for modern lifestyles without compromising the craftsmanship we’re known for.”

The Billingham Icon is designed for professionals, commuters, and travellers seeking a premium everyday bag that delivers both style and substance. For customers that already know and love our brand and photographic bags, this bag provides a wellorganised everyday lifestyle alternative.

 

Inside the ‘Icon’ messenger bag

 

Crafted in England

All bags are cut, stitched, and finished at the company’s factory in the West Midlands, where skilled craftspeople combine traditional techniques with modern materials. The launch reinforces the company’s long-standing commitment to British manufacturing and meticulous quality control.

 

Availability

The ‘Icon’ is available to purchase now, directly from our website and from authorised retailers.

 

UK SRP (INC VAT)  UK SRP (EX VAT) EUR US SRP £330.00 £275.00 €325.00 $377.00

 

For more information, please visit the Billingham's website.

© DJI

 

If you've ever tried filming with a smartphone for more than a few minutes, you'll probably know where the compromises start to show. While today's flagship phones capture impressive footage, they still can't quite match the combination of dedicated image quality, reliable stabilization, and creator-focused features that purpose-built cameras deliver.

That's exactly where the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 continues to shine.

Designed for vloggers, travellers, and anyone creating video content on a regular basis, the Pocket 3 packs premium camera hardware into a body that's small enough to fit in your pocket. Better still, DJI is currently offering a limited-time discount on the Creator Combo, making now an excellent opportunity to upgrade your filming setup.

Between July 22 and July 31, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is available for $549, reduced from its regular $629 price, saving buyers $80.

 

A compact camera that doesn't feel compromised

One of the biggest reasons the Osmo Pocket 3 has remained popular is that it removes much of the complexity that comes with traditional cameras.

Instead of carrying interchangeable lenses, an external gimbal, microphones, and additional accessories, creators get an all-in-one device that's ready to shoot in seconds. Whether you're documenting a holiday, filming a YouTube video, recording B-roll for client work, or simply capturing family moments, the Pocket 3 is designed to make the process as effortless as possible.

Its compact size also means you're far more likely to bring it with you than a larger mirrorless camera, making it an ideal everyday companion for spontaneous filming. 

 

Bigger sensor, better-looking footage

At the heart of the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 sits a 1-inch CMOS sensor, which is one of its biggest advantages over a smartphone.

The larger sensor gathers significantly more light, allowing it to produce cleaner footage with improved detail, stronger dynamic range, and noticeably better low-light performance. Whether you're shooting indoors, during sunrise or sunset, or in challenging lighting conditions, the Pocket 3 consistently delivers a more polished, cinematic result than you'd expect from such a compact device.

For creators looking to elevate the overall quality of their content without stepping into the world of larger interchangeable-lens cameras, it's a compelling middle ground.

 

Smooth video without carrying a separate gimbal

Anyone who's looked back at shaky handheld footage knows just how important stabilization can be.

Rather than relying entirely on digital stabilization, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 features a built-in 3-axis mechanical gimbal that actively smooths movement while you record. The result is fluid-looking footage while walking, travelling, or filming on the move, without needing to mount your camera onto a separate stabilizer.

It's particularly useful for travel creators, event coverage, behind-the-scenes filming, and everyday vlogging where speed and simplicity matter. 

 

 

Built for modern content creation

Content today rarely stays on one platform, and DJI has clearly designed the Pocket 3 with that in mind.

Its 2-inch rotating touchscreen makes switching between landscape and portrait recording almost instantaneous, making it equally comfortable creating long-form YouTube videos or vertical clips for TikTok, Instagram Reels, and Shorts.

The display also makes self-recording much easier, helping solo creators frame themselves accurately without needing an external monitor.

 

A camera that suits almost any creator

The DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo is well suited to a huge variety of filming scenarios, including:

• Travel videos
• YouTube content
• Daily vlogs
• Social media clips
• Lifestyle content
• Behind-the-scenes footage
• Everyday memories and family events

Because the Creator Combo bundles together additional accessories, it offers a more complete package for anyone wanting to start creating content straight away.

 

An excellent time to pick one up

Even several years after launch, the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 remains one of the strongest compact creator cameras available. It strikes an impressive balance between portability, image quality, ease of use, and professional-looking results without requiring the investment or learning curve of a larger camera system.

With DJI's current promotion running from July 22 through July 31, the Creator Combo becomes an even more attractive option. At $549, down from $629, it's an excellent opportunity to save $80 on a camera that continues to be one of the easiest ways to produce high-quality video wherever you go.

 

 

 

Carnival and festival season is once again upon us and these events give photographers great opportunities to photograph colourful, vibrant and exciting shots.

 

1. What Gear Do I Need:

• A compact with a longer zoom will fit easily in your pocket when moving around the busy streets or pack a DSLR combined with a zoom lens.
• Zoom lens, with a good range – means you can photograph people without getting in their faces and capture a few wide shots of the whole parade. It also means you're not carrying several lenses with you all day which can get tiring.
• Camera Bag – Don't take anything too big as it will just get in the way and make sure you have it with you at all times. You don't want to create a security threat and you don't want anyone to steal your stuff either.
• Memory – Pack spare memory cards and plenty of them. You can end up taking lots and lots of shots at events like these. It doesn't hurt to carry spare batteries, too.
• Support – There won't be room for a tripod so if you really do want some extra support take a monopod with you. Although, at big carnivals such as Notting Hill there may not be the space for one and you can end up getting in the way.

  2. Elbow Room

If you have lots of space to work in without others pushing you or getting in your shot you're very lucky. You can try to arrive very, very early to get a spot at the front of the curb and just be ready for the pushes who try to steal your spot. By arriving early, it also gives you the chance to scout around the parade route to see if you can find the participants setting up. If you do find them, it'll give you a chance to shoot a few portraits before the crowds arrive. Don't be afraid to ask people if you can shoot a few portraits as the majority of them will be happy to stop what they're doing for you and as the parade still hasn't started at that point, their hair and make-up should be perfect, too. If you don't fancy the elbow fight, try and find a spot that gives you a little height over the crowd. This could be steps leading up to a doorway or something in the street you can stand on. Either way, you'll be able to stay in this one location, photographing the parade as it passes without others knocking you or getting in your shot.

  3. Light Problems

Your kit won't like soggy, wet days but bright, sunlight won't do you any favours either as you can end up with shots full of harsh shadows and washed-out colours. Couple with those exposure problems and you can find yourself fighting to get a decent shot. Later in the afternoon the light's lower and more even but the buildings which often run along the sides of the streets the parade makes its way around will start to leave long shadows. If you have exposure problems try bracketing and add a pop of flash to fill in shadows that dance across the faces of those involved in the parade. This works particularly well when they're wearing hats and large headpieces that shade the face.

  4. Don't Miss The Action 

There will be a lot of movement for you to capture and if you want to freeze the dancers in your frame you'll need a quick shutter speed. If you want to be more creative, use slower shutter speeds to blur their movements so the speed they're moving at is exaggerated.

  5. Wide Shots

Wider shots, showing the crowds, street, stalls and parade can be interesting but try not to overrun your shot with too many focal points. If the eye doesn't have something to focus on the shot can be rather confusing and look too busy.

  6. Detail

Costumes often take hours if not days to put together so take the time to focus in on the colours and decorations on them. These close up shots work well when positioned against larger shots of the parade.

  7. Street Candids

Try shooting from the hip to see what shots of the crowd you can capture and don't forget about the food stalls, merchandise booths and even the long, long queues for the toilets which all help you create a great, overall account of the carnival.
 

 

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  Every year for one weekend in August Ramsey and the people who visit take a step back in time and celebrate the 1940s. The event, which you can find more information about on the Ramsey 1940's weekend website, is a great place to take your camera to and you're also guaranteed to have some fun while you are there. If you can't get to Ramsey there are plenty of other events that take place right across the country.     1. Gear Suggestions

If you arrive before the crowds then a 50mm lens is perfect for capturing people in costume but when the masses arrive or if you like to have a little more versatility, pack a zoom lens that gives you wide to mid-range focal lengths. A tripod's always helpful, particularly if you're heading to the dance in the evening when the light will be lower. They can be a little clunky and can get in the way though so you may like the flexibility a monopod gives you instead. Flash may be handy in the evening, but you could just turn up your ISO slightly or pop your camera on a tripod and use slightly longer shutter speeds.
 

2. Picking A Subject

When you arrive you'll find plenty of people dressed in 1940s clobber and RAF uniforms who are perfect for a nostalgic portrait shot or two. Some people will be so fabulously dressed they'll just shout: 'photograph me' at you but make sure you take a good walk around to see who else is hiding among the vehicles and stalls. You could get a few candid snaps of the crowds as you do so too.

 

 

3. Ask If It's OK

When you do find your subject make sure you ask their permission and don't be in a hurry to photograph them where they stand as you could look back and realise you have a modern car or burger van ruining your shot. You can try and throw the ugly background out of focus but if you have the time, make the effort to chat to your subject and ask them to move somewhere that's more appropriate. You still may want to throw the background out of focus and leave all the attention on your subject, but at least the blurred objects and shapes will be more fitting to the era you're trying to capture. If you can, do take your time when you're looking through the viewfinder and pay particular attention to their costume. It's amazing how straightening a skirt or fastening up a button can make a big difference to the overall shot.

 

4. Capture Movement

If you hang around for the dance you'll need fast shutter speeds to freeze the action on the dance floor or put your camera on a tripod and slow your shutter speeds to blur the movement of the skirts/dresses as they spin around. There will also be plenty of candids off the dance floor such as to capture too. 
 

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- Partner Content -

 

 

Capturing the best possible quality of a video in-camera on set is mostly the best approach. Still, there are occasions when post-processing helps rescue low-quality videos or refine HD videos for better visual experiences.

When comparing and testing the best video enhancers, the following aspects are taken into consideration. You can refer to them when picking the best fit for your scenarios.

• Natural look and enhancement strength: Does the output remain realistic? Can users fine-tune the enhancement manually instead of over-processing the footage?
• Temporal consistency: Does the enhanced video remain smooth and free of flickering?
• Noise reduction and detail restoration: Can the video enhancer remove unwanted noise while preserving natural textures and intentional film grain?
• Processing speed: Besides hardware performance, how efficiently does the software utilize available CPU and GPU resources?
• Workflow flexibility: Is it a standalone application, an online service, or a plugin? Can it fit into different editing workflows?

 

Testing Video Enhancers for Various Scenarios

 

Bearing in mind these aspects, I evaluated each video enhancement software and online app using footage of various types and with different quality issues.

The tests start with Aiarty Video Enhancer, with comparisons in the case studies below. You can claim a Free License from Aiarty to access the full features and check if it fits your projects.

The same clips were also processed with popular tools, including Topaz Video, DaVinci Resolve, and several open-source models and online video enhancers. Their strengths vary depending on the footage, workflow, and hardware, as summarized in the comparison chart.

 

Case 1: Enhance Low-Resolution Videos and Restore Skin Details

Portrait videos can appear blurry on a larger screen or when reframed for different platforms. AI-powered video enhancement software helps restore clarity while preserving skin details.

 

 

Aiarty Video Enhancer offers both AI-powered automatic enhancement and manual fine-tuning, making it easy to balance detail recovery with a natural output while avoiding an over-sharpened or painterly look. For this clip, I applied the superVideo vHQ model, manually set the enhancement strength to around 0.85-0.9, and slightly adjusted the exposure to better suit the indoor environment.

For the same footage, Topaz Video produced good results with the Iris model, Recover Detail set to 20 to 25, and 2x upscaling for higher output quality.

 

Case 2: Fix Noisy and Low-light Footage

Below is a mobile recording of a harbor near Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg. It was captured at dawn under limited lighting, and the small sensor of the iPhone 6 makes the footage grainy and noisy.

 

 

After processing the clip in Aiarty Video Enhancer, the superVideo model automatically reduces distracting noise, while manually setting the enhancement strength to around 0.9-0.95 helps preserve fine grain and texture for a more natural look.

 

Case 3: Restore Soft, Old Videos and Enhance Quality

This clip of the Prague Astronomical Clock was shot with Olympus E-M10 II about a decade ago. It was uploaded as a travel memory to share with friends and later downloaded again. 

Partly due to digital zoom and partly due to online compression, the old footage now looks somewhat soft and blurry. The intricate structures of the clock and the Gothic sculptures are less clear.

 

 

After enhancing it with Aiarty Video Enhancer, both the moDetail-HQ model and the superVideo vHQ model help restore architectural details, fix softness, and avoid a mushy look. Optionally, upscaling the video by 2x to 4K and manually increasing the exposure by +1 further improves the overall video quality.

The above test cases also produced good results in DaVinci Resolve using AI Noise Reduction and Super Scale, and in Topaz Video using the Film 4K Medium model with manual adjustments.

 

Best Free and Paid Video Enhancers Hands-On
Topaz Video

• Ideal for: Professionals with powerful workstations and videographers already working within the video editing ecosystem.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows, Mac, web, Adobe and DaVinci integration. $59/month for Personal, $69/month for Topaz Studio.

Topaz Video is a widely used AI video enhancer. It pioneered commercial diffusion-based video enhancement with Project Starlight to generate details for videos. Topaz combines several AI models into project-based workflows, including 4K video upscaling, noise removal, SDR to HDR, frame interpolation, video stabilization, motion deblur, and face recovery.

Depending on the video type or quality issue, users can process footage with different models, render previews, and adjust parameters to recover detail, improve sharpness, or restore focus.

 

Enhancing with Topaz: Proteus or Iris model, AI upscaling, Recover Detail+38, other manual tweaks

 

Comparing the available models, I recommend using Proteus Natural for overall enhancement and dehaloing, Nyx for noise removal, Iris for face restoration, and Starlight for severely degraded videos or gradual upscaling from 480p to 720p and then to 1440p. With the introduction of NeuroServer, Starlight variants can also run locally on systems with sufficient VRAM and a powerful GPU.

If your local hardware struggles with computationally intensive enhancement tasks, such as Strong Refocus or Starlight restoration, you can purchase cloud credits to process the footage online.

 

Aiarty Video Enhancer

• Ideal for: Videographers, content creators, and home users seeking a standalone tool and prioritizing natural, realistic video quality enhancement.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows and Mac. $165 Lifetime License, $79 Standard License, free trials available.

Aiarty Video Enhancer is a popular choice for users needing a standalone video enhancer with natural output quality. It avoids an over-smoothed, plastic look by providing tailored deep learning models with manual strength controls.

As shown in the previous tests, it uses AI-powered auto inference to reduce high ISO noise, improve the clarity of soft footage, restore skin details, and preserve natural textures. Optionally, you can upscale low-resolution videos to 2K or 4K, adjust colors, increase the frame rate, and enhance audio quality.

 

Enhancing with Aiarty: superVideo model, x2 upscale, 0.85-0.90 strength, subtle color adjustments

 

With the real-time previewer, it is straightforward for users to quickly compare models and parameter settings, helping them find the best combination for a specific video before committing to the output.

With the Step Mode and Turbo speed choices, Aiarty scales well from everyday computers to high-end workstations. Casual users can enhance videos on a general device, while demanding restoration tasks and batch 4K upscaling benefit from more powerful GPUs.

 

DaVinci Resolve

• Ideal for: Videographers, colorists, and serious content creators.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows, Mac, and Linux. Studio version for $295, Free version without AI tools.

DaVinci Resolve is a fully-fledged video editor and color grading software. With editing features to sharpen videos, fix blurry footage, enhance contrast, and remove noise, you can surely use it as the best free video enhancer for desktops.

The free version offers powerful manual tools to improve your footage. You can fix underexposed videos, dehaze mushy footage, recover shadow detail, and pull back crushed highlights. For faithful enhancement, you can rely on traditional sharpening, timeline upscaling with Bicubic algorithms, and color corrections.

Tips: Use shortcut key Ctrl+= to zoom in and inspect details. For full screen preview, press Ctrl+F.

 

Testing DaVinci Resolve: 2X Super Scale (1080p to 2160p), 0.5 Sharpness

 

In the Studio version, you can unlock more AI features powered by the DaVinci Neural Engine. AI UltraNR, AI Ultra Sharpen, and Super Scale handle more challenging videos when traditional methods fail.

Since DaVinci adopts a node-based pipeline, you can apply quality enhancements in a non-destructive way and compare the results. A good rule of thumb is to remove noise when necessary, then apply color corrections and sharpening.

 

TensorPix

• Ideal for: Beginners and casual creators enhancing a few low-resolution videos, without installation.
• Platforms and pricing: Online enhancer. Free trial (1 credit equals roughly 2-min video enhancement), standard plan starts from $12.00/month.

TensorPix is a simple-to-use AI video enhancer online. It supports 2x and 4x video upscaling, artifact removal, FPS boost, and audio enhancement. Once you upload a short video to their server, you can specify whether the video is mainly about portrait, anime, landscape, AIGC, or other types. This gives the AI model better context before processing.

 

Testing Tensorpix: 960p to 2160p. Parameters: 4X Upscale ultra4, Clear Edge-AI sharpen 2.5

 

While local tools such as Topaz and Aiarty focus on natural detail restoration and 4K upscaling, TensorPix works for short-form videos and webcam captures. For quality problems such as dust and scratches from digitized 8mm tape, you can enable AI Dust Buster to make the video clearer.

 

Video2X

• Ideal for: Tech-savvy users and enthusiasts mainly focused on anime restoration and upscaling.
• Platforms and pricing: Windows and Linux (Free, Open Source); Online (Video2X Pro subscription)

Being open-source and free, Video2X wins the love of tech-savvy users to enhance video quality and resolution. Initially built to upscale and sharpen anime footage, most of its baked-in algorithms and models were suitable for cartoons and animations.

The developer of Video2X gradually integrates Real-ESRGAN models for live-action video upscaling and RIFE for frame interpolation. To avoid a cartoonish look on real-world videos, make sure you are using the correct filters and models.

 

Testing Video2X: source 720x1366; enhanced 2880x5464. Model: realesrgan-plus vs realcugan

 

Based on my test, here are tips to use a suitable model:

For the Real-ESRGAN processing, go with the realesrgan-plus model for camera-shot footage, and the other two models are for anime. If you prefer to be more conservative and fix soft animation, use Real-CUGAN models. For noisy, old animation, or digitized VHS animation captures, use models-se; for 720p source, use models-pro. If the models somehow smooth out the contrast along lines, you can experiment with the models-nose algorithms for a fix.

As shown in the comparison screenshot above, using Realcugan on real-world video can result in cartoonish lines.

Note for Mac users: Video2X only runs on Windows and Linux for now. You can use it via a browser with Google Colab for free sessions. The Video2X Pro offers online video upscaling and quality enhancement, starting from $14.90/month.

 

Wink Video Enhancer

• Ideal for: Reels, short-form videos, and social media content in general; Video enhancement on the go.
• Platforms and pricing: Online Video Enhancer, iOS and Android apps. Complimentary 100 credits, standard plan starts from $14.99/month.

Wink Video Enhancer works both as a video enhancer and beautifier via mobile and online. It includes modules for video repair, upscaling, expansion, retouching, denoising, and color correction.

 

Testing Wink Video Enhancer: Video repair module, auto enhancement, 1080p to 2160p

 

For video quality fixes, the app prioritizes auto-enhancement over manual editing. During my tests, after uploading this cropped kingfisher video, Wink would analyze and display the quality problems. It then automatically applied enhancement to the clip. 

For portrait videos, Wink also helps smooth skin, whiten teeth, and adjust lighting accordingly. To some degree, the beauty-filter aesthetic is a matter of personal preference.

Tip: If you are looking for granular manual tuning and professional cinematic restoration, Topaz Video and Aiarty Video Enhancer are designed for these scenarios.

 

Replicate

• Ideal for: Enthusiasts exploring AI models for video enhancement, video face restoration, colorization, and super-resolution.
• Platforms and pricing: Web; pay-as-you-go pricing based on compute usage. Some models also offer free trial runs.

At first glance, Replicate might seem out of place in this list of the best video enhancer tools. Rather than being a standalone app or online video enhancer, it's a cloud platform that hosts AI models for media generation and video quality enhancement.

Replicate has a dedicated collection page of AI models to enhance videos. It hosts video upscalers from Crystal and Topazlabs, a Stable video face restoration (SVFR) tool, a deodify video colorizer, animation video super resolution models, and many others.

 

 

Based on my tests, a seamless workflow is to complete the video restoration process first and leave video upscaling as the final step. 

For instance, for portrait videos with low-resolution faces, use GFPGAN Video or SVFR for face restoration; for old black-and-white footage, use DeOldify Video for colorization. In the final step, choose Real-ESRGAN Video, Topaz Video Upscale, or AnimeSR based on your video type, desired quality, and budget. 

 

Key Takeaways 

 

For users who have already tried other tools before reading this blog, you have probably experienced some common frustrations: waiting a long time for processing only to get unnatural, over-processed, painterly results; or using a free open-source workflow that comes with a steep learning curve.

Depending on your specific needs, expectations, skill level, and budget, you can choose from the best video enhancement software and web tools below.

 

Video Enhancer Best For Skill Level Availability Topaz Video Professional AI restoration, detail generation, and Adobe integration Intermediate to advanced

• $59/month for Personal
• $69/month for Topaz Studio.

Aiarty Video Enhancer Natural and realistic output, batch enhancement, standalone workflows Casual users, intermediate, and professionals

• Free License for light users and bulk projects 
• Lifetime License for $165 with unlimited free updates

DaVinci Resolve Video editing with seamless quality enhancement Professionals and dedicated colorists

• $295 Studio version
• Free version without AI tools

TensorPix Quick online enhancement, no installation Beginner

• Starts from $12.00/month

Video2X Anime restoration and upscaling Advanced

• Free, Open Source

Wink Video Enhancer Short-form video enhancement Beginner

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Replicate Experimenting with open-source AI models and custom workflows Advanced

• Pay-as-you-go API
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For first-time users, hobbyists, and content creators who want high-quality results without going through dozens of installations and hours of testing, a practical approach is to start with one or two tools, test them with two or three common scenarios, and pay attention to these aspects:

• All-around video enhancement: Upscaling to 2K and 4K, noise reduction, low-light enhancement, deblurring, compression artifact removal, deinterlacing old videos, audio cleanup, color correction, and frame interpolation for low FPS footage.
• Natural-looking results: Look for tailored AI models and adjustable parameters that enhance different types of footage without creating an over-sharpened or painterly appearance.

Based on the above tests, Aiarty Video Enhancer offers balanced combinations of natural visual quality, enhancement capabilities, ease of use, and hardware compatibility. If you'd like to evaluate it with your own footage, you can start with the Free License from Aiarty Video Enhancer and see whether it fits your workflows and restoration needs.

 

Zoom burst photography is a photography technique that is achieved by zooming your lens in or out whilst the exposure is being taken. It's a great technique for exaggerating movement or for just adding an abstract feel to an image. Colourful subjects or scenes with patterns work well as they help create a really striking zoom burst that's full of bright, colourful lines.

 

1. Equipment Check List

To get the desired effect, you'll need your zoom lens and a tripod, to keep the image steady, plus this will allow you to have your hands free to smoothly control the zoom. A zoom with a good range to play with will mean you can get a really even effect, with some nice long streaks guiding the eye through the image. You'll also need a remote or cable release to eliminate any shake caused by pressing the shutter. If you don't have one, then use the self-timer setting on your camera. Using the flash on your camera or an external flash gun can help to add sharpness and freeze the image too.

 

2. Get The Zoom Right

The key to success with this technique is to get the amount of zoom burst right. If the zoom is too obvious then it may disguise the subject. If you don't zoom enough, then the image won't have the desired effect. You don't want your exposure to be too long, otherwise, your shots will be overexposed, but it needs to be long enough to enable you to create the zoom effect.

To create the effect you can zoom in or out, most people choose to zoom out. Press the shutter and wait for a while, around half to three-quarters of the exposure should do it, and then you need to zoom out in a smooth and fast manner. Leaving the image to develop for half to three-quarters of the exposure beforehand allows some definition to be captured in the image before the zoom is added. Try somewhere between 1-3 seconds for your starting exposure length and extended if it's needed. If you can, it's worth locking the focus, too so it stays constant.

Use a small aperture and an ISO of 100 or 200 for the best results. If you find that your images come out overexposed, it's probably best not to make the exposure time shorter as this will make it more difficult to fit the zoom in. Fit a polarising filter or ND filter instead and try again.
 

3. Experiment & Try Again

It's then quick and easy to see on the screen if your attempt was successful. If it wasn't, you can try again straight away. Experiment with the shutter speed and zoom timing until you find something that works for you and your subject. You may find you need to crop the shot for better composition but as the vanishing point will be in the middle of the frame, this won't cause any problems.

To be different, why not zoom in, try a shorter zoom, experiment with city lights at night or rotate the lens to add circular shape to your lines? If one idea doesn't work just delete the image and try again.

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

A lovely shot of a cuckoo in flight has picked up the POTW accolade this week.

The image, taken by ePz member Nick_w, is titled 'Cuckoo Calling', and the timing on it is great. Wings fully up, tail fanned right out, you get a proper look at all that barring and the white tail spots. It's even got something caught in its beak, along with a blade of grass, which adds another point of interest to the shot.

The plain, soft background really helps too, with nothing to compete with the bird. Its bright orange eye and orange feet stand out against the grey plumage, while the sharp detail makes this an impressive image. Cuckoos are not the easiest birds to photograph in flight, making this a well-earned POTW winner.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

 

Photography has a fantastic ability to isolate things: details, shapes, colours or patterns. You can remove a subject from its distracting surroundings in just the same way that you can place it there; by thoughtful framing. During your travels see if you can find patterns in the places you visit that will remind you of the trip later.

 

1. Gear Choices

There is no special equipment needed to photograph pattern, though standard and slightly longer lenses can make the framing easier, but you do need to look carefully at what you are shooting. Very long lenses are also useful since they will flatten the perspective of distant shapes which often uncovers the patterns they make. Try and fill the frame aligning the pattern carefully. A tripod makes this easier but is not essential. You can crop out distractions later, but it is better to get it right ‘in camera’.

 

2. Patterns Are Everywhere

 

Patterns can be quite addictive: once you start seeing them it is hard to stop. Look for quantities of a single item and see how they fit together, regularly or random. In nature, this could be stones on a beach or marks in the sand, clouds or a flock of birds, even the leaves on a tree. In towns, look along streets at how the buildings fit together, sometimes just the steps leading to the door of a building make a good pattern.

Markets and Souvenir Shops are great places to find patterns: stockpiled high or artfully displayed is a gift to a photographer. Whether it is tourist tat or delicious-looking local produce it is likely to work as both a reminder of your holiday and an interesting composition. Look out especially for shops selling lots of versions of a similar thing; they often fit together really nicely. Don’t be afraid to get right in close.

Buildings and architecture by their very nature are full of patterns, but look beyond the obvious: bricks and tiles work, but so do whole buildings if viewed from the right angle. If you can get above the roof level of a town the rooftops will often make beautiful patterns. The great thing about patterns is that they do not have a particular scale; they can be vast or macro, but to make a good picture out of a pattern, the pattern needs to be the star.

 

3. How To Capture Patterns Successfully

 

There are no rules other than that you should crop tight to fill the frame. You may like to avoid irregularities (though I rather like them since they seem to emphasize the pattern). You can shoot square on or oblique and, if you are shooting oblique, you can shoot wide open to isolate a detail in the shot or stop down to keep it all sharp, so set the camera to aperture priority to make life easier. Whatever you choose make it a definite choice, very narrow depth of field or very deep, otherwise, it won’t look intentional.

You will generally only need to add a little extra contrast to emphasize the pattern, this can be achieved with a simple curves adjustment. But the graphic nature of patterns means that they are often ideally suited to image manipulation if you want to.

Even the most mundane subject can give you a good picture; you just need enough of it to make a strong pattern.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

An exciting black and white shot of a little girl that's full of energy with a great sense of speed has won our 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) award on ePHOTOzine.

'In a Spin' was captured by PeterDavidson and we loved the spot-on timing, composition and genuine feeling of this fun action portrait. The fast motion blur in the background makes it stand out and conveys thrill and excitement in a very authentic way. It hooks you immediately and once you spot the image in the Gallery, you naturally keep looking right at the girl's wide-eyed face. There is often beauty in a candid moment and this photo is an excellent example of this.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! 

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

 

The longer reach of telephoto lenses is a brilliant thing for photographers who want to photograph shy wildlife, pull far away subjects closer or simply want to fill the frame to create an attention-grabbing shot. 

To show you just how versatile a telephoto lens can be, we've got a top list of 8 ways these long lenses can be used. Plus, should you be in the market for a new telephoto lens, we have quite a few top telephoto lenses featured in our top lists which include both Telephoto Prime Lenses and Telephoto Zoom Lenses. 

If you're not sure if you should purchase a zoom or prime lens, have a read of this tutorial: Prime Vs Zoom Lenses

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Here Are Our 8 Top Ways To Use A Telephoto Lens:
1. Bring Far Subjects Close

© Joshua Waller

 

The telephoto effect these lenses have make objects, that may actually have quite a lot of distance between them, appear as if they're sat close together. The longer your focal length, the more obvious the effect will be. It's useful when you have a city skyline or mountains in the background which will give you a more interesting and pleasing shot if they're pulled a little closer to the object closer to your lens e.g. the bridge, building or boulder that's your main point of focus.

 

2. Fill The Frame

© Joshua Waller

 

When you want to exclude some part of what's in your frame e.g. a boring grey sky that's in the background of your landscape shot, use a telephoto lens to focus in on the colourful tree line rather than having the trees and sky in shot. It'll also pull a distant subject closer to you, which means you can get frame-filling shots of shy wildlife or of a particular aspect of the landscape that's too far for you to get to.

 

3. Pick Distant Subjects Out

© Joshua Waller

 

If you want to draw attention to a particular aspect that would be lost if shot with a wider focal length, use a telephoto lens to isolate your subject. You can do this with shorter focal lengths, but the longer reach of a telephoto means you can isolate a subject that's some distance away from where you're shooting from.

 

4. Capture Shots Of Wildlife

© Richard Hanson

 

As a telephoto lens closes the distance between you and whatever you're photographing, it's an ideal lens for photographing wildlife. With a telephoto lens you'll be able to take shots that look like you were just a few steps away from your subject when really you were some distance away. This distance means your subject won't be scared off and if you're shooting what could be considered as a dangerous animal, the distance makes it safer for you.

    5. Photograph The Moon

© Joshua Waller

 

Your shots won't be as good as those who use telescopes, but you can still get excellent shots of the moon with a long telephoto lens. As well as a very long lens you also need a tripod, clear skies, good weather, remote/cable release, a few hours to spare and good technique. You can even take a number of shots, and combine multiple shots to produce a sharper image.

 

6. Portraits

© Joshua Waller

 

Shooting head or head and shoulder shots with a longer focal length can give a better perspective and allows for a tighter crop when working further away from your subject. This distance also means you don't have to work too close to your subject and as a result, they'll be more comfortable, and you'll have more natural-looking portraits. You'll also be able to capture shots without any distortion and backgrounds are more easily thrown out of focus, even when they are just a couple of meters behind your subject, meaning all focus falls directly on your subject. Just keep an eye on your shutter speed if working hand-held, though, as you don't want shake spoiling your shot. Find more tips on shooting portraits.

 

7. Shallow Depth Of Field

© Joshua Waller

 

As mentioned above, telephoto lenses make it easier to get the blurry backgrounds in photos that isolate your subject and really make them the focus of your shot. You don't want a distracting background detail competing for the viewer's attention and a shallow depth of field will make sure this doesn't happen.

 

8. Capture Action

© Joshua Waller

 

For fast-paced action that you can't get close to e.g. motorsport and flying events, you'll need the longer focal lengths telephotos give you as most of the time, it'll be impossible to get close to the action. To create a sense of pace, use your telephoto lens to shoot a few shots where your subject is sharp but the background is nicely thrown out of focus. How good you are at panning, what shutter speed you use, how fast your subject is moving and how much light's around will make this task harder / easier every time you head to the track, but do it a few times and you'll soon perfect your technique.

  More Top Tips

How about picking up some top composition tips that will help you perfect the shots you capture with your telephoto lens? There are also hundreds of top tutorials to read in our 'How To' section of the site. 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to TheShaker (Day 30 - 'Beautiful Bokeh').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 25

'Hot' Theme

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Day 26

Ruins

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Day 27

Big, Bold Skies

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Day 28

Black & White Buildings

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  Day 29

Eyes

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Day 31

'Yellow' Colour Theme

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

Always an interesting subject for photographers, standing stones and stone circles have fascinated people for centuries; but what is the best way to photograph them?

 

1. Lens Choice

Use a wider angle lens 16-20mm (about 24-30mm in 35mm terms)
 

2. Focus On Parts Of The Circle

Try isolating two or three of the stones and shoot from a low angle.

3. Get Up High

Find a vantage point at a distance where you can shoot the entire ring from a higher point to show its shape.
 

4. Check The Weather 

Shoot on a bright day for contrast and texture in the stones, but watch for shadows.
 

5. Get Down Low

Shoot from a low viewpoint to make the stones appear large and dominating.

 

 

6. Go Mono

Try switching to black & white or shoot in infrared for a more moody result.
 

7. Use Filters

Use a polariser to darken the blue sky to give the shot more impact.
 

8. Try HDR

Bracket the exposure and merge using HDR technique rather than using a graduated filter as the filter will darken the top half of the stone.
 

9. No People

Avoid shots with people if you don't want to date the photograph.
 

10. Create Scale

Include people if you want to show a sense of scale.

 

 

11. Look For Angles

Walk around a few times without taking pictures to get a feeling for the stones and the best angles.
 

12. Early Or Late?

Light is usually better at the start or towards the end of the day, however as fewer people prefer early starts, photographers tend to have to get up early if they want to capture people-free shots.
 

13. Think About The Sky

If you're trying to capture the whole circle, you'll need an interesting (large) sky to add balance to your shot as the foreground will appear to be long and thin.
 

14. Give Panoramas A Try

Try shooting a panorama where you take a series of images that can be joined in post-production (or most cameras have this feature built-in) to capture the whole circle.
 

15. Do Your Research

For inspiration and to find out the location of some of the most photogenic stone circles do you research before you leave your house. We have an article listing some of the most popular stone circles in the UK, you can read it here: Stone Circle Locations

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

It's the school summer holidays here in the UK which means many will be heading to the coast either on day-trips or for a longer holiday which gives us photographers the chance to capture a few coastal landscapes. If you do have coastal landscapes on your summer shoot agenda, here are a few tips to think about.

  1. Time Of Day

You can capture coastal landscapes at any time of the day, however, most photographers favour the light during the 'golden hours'. You get this light regardless of where you are, but it is where it falls that is important. On the east coast, the land gets warm light early in the day but not later when the sea gets the benefit. On the west coast, it is the other way round. But this is a massive generalisation because of the way the coastline is not made up of straight lines. Check an OS map to see the potential of the coastline you're visiting and do your research online to ensure you don't miss the best light.

It's also worth noting that everything from blue skies dotted with white clouds to brewing storm clouds can work well at the coast, you just have to be out at the right time of day with the right gear which includes waterproofs and protection for your camera gear if you're heading out when the heavens have opened.

 

2. Pack The Right Accessories

Wide-angle lenses will be what we tend to reach for first when landscapes are in-mind and a tripod is an essential piece of kit no landscape photographer should be without. As you could be working with lower light levels and slower shutter speeds you may want to consider taking a remote / cable release to reduce the risk of camera shake and make sure image stabilisation is switched off when supporting your kit on a tripod otherwise shake could be introduced. To balance the exposure, you may find an ND grad filter handy as the sky tends to be a lot brighter than other areas of your shot.

 

3. Foreground interest

There's nothing wrong with a photo of an empty beach stretching out for what seems to be miles but by adding some foreground interest you'll give your image more depth, help guide the eye through the shot and keep people interested in your photo for longer. A low angle and a wide-angle lens will help exaggerate the perspective of the shot and anything from rocks and wood that's washed up after a storm to jetties, lobster pots and patterns in the sand can be used to add interest the foreground of your shot. Just remember you'll need a smaller aperture to get everything from the front to the back of the shot in focus. This could increase the exposure time, particularly if you're shooting during the 'golden hours', so make use of your tripod.

Reflections can be used as foreground interest to add more depth to a scene. They'll also help brighten your foreground, making the overall shot more evenly lit. Look for puddles left by the receding tide or try using the water sat in rock pools to capture reflections of a cloud-dotted or sunset sky.

 

 

4. Long exposures

If you're working when the light's lower or just like the 'misty' water effect, you're going to need to use slower shutter speeds. For this, you need a strong, sturdy tripod and you must make sure it's not going to topple over if a wave circles it. Try pushing the legs into the sand slightly to anchor its position; just remember to wash the feet when you get home to get rid of the sand and salt. If it's a particularly bright day you'll need an ND filter to reduce the amount of light reaching the camera's sensor and remember to use low ISOs as well as a small aperture. If you don't want to capture the 'blurred' water shot, you'll need to use quicker shutter speeds, wider apertures and you may need to increase your ISO level. Alternatively, visit the location earlier / later (depending on the time of day) when there's still plenty of light in the sky.

A blurry sky dotted with clouds will give you the chance to create patterns as the longer exposures cause the cloud's movement to stretch across the sky and if you wait until the sun's set you could capture the movement of the stars as trails above the ocean, but this is a wholly different technique in itself.

 

5. Horizons

You don't want it to look like the sea and sand's about to slide out of shot so make sure the horizon's straight and don't put it in the centre of the frame. If the sky's more interesting move the horizon down but if there's more interest in the foreground lose some of the sky and move the horizon up. If you are going to deliberately slope the horizon make sure you make it obvious otherwise it'll just look like you've not looked through the viewfinder to check if the horizon's level or not.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

  1. What's A Catchlight?

A catchlight is simply a light's highlight reflected off the surface of your subject's eyes. They subtly breathe life into portraits by adding a little more depth to the eyes and are something that painters were using in portraits long before photography was a popular pastime.

 

2. How Do I Create Them?

What light source you're using, how strong it is and how far it is from your subject will change the shape and size of the catchlight. The larger the light source, the bigger the catchlight will be and if you have multiple light sources, you can end up with more than one catchlight appearing on the eyes.

You can use artificial or natural light to create catchlights, just remember that direct flash will produce a much smaller catchlight than flash that's reflected off a brolly and if you're working outside, the catchlights can have a slight blue tint to them. When working indoors with fill-in light as well as a key / main light source, your additional, fill-in light may create an additional set of catchlights in your subject's eyes. Some people like the effect so if you're one of these, just make sure one is dimmer than the other so they're not too distracting. You can always try removing one set in your editing software too, but it's always easier to get it right in-camera first rather than relying on Photoshop.

 

 

3. Where To Position The Catchlights?

If you look at the eye as if it was a clock you should try and get the catchlight to sit, ideally, at 10 or 12 o'clock but anywhere between a quarter to and quarter past should work just as well. Of course, this isn't set in stone and you may prefer to use a lower position. Placing your light source above your subject's head will also help you get the positioning of the catchlights right.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

Aperture is very important when it comes to portraiture as it controls how much of the background and foreground is in focus, which has an effect on how much of the focus is on the subject of your portrait. 

 

1. Depth-Of-Field

There is an amount of front and back sharpness in front of and behind the main focus point of your image and this is referred to as the depth-of-field.

The amount of depth-of-field within an image depends on several factors:

• The distance between the camera and the subject - The closer the subject the more shallow the depth-of-field. With distant scenes, therefore, there is plenty of depth-of-field.
• Choice of lens aperture - The wider the lens aperture (ie /2.8, f/4) the shallower the depth-of-field, and the smaller the aperture (f/16, f/22) the greater the depth-of-field.
• Focal length - Contrary to popular belief a wide-angle lens does not give greater depth-of-field than a telephoto lens if the subject magnification is the same. You can test this for yourself. Take a frame-filling headshot with a wide-angle lens (you will have to get close to the subject, so warn them!) and then do the same frame-filling shot with a telephoto – this means backing away from the subject. Use the same aperture for both and you will see that the depth-of-field is the same.

Some cameras come equipped with a depth-of-field preview button, letting you see how much depth-of-field you have before taking the shot, but you can just experiment with depth-of-field and preview the shots on-screen to see what works best if your camera doesn't have this particular function. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

2. Photographing People

In terms of portraits, especially outdoors, wider lens apertures are often best because they throw the background nicely out of focus. How effective this is depends on the scene and focal length as well as aperture choice. If your subject is standing quite close to a distracting background even shooting at f/2.8 or f/4 will not throw the background out of focus but bringing the subject forward a couple of metres should work nicely.

If you do use a wide aperture for your portraits, do make doubly sure that the subject's eyes are in focus. With the shallow depth-of-field created by wide apertures, even a small error can mean unsharp eyes and you do not want that in your portraits.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

3. Bokeh Backgrounds

How the background is thrown out of focus depends on the lens. Bokeh is the term used to describe the pictorial quality of the out of focus blur. Lens design and aperture shape play a large part in how effective its bokeh is, so do try it with your own optics. A good test is shooting a close-up portrait outside against a background with some bright pinpoints of light, ie sun glinting off water, car lights, streetlamps etc.

Of course, you might prefer greater sharpness in your backgrounds and that is when small apertures are used. The important thing is to keep your eye on the background and if it looks messy or cluttered use wide apertures rather than small ones.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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Waterfalls, the pools of water in front of them and streams will always be popular photographic subjects but just because everyone's taking photos of these photogenic landscape spots doesn't mean all of your shots have to be the same as the next photographer who comes along. With this in mind, let us share a few tips with you on how to shoot waterfall shots that have a bit of a twist. 

 

1. Capture More Close-Up Shots

 

Instead of capturing the whole scene why not focus on a small area of the waterfall. Focus on movement and colour rather than a landscape as a whole or use rocks that cause smaller cascades further downstream to fill your images with sharp shapes that contrast well against the smooth flow of water.  

 

2. Use Fast Shutter Speeds

 

When you think of waterfall images the shot of silky water cascading down rocks probably springs to-mind but there's no reason why you can't switch this around and capture a sense of motion and power. If you're working in aperture priority you can set a wide aperture (f/2.8 - 4) to get the quicker shutter speeds you need. You can also bump up your ISO to gain a faster shutter speed. To freeze movement you have to set a fast enough shutter speed to prevent the subject’s movement blurring as it moves across the sensor. What shutter speed you need will change depending on how fast the water is moving so experimentation is key but keeping the speed under one second should be a good starting point.

 

3. Go Abstract - Shoot Bubbles

 

At the foot of the waterfall or even further downstream you'll find water bubbles that can be captured and turned into abstract pieces for your wall. Please take care on slippery rocks and obviously take care of your kit. Remember to wipe it down after use and unless you are using a camera which is weather-resistant try not to stand in a spot where the spray will be a problem. Shoot plenty with fast shutter speeds and focus manually. For more tips on this subject, have a read of this: Why And How To Shoot Creative Abstract Photos Of Water Bubbles

Further downstream the currents of bubbles can be turned into spirals that decorate the surface of the water when shot with longer shutter speeds but try to not make the shutter speed too long as this will add too much blur and you'll lose definition. 

 

4. Head Out On 'Bad' Weather Days

 

Most of us aren't fans of rain and cloudy days but after a shower, foliage appears more vibrant and it'll help your image to really 'pop'. The contrast will be lower too which makes it easier to get the shot you want without having to worry about bracketing. Later in the year when frost and ice begin to make an appearance, you'll be able to capture shots with icicles decorating banks and if it's really cold, the waterfall may be frozen all together giving you the opportunity to capture a waterfall shot that's certainly different from the norm. Just remember to be careful when walking at the side of streams and rivers as surfaces will be slippery. 

 

5. Do A Black & White Conversion 

 

If you think your shot is lacking punch, apply a black & white conversion and you may be surprised with the results. The cascade of water will really stand out against darker, wet rocks and foliage, plus a black and white conversion can often add mood to a waterfall shot that wasn't there in the colour version. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

 

If you're searching for inspiration for a set of photographs, choose a colour and go out and take a series of pictures of that colour, it can be similar objects or totally different subjects, but the linking colour theme means that they can hang together as a panel. 

 

Themes To Choose

Try writing down a colour and then listing as many things as possible that are of that colour. As a suggestion, try some of the following:

• Red: Poppies, phone boxes, post boxes, tomatoes, peppers.
• Yellow: Melons, bananas, daffodils, buttercups.
• Green: Fruit & vegetables, grass, trees.

Other items (cars, doors, cladding on buildings, bottles etc.) come in a huge variety of colours and can be included in any group. There's literally nothing that can't be included.

 

Composition Is Key

When you take a single colour as a subject, you need to ensure that the composition, in terms of shapes, textures and lines to counteract the lack of colour range, so look carefully and spend time composing your images. Also, try going abstract, perhaps using camera movement to take away "reality" and emphasise the "colour".

 

Work On Several Themes

If it's something that appeals to you, try having a number of "themes" on the go at once – it's not something that you have to go out and shoot in a day, but can be built up over weeks or months. The results can be a very powerful set (or sets) of images.

I, for example, spent some time at the coast and walking along the seafront, loved the countless different coloured beach huts; but to photograph a mass of different huts and colours wouldn't have given as coherent a set of images. Having wandered up and down the promenade, I decided that blue would be a good choice, as there was plenty of variety, with all blue elements and strong blues set against more neutral tones (white).

While working on the blue huts, I still made a point of photographing other colours, which can go in collections of other colours at another time.

 

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