DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY NEWS FROM ePHOTOzine

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to JonnyNI (Day 14 - Lights).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Bridges In The Landscape

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Day 10

Music Photography

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Day 11

Shopping

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Day 12

City Skylines

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  Day 13

Stairs & Steps

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Day 15

High-Up

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Day 16

Rugged Landscape

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

When buildings are illuminated at night their shapes and features are enhanced in a very different way than by daylight and it's a great time to take photographs. The most challenging thing is getting the exposure and colour balance right, which we'll help with, otherwise, the standard rules of composition apply which we'll cover briefly first.

 

1. Composition - Don't Forget The Basics 

When shooting upwards expect the building to slope inwards at the top, especially when a wide-angle lens is used. Move to a higher position to reduce the distortion or use a special shift lens that's designed to correct perspective but these are expensive and aren't really a sensible option for the casual shooter.

Try to include the whole building by using a wider angle lens or stepping back to a more suitable viewpoint. Choose the position carefully. The same building could be shot head-on, at an angle of, say, 3/4 or by using a telephoto to capture a section with a more graphical feel. Don't forget you can zoom with your feet as well as your lens, too. When it comes to focusing, manual is your best option. 

  2. Exposures

When the sun goes down the light changes in two ways; firstly the exposure time required increases and secondly the colour of the light becomes warmer. Let's first look at the exposure. In low light, the shutter speed that's necessary to ensure a good exposure will usually be too long to avoid camera shake when hand-holding the camera. Using a tripod enables you to shoot at these long exposure times of between 1/15sec and several seconds or even minutes. If you don't have a tripod you can usually find a wall, lamppost or tree to support the camera, which can help considerably. Or you can try switching to a higher ISO as most cameras now cope well in the higher ranges. This means that in low light situations, such as shooting buildings at night, you can take photos with minimal noise or blurring. You'll also want to put your camera's self-timer into action or use a remote release if you have one as even pressing the shutter button can introduce shake that'll leave your with blurry shots. Consider using the Mirror Lock-up function, too which can be accessed via your camera's menu. 
 

3. Metering

Low light can also fool the camera's meter and this happens because it looks at the mass of dark and tries to compensate to make it mid-grey. By doing so, you get an exposure time that is too long for all the illuminated parts of the scene, such as neon lights, street lights or spotlit areas of a building as they become grossly overexposed.

To avoid this, you need to compensate for it. As a guide, use your exposure compensation setting to reduce the exposure by a couple of stops when most of the area is in darkness and by one stop when the building has a medium coverage of illumination.

 

4. Colour Balance

Illuminated buildings offset against a dark sky can look great, but you have to be careful with the colour as there can be a slightly orange or yellow cast created. Buildings illuminated by artificial light can also be problematic, depending on the lighting used in them. Two popular types are Fluorescent and Tungsten. Fluorescent tend to be used inside in offices and Tungsten in spotlights that part illuminates buildings.

With digital cameras, you can preview the image to check the colour balance and if it doesn't look right, just change the white balance setting you're using. Cloudy will warm your shots up while the Tungsten options will give your images a more blue tone. 

  5. Security

Take care when carrying a camera around at night, especially if you're venturing off the beaten track. Keep alert and where possible, take a friend with you.

  6. What To Capture 

Look for tall buildings you can shoot from. From up high you'll be able to shoot skylines as well as focus on single buildings. For something different, try to shoot the same location in daylight and in the evening. You'll soon see how buildings have a very different feel at night. Cropping in on illuminated buildings can make the image more striking and reduce the black from the surrounding, unlit areas. To give streetlights a 'starburst' use a small aperture which will also give you front-to-back sharpness in your shots too. Exposure times will be longer but if you have your tripod, this won't be an issue. If people are still exploring the city you can use them to add more interest to your shots. Get creative with silhouettes against well-lit structures or how about using slightly longer shutter speeds, say 1/2 a second, to blur the movement of people who pass through your shot. Don't increase your exposure times too much if you want to keep the patterns people create passing through your images though as anything above 15 seconds will probably remove them from your image. Bridges can be used to draw the eye through the image to a particular structure or focus your attention on famous buildings and landmarks which are guaranteed to be lit-up at night.

 

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© Fujifilm

 

Fujifilm has introduced the instax Pal 2, a compact digital camera designed to work seamlessly with the instax printer ecosystem. The upgraded Pal series includes an optical viewfinder and instax Animation mode alongside traditional photo capture, with images transferring via Bluetooth to compatible instax printers and hybrid cameras. Users can choose between instax mini, SQUARE or WIDE instant film formats before adding filters, text and stickers through the camera's built-in interface.

 

From Fujifilm:

 

FUJIFILM Europe GmbH, Imaging Solutions Division, announced the launch of the next generation of its unique, ultra-portable instax Pal™ digital camera series - instax Pal 2™ digital camera (hereafter Pal 2). Pal 2 brings a host of new features to the Pal lineup, like an optical viewfinder and new filters and shooting modes.

"When designing Pal 2, we gathered extensive customer feedback on the original Pal," said Karina Thomsen, Marketing Director, European Consumer Imaging, FUJIFILM Europe, "It's new look is reminiscent of a classic analogue camera, complete with an optical viewfinder, and the ability to send/post images digitally or print images via instax™ smartphone printers or any of our Evo hybrid cameras, Pal 2 puts options in the palm of your hand."  

The dedicated instax Pal™ app lets the user's smartphone act as a remote shutter for hands-free photography. The app also lets users store and transfer their photos via Bluetooth®, while the built-in USB Type-C connector on the camera allows users to connect their smartphone directly to transfer photos into the app. Users can also review their image before transferring via Pal 2's 1.0-inch LCD Screen on the top of the camera.

Users can make their photos personal with any of Pal 2's five filter themes, each with six unique effects. Options also include the ability to switch between instax™ mini, SQUARE, or WIDE instant film and frameless formats before adding filters, text, and stickers. 

Pal 2 includes the instax Animation™ shooting mode – a new way to capture 10 frames and turn them into a playful, flipbook-style animation. Switching modes is quick and intuitive, making it easy to move from still images to animations. To print, users can choose their favourite shot and transfer it directly to any compatible, connected instax™ smartphone printer or hybrid instant camera (sold separately).

 

© Fujifilm

 

Key Features Recap:

• Portable digital camera
• Palm-sized design
• Pal 2 does not print photos - users can print images using instax™ Link series smartphone printers, instax mini LiPlay™ or instax mini Evo™ devices (sold separately). Free smartphone download of the app relating to the applicable instax™ device required. instax™ instant film required for image printing (sold separately). Prints photos in instax™ mini, SQUARE or WIDE formats. 
• Authentic Optical Viewfinder 
• 1.0-inch LCD Screen 
• Capture photos at up to 10 megapixels
• Camera Angle Adjustment Accessory included 
• Five filter themes, each with six unique effects 
• Download of the free instax Pal™ app required for use 
• Holds up to 100 photos at a time before required transfer to free, downloadable instax Pal™ app 
• instax Animation™ shooting mode 
• Wireless Bluetooth® 5.1 smartphone connectivity 
• Built-in USB Type-C connector
• Accepts microSD Card (not included) 
• Includes USB Type-C Cable, Hand Strap, Camera Angle Adjustment Accessory and 1-Year Limited Warranty 

 

© Fujifilm

Pricing and Availability

The instax Pal 2™ digital camera is expected to be available late September 2026 at a Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price of £149.99. Pal 2 will be available in sleek Black or stylish White colour options.  

The instax Pal 2™ digital camera will be available for purchase from the following retailers: 

• FUJIFILM House of Photography
• FUJIFILM eShop
• MyFUJIFILM
• PHOTO by Fujifilm at Primark Birmingham and Manchester
• Amazon
• Currys
• Jessops
• London Camera Exchange

For more information, please visit https://instax.co.uk/instax-pal-2/

© Fujifilm

 

Fujifilm has unveiled the instax Link WIDE 2™ smartphone printer, introducing exciting new ways to print and personalize wide-format photos. Upgrading from its popular predecessor, the new printer features an intuitive Photo Mixer™ for quick collages and scannable QR code integration to embed links, audio, and locations. Read the full release below for complete details on features, pricing, and availability.

 

From Fujifilm:

 

FUJIFILM Europe GmbH, Imaging Solutions Division, announced the launch of the next generation of its WIDE-format smartphone printer - the instax Link WIDE 2™ smartphone printer (hereafter Link WIDE 2). Building on the popularity and success of the original instax Link WIDE™ smartphone printer that debuted in 2021, Link WIDE 2 brings a variety of new, interactive features to fans of instax™ WIDE instant photography.

"Our instax™ WIDE products are always highly sought after by a very dedicated fan base within the instax™ ecosystem," said Karina Thomsen, Marketing Director, European Consumer Imaging, FUJIFILM Europe, "We listened to what our WIDE fans wanted, and what we heard most often and resoundingly was them asking when a new WIDE printer was coming out. Link WIDE 2's new features are designed to make each image distinctly personalised through the accompanying instax Link WIDE™ app. We're excited to see how our WIDE fans get creative with this cool new printer and app." 

A key new feature of Link WIDE 2 is its Photo Mixer™ app feature. Users can pick favourite images from their smartphone's camera roll and with a touch of the "Mix it" button, the app will generate a selection of collage-style layouts to choose from. Users can remix up to five times, then fine-tune with custom edits before quickly printing instax™ WIDE photos or sharing online.

Also, within the instax Link WIDE™ app, users can access a multitude of expressive frames, filters, emojis, colour modes, and text to customise their instax™ photo prints before printing or sharing them. Users can further personalise their images with over 1,600 in-app stickers.

In the app, users can add smartphone-scannable QR codes[1] to their instax™ WIDE photos to share links, locations, hidden messages, or even sound clips related to their images. 

 

© Fujifilm

 

Key Features Recap:

• For use with instax™ WIDE instant film (sold separately) 
• Prints instax™ WIDE photos (approximately 86mm x 106mm) 
• Download of the free instax Link WIDE™ app required 
• Wireless Bluetooth® 5.1 smartphone connectivity - print directly from the instax Pal™ or FUJIFILM X-T30 III digital cameras 
• Intuitive postcard-style collages via the Photo Mixer™ app feature 
• Print still images from video using the instax Link WIDE™ app 
• Use QR Print Mode to add URLs, sounds, locations, and messages 
• Add expressive frames, stickers, emojis, and text 
• Two distinct colour modes: instax-Rich Mode™ or instax-Natural Mode™ 
• USB-Type C port for easy charging 
• Includes USB Type-C Cable, Quick Start Guide and 1-Year Limited Warranty 

 

Pricing and Availability

The instax Link WIDE 2™ smartphone printer is expected to be available late September 2026 at a Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price of £149.99 (including VAT). Link WIDE 2 will be available in two colours, Duo Beige or Duo Blue.

The instax Link WIDE 2™ smartphone printer will be available for purchase from the following retailers: 

• FUJIFILM House of Photography
• FUJIFILM eShop
• MyFUJIFILM
• PHOTO by Fujifilm at Primark Birmingham and Manchester
• Amazon
• Currys
• Jessops
• London Camera Exchange

For more information, please visit https://instax.co.uk/printers/link-wide-2/

 

[1] QR Print 'Record sound' and 'Hidden message' data are securely stored for up to two years

 

When using a tripod on terrain that is rocky, uneven, or hilly, there are a few things that you can do to make sure your tripod is as stable as it can be. Some of these tips may seem like common sense, but they will hopefully help prevent any accidents such as your camera taking a plunge in a river!

 

1. Weight And Load

Before you venture out make sure you're using a tripod that can support the weight of your gear. Also, if you're buying a new tripod and are planning on getting larger heavier lenses in the future do take this into consideration when making your purchase. Look for a light tripod rated for the highest weight as you'll soon notice the weight of your tripod once you're halfway up a wet, uneven hillside. 

 

2. Assess Your Environment

It's always better to be safe than sorry, so make sure that the area is stable enough to stand your tripod on before setting up. If you're working on very rocky terrain or near the edge of a big drop, make sure the tripod is not liable to slip.

It can also take a while to set your tripod up so it's always a good idea to find your location and have some ideas about composition before putting your camera on its support. 

 

3. Legs Before Column

When setting up, extend the legs before extending the centre column. Extending just the centre column is one quick operation and you are ready to shoot, but it is not good technique and can leave you with an unstable base to work with.

 

 

4. Adjust The Legs

Extend the fattest leg section first and keep the thin, spindly legs till last for when you really need the height. Having a wider base to work with is always a wise decision as they are more stable. Many tripods now offer various angle settings that lock at different degrees.

 

5. Ensure Your Tripod Is Level

Many tripods and tripod heads have built-in spirit levels to help you keep the tripod level. If your tripod hasn't, buy a spirit level to fit onto the camera's accessory shoe.

 

6. Position Of Your Tripod's Legs

Point one of the legs towards your subject so you have room for your feet between the two other legs. This will mean you have one less thing you have to worry about falling over when working on tricky terrain. 

 

 

7. What Feet Does Your Tripod Have?

Most tripods have rubber feet which absorb shock and offer good grip, but some do have spiked feet. Spiked feet can be bought as optional accessories or sometimes you can get both types in one. They're particularly useful for outdoor photographers as most of the time you'll end up working on loose soil, dirt, and other surfaces that will be uneven. 

8. Keep It Stable On Windy Days

Some tripods have a hook which you can feature a centre column hook, you can hang a bag of stones or other weighty objects off it to balance the tripod. Another option is to take a heavy camera bag and wrap the strap(s) around the tripod's head to add extra weight. For lighter tripods, use your body as a shield from the wind. Sticking spiked feet into the ground will also help keep the tripod still, they're particularly useful when working at the coast to stop waves knocking your gear into the sea. 

Another option is to use a piece of string or some nylon webbing can add extra stability. Tie one end to the centre column and have the other tied in a loop. Next time in a strong wind, have the string/webbing hanging down and slip your shoe into it and lean down. Your body weight will give extra stability.

   

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The beauty with photography is you're not restricted with how you can take a photograph. You can play with as many lights as you can afford, add filters, gels and play with numerous other gadgets to alter the look of your photograph. But even though there are all these toys waiting to be played with, one of the simplest ways to change the way your image looks is to get up high.
 

1. Gear Choices

A telephoto lens is useful for pulling distant scenes to you while a wide lens is great when you're trying to get a whole town/city in the shot. A tripod's also handy if you're using longer lenses but not always a necessity and they won't be allowed in some locations. If shooting at night, a camera with good low-light capabilities will come in handy. 

  2. Locations

Don't look for your nearest skyscraper, get in a lift, ride to the top floor and start snapping shots of the city. You'll cause more trouble than it's worth, and there are plenty of other places that don't have huge panes of glass between you and the view.

If you're away you probably have a balcony you can get a few shots from or if your hotel has a roof terrace head up there with your kit and set up somewhere out of the way. Just ask if it's OK to do this first otherwise you could raise a few eyebrows. Look out for observation decks, bridges and even the big wheels that are popping up in cities. These usually take an hour to complete a full circle giving you ample time to get a few cracking shots.

 

3. New Look

Shooting straight down on a building that's been photographed hundreds and hundreds of time will instantly make your shot stand out and it will give you the opportunity to include the nearby streets to highlight the shapes and patterns not usually seen. You'll also be able to see how shadows are elongated and help add texture to your image. If you're not far enough away from the town/city all the buildings could appear to be all on the same level so you'll have nothing that distinguishes between foreground or background interest. To combat this problem look for something you can have in your foreground to help break up the shot.

 

 

4. Not So High

If heights aren't your thing why not try climbing a few steps or even standing on a wall to escape the standard view we usually see in shots. Looking over the bannister of a spiral staircase, for example, works well but it is something that's overdone and a little clichéd so be warned. Try taking a walk up a hill in the countryside near a city and you'll be able to shoot down to capture a cityscape.
 

5. Close-Up Work

Look out for buildings which stand out and use your telephoto lens to home in on them. These could be well-known landmarks, churches or even football stadiums.
 

6. Keep Your Feet On The Ground

If you want a series bird's eye view why not try a spot of kite photography? Some have even tried throwing their camera up in the air to put a unique twist on photography from a height. Although, this isn't something we'd recommend doing! 

   

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The image, by BillRookery, is titled 'The Warmth Before Winter' and is a very natural capture of this morning landscape. The early 5am start provided just enough soft light to give an impression of a calm sunrise across the scene.

The golden and amber tones in the sky add a warm colour to the scene, while sunlight hitting the tall grass highlights the slope of the hill. A single sheep eating quietly in the grass also adds something special. The large tree standing at the top of the hill brings the whole morning view together.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners. See the terms and conditions for more information.

 

If you're looking for lighting advice, be it for capturing portraits on a sunny day or shooting landscapes in summer, we probably have a tutorial to help you.

 

1. Five Top Tips On How To Control & Work With Natural Light

Natural light is often the only light available to us when we are out shooting. But far from being an untameable beast, there are several ways that you can control it to achieve your desired photo.

 

2. Photographing Low Light Portraits

Working with just one light, or indeed natural light at dusk, is a great way to create moody portraits that can be full of character. It's a perfect technique for shooting subjects who are a little older as low light can really exaggerate lines and wrinkles but don't let this put you off photographing low light portraits of younger members of your family.

 

3. Six Top Natural Light Portrait Tips For Beginners

Get back to basics and make the most of natural light by capturing portraits without flash or studio lights.

 

4. Five Top Tips On How To Use Window Light For Indoor Portraits

Daylight is free and it is wonderful for portrait work as not only is it flattering and photogenic but it's really easy to work with so it's a good place for beginners to start. You don't need a fancy studio, either, as you can pick a location outdoors or simply set-up next to a window in your own home.  

 

5. Three Top Tips On Using Fill-In Flash For Portraits

Fill-in flash can give images that extra bit of 'pop' they need as we explain in this article.

 

 

6. A Basic Introduction To Outdoor Photography: 4 Top Outdoor Lighting Tips

Light's an important tool for photographers and knowing how to make it work to your advantage when capturing photographs outdoors is essential.

 

7. How To Use Built-In Camera Flash Successfully

Flash can give images that extra bit of 'pop' they need and many cameras feature several flash modes for you to pick from so we're going to talk through the various modes available and how they work. 

 

8. Top Portrait Photography Tips That Use Just One Light

With just 1 studio light, the COOPH team demonstrate how you can create different/unique portraits by manipulating how the light falls to enhance portraits and, as a result, greatly improve your overall results. 

 

9. Three Top Tips On Controlling And Using Flare In Your Photos

If you've ever taken photographs with the sun in front of you, you're likely to have experience flare, which probably spoilt your photograph. However, there are several things you can do to remove it or if you're feeling creative, you can use it in your shots to add a little romanticism, mystery and warmth to your work.

 

10. Nine Portrait Photography Light Hacks In 90 Seconds

We've got 9 lighting hacks to share with you which you can use the next time you're capturing portraits.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

 

Stairs and steps may sound boring, however, when you start thinking about the materials they're made from and the shapes and styles that exist, you'll soon realise there's plenty of steps to keep you and your camera occupied. Be it a graphical shot of an industrial set of steps leading up the side of a metal structure or a spiral staircase in a grand house, if you keep your eyes open, you'll soon realise there are many interesting sets of steps and stairs around you that will make an interesting image. Here are a few tips to get you thinking about how you can capture shots of these subjects next time you're out exploring with your camera. 

 

1. Gear Suggestions

A wide-angle lens will exaggerate the twists and turns of a spiral staircase while a telephoto lens is good for bringing staircases on the outside of buildings to you. Pack a polariser for stairs against glass or reflective surfaces and a tripod would be handy to help you make sure that the stairs are perfectly straight.

 

2. Guide The Eye

As stairs take you somewhere they're naturally a great way to lead you into and through an image. They can be used to guide the eye to a particular feature or you could hide the last part of the staircase to leave the viewer wondering where the stairs may go to. Lines are a great way to lead the eye into the image and you don't get a better line than a long bannister so use them to your advantage.

 

3. Spirals

Stand at the top or bottom of a spiral staircase with your wide-angle lens and you can get a great but rather overdone shot of the spiral shape twisting up. Try getting someone to stand or lay at the bottom or carefully peek over the bannister at the top and use the spiralling stairs as a frame.

 

 

 

4. Movement And Size

For your more normal staircases use your wide-angle lens to exaggerate the grandeur of a particularly wide, long set of stairs or use a slow shutter speed if you're in a city and blur the movement of city-goers as they pass through your shot. Zoom in and fill the frame with repeating patterns of stairs to exaggerate their size which will also give your image a more graphical feel. 

 

5. Reflections

Some staircases go up the outside of buildings so use your telephoto lens to bring them to you. This lens is also great if your stairs are reflected to give you symmetry in your shot. Try to stand so you're in the centre of the stairs and reflection to enhance the pattern.

 

6. Be Different

For something different try to shoot through the spindles to the other side of the staircase or if you're outdoors, use them to frame a single building or a shot of showing part of the city. Try altering your angle, shooting lower down to emphasise the height and/or the number of steps in front of you. Many cameras now have vari-angle LCD screens which allow you to frame your subjects from multiple angles with ease. Which means you won't have to get down on your knees or crouch when capturing low-angled shots. Use light and shadows to add depth, shapes and another level of interest to your shots and experiment with colour, too as turning an image black & white can really make the viewer focus on the shapes and textures of an image when the colour's stripped away. 

 

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

City life's not for everyone but as the sun begins to set find yourself a vantage point where you can see most of the city skyline and you'll soon have a photograph that may make you rethink your dislike for cities. One of the best times for photographing city skylines is when the sun's begun to set so there's still a touch of blue in the sky but the light's not too harsh so make sure you're on your chosen vantage point well before sunset. 

 

1. Gear Choices

Pack a wide lens for capturing the big picture and a telephoto for singling out individual buildings and pulling distant objects towards you on your evening jaunt. Taking a tripod with you is advised but do leave your flashgun at home and turn your on-camera flash off as if it fires, it can ruin your skyline shot.

Most cameras, even compacts and smartphones are capable of producing night shots of decent quality but if you're planning on using much lengthier exposure times, you'll want to pack a more advanced camera. 

 

2. Where To Stand With Your Kit

While on holiday (if you have a room with a view) make use of the balcony to give you a high vantage point of the city. You'll also find buildings with observation decks, bridges to stand on and if you're in a city such as Sheffield which has the peak district on its doorstep, try heading for the hills to give you a sweeping shot of the whole city. From high locations you'll be able to capture patterns you can't see at street level such as the lines street lights form as they turn on or the shapes created as city dwellers switch on their lights at home. Street lights look particularly good twinkling against the deep blue sky still lit by the setting sun. Just be careful where you meter from as you don't want the sky or building lights to 'blow out'. Keep an eye on your histogram and take a reading from a darker part of the frame. Another option is to take multiple exposures of the same view so you can combine them to create a shot with a balanced exposure where there's not under- or over-exposed areas in the image. 

 

3. Taking Photos Through Glass

If you've got to capture your image through glass do check for marks and smudges that will spoil your shot. If you can't remove them, experiment with your aperture to see if one particular f-number will remove them from the shot. You'll also need to put the lens as close to the glass as possible and cup it with your hand, a cloth or whatever else you have that will reduce the amount of interior light reaching your lens. If you don't, you'll end up with reflections and flare could spoil your shots. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

4. Depth Of Field 

You'll want to use an aperture that gives your shot plenty of depth of field, around f/8 is a good place to start, and try to stick to lower ISOs where possible. You may find you need to adjust this to increase shutter speeds but if you're using a tripod, longer exposures won't be an issue. If you have it available, the depth of field preview button can help ensure your shot is sharp from front to back. 

Foreground interest can add another level interest and 'fill' empty space that can occur when focusing on subjects in the distance. However, do make sure it's not stealing the spotlight and pulling the viewer's attention away from the skyline. 

 

5. Shoot Silhouettes 

Silhouetted cityscapes are popular subjects and they work well against a plain but bright background. Even though they're a little clichéd sunsets do work well particularly if it's one that's rich with colour. To create your silhouette you need to expose for the background and not the buildings you want to silhouette. You may need to fool your camera when it comes to metering as using the camera's automatic metering won't always give you the silhouette you're after. Try half-pressing the shutter button while focused on the brightest part of your scene before moving back to frame the shot but this means your camera will focus on this and not your subject. Manual focus or using a smaller aperture can combat this problem. Talking of manual focus, you should consider using this even when not shooting silhouettes as it'll always produce better results, plus auto-focus tends to struggle as light levels fall. 

 

6. Shots At Street Level

As well as getting up high working at street level can work well in the evening too. Try using long exposures (20-30 seconds) to set the dark sky and buildings against the streak of lights that come from the traffic as it moves through the city streets. You could even combine multiple traffic streak shots to increase the sense of speed and movement in your city shot. Another way to add a creative twist to your city skyline shots is by incorporating reflections from rivers, lakes or even wet pavements after it's rained. 

 

7. Tall Buildings & Straight Horizons

Pay attention to your horizon and the angle of the buildings as you don't want them to be slanting to one side of the image. A tripod with a spirit level can be handy although many cameras now have these or gridlines built-in. When home, check your city shots for distortion but this is something that can be easily fixed in image editing software. Playing around with the colour balance can enhance and evoke mood, too so don't be afraid to experiment with this. 

 

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