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There is no doubt that the general perception of focal lengths has led us to wider and wider lenses being considered mainstream. Much of this shift also has its origins in significant leaps in manufacturing ability and, of course, increased sophistication in lens design. Alongside this, the price also falls and eventually brings things to within a more accessible reach. And here we are with a full frame 20mm f/2.5 L-mount lens, plus the 24MP Panasonic Lumix S9 camera body to try it out on. It makes a stylish looking package, the spec is interesting and the price is within range, so let's see if the images it produces live up to the same standards and our expectations.

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Handling and Features

We have probably long put aside any idea that mirrorless cameras are expected to be significantly smaller than the DSLRs they have been steadily replacing. In general, the lenses are the same size and weight they have always been and the bulk is such that a camera bag is still needed to carry even the basic kit. However, Panasonic is certainly doing their bit here as the new lens is weighing in at a very modest 142g. The 40.9mm x 69.4mm dimensions are chunky, but the use of plastics has kept that weight down. Construction quality is of a high order and the one focusing/control ring is smooth in operation.

 

 

There is no lens hood provided, a shame especially with a wide angle lens. One can be purchased and will need to use the 62mm standard filter thread. The front element is quite small, but not particularly vulnerable. It has a Fluorine coating to repel dust, moisture and grease, and this makes it easier to keep clean. The lens is also dust, splash and freeze resistant. The operational range is from -10C to +40C.

There are a couple of switches around the lens barrel. The first is the usual AF/MF switch and the second is the AF focus lock. This latter button can also be programmed from the choices in the camera menu.

 

 

Closest focus is 0.18m (0.59') for a maximum magnification of 0.15x. This is usefully close, helping to make compositions with dramatic foregrounds so much easier to produce.

Optical construction is 11 elements in 9 groups, including 3 aspheric and 3 ED (Extra Low Dispersion). The lens is also designed to reduce focus breathing, a feature that will be appreciated by videographers. There is no built-in IS, so shake reduction is deferred to whatever camera body is being used.

Thus finally we arrive at the beautifully polished metal lens mount. Reassuringly held in place by 5 screws (where some lenses only have 3), this is all solidly made and looks as if it will offer long service. It is a firm action that will hopefully ease up a little with use. Overall, the lens has little in the way of controls and also little in the way of vices. The lens is a pleasure to use, so now let's look at the technical performance to see if that matches up with the splendid handling.

 

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Performance

Central sharpness is outstanding from f/2.5 through to f/5.6, excellent from f/8 to f/16 and still very good at f/22. The edges are fair at f/2.5 and f/2.8, very good at f/4, excellent at f/5.6, very good at f/8 and f/11, good at f/16 and fair at f/22. Apart from the slight softness at the edges wide open, this is a very crisp and satisfying lens. There is a weakness at wider apertures and close distances, shown in the text images provided, but otherwise a superb result.

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 MTF Charts Previous Next

How to read our MTF charts

The blue column represents readings from the centre of the picture frame at the various apertures and the green is from the edges.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Panasonic Lumix S9 camera body using Imatest software (www.imatest.com). Want to know more about how we review lenses?

 

CA (Chromatic Aberration) is well under control. There is virtually no CA at the centre of the image, and even the edges show little sign of colour fringing.

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Chromatic Aberration Charts Previous Next

How to read our CA charts

Chromatic aberration (CA) is the lens' inability to focus on the sensor or film all colours of visible light at the same point. Severe chromatic aberration gives a noticeable fringing or a halo effect around sharp edges within the picture. It can be cured in software.

Apochromatic lenses have special lens elements (aspheric, extra-low dispersion etc) to minimize the problem, hence, they usually cost more.

For this review, the lens was tested on a Panasonic Lumix S9 camera body using Imatest software (www.imatest.com).

 

Some barrel distortion is evident, measuring just -0.74%, another excellent result.

Bokeh is a more aesthetic response and cannot be directly measured, but we know the best results when we see them. Despite the lens being ultra-wide and also extremely sharp, the bokeh remains soft and natural. It is much better in this respect than was anticipated.

Flare is not a problem in normal use. Artefacts can be generated under extreme lighting conditions, but the intrusion into the image is minimal.

Vignetting is minimal, the actual figures are very impressive, especially for such a wide lens.

 

Aperture   f/2.5 -1.1 f/2.8 -0.9 f/4 -0.7 f/5.6 -0.5 f/8 -0.5 f/11 -0.5 f/16 -0.5 f/22 -0.5

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Sample Photos Previous Next

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Aperture range Previous Next

You can view additional images in the Equipment Database, where you can add your own reviews, photos and product ratings.

 

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Value For Money

The Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 is priced at £429.00

Looking at currently available L-mount lenses of around 20mm, the following are possible alternatives:

• [AMUK]Sigma 20mm f/1.4 DG DN Art|Sigma 20mm f/1.4 DG DN Art[/AMUK], £899
• [AMUK]Sigma 20mm f/2 DG C|Sigma 20mm f/2 DG C[/AMUK], £659
• [AMUK]Sigma 17mm f/4 DG DN C|Sigma 17mm f/4 DG DN C[/AMUK], £509
• [AMUK]Lumix S 18mm f/1.8|Lumix S 18mm f/1.8[/AMUK], £699

There are even more choices if we also include zoom lenses, but at somewhat higher prices. The new lens is well priced and excellent, so definitely worth serious consideration.

 

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Verdict

In terms of dramatic, sweeping foregrounds and deeply immersive positioning, the ultra-wide lenses are powerful tools that make the photographer seem very much a part of the scene we are observing. This does not just apply to landscapes, but to architecture, street, fashion, even portraiture. It is of course essential that the camera is taken in close, otherwise we end up with just empty foreground and a background reduced in size and stature. As a generality, we need to move in close, then closer...although there are plenty of fine images that break all the rules. A fine example of this is the use of ultra-wide lenses in the trendy Carnaby Street fashion of the “Swinging Sixties” onwards.

The potential is huge, and all delivered in a compact, light and absolutely excellent lens. Without doubt, Highly Recommended.

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Pros

• Outstanding sharpness, especially centrally
• Very low distortion
• Smooth bokeh
• Low CA
• Low flare
• Fast, accurate and virtually silent AF
• Dust, splash and freeze resistant

 

Panasonic Lumix S 20mm f/2.5 Cons

• No Vibration Reduction
• No hood provided

 

 

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You get to a beach at sunrise, the light finally shows up, and nearly every frame you take is the widest view your lens allows. That habit leaves most of a location unphotographed, and it pins the whole morning on one composition and one patch of sky.

 

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The punchy shades of autumn give a photographer the perfect opportunity to capture images with a much more arty feel. For those who enjoy playing around with Photoshop there's a way to turn your autumn forest shots into streaks of bold colour in a few easy steps, or you can create a similar look in-camera if you prefer. If you're out on a breezy day there's a third way you can create autumn abstracts by capturing the movement of leaves. 

 

1. Move Your Camera And Lens

This technique is better known as a drag landscape and we have tips on how to do this in a previous article we published back in the spring. To summarise, you set the exposure going then drag/pan the camera in a particular direction. By doing so the trees will be turned into strong lines of colour that give a twist to the normal autumn shot.

You can also focus in on the leaves and play around with your panning directions to create movement in the image. Moving in a circular motion can work particularly well when you're working with the canopy which tends to have less prominent lines and hard edges. Experiment with the size of the circle you 'draw' as again, this will alter the shapes in the image. 

  2. Create The Look In Photoshop

If you've got a few autumn shots hiding away in your computer's folders you can recreate the look the above technique creates in Photoshop. For step-by-step tips on how to do this, take a look at this tutorial: Abstract Autumn Shots In Photoshop

While you have Photoshop open, why not turn your Autumn drag landscapes into a Triptych too? 

  3. Take Your Images On A Windy Day 

Instead of worrying about wind movement of trees spoiling your shot, take advantage of the weather and emphasise the movement. A long exposure will render the autumn leaves into a creative blur. If you're going for a landscape shot where trees are featured but you do have other parts of the scene you don't want to be so blurred, do make sure you take plenty of images as you don't want to head home and find out nothing was actually sharp in frame. You can then just delete the ones you don't want to keep. You will also have to experiment with shutter speeds to ensure you get movement in the leaves but not in other parts of the image. You could achieve the desired result with multiple exposures, too.    

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to pamelajean (Day 27 - Mountain Landscape).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 24

Market Stalls

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|229889|229889_1790235413.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 25

Motion

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|349646|3961316[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 26

Good Weather

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|54721|54721_1790419452.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 28

Forests

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|11912|3715732[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 29

Arboretum

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|349707|349707_1790664959.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 30

Autumn Close-Ups

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|320788|320788_1790759616.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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1. Gear Suggestions

• Wide-angle lens
• Polarising filter – Helps boost colour
• ND Grad filter – Balances the exposure of the sky and foreground
• Waterproofs – It rains a lot in the UK!

  2. When To Take Your Shots

Early morning or the end of the day is perfect for autumnal photography as the warm colour temperatures of the setting or rising sun boost the autumnal shades. The end of the day tends to be warmer than early morning too which is good news for those stuck in offices all day. Keep an eye on the weather forecast for the evening before you plan on heading out as a cool night helps the autumn shades develop.

Another advantage of heading out of the door early in the morning or later in the evening is the light is more diffused which means the difference between light and shadow areas isn't as extreme. It's still worth keeping an eye on your histogram, something which can be done in Live View on many cameras which means you can see the histogram display change as the scene in front of you alters or as you make tweaks to the exposure. This not only saves times but is a lot easier than making changes, taking a shot then checking the histogram. 

If the sky's proving to be a problem as it's too light, fit an ND filter to your lens to balance the exposure. Of course, if you're not an early riser and don't fancy heading out after your tea you can use editing software to boost the autumn colours in your shots too.
 

3. Where To Go

The Lakes, Peak District and the Brecon Beacons look particularly impressive during autumn but really you just need to go somewhere that gives you a little bit of height and a few breath-taking views.

 

 

4. White Balance

Switch from auto to cloudy or shade to add an extra level of warmth to your shots that really boosts the autumn shades.

5. Look For Contrast

If you're shooting sweeping shots of a forest canopy from a hillside have a look for spots where the oranges and yellows are broken up with greens. Lower down, shoot at the forest's edge, using the shades of a field to contrast with the orange tones of the forest.

Golden coloured leaves pack some punch when framed against a blue sky but don't dismiss dark skies either as overcast days can give you moody, richer looking images. Rain clouds look great on the horizon and once the rain has passed, colours naturally become more saturated. If there's a breeze blowing have a go at using slower shutter speeds to capture the movement of leaves and branches as they blow in the wind to give your images a more abstract feel.

 

6. Foreground Interest

For sweeping scenic shots, it's important to have foreground detail to add depth and to fill what can be a big empty space in front of the lens. It can also add a sense of scale to a shot but don't fill it too much as your shot will end up looking too busy and it'll be hard for the viewer of your shot to find a single point of focus on.

Large rocks and tree stumps work well as foreground interest or you could try setting up your composition with an object that can lead the eye from the front to the back of the shot. Paths created by walkers, streams, walls, fences and bridges all work well. Just remember to use a small aperture (bigger f-number) such as f/11 to keep front to back sharpness.

If you don't want to shoot wide pick up the telephoto lens and use it to focus on a particular point of interest, using its pulling power to isolate your subject.

Remember: Get out of bed early or be prepared to stay out later if mornings aren't your thing, use foreground interest, keep it simple and think about composition before hitting the shutter button.
 

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