Photography News

Water is a brilliant photographic subject as it's so varied, you can capture a different form of it most days. From frost and mist to rain falling on cars, rivers flowing through landscapes and how about getting creative with bubbles? With so many options available, we've covered quite a few water-themed tutorials we want to share with you, all in one place, so you have a water photography reference guide to look at next time you're looking for some inspiration. 

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1. Top Tips On Photographing Water Bubbles

 

I know the first thing some people will ask: 'why?' Well, to be fair, that is a perfectly sound question and yes, why bother standing in a stream and shoot water bubbles. To me, it is because you can and with digital, there is no cost. It is also a nice break from the usual blurred water shots that many of us love. So, while you are out there doing waterfalls, spend a few minutes afterwards trying this subject.

 

2. How To Photograph Wildlife On Water

 

Feeding ducks is something everyone enjoys but next time you head off for your Sunday morning stroll around your local pond, pocket your camera as well as the treats you take for the Mallards and Swans.

 

3. Top Water Sports Photography Tips

 

Head to the coast on a sunny day or even to your local reservoir and you'll probably find someone skimming along the water, holding onto a sail fasted to a windsurf board or getting pulled along by a boat on a board. The pros make it look easy and their jumps, turns and sheer speed make water sports a great photographic subject.

 

4. Our Best Underwater Photography Tips

 

Want to know how to improve your underwater shots? Take a look at these underwater photography tips which we've grouped into common questions which those wanting to try their hand at underwater photography ask. 

 

5. 4 Quick Creative Rain Photography Tips

 

At this time of year, there is a high possibility that you might get caught out by rain showers when you're out exploring. If you do experience some rain, even if you're at home nice and dry when it begins, here are some ways that you can capture rain creatively. 

 

6. How To Photograph Water Creatively - Ice, Fire & High-Speed

 

If you thought H2O was boring, think again as our friends over on the COOPH YouTube channel have put together a really cool tutorial on photographing water creatively. With a DSLR, tripod and a little bit of experimentation, COOPH shows you how to make a real splash with your images! All of the themes are super-easy to follow and the results are really impressive.

 

7. 10 Top Tips On Adding Blur To Water For A Creative Effect

 

Love it or loathe it, blurred water can look great in the right situation so it is always worth a try. For those who are new to the technique, here are 10 tips to get you started in turning even small cascades can look like raging torrents.

 

8. Waterfall Photography Tips: 3 Ways To Photograph Waterfalls

 

When it comes to photographing waterfalls, you can either capture the power and intensity of every cascade or you can slow things down and make the movement the focus of your photo.

 

9. 10 Top Frost Photography Tips For You To Read Today

 

With a cool, clear night comes morning frost and it's a subject that works well for both close-up work and wider landscape shots. For your close-ups of the patterns frost creates, you'll need a macro lens or a 70-200mm zoom lens with extension rings will work just as well if you don't own a macro lens.

 

10. Top Tips On Photographing Water In The Landscape

 

Rivers make a wonderful subject for the outdoor photographer, yet people rarely set out with the intention to photograph them. Rivers offer an abundance of opportunities from grand sweeping vistas to detailed abstracts to wildlife as well as being fantastic places to enjoy the outdoors. Here are 6 key pointers to help you achieve better river and open water landscapes.

Water in the landscape makes a great photograph at any time of the year but in winter, after we've had heavy rainfall or fog's settled in, lakes and rivers suddenly take on a new look that's well worth braving the cold to capture.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

You can use any lens you like for landscape photography as with many things in life, it is not what you have got, it is how you use it.

Your choice of focal length entirely depends on how you want to interpret a scene. It is true that if you put two photographers in front of a stunning scene, one will fit a wide-angle and move in closer and the other will fix a telephoto and take a few steps back. Basically, there is no right or wrong when it comes to lens choice so long as it has produced the image you imagined in the first instance.
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1. Standard Zoom

 

Your standard zoom will find plenty of uses for landscape shooting, and you probably know that already. Its focal length coverage from moderate wide-angle through to short telephoto makes it a perfect partner for general photography.

Using a standard zoom is straightforward enough and the two sections on wide-angle and telephoto lenses cover the key techniques you need to know at the two lens extremes.
 

2. Wide-Angle Lenses

 

Wide-angle lenses have a wide-angle of view so get more into the frame. That is pretty straightforward and that is how such lenses are used, ie to get more in. But wides are also great at letting you get in much closer to the subject, giving greater intimacy.

There is a knack to getting the most from wide-angle lenses. The most important technique is to fill the frame, especially the areas directly in front and directly above the subject. A common mistake of inexperienced wide-anglers is to include too much blank foreground or too much bland sky. To stop this, just look around the whole viewfinder before you take the pictures, and if you think there is too much emptiness use the zoom to alter the crop. Or simply move your feet. It is too easy to be rooted to the ground when taking a stride or two closer to the subject or finding some foreground to fill the frame will improve the picture.

 

3. Telephoto Lenses

 

While wide-angles include more, telephoto lenses let you be much more selective in what you include in your frame. For landscape shooting, a telephoto lets you isolate details and it will also make it easier to crop out a blank sky and compressed perspective.

For landscape work, being able to isolate detail and to compress perspective is a very powerful tool in your armoury. Picking out strong lines, textures and features like trees, barns and so on is incredibly useful. As the saying goes 'less is more'. On days when the sky is not very interesting, a telephoto also makes it much easier to crop it out.

  4. Macro Lenses

 

You might think that a macro lens is not much use for landscape, but you'd be wrong. A typical macro lens is a short telephoto so it has plenty of general uses, but being able to focus really closely can be a real bonus in certain circumstances such as when the light isn't great and you have a very bland sky.

If you have a day like this, turn your attention to micro landscapes where you can use the close-focusing ability of a macro lens to get you right into a scene. With a macro lens, you can explore clumps of moss and lichen or patterns in leaves or flowers.

When working with macro lenses you do have a very limited amount of depth-of-field available even at very small apertures. With this in mind, focus very carefully and use the camera's depth-of-field preview to check what is going to come out sharp at different apertures. If you use the preview, allow your eye to get used to the darker viewfinder image before making an assessment.

Once you are this close, the camera's autofocus can struggle and it will end up searching back and forth for sharp focus. If this happens, just switch to manual focus. Have a tripod handy too as it will help avoid camera shake and allow you to make very precise and repeatable compositions. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

  Take a walk around your town and you'll soon realise there's plenty to make a photographic project from. You'll have a collection of buildings housing a variety of businesses all with their own architectural quirks and highlights. Even if you live in a small village with a pub, a post office and a few small shops you'll still find plenty to photograph.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

A zoom will let you capture details and a wide-angle lens will give you a bigger depth of field to help the viewer understand the location. A tripod is useful but as you're on the move a monopod is even better as is a bag that will give you quick, easy access. Spare batteries are always handy, too.

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2. Time Of Day

As you live there you'll have a rather good idea about what's around your town but do you always go there at the same time? By taking a walk during different times of the day you'll be able to see how the light/angle changes and how many people will be there. If you go early morning you'll find that the light is more diffused whereas twilight will give you a dark blue sky and detail from the lights in the town/city. If you don't want people in your shot then early morning is better and the streets are cleaner, less cluttered. If you want people in your shots, the town at nine o'clock in the morning will have those on the commute while three hours later you'll have shoppers. Also, people do draw attention away from the surroundings so unless they add to the composition of the image do you really want them in the shot?

  3. Patterns, Textures And Reflections

Contrasting architecture, colours and textures work well and all towns feature buildings built in different years, even centuries. A brand new, metal and glass tower block will contrast an old, pub well for instance. 

Reflections in buildings, in puddles or even water features, can add a twist to an architectural image. You should take your time to see what angles work best and if glare gets too much use a polarising filter.

 

 

4. Themes And Stories

Why not shoot to tell a story or pick a theme? You could choose to photograph the theme of food suppliers, for example, and this could be anything from greasy spoons to greengrocers and supermarkets. Or how about a project on shop windows, or numbers, or signs? If there's any construction going on, make a series out of the building work. If you know of a major renovation you could do a photo a day from start to completion.

Look for shots that show how your community live. Meeting places, parks or even washing lines full of washing outside someone's house can all make for good pictures - and have a social element.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

                                                                                                                           

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As the above image shows, with lenses designed for macro photography attached to a more advanced camera, you can capture great outdoor flower shots. However, just because you're a compact user doesn't mean you shouldn't shoot outdoor flower shots. In fact, with these few tips, you'll soon be on your way to capturing an excellent example of flower photography. 

  1. White Balance

Compact cameras come with various white balance presets that tell the camera what type of light source you are taking your photographs under. Some settings vary from camera-to-camera but there are four you'll see on all models which are: Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Tungsten and Fluorescent. When working outdoors, try the Daylight setting (usually a sun symbol) when working on bright days and the Cloudy setting for overcast days. 

  2. Use Macro Mode

If you want to make one flower your subject rather than focusing on a group, switch to macro mode. The Macro mode, which has a flower head icon, can be found either on the mode dial if your camera has one, or, in your camera's menu system. Some compacts focus within millimetres of your subject while others have a minimum focusing distance of a few centimetres. However, results can still be excellent. 

 

 

3. AF Mode

If you struggle to get the camera to focus on the point you want then switch your focus mode. Various modes are available and different modes suit different purposes. Spot can be useful when you have one specific flower to focus on as this mode is fixed more towards the centre of the screen. You can position your camera so the target marker is over your the subject you want to focus on then all you have to do is half-press the shutter button to focus then take your shot. 

 

4. Try Using Exposure Compensation

Dark backgrounds are great for shooting lighter coloured flowers against as it'll allow them to 'pop' from the frame. However, a large dark background which only has a small area of highlight in can fool your camera into thinking the scene is darker than it actually is and as a result, it can end up looking overexposed. Switching to spot metering can help with this but you may also need to have a play with exposure compensation to produce a more balanced exposure.

 

 

5. Think About Distance

By Zooming in closer to your subject, it'll fill the foreground of the frame and chances are the background will be thrown nicely out of focus so it's blurred. This is because the depth of field becomes shallower. Ensuring there's distance between your subject and background will also make it easier for your camera to throw the background out of focus. By doing so, the background won't be a distraction and all attention will fall on your flower rather than what's around or behind it. 

 

6. Learn To Use The Histogram

LCD screens can be used to preview images on but when it's sunny it can be hard to judge if the exposure is correct and this is where the histogram comes in useful.

Basically, you don't want the graph to be touching the left or right border and you want it to peak more in the middle and get lower towards either end. There are times when this won't apply but generally, it works. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Gear Suggestions 

• Standard zoom (35mm-80mm range is fine) – wide enough to get the whole boat in but long enough to focus in on the detail.
• Longer lens (80-200mm) - shoot small detail on boats further away. 
• Polarising filter – reduce reflections on the water and in paintwork and deepen blue sky.
• Tripod - extra support when working on uneven surfaces such as wet sand.

 

Pick A Sunny Day

If you want to capture the postcard shot of colourful boats lined up, reflecting in the water while a bright blue sky frames them from behind you'll have to head out on a sunny day when there's not much of a breeze in the air so the water's still. Make sure you use a polarising filter to saturate the colours and enhance the sky.

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The Tide Is Out

If you get to the harbour and find the tide is out don't think you need to head for fish and chips while the water trickles back in. Instead, photograph the boats which are now stuck in the mud and take advantage of the mooring ropes which are now fully visible, using them as lead-in lines for your photograph. A small aperture is needed to ensure everything from the front of the rope to the distant boat(s) or other objects are sharp.

 

 

Don't Clutter Your Scene

Harbours are bursting with photographic potential but don't make your scene too busy. If you can, single out one boat and place it near the foreground of your shot as this will give the photo more impact and will certainly be better than a shot of several boats that are fighting for your eye's attention.

Further Inland

Away from the coast, you'll still find plenty of boats on canals, rivers and in reservoirs waiting to be photographed. Canals create leading lines that will help with composition while the winding curves of a river will guide the viewer through the image to a boat making its way through the bends. If there's a bridge find a position where you can use it to frame a boat passing under it, just watch your exposure as the light under the bridge will be lower than the outside and it's easy to end up with a shot that's underexposed if the camera's meter reads from the brighter part of the scene. Switch to spot metering where possible, taking a meter reading from the sidewall of the bridge and use that as the starting point.

 

Activities On And Around The Boat

Barges found on canals are often very colourful and feature flower pots and other accessories that are worth a quick snap. Just remember to use a wide aperture to blur the background. Round the harbour, you can crop in on sails, boat hulls, lifebuoys and fishing nets.

 

  Action

For those who like things to be a little more fast-paced head for a water-sports centre where water-skiing, jet-skiing and other adrenalin-pumping activities take place. A camera which has fast autofocus will help you capture action shots where your subject is pin-sharp. A little blur in the background can enhance the sense of movement/speed in your shots, however. 
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Motion, movement and action are wide and varied photographic subjects and as a result, there are many ways a photographer can create a sense of action, motion or movement in their shots. ePHOTOzine has written many tutorials that cover motion/action in some shape or form and as a result, we've decided to group the most popular tutorials together so you can find all of the inspiration you need in one place. 

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Our 10 Top Action, Movement & Motion Photography Tutorials:

 

1. A - Z Of Light Trail Photography Tips

Night + city = the perfect opportunity to capture light trails. Plus, you get to practise your long exposure photography technique while shooting the colourful lines created by traffic weaving through the city streets. 

 

2. Tips To Help You Shoot Sharp Action Shots

When it comes to action and sports photography, one of the main problems you face is your subject moves quick and they don't tend to stay in the same place for very long. As a result, it can be a bit of a challenge to try and get a sharp photo where your subject is in focus, however, there are a few things you can do to capture your moving subject perfectly.

 

3. Tips On Shooting Water Sports Photography

 

Head to the coast on a sunny day or even to your local reservoir and you'll probably find someone skimming along the water, holding onto a sail fasted to a windsurf board or getting pulled along by a boat on a board. The pros make it look easy and their jumps, turns and sheer speed make water sports a great photographic subject.

 

4. How To Capture The Action At Running Events

 

Many sports take place some way from the spectators which makes taking decent pictures without long lenses a challenge. However, accessible sports photography comes in the form of road running events. Something which can be captured right up and down the country. Plus, good action shots can be captured with modest gear at local events because you just stand by the roadside - often there are no barriers or anything to get in the way.  

 

5. 7 Top Tips On Using Blur To Create A Sense Of Action In Your Photos

 

Contradictory to what you're told when you first pick up a camera, it is OK to have blur, and quite a lot of it, in your shots when you're photographing the right subject and want to emphasise speed or create a sense of motion. When we say it's OK we don't just mean a shot you accidentally took out of focus will pass off as something creative, you have to deliberately adjust your camera's settings or know how a quick twist of your lens will give you the blur that's needed to add a sense of action to your shot.

 

6. Photographing Fairground Rides At Night

 

If you want to shoot general wide shots of the fair then head out just as the lights are coming on when there's still a touch of colour in the sky. That way you'll be able to get the lights, stalls and other foreground interest of the fair set against a deep blue sky. Leave the flash at home though as it can kill the atmosphere you're trying to create. For more abstract images, wait until the sky's a little darker and turn the rides into streams of light patterns. Look for rides that spin quickly or are bursting with colour as these tend to produce the better results. 

 

7.  Top Long Exposure Subjects For You To Photograph

 

See how long exposures can turn what can be described as ordinary into something much more interesting. From atmospheric shots to northern lights and, of course, blurry water, plenty of topics are covered in this tutorial. 

 

8. Waterfall Photography Tips: 3 Ways To Photograph Waterfalls

 

When it comes to photographing waterfalls, you can either capture the power and intensity of every cascade or you can slow things down and make the movement the focus of your photo.

 

9. 10 Top Tips On Adding Blur To Water For A Creative Effect

 

Love it or loathe it, blurred water can look great in the right situation so it is always worth a try. For those who are new to the technique, here are 10 tips to get you started in turning even small cascades can look like raging torrents. 

 

10. 5 Top Ways You Can Add Creative Movement To Your Landscape Shots

 

The idea of movement isn't usually a thought that first springs to mind when you try to describe what a landscape shot is. However, when you start to think of popular landscape topics such as waterfalls, rivers, trees, clouds and the sea, you suddenly realise movement, which makes shots more dynamic, crops up more often than you think.

 

Bonus Top List: Best Action And 360 VR Cameras

To help you capture all of the action, an Action or 360 camera might be useful and as there are so many action cameras available, we've put a handy guide together which talks you through action cam features as well as what's currently available on the market. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Mike43 (Day 21 - Rivers & Waterfalls).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 15

Spring Landscapes

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Day 16

Small Mammals

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Day 17

Towns At Night

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  Day 18

Macro Photography

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Day 19

Low Light Photography

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Day 20

Moon

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Day 22

Seascapes

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Day 23

Faces

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

If you could only have two lights for the rest of your career, what would they be? Having used everything from the sun to niche '80s modifiers that predate dinosaurs, I can swear by two light modifiers: the Briese Focus.2 77 and 180. 

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The best concert photography happens in the pit and around the stage, with dedicated cameras and strict access. But when we go, most of us are just fans in the crowd. With a little intention, your phone can document the experience surprisingly well without turning the night into a photo shoot. 

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I've been covering protests for a long time, as a journalist and journalism professor, and one of the things I've noticed is that, at least in the Trump era of the last decade, more people are showing up with cameras to photograph these happenings than before. I've been trying to parse out why that is. 

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Finding a personal photographic style is one of the slipperiest goals in the medium. It's also one of the few things that separates a forgettable portfolio from work that actually feels like it belongs to someone. 

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Flat raw files are one of the most frustrating gaps between what you saw in the field and what ends up on your screen. You were there, the light was real, the scene had dimension, and yet the file looks lifeless. 

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In the Sun, captured by ePz member ruurd, is a breathtaking nature image that has well deservedly won our Photo of the Week (POTW) accolade.

We love the strong silhouettes of the butterfly and the dandelion clock, with the vibrant orange sun acting as a perfect backdrop that allows the fine details of the subjects to shine through. The shot and composition are superb, creating a balanced and bold look right in the middle of the image. The use of backlighting is excellent, and the way the warm amber light glows around the edges of the butterfly and the dandelion fluff is truly impressive. This is a superb photograph that uses light and shadow to create a peaceful, warm atmosphere. Brilliant.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

The Fujifilm X-T30 is eight years old, costs a fraction of what newer cameras do, and this photographer just chose it over every modern alternative. That's not nostalgia talking; there are real, specific reasons the X-Trans III sensor still holds up against cameras released this year. 

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Picking the right small refractor for astrophotography isn't just about specs on a chart. The telescope you choose will determine which objects you can shoot well, how fast you can gather light, and whether you'll be fighting chromatic aberration every time you push your processing. 

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When most people shop for a camera, the first number they look at is megapixels. It is the biggest number on the box, the easiest spec to compare, and the most intuitive to understand: more pixels equals more detail. But megapixels are not the reason your sunset photo has a white, blown-out sky. They are not the reason your indoor portrait has muddy, noisy shadows where the detail should be. And they are not the reason a professional photographer can rescue an underexposed shot in Lightroom while yours falls apart the moment you touch the shadow slider. 

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Two photographers. One has decades of experience and a full professional kit. The other is a tourist with an iPhone. On paper, no contest. But the tourist did the homework and found a better vantage point. The pro trusted experience and stayed put, confident that superior gear would carry the day in a space already crowded with photographers. In that moment, the advantage was not skill or gear. It was access. 

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The Nikkor Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S has been a flagship zoom for Nikon's mirrorless system since it launched roughly six years ago, and the original version earned a reputation as one of the sharpest lenses in its class. Now Nikon has released a Mark II version, and the question isn't whether it's good; it's whether the improvements justify the $3,196 price tag. 

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Shooting wildlife in low light means pushing your ISO to uncomfortable limits. Here's how to handle the images in post. 

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