Photography News

When Nikon announced the Z9 in late 2021, the camera was treated by most of the photography press as Nikon's "we are still here" moment. The brand had spent the early mirrorless years getting beaten in feature comparisons by Sony, criticized for slow autofocus updates, and described in obituary-adjacent language by gear reviewers who had decided Sony had won the format war. The Z9 was supposed to prove Nikon could still build a flagship. It did. Then something more interesting happened over the next four years. 

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The article emphasizes the importance of slowing down and reconnecting with the joy of photography by creating a series of images of simple things that we admire. Let's look at photos of a remote Namibian railway station that show the beauty of decay and history through intentional composition. 

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A while back I was very focused on having complex lighting for my editorial work. I would often create precise setups with many light sources. Yet, as time went on, my setups became simpler. So much so that my recent editorial for Numéro was done with only one light. Here is how. 

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Street photography lives and dies by your ability to go unnoticed. In a genre where the goal is to capture real moments, your presence is the single biggest variable you can control. 

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Gear has never been better. Autofocus is smarter, noise is lower, and sharpness is almost a given — yet scroll through Instagram or any photo forum and everything starts to look the same. 

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Adobe just pushed a significant round of updates to Photoshop, and several of them are directly relevant to cleaning up photos and managing complex edits. If you use Photoshop as part of your workflow, at least three or four of these features will change how you approach specific tasks. 

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The Horizon 202 is a Soviet-era swing lens panoramic camera that produces a field of view roughly equivalent to 14mm on a 35mm camera, with almost none of the distortion you'd expect from an ultra wide angle lens at that focal length. If you've ever wanted to capture an entire mountain range in a single frame on film, this is the kind of camera that makes that possible. 

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The right light is an interesting concept. I am a firm believer that there is no such thing as bad weather – only different types of lighting. I get annoyed at the number of articles that say you can only take creative landscape photographs in the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset. To me, that leaves a whole chunk of the day with a camera sitting unused in a bag!

 

It's Wet Out!

Certainly, though, certain subjects work better in particular lighting conditions and when the rain is hammering on my office window I'm fairly happy to be sitting in front of the computer rather than trying to capture landscape photographs! That said, I have been at the side of Buttermere in torrential rain and high winds and still managed to work with the conditions.

Mist and fog also create ideal light for pastel, almost painterly pictures, easily isolating foreground elements from the background; and while these conditions are certainly more prevalent early morning, they can happen at other times. Heavy snowfalls can also create monotoned, isolated elements, even resulting in pen-and-ink style pictures that are perfect for black and white.

 

 

The Sun's Out

When the sun does shine through, make the most of the textures, shadows and lighting angles; and even that doesn't always mean early or late in the day, I have a number of Lake District locations where the sun offers excellent graze lighting, really bringing out the textures of barn walls or dry-stone walls even in the middle of the day.

The best way to know where the sun works best in any location is to know the location well, and photograph it regularly; ideally even knowing which month offers the best elevation as well as the angle of the sun. If you're new to a location check on a map – remembering that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. Even Google maps can provide some help if there is a road anywhere near your chosen location. Computer-based maps can give a good idea of the terrain and are sometimes easier to realise the contours than a traditional map.

Certainly early and late in the day offers low lighting angles which can naturally create longer shadows, but to truly reap the benefits, you need to either have side-lighting or even be shooting into the sun.

By all means, plan some of your shots before you go out, but always be ready to adapt to the conditions - don't come back without any photos because the light wasn't exactly what you had planned, but adapt to the lighting that's there. Only by doing that will you train your eyes to see opportunities that otherwise would be so easy to miss.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to Arkwright (Day 30- 'Frames').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 24

Watersports

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Day 25

'Mood' Theme

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Day 26

Interesting Horizons Theme

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Day 27

Public Gardens

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  Day 28

'Home' Theme

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Day 29

Bluebells

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

When it comes to picking a bag to carry your camera and other bits of kit around in, it can take a while to come to a final decision as there's plenty of top brands and styles to choose from. Some photographers will have a go-to bag for all occasions while others will choose to have a few different designs that have different uses.

To help you decide what camera bag is perfect for you, we've put together a few tips on what to look out for and we'll also be asking questions you'll probably be thinking about next time you're shopping for a camera bag.
 

1. What Type Of Photography Do You Enjoy?

By thinking about the above question, you should be able to narrow down your choices. For example, a landscape photographer will find a backpack style more appropriate than a shoulder bag but someone who travels on planes a lot may want a roller case they can use as hand luggage but will pack a smaller bag inside it which they can use when they arrive at their destination. 

  2. What Will You Be Carrying?

For the majority of shooters, it's important to keep the weight of your bag to a minimum, even more so if you're heading off on a long walk in a National Park. A Body and two or three good all-around lenses should be fine for most but if you do need to carry more, make sure there's plenty of dividers in your bag to keep your gear snug and safe. Look for pockets that are easy to access so you can quickly grab memory cards, spare batteries etc. and a tablet/laptop pocket is a feature more and more of us are needing in our camera bags, too. 

 

 

 

3. How Quickly Will You Need To Access Gear? 

A good camera bag will allow you to access your camera gear quickly and easily. If you're shooting in busy locations where you don't want to have your camera out around your neck constantly, such as in popular tourist locations or in towns and cities, a sling design may be better than a rucksack as they're easier to swing around to your front so you can access equipment without removing your bag. Shoulder bags can also be accessed easily while on the move but do take care not to overload this style of bag if carrying it on one shoulder.

 

 

 

4. What Features Should You Look Out For?

 

1. Comfort

No matter what your planned shoot for the day is, be it a long photo walk or a short trip to the local park, your camera bag needs to be comfortable as you don't want to injure yourself and if something's annoying you, it can distract you from your photography as well as irritate you. If possible, try your bag out before you buy it to test where straps sit etc. 

 

2. Material 

You want your bag to last so look for models made from hard-wearing fabrics and pay attention to how the bag is sealed. Waterproof covers can be very useful and many bags now come with them built-in. It's also important to pay attention to small details such as zippers as plastic ones can be less durable than those made from metal.

 

 

3. Internal Dividers 

Having a bag that allows you to customise the interior will give you more flexibility when it comes to the gear you carry and how you carry it. Some bags feature inserts that can be removed when not needed, giving the user a bag that reverts to everyday use which is useful when travelling on planes when weight is limited so taking two bags may not be an option. 

 

4. Protection

Your bag doesn't want too much padding so it's bulky but you do want to make sure there's enough to provide protection for your gear in the right places. Make sure you pay attention to the bottom of the bag to see if feet or a protective layer are provided. 

For more information on camera bags, take a look at ePHOTOzine's guide to camera bag types. 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to James124 (Day 16- Bridges).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 9

Stone Circles

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Day 10

Woodland

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Day 11

Creative Flare

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Day 12

Full-Length Portraits

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  Day 13

Stained Glass Windows

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Day 14

Garden Landscapes

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Day 15

Flowers

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

    Next time you're at a popular tourist spot, don't get annoyed by people in your landscape shot as when captured the right way, they can actually add interest, create a story and, more importantly, add a sense of scale to an image that will make the person viewing it go 'o, wow!'    1. Landscape With People Vs A Portrait Outdoors Bring a person or a group of people into your landscape shots and they suddenly get a different feel/look about them. But you have to be careful that it doesn't turn into an outdoor portrait where the person is the main focus of the image rather than part of the overall scene.   As you're not shooting an outdoor portrait you don't want to pose your subjects or better still, let them know you're taking their photograph at all. Make sure they're not bothered by you or your camera and are focused on whatever they're doing before you take your shot. For more tips on shooting candidly take a look at our article: Candid photography.

 

 

2. Create A Connection 

An empty shot of a forest or a mountainous landscape may be inspiring and pleasant to look at but if you add people to the shot the viewer can become more connected with the image as the person/people can help create more of a story. A sunset shot with a couple sat to one side of it will feel romantic while a rock climber scaling a cliff wall that's sat in your wide, landscape shot will create a totally different feeling.

 

 

3. Add Scale 

People can also help create a sense of scale within an image, for example, a backdrop of mountains suddenly turn into dominating structures that tower above two walkers or a lake stretches out for miles past a single man out fishing for the day.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Insurance is the part of running a photography business that nobody warns you about, nobody teaches you, and nobody finds interesting until the day they need it. Then it becomes the most important conversation of your career, usually too late. Most photographers buy a policy because a venue asked for one, sign whatever the broker recommends, and never think about it again until something breaks, gets stolen, or generates a lawsuit. 

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There, I said it. Not bad. Not incompetent. Not untalented. Boring. And boring is far worse. 

Bad photography can at least be entertaining. It can crash through the wall drunk at two in the morning, bleeding from the forehead, demanding another round. Boring photography arrives exactly on time, wipes its shoes at the door, and asks where you keep the coasters.

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For the past six months, I've had the opportunity to thoroughly test the Hasselblad XCD 35–100 E — Hasselblad's brand-new all-around zoom lens. With this lens, I've photographed commercial campaigns for Hasselblad, documented a family wedding high up in the Alps, and captured my photo workshop in southern Spain — all without changing the lens even once. And honestly: the 35–100 E has impressed me in every single situation. 

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Most photographers hit a ceiling not because they lack technical skill, but because they keep doing the same things over and over. Breaking out of that pattern is what separates a one-trick shooter from someone who can walk into any situation and come away with something worth showing. 

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The Nikkor Z 14-30mm f/4 S has been on the market since 2019, and it remains the wide angle zoom that ends up on more Nikon Z mount cameras than probably any other. At its current discounted price of around $1,100, the calculus of buying it versus something like the Nikkor Z 14-24mm f/2.8 S at roughly $2,000 gets very interesting very fast. 

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Leica is the only professional camera company to offer three 35mm film cameras. These cameras, M-A, M6, and MP, are popular among the fan base despite the dominance of digital photography in the past two decades. If you have a few dollars to spare, you have a rare opportunity to own an original MP camera once owned by the photographer known as the first paparazzo. 

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Choosing between a 35mm and 40mm prime lens sounds like splitting hairs, but if you shoot in tight spaces, near cliffs, or anywhere you can't step back, that small difference in field of view can determine whether you get the shot or go home empty-handed. James Popsys has spent years shooting 40mm primes across multiple systems and recently started questioning whether 35mm deserves a longer look. 

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Megapixel counts dominate camera marketing, and most buying decisions reflect that. But the actual difference between a 24-megapixel sensor and a 50-megapixel one is almost certainly smaller than you've been led to believe. 

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