Photography News

Artificial intelligence has quickly become part of the workflow for many photographers. From culling thousands of images to automating complex edits, there's now a tool for almost every part of the process. But not all AI is built for the same job. 

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Chargers are the gear no one thinks about — at least until there is a need. Anker sent their Anker Prime Charging Station (8-in-1, 240W), a smart charger with app control. Who might benefit from this? And why might they need app control? 

What It Is 

The Anker Prime Charging Station (8-in-1, 240W) is a desktop hub that packs serious charging capability into a surprisingly small footprint. You can configure the AC outlets, monitor, and schedule with the app. Here are the key specs:

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Sony has officially announced the new FE 100-400mm f/4.5 GM OSS, a super-telephoto zoom designed for wildlife, birding, sports, and photojournalism work. 

I recently had the good fortune of spending some time with the new lens on the sidelines of an MLS match, shooting the Seattle Sounders — and in my opinion, this is exactly the kind of constant-aperture, long-reach G Master zoom that Sony's professional sports and wildlife shooters have been waiting for. Let's take a look at what makes this lens such a compelling addition to the acclaimed lineup of Sony G Master lenses.

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Sony just released a camera that outperforms their own flagship model and costs $2,000 less. That's not a headline you expect to write, but here we are. 

The a7R VI comes in at under $4,499.99. The a1 II sits at $6,500 and is supposed to be the best Sony has to offer. After spending a week with the a7R VI, using it for family documentary work and studio sessions, and comparing it spec-for-spec against the a1 II, the conclusion is hard to argue with: the a7R VI beats the a1 II in almost every meaningful way.

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Outdoor photographer Rainer Eder has teamed up with Swiss mountain sports brand Mammut to produce Pushing Boundaries, a visually arresting photo series that reimagines what athletic determination looks like when it's taken out of its natural habitat. Instead of pristine alpine settings, elite athletes are placed into unexpected, often industrial environments — spaces that test their physical ability, adaptability, and mindset.

 

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The Sigma 135mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art is one of the most optically ambitious lenses ever made for portrait work, and it exists almost entirely because Sigma wanted to prove it could be done.  

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The Lumix L10 is a fixed-lens compact camera with a leaf shutter, a viewfinder, a hot shoe, and a Leica-branded 24–75mm f/1.7–2.8 lens on a Four Thirds sensor. If you're weighing compact cameras for travel or daily carry, the spec sheet here is worth a close look. 

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The Leica M11-D is a digital camera with no rear screen, and that single omission is either its greatest flaw or its greatest feature depending on how honest you are with yourself about how you actually shoot. If you've ever told yourself you'd stop chimping and never followed through, this camera calls that bluff immediately. 

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Panasonic has announced the LUMIX L10, a new fixed-lens compact camera built around a Four Thirds sensor and a Leica-branded zoom. The release marks the 25th anniversary of the LUMIX line, and Panasonic is launching the camera in three finishes: Black, Silver, and a limited Titanium Gold Special Edition. 

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Photographing birds of prey in the wild isn't something that's easy to do, however as the UK is home to some excellent birds of prey centres where photographers have the opportunity to shoot up close with these majestic birds when armed with the right kit and technique. 

At centres, the birds are trained to fly close to visitors which gives photographers, with a bit of patience, the chance to capture images of birds of prey in flight as well as photos of other natural behaviour they demonstrate.
 

1. What Gear Will I Need? 

Thanks to the close range, photographers can generally capture shots of larger birds of prey with shorter lenses, however, for shots of birds in flight, you'll need a lens that has a longer reach.

For portraits, use a tripod but when in flight you may find this kind of support doesn't give you the fluidity of movement you need. Plus, these centres are popular locations and you can find yourself in a crowd where tripods won't be a welcomed feature. If you do have room for a tripod, put a ball head on it as this will allow you to adjust the position of the camera quicker and easier. A pistol grip could also be useful as they are ideal for pursuing and capturing fast-moving subjects.

Some places have hides which offer enough space for tripods so you won't be fighting for elbow room. 

 

2. Make Sure You Follow The Centre's Rules

Centres have different rules when it comes to displays. Some allow you to move around while others don't so do check before you start taking your images. It's important to pick a good shooting spot before the display begins so do have a scout around the location well before the scheduled start time.

 

 

3. Capturing Shots Of Birds In Flight

Photographers with fast prime lenses are at an advantage with this but this doesn't mean you shouldn't try if you have a different piece of kit. It can be a little hit and miss and will take some perseverance to get right but there are a few things you can do to increase your chances of capturing a good shot.

Birds tend to take off and land into the wind so if you can position yourself so the wind is blowing from behind you, chances are you'll be able to capture a head-on shot of your subject in flight.

It's also worth manually focusing on a spot you know the birds will fly through/into as with some practice, this should improve your chances of capturing a good shot.

A bird flying across you is easier to track the path of than one flying towards you as you can pan with its movement and its path won't change as quickly. Continuous shooting will increase the chances of you capturing a shot with the bird in-frame, but depending on your camera autofocusing may struggle. 

Aiming to capture a shot just before a bird lands tends to be a little easier, as Linda Wright explained in a previous article: "Birds stall just before they land – slowing almost to a stop and spreading their wings wide – so this is a good moment to aim for and easy to predict."

Do remember that each subject flies at a different speed and often has different characteristics of flight. Understanding this will help you improve and modify your technique accordingly.

For more tips on capturing shots of birds in flight, take a look at this article: Photographing Birds In Flight

 

4. Master Your Shutter Speeds

When it comes to shutter speeds, faster is good, although slower speeds can result in some interesting blurring of wings if you want to take a more artistic approach.

Check your exposure, taking a reading from roughly where you'll be aiming before the action begins can help, and go for a higher ISO rather than risking a wider aperture if you find light levels to be too low. 

 

 

5. Check The Position Of The Sun

Note where the sun is for when you're shooting with your lens towards the sky as you don't want to pan and find it's shining down your lens. It's dangerous to look directly at the sun and can be very painful so do take care. 

 

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This is something everyone can have a go it. It doesn't matter if you live in a mansion or a flat or usually shoot landscapes or portraits as this will give you the chance to think out of the box a little and really help you improve your photography.

Of course, if you live on the coast or in the Highlands or Lakes, you have got it slightly easier than some. But there are pictures to be captured everywhere, you just have to get out there and find them!

If you really don't fancy shooting near your home pick a location you love or know well and see how only having a few meters to work in will make you think differently.

  Gear Suggestions

 

If you're not travelling far you can set out your full array of lenses on your side and return to pick up what you need although your standard zoom will do a perfectly good job.

If you do have a variety of lenses to pick from your macro lens will be good for giving the ordinary a unique twist while a longer telephoto will get you close to birds in the garden without having to be sat on the branch next to them. If you're out in the garden you may need a tripod when using a longer lens but otherwise working hand-held will be fine.

 

What To Shoot?

 

Look at everyday objects differently. See how a fork, TV remote or even a shoelace look close up through a macro lens. Or try setting yourself a little challenge: shoot household objects, certain packets or how about items beginning with a particular letter or number? Try shooting candids of neighbours or how about limiting the number of pictures you take?

You can go on a mini safari in your garden, photograph birds from your window or shoot the flowers that are now decorating our beds. Have a go at photographing micro landscapes on dull days or how about capturing raindrops as they fall down your windows or land on plants? If you don't mind early starts, you can shoot some photos of morning dew or spend some time with your pets, photographing their antics.

 

As the months warm-up you'll be able to spot Ladybirds to photograph but while the weather's still chilly, why not stay indoors and shoot some still life work: kitchen utensils, cutlery and food.
 

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Most working photographers have a portfolio problem. The problem is not that the work is bad. The work is usually fine. The problem is that there is too much of it. Portfolios that should have 12 to 18 images contain 40 or 50 or 80. Websites that should load three galleries fast contain eight galleries that load slowly. Instagram grids intended to function as portfolios contain two years of inconsistent work that blurs the photographer's identity rather than sharpening it.

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Hunter S. Thompson is certainly one of my references — not because he ever cared about photography, but because he understood something most photographers avoid. 

Thompson wasn't just a journalist. He was the fracture inside the story, the man who erased the polite distance between observer and event and replaced it with something far more unstable. Gonzo wasn't a style. It was a position. A refusal to stand outside. He didn't look at the world — he entered it and let it deform him.

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Most photographers put the camera away when it rains, but I believe this is a huge mistake. I've found that some of my best photos are made when it's raining, and I make the effort to embrace it. Let's talk about why. 

The images in this article were shot recently on a trip to Bilbao, Spain. Everything was photographed on a Nikon Z6 III, which is weather-sealed and offered plenty of confidence.

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Discover the art of minimalism in landscape photography and learn how the deliberate removal of distractions can elevate your images. Join me as I share insights from my recent trip to Namibia, highlighting the beauty and purpose behind each frame. 

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Buying a new camera feels like the obvious move when you want to level up your skills. But the gear you already own, or something even cheaper, might be doing more for your growth than anything new ever could. 

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Most photographers spend years chasing a style without knowing what they're actually looking for. Sean Dalton has spent the last decade building his, and he recently looked back at 10 years of work to map out exactly how it happened and how you can shortcut the process. 

 

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The Fujifilm XC 13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 OIS is the one of the newest kit lens options for the Fujifilm's X-mount system, and it takes a different approach than most. Instead of the typical 15-45mm range, this lens goes wider, giving you a full frame equivalent of 20mm to 50mm, which opens up genuinely different shooting possibilities for landscapes, interiors, selfies, and vlogging. 

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Shooting in brutal coastal wind is one of the fastest ways to learn what your gear and your plans are actually worth. When conditions fall apart mid-shoot, what you do next says more about your photography than any perfect golden-hour session ever could. 

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    We've spoken before on how lines are great tools for guiding the eye through an image but don't think these have to always be horizontal or vertical as quite often, diagonal lines can add more interest and depth, guiding the eye across the image.
  1. Where Should I Look For Them? 

Rivers, walls and cracks in the ice are just three examples of how you can create diagonals within your landscape shots. Just remember you may have to alter the angle, height or position you're working at to see these natural elements take on the shape you need.

 

2. Use Diagonal Lines As A Guide

The eye often looks at the bottom left of an image first before working across the shot to the top right corner so by having a line which follows this path, intercepting interesting elements as it goes will unknowingly guide the viewer through your shot. They're particularly useful in shots where you have lots and lots of different elements that without a 'guide' would just look chaotic and the eye wouldn't know what to look at first. Try using multiple diagonals to guide the eye to one spot in the image by intersecting them where you want the attention to fall.

 

 

3. Don't Split Your Shot Into Two

If you position your diagonal so it flows from one corner to another your shot can look like it's split in two and won't work right compositionally. Instead, try shifting the line up slightly so it starts just above the bottom corner instead.

 

4. How Many Are Too Many?

Don't get too carried away using too many diagonals as your shot will just end up looking busy and the eye won't know where to focus. However, a few repetitive lines such as those left by a tractor in a field or the shapes left in the sand by the wind can work well as abstract landscape shots. Just shoot from a higher viewpoint and use a longer focal length with a smaller aperture to maximise depth of field. At the coast, try photographing footprints left in wet sand or the patterns left by the tide as it moves down the beach.

 

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