Photography News

    1. What Time Of Day Is Best? 

Early morning or late evening light will highlight textures and warmth to the scene but don't overlook bright days either as strong shadows will make statues and other detail stand out from the walls.

If you wait for the sun to go down have a play around with long exposures and capture the light trails created by traffic as it passes you by. Most DSLRs will happily create shutter speeds of 30 seconds but if you want something a little longer you'll need to switch to the B (bulb) setting. 

If you do use Bulb mode, keep an eye on your battery life as you don't want it to drain before you've captured your shot. Do remember you'll need your tripod and a remote release is handy if you have one.

 

 

2. Should I Use A Wide-Angle Lens? 

If you're shooting on the bridge a wide-angle lens is great for getting interesting foreground detail in the shot. Just remember to use a small aperture so everything in the scene is in focus. A wide is also handy for when you what to shoot the bridge in its surroundings and don't have the space to move back with a telephoto lens. If you can get down to the base of the bridge a wide-angle lens will exaggerate the size of the part closest to you while the distant point of it will look like it's shrinking towards the vanishing point.

If you find you have too much sky and land dominating the landscape shots of your bridges crop in and create a panorama.

 

 

3. When Will A Telephoto Lens Be Useful? 

When you want to isolate detail pick up your telephoto lens. It's also useful for when you have strong lines to work with such as bridge supports.

 

4. What Else Can I Photograph On A Bridge? 

Bridges, particularly old ones, have interesting detail that's worth a shot or two. Signs, supports, nuts, bolts and even rust can make good images.

 

 

5. How Can I Use Bridges Creatively In My Shots? 

You can use the bridges that stretch over roads, canals and rivers to frame whatever landscape sits behind it. Just watch your exposure if you do this as it'll be darker under the bridge than it is on either side so bracket if you need to.

 

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Most photographers treat the deposit as a courtesy request. A nice-to-have. Something you ask for politely, and if the client pushes back or seems uncomfortable, you waive it because you do not want to lose the booking. This is the standard operating posture of the photography industry, and it is costing working photographers thousands of dollars a year that they never see on their books, because the losses are invisible until you run the math. 

 

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The Fstoppers community is brimming with creative vision and talent. Every day, we comb through your work, looking for images to feature as the Photo of the Day or simply to admire your creativity and technical prowess. In 2026, we're featuring a new photographer every month, whose portfolio represents both stellar photographic achievement and a high level of involvement within the Fstoppers community. 

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I learned early that a lot of "broken" film cameras aren't broken—they're just stuck. The symptoms were always the same: you'd cock the shutter, press the release, and nothing would happen… or it would fire once and then lock up like it was offended you asked it to work in 2026. Sometimes it wasn't a dramatic failure, just that dead, sluggish feeling of old grease turning into glue. 

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The Tamron 35-100mm f/2.8 sits in an interesting spot: it's compact and light enough to travel with, but fast enough to handle portraits, events, and low-light shooting. At around $899, it's priced to compete with other mid-range zooms, and whether it delivers enough to justify that price is genuinely worth understanding before you buy. 

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Editing on the wrong monitor, shooting at the wrong ISO, working in 8-bit — any one of these mistakes can quietly wreck an otherwise solid photo. Some of them can't be fixed in post. 

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Choosing a 35mm f/1.4 lens for Sony E-mount means navigating a short but competitive list, and the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG DN Art just reshuffled that list significantly. The Mark II version makes a strong case against both its predecessor and Sony's own G Master offering. 

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Shooting all of Bolivia on a single camera battery is either a brilliant creative constraint or a fast track to missing the best light of the trip. Brendan Van Son set out to find which one it was. 

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1. Why Use A Frame? 

Frames are a great tool for drawing attention to an image. Be it a frame we hang on the wall, one we create on the computer, in-camera or with the elements in the scene we are photographing, frames are a very effective tool that all photographers can use.

 

2. Adding A Frame In-Camera 

Frames created while taking your shots will help lead the eye through the shot, add depth to images and help give a photo context. There's also the added bonus of using frames to hide objects you don't want to appear in the shot and they can make your images generally more interesting. They can also be used to give the viewer more information on the location you've taken the shot in. 

 

 

3. What Can Be Used As Frames? 

Windows and archways are obvious choices for frames but tree branches and leaves can also work well. Frames don't have to cover four sides either - one or two branches curving around part of the image can work just as well. It's also worth considering if you want the frame to be in focus or not. If you're at a party, why not use people as your frame to draw attention to a particular person or group? You can also use frames which are positioned towards the back of the shot to frame foreground interest, too. 
 

4. Frames Don't Always Work

There are times when creating a frame within your image won't add anything to the shot so do think about your composition and if you really do need a frame before hitting the shutter button. You don't want the frame to pull attention away from your main subject either so do make sure it's not too distracting. 

 

 

5. Creating A More Traditional Frame

More traditional style frames can be added during Post Production and ePHOTOzine has various tutorials on adding a variety of frame styles to shots in the technique section of the site.

There's also a third option and that's to add a frame to your image in-camera from one of the various creative filter options cameras offer. Apply built-in frames, use vignettes or why not combine multiple shots in one frame? 

 

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Since the debut of the first Osmo Pocket series, launched seven years ago, it has quickly grown its user base with its one-of-a-kind design, tapping into a niche market segment by offering quality stabilized video at a pocketable size. While it wasn't perfect back then, it offered an innovative solution for the market's pain point, and it's commendable that they took the risk to do things out of the norm. Fast forward to 2026, the DJI Osmo Pocket 4 is currently at its 4th iteration of product development, keeping the same design language.

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There is an entire industry selling photographers the idea that their booking problems are marketing problems. Instagram strategies, SEO courses, funnel templates, lead magnets, content calendars, brand refreshes, niche-defining workshops, and $2,000 mentorships that promise to "unlock the pipeline." Photographers buy them, implement them, and wait for the calendar to fill. For most photographers, it does not. 

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© Alison Tuck / Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards

 

Nikon is pleased to announce the winner of the STERNA People’s Choice Award in the Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards, with the accolade awarded to Alison Tuck’s highly comical 2025 image titled ‘Now where is my nest?’

The People’s Choice Award is a separate category where the Nikon judging panel takes a back seat and the public gets to decide. The hilarious photo of a windswept gannet in Yorkshire on the Bempton Cliffs was the most popular among public voters, beating forty other jovial images shortlisted in the 2025 Awards.

Alison Tuck says: “Winning the STERNA People’s Choice Award means a lot to me. It was really exciting to get into the finals with my gannet, and I was honoured to get a Highly Commended. However, being awarded this category is something else and I am really grateful to all the people who voted for me - not forgetting to mention how much fun I had - it is the Nikon Wildlife Comedy Awards after all!”

A devout Nikon camera user, Alison loves taking wildlife pictures on her Nikon Z8, which “makes capturing wildlife in motion so easy.” The award also comes with a series of prizes, including a ThinkTANK photography bag, as well as a special print of the image on Hahnemühle matte white paper, courtesy of category sponsor STERNA.

STERNA’s mission it is to highlight the uniqueness of wildlife and nature through creative editing and producing Fine Art Prints.

Alison Tuck continues: “I love taking lots of photos especially of wildlife, from a tiny ant to a large elephant on land, a small crab to an orca whale in the sea or a tiny sun bird to a soaring raptor in the air, they all have their own history to tell within the world and for me capturing their stories is something very special.”

Stefan Maier, Nikon Europe, Senior General Manager Marketing says: “We’re delighted to see Alison Tuck’s image recognised as the People’s Choice Award. It captures a moment of pure, universal humour, reminding us how powerful photography can be. Nikon is proud to be part of the Comedy Wildlife Awards, demonstrating how storytelling through images can entertain, inspire, and bring people closer to nature and remind us of our shared humanity.”

Nikon congratulates Alison and all of the finalists for their excellent nature and wildlife photography. The 2026 Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards is currently open for image and video entries until 30th June. The competition is free to enter for everyone globally through the Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards website. There are numerous categories to enter and a host of spectacular prizes to win including Nikon cameras and lenses for the Nikon-sponsored categories, plus a week’s safari in the Masai Mara with Alex Walker’s Serian for the Overall Winner.

For more information, please visit the Nikon Comedy Wildlife Awards website.

As many flower varieties are currently in bloom, now's a perfect time to explore the art of flower photography. In this article, we take a closer look at why shade's important to a flower photographer and how, with a simple bit of card, a photographer can improve his or her flower shots without too much fuss or extra cost. If you're looking for tips on what kit is good for flower photography, advice on angles to shoot from etc., have a look at ePHOTOzine's technique section where you'll find a section dedicated to 'Flowers and Plants'. 

  Direct sun   Taken in shade

 

Create Your Own Shade

When it comes to flower photography, it's best to avoid the middle of the day when taking shots of flowers but what do you do if you're in a place you can't return to easily, you see an amazing flower and you look up at the sky and see the sun's too high? Do you shake your head in disappointment and leave the flower behind? No. You get your camera out and create your own shade.

The easiest way to do this is move your body until your shadow's over the flower. But only do this if you're taking a close-up. You don't want a shot of a colourful flowerbed with your shadowy outline sticking right out at you. 

If you're a little more organised and have room in your bag or car to carry some helpful photography props there are a few you can take. Reflectors and diffusers are the obvious choices, but a cheaper option would be a piece of card, cloth or towel. Just remember you need something or someone to hold these up or you could do this yourself and put the camera on a self-timer. Make sure your shade-creator is a neutral colour too otherwise your image will have a slight colour cast.   Left: No shade. Right: With shade.     Create Your Own Backgrounds

If you like shooting blooms on location, you need to consider the background very carefully. Out of focus highlights and objects like fence posts, wheelie bins and people can easily ruin your pictures even with judicious depth-of-field control. Getting around the problem is potentially very simple. Not only that, but you can be creative too.

You can use something purpose-made like a reflector or a store-bought background or create your own from a print or a sheet of card.

Sheets of coloured card work fine but stay away from glossy finishes because there could be reflection problems. Matt, single-coloured card works fine, but you can also be more imaginative and paint or print your own using your photo printer.

To help with keeping the background blurred, produce a blurred background in the first place so you do not have to worry about aperture choice so much when you come to shooting.

Your 'background' does not have to be big either. If you are shooting macro studies, a sheet of A4-size card will do nicely.

 

 

Please do note that this approach will not be welcomed everywhere so please do not roll up to an award-winning garden and start setting up your background system. It's also worth remembering that not all botanic gardens allow the use of tripods or at least have restrictions on use so you need to check this before you head off in search of a potential subject. If you plan on sticking to public gardens, heathlands or even your own garden, you won't have to worry. 

How you work with your background is up to you. With macro work, it is possible to handhold your camera and the card background behind the subject but it is not comfortable, nor is it great technique. You'll also need faster shutter speeds and focusing can be a challenge. As a result, it's much easier to use a tripod so you can hold the background a little way behind the subject much more easily. If you have a spare tripod or a lighting stand, use that to hold the background in place.

When composing your images just make sure the background fills your viewfinder frame – or at least enough of your subject to allow cropping.
 

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Photographers print their work less often nowadays. It's not because they don't care; it is due to one fundamental issue: whom do you trust? 

I love printing my work. It's the last step in the creative process, but this step can also become the most overwhelming. Why? It's because some internet sites promote themselves as the best printers for your work. Unfortunately, that is not always the case. Three printing companies struggle for every successful one. So who do you trust? Lumaprints.

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Erin Babnik is known internationally as a part of the nature photography team Photo Cascadia. Her work grew from experiences as an art historian and archaeologist, photographing in museums and at archaeological sites throughout Europe and the Middle East. Here she discusses her must-have gear, the value of museums, and when fixing it in post isn't cheating. 

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Turning your passion into a career is one of the most debated decisions in creative work, and the answer is rarely as clean as either side makes it sound. Scott Choucino from Tin House Studio has been living this question for years, and his take is more nuanced than the usual "follow your dreams" pitch. 

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Photoshop has dozens of tools, but a handful of them do most of the heavy lifting in real editing work. Knowing how the brush, remove, and selection tools actually behave is the difference between fighting Photoshop and actually using it. 

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Knowing when to convert a photo to black and white is one of those decisions that separates a thoughtful edit from a forgettable one. Get it wrong and you strip out color that was doing real work; get it right and you reveal something the color was actually hiding. 

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Adding smoke to a shoot can completely change the feel of an image. It builds depth, amplifies drama, and when you're working with colored backlights, it's often the only way to make that color visible in the atmosphere rather than just on your subject's skin. 

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At springtime our thoughts naturally lean towards flower photography, and none more so than bluebells, either as individual subjects or in carpets of blue. Often, but not exclusively found in woodlands, bluebells offer a magnetic attraction to photographers and as almost anything can be used to photograph them, from wide-angles to long telephotos, compact cameras to full-frame DSLRs, it's something photographers of all levels can have a go at. 

 

1. What Type Of Shots Should I Take? 

 

How you treat them photographically depends on how densely-packed they are growing. In a woodland where they provide a carpet of blue flower heads, wide-angles can exemplify the extent of the blooms, and shooting with a small aperture will give a huge depth of field, rendering all the flowers in focus. A macro lens can hone in on details and individual flowers, wait for an insect to land on a bloom to give added interest.

  2. How Can I Focus On Individual Flowers?

 

Telephoto lenses used at wide apertures can also give a narrow band of sharp bluebells amongst a sea of blur, with telephoto compression adding to the effect. This works best from low viewpoints, often only a few inches above the ground. Or your long lens can be well used to isolate individual flowers from their surrounds; often in a mass of bluebells, there will be some rogue colours – the most common being pink and white – focusing on these with a long telephoto at wide aperture will highlight the different colours, making them stand out among a sea of blue.

 

3. How Can I Get Creative? 

 

For a different effect, try experimenting with camera movement, by setting a small aperture to enable a long exposure and panning the camera vertically through the exposure. Try smearing petroleum jelly on an old filter (NOT on the lens itself!) and swirl it round to give an abstract effect. You can also leave a clear patch in the middle to give an area of clarity in the picture, amidst a swirl of colour.

So...no excuses...no special equipment needs, just get out there, find some bluebells and interpret them in countless different ways.
 

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