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With Autumn rapidly approaching, they'll soon be ample opportunity to unpack your macro lens so you can capture images of fungi and close-up patterns of leaves as the golden shades take hold. Outdoor macro photography, particularly during the Autumn months, can be very rewarding but as you'll most likely be doing some walking, you may be wondering if fastening a tripod to your camera bag is really necessary as, after all, they can be heavy and a bit awkward to carry. Well, the quick answer to this question is 'yes' but here are 6 reasons that'll further explain why you'll be annoyed at yourself if you don't pack your tripod when heading out of the door. 

 

1. Stability

The most obvious reason for using a tripod is for added stability. Camera shake is more noticeable when working close to your subject so the use of a tripod's recommended. To minimise movement further, use your camera's self-timer or use a remote / cable release so you're not actually touching the camera when the exposure begins.

 

2. Low Angles And Awkward Spots

Not all macro subjects are in places which are easy to reach so use a tripod with a centre column that can be moved to a horizontal position or even turned the opposite way around as they make it easier to get into tight spots. It also helps if your tripod can get low to the ground. You can use various tripod heads but a ball head can be more flexible than other models as their range of movement means more camera positions can be achieved. They can take some getting used to so do have a play around with one at home before heading out into the field.

 

3. Longer Shutter Speeds

A tripod, bean bag or whatever support you're using will become even more important when you start using longer shutter speeds as if you try hand-holding the shots, you'll probably find shake causes blur to appear. You'll find longer exposure times are needed in woods where fungi thrive but not much light gets through the tree canopy. 

 

 

4. Composing Your Shots

Having a tripod with you when out shooting means you can get your framing right then make adjustments to white balance, aperture, shutter speed etc. without the camera's position changing. It also means your hands are free to adjust/remove distracting objects from the frame without the camera having to be put down. This could be moving a branch out of the way, removing stray twigs etc. 

 

5. Pre-Focus

This points more for the warmer months when butterflies and other flying insects are more likely to be around as speed is of the essence when working with small, fast subjects like these. To increase your chances of capturing a subject that moves quickly and doesn't hang around for long, try pre-focusing on the spot where you expect your subject to land. The reason you need a tripod for this is that even the smallest of nudges can change the focus. It also keeps your hands free for making minor adjustments (if needed) to the lens so you can reach your required focal plane once your subject is in the frame.
 

6. Focus Stacking

This technique is excellent for any static macro subjects. It's not recommended for use on live subjects such as insects as these tend to move. For the technique to work, you need to use editing software to combine several shots, where the focus is set at different points in each image, to effectively extend the depth of field of one shot. A tripod's needed as all the images need to line up perfectly for the technique to work successfully. For more information on Focus Stacking, take a look at John Gravett's article: Focus Stacking Images In Photoshop
 

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1. What Is A Triptych? 

A triptych is an image that consists of three different images that usually relate in some way. Why three? Well, items grouped in odd numbers are usually more compositionally pleasing and you can use three shots of different things or split one image up onto three separate panels. Generally, the image is presented so each shot is given the same space/shape to sit in on the canvas and they are evenly spread out. 

Triptychs are a great way to combine multiple viewpoints of the same place into a single shot so you can better tell the story of the scene you captured. It's also a good way to present images of a similar theme you've captured over time. 

 

2. What Photos Should I Use?

The images you use need to link to each other some way, but this doesn't necessarily mean it has to be of the same subject. They could be linked by colour, for example, or you could have applied the same treatment to them during post-production to make them appear similar. Images taken at the same focal length tend to appear more balanced when put together however, this rule isn't set in stone. You could also try linking them by movement, with three shots showing someone/something moving closer to the front of the frame or further away. 

 

3. Get Creative

Another way you could create a Triptych is to use several parts of the same scene in three separate images, capturing a wider view in the first then focusing on detail in the two that follow. Taking shots of the same scene at different times of the day or even the year can work effectively. For example, you could capture images of a tree during summer and autumn to show the contrast in colour/weather. 
 

4. Photograph Portraits

When shooting portraits, these types of shots tend to work better when your person, animal or object is looking into the frame rather than out as having them looking out of the shot will draw the viewer's attention away from the centre of the image. You can change the direction of which your subject is facing during post-production if you so wish. You could also have your subject creating three different facial expressions or poses a technique that can work particularly well with children. 
 

5. Fun With Photoshop

The easiest way to create a triptych is with editing software and we have a tutorial on creating triptychs in Photoshop over in our technique section: Create A Triptych For Your Photographs
 

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Use a tripod when shooting macro work to reduce the chances of shake creeping into the shot.

Camera shake, which can occur when you're not holding/supporting the camera correctly, can really spoil your shots but it's a problem that can be easily fixed. Most cameras now have features that help them prevent camera shake, however, there are still a few things the photographer can do to limit or even remove the shake that blurs your shots completely.

 

1. Use A Tripod

This may seem like an obvious response, but sometimes it may not be your first thought to use a tripod. A tripod will make a big difference to images if camera shake is a recurring issue. If you're travelling light, even a small tripod/stand that you can keep attached to the bottom of the camera will be handy for placing the camera down without worrying about scratching the bottom.

 

2. Shutter Speeds 

If you're working handheld, try and use the fastest shutter speed possible to minimise the risk of blur. If you're working in low light, try upping the ISO a little to enable you to shoot with faster shutter speeds, too. If your camera doesn't tend to produce good-quality shots when higher ISOs are used, take your tripod with you so you can use longer shutter speeds without having to worry about shake spoiling your shots. 

 

 

3. Remote Release

A remote release will enable you to trigger the shutter without physically pressing the shutter button and causing minute vibrations which can cause shake. Some cameras also allow you to trigger the camera using a connected smartphone or tablet device, which will work just the same as the remote release to stop vibrations. You can also use your camera's self-timer if you don't have one as even though you're still touching the camera, the timer should mean the camera's stopped moving by the time the exposure begins. 

 

4. Stance and Breathing

The way you hold your camera can have a big effect on the amount of blur caused by your own movement. Hold the camera with two hands close to your body and make sure your feet are shoulder-width apart. If composing with the screen, keep your elbows tucked in as you'll stand a better chance of capturing a steady image. Being conscious of your breathing can further minimise shake. Some suggest taking a deep breath, holding it, taking your shot and exhaling while others prefer to do it the other way around. It's not something that's recommended for very long exposures, though! 

 

5. Use Objects For Support

You may find leaning against a tree or a wall useful to steady your images. Do use the built-in level if you do this, however, to make sure that your horizon stays straight, as leaning can cause wonky images. You could also take a beanbag out with you or if you're really struggling to find a support, see if your camera bag will help. 

 

 

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