Photography News

We are living in a paradox. Cameras have never been more capable, yet the experience of buying and using them is still frustrating in many ways. The sensors are incredible. The autofocus is borderline supernatural. The lenses are sharper than anything we had a decade ago. And yet, there's a lot that can still be improved.

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Instagram is still where most people will first see your work, even if you also have a website. Ignore it entirely and you hand that first impression to chance.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to mikeuk (Day 7 - Winter Silhouettes)

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

'New'

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Day 2

Close-Up Outdoor

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Day 3

'Learn'

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  Day 4

Sport

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Day 5

Black & White Landscape

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Day 6

Sunrise Landscapes

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Day 8

Winter Wildlife

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Day 9

Long Shutter Speed

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

Photography is often spoken about as if it were a competition, measured by likes, awards, or comparisons with others. Yet at its core, photography is a deeply personal practice. The way we see, decide, and capture moments is unique to each of us, shaped by our experiences, timing, and attention. Understanding this distinction is essential to sustaining a meaningful and fulfilling relationship with the creativity that photography allows.

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Discover how intentional choices in photography can transform ordinary moments into compelling visual narratives, revealing profound stories hidden within everyday experiences.

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A selection of our 'POTW' winners from 2025.

 

Our generous 'Photo of the Week' (POTW) supporter, Samsung, has kindly offered to award one of our 2025 POTW winners a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield as the prize for the accolade of Photo of the Year 2025 Award.

Which photo deserves the bonus prize and the 'Photo of the Year' title? We need your help to decide!

Until the end of January 2026, you can vote by hitting the 'like' button on your favorite 2025 POTW images in our Photo of the Year 2025 forum.

Start selecting your favourites using the 'like' button now!

Once the closing date is reached, the ePHOTOzine team will count up the 'likes,' and our 'Photo of the Year' winner will be announced.

We look forward to seeing how you all vote!

 

 

There are plenty of great mountain ranges scattered around the UK that are well worth a photo at any time of year but in winter, when a covering of snow's fallen or a hard frost has settled they tend to look even more impressive.

The cool, clean air of winter is good for capturing mountainscapes as everything seems much more clear with distant subjects appearing crisp. However, snow, ice and cold plus a mountain equals conditions you have to be extremely careful in. Make sure you dress correctly, have a route planned, carry the right equipment (map, compass, phone etc.) and tell someone where you're going.
 

What kit will be useful?

You'll find both a wide-angle and longer lens useful so make room for both in your camera bag and don't forget your tripod or monopod as a support is a must. A polarising filter will cut down on glare/reflections while an ND Grad filter will balance out the contrast between the sky and ground.

Sweeping shots from the tops, especially with snow and a crisp, blue sky look great but if you go too wide with your lens choice the sense of grandeur can be lost so be careful and check your frame before hitting the shutter button.

Think about scale

For shots that give the mountain(s) more depth compose your shots from a spot where you can make the most of their size from. Don't forget that foreground interest such as the mountain's ridge help give your image scale and can be used to lead the eye through the shot.

For shots with foreground and background interest where front to back sharpness is needed you'll need to use smaller apertures which can mean longer exposure times are needed so make sure you have your tripod or monopod with you.

Consider a panorama for impact

Don't forget about panoramas as they work particularly well for shots of mountain ranges. It won't give you shots that really show off the mountain's height, but it will emphasise how far the landscape stretches out into the distance for. For tips on panoramas, have a look at our previous articles.

Shots of the mountain are what really show how tall these natural structures are, rather than photos taken from the top of them - good news for those that are a little less intrepid! You can use a wide lens but you have to be closer than you think to the mountain(s) to create any sense of height and more often than not, whatever is in the background tends to lose impact with the foreground taking centre stage. It's much easier to use a longer telephoto that pulls the distant mountain to you, filling the frame and as a result, giving the shot more impact.

Comfort and readiness can matter more than the plan you wrote down. You can do everything right and still miss the shot that appears for 30 seconds while you are fumbling with your bag.

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Taking only one camera into winter hills sounds simple until the camera is a plastic Holga with one shutter speed and one aperture. If you shoot film and still want usable negatives when the light swings from predawn to harsh midday, this setup forces decisions you normally avoid.

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The Viltrox AF 56mm f/1.2 Pro just landed in Nikon Z mount, and it is aimed straight at that classic portrait look on APS-C. If you shoot people on Nikon DX and you want strong separation without jumping to larger, pricier full frame glass, this lens sits right on the pressure point.

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When creatively playing with focus, having out of focus areas that are the main focal point rather than having a sharp, in focus point of interest can add more intrigue and interest to a shot. You can also use out of focus foregrounds as frames, to guide the eye through the shot or throw sharpness entirely out of the window and create something much more abstract with your out of focus shots. But to do this you first have to know how you can control it then execute it in a way that doesn't make it look like something you did by mistake. 
 

How Do I Control What's In Focus? The easiest way is with aperture priority as you can change the size of the aperture to bring more or less into focus. If your camera struggles to focus where you want it to in auto-focus, use focus lock to get the image you want rather than taking a photo the camera thinks is right.

The elements can help you make more creative shots too as fog / mist can help soften scenes as long range images gradually lose contrast and far objects will disappear or appear as silhouettes. You can also try shooting through things. With a wide enough aperture and a close shooting distance they will add an extra level of out of focus interest to your shot.
  Portraits We are always told that sharp portraits with backgrounds thrown out of focus are what work but there are times when a little blur can go a long way. It can work well when you're trying to create the feel of a candid, reportage style shot rather than something that's posed and set up. It can also add a little romanticism and mystery to a shot. Indoors, making your subject a little less sharp can work in the studio too as Rossella Vanon explains: "I personally love shooting portraits by using a very big aperture and blurring the whole background and part of the subject too. It gives a very simple, creative twist to the picture and I would definitely recommend it."
  Same Shot Different Message A simple change in focus will not only change the main focal point of your shot but can change the message too. The two shots here are of the same two people but the first you're left wondering what the women in the foreground is looking at and thinking while the second shot is all about the subject in the background of the shot. 




Out On The Town Blurry backgrounds shouldn't be forgotten altogether but instead of throwing something that's usually seen as secondary out of focus, step further back from what you're photographing and throw the, what others would consider to be the main point of interest, out of focus. This can work well with landmarks, particularly in cities where you can use tourists taking photos of the landmark or even artists as your main point of focus. Do remember you need the right angle and interesting, contrasting elements for this to work successfully, though.

On rainy days, shoot through windows that have water running down them, blurring what's on the outside or use the ripples of a puddle to shoot a more abstract shot of city lights at night.
  Foreground Frames Frames are a great tool for guiding the eye to what's important in the shot but they don't always have to be obvious, frame – like objects such as windows for the shot to work. Some out of focus foreground detail such as foliage, grass, branches or even fabrics and plastic will add another level of interest as well as act as a guide for the eye to your subject. Make sure you're close to your foreground detail and use a wide enough aperture to throw it out of focus otherwise it won't blur and will pull attention away from your main subject. Auto focus may want to focus on what's in the foreground rather than the background so switch to manual if this happens.
  All Blurry If you're trying to create an abstract shot where everything is soft, you need a subject that's colourful and has interesting shapes and lines otherwise your shot won't have the impact you first intended it to have.
  Zoom, Zoom, Zoom This technique is more about having an image that's not sharp rather than focusing but still, it gives you an interesting result that shows sharp isn't always best. To get it right you need to set the zoom to either the short or long end of the focal length range, open the shutter, wait for a while then in one, smooth, quite quick movement, zoom out. By pausing at the start your subject will have a little definition before the blur kicks in. Fit a neutral density filter or a polarising filter if you can't get a slow enough shutter speed and meter from your main focus point. Make sure you have a low ISO set and switch to a small aperture to get the slower shutter speed that's needed.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

ePHOTOzine is happy to announce the winners of the 2025 Christmas Prize Draw giveaway!

 

Congratulations to all the winners, and thank you again to our kind sponsors.

 

Here are the winners!

 

Day 1: £1,000 To Spend With MPB:

Dennis Debono (Bigdenbo)

 

Day 2: Nikon Z50 II + 16-50mm Kit:

Catherine Taylor (CathTay)

 

Day 3: £500 To Spend With MPB:

Andrew Thompson (AndrewThompson)

 

Day 4: Wacom Intuos Pro Medium:

David Lees (Dlees78)

 

Day 5: SIGMA 17-40mm F1.8 DC Art:

Steve Whitfield (boxer57)

 

Day 6: 1 of 10 Zoner Studio yearly licenses:

1. Gary Macleod (Gary_Macleod)
2. Joe Fuller (5hutterlag)
3. Arnie Livingston (zwarder)
4. Helen Jones (Opals_mum)
5. Andrew William McDonald (awmcdonald)
6. Richard Niglas (estonian)
7. Stephen (Steve_i2007)
8. Steve Walmsley (stevew10000)
9. John Askey (JJ_A)
10. Maggie Maddock (maggiem)

 

Day 7:

Exclusive 3DWiggle Packages - King package 1500+ Wigglegrams:

Chris Parnham (Metalhead)

 

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Exclusive 3DWiggle Packages – Enthusiast package:

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6. Izak Wilkinson (WilkinsonIzak)
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8. RWPhotoGraphix (RWPhotoGraphix)
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10. Daniel Spalding (spaldingd)
11. Bartlomiej Soltys (FriendlyLlama)
12. Mark Rayner (markrayner1982)
13. Shane Weir (sweir1)
14. Sophie Carter (saffy11)
15. Neil Watson (onelastwin)
16. Kayleigh Beirne (kaybee1001)
17. Darren Mcowen (Dzzmm100)
18. Kathleen Hooper (katieskatie82)
19. Amy Vigrass (AmyJV)
20. Katy Leat (smurfpunx)

 

Day 8: 1 of 3 Datacolor SpyderPros:

1. Tony Agnew (Tony2645)
2. Geoff Rundle (GeoffRundle)
3. David Nordell (chalkhillblue)

 

Day 9: £250 To Spend With MPB:

David Ritchie (flatfoot471)

 

Day 10: 1 of 3 Samsung EVO Plus 1TB Memory Cards:

1. Emile de Sousa (Oldstoat)
2. Karen (KazG)
3. Steve Bell (steveb)

 

Day 11: Atomos Ninja TX GO:

Malc Bernhard (saltireblue)

 

Day 12: Meike 85mm f/1.8 SE Mark II lens:

Volker Brandl (Colourimeter)

 

Day 13: Samsung Portable SSD T7 Shield:

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Day 14: Atomos StudioSonic Mic + Headphones Bundle:

Mal Ogden (Techno)

 

Day 15: 1 of 10 Outdoor Photographer Subscriptions:

1. Pete Fiore (pmfiore)
2. Michael Di Stefano (MadManMikeD)
3. Mike Hughes (Bdc300)
4. Gary Stonewall (Stnrck64)
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7. Lesley S. Blevins (lesleysfix)
8. Lou Novick (lnovick)
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Day 25: 1 of 10 ePHOTOzine 1-Year Plus Memberships:

1. Dermel
2. expederest
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Not A Lucky Winner This Time?

Upload a photo to win our 'Photo of the Week' accolade that's up for grabs weekly! Each winner of the ‘Photo of the Week’ in 2026 wins a 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter from Samsung. We also have our for-fun Daily Theme Challenge, so join in and upload your favourite themed photos.

Mobile phone cameras are now capable of producing shots which even the most critical photographer will say are decent and well worth displaying in portfolios. Modern smartphones have had a major impact on the photography market as a lot are now capable of producing images just as good, or even better, than basic compact cameras. If a compact is all you wanted to use for your travels, why not upgrade your smartphone and have one less item to pack? 

When you couple this improved technology with the hundreds of apps that are available which are designed to help you be more creative and take better photos, it's easy to see why there's a growing admiration for this form of photography.

As most people now carry a smartphone that has a camera built in we thought we'd put a list of ten tips together to help you improve your shots taken with cameras built into mobile phones, for those situations when you want a good shot and all you happen to have is your phone. 

 

 

Think Of It As A Camera

Holding your phone in one hand and trying to press the shutter button will only result in blurry, wonky shots. Holding your phone with two hands quite close to your body will mean your phone is much more stable and as a result, your images will be better. A lot of modern smartphones now have dedicated shutter buttons to help you capture photos easily, and some even have the ability to take a photo from a squeeze of the sides, like the HTC U11. 

 

Stay Still

Having your arms tucked close to your sides and standing as still as possible will stop any blur caused by movement from spoiling your shot. Don't move your phone away as soon as you've clicked your shutter button either as shutter lag can mean your camera's still processing the shot so you'll end up with a blurry photo of another part of the scene rather than the person or object you want a photo of. Phones like the Samsung Galaxy S9 have OIS built-in, to help combat this too. 

 

Use Accessories

Many companies are now producing lenses and supports for iPhones and other mobile phones which can help enhance and improve your mobile phone photos. One example is the USB Fever Super 20x Macro Lens which offers a magnification of 20x. You can find out how the lens performs in our review. Lensbaby also make a kit which uses magnets to let you interchange various creative lenses.

 

 

 

Zoom With Your Feet

If your camera phone doesn't have an optical zoom use your feet to move you closer to your subject rather than using the digital zoom which can lower the quality of the shot.

 

Light

You'll be relying on natural light most of the time so get outside, when possible, and set up near windows or patio doors when working inside. If you need to turn a few lights on, do watch the colour cast they create. You can tweak the white balance on some phones or there are apps available which you can do this with too. Some also give you exposure compensation options so you can brighten or darken your shot. It's worth checking your settings, which we'll cover next, to find out exactly what your phone's camera can and can't do. Most modern phones pride themselves on having good low light capabilities, many of which use apertures of f/2 or wider to maximise light entering the lens.

Be careful where you position yourself when shooting outdoors as shooting in the direction of the sun can result in flare, although some people like the effect and it can actually work quite well with some shots. As well as having too much light in your shot too little can result in grainy shots where not much detail can be seen.

 

Check Your Settings

Go into your camera's settings and make sure that you camera is primed for the shot. Are there different scene modes to choose from? Experiment to find the right one. A lot of mobiles offer 'pro' or 'advanced' modes, allowing you to change the ISO and shutter speed, white balance etc manually, and experienced photographers will find this useful to personalise images. You may also find there are various shooting modes on offer as well as presets such as night, panorama and portrait mode all designed to help you take the best shot possible.

 

The Lens

It's quite easy to take a shot where a finger or thumb is covering the lens so watch where you position your hands. As phones are put in pockets and carried around in bags they get dusty easily and due to us handling them a lot they get covered in greasy fingerprints quite quickly too so make sure you keep your lens clean and check it before you take any shots.

 

 

Try Different Angles

Working with a phone generally gives you more flexibility than a camera that's on a tripod so make the most of this freedom by varying your shooting angle and trying new shots. People don't always know you're taking a picture when you're holding your phone either, making them good for quick street candids. This doesn't mean you can take photos in places that say you can't though, you still have to obey the rules.

 

Don't Forget About Post Production

Using a phone to take photos with isn't an excuse for not correcting wonky horizons or adjusting the brightness levels in a shot. You can edit your photos with apps on your phone but the screen is a little small so don't overlook transferring them to your computer so you can edit on a larger screen.

 

Experiment With Apps

There's no excuse for not experimenting with your phone photography as the many apps that are available mean you can colour pop photos, add frames, create film effects... the list goes on. There's also apps out there that offer you shooting advice in the palm of your hand so if you want to brush up on your wedding photography while out and about, for example, you can. Some apps you have to pay for but there's also many free apps available which are just as good. Take a look at our review section to see what apps we've liked the most.

 

There’s a lot of talk about the Hasselblad XPan, usually centered around the price and the mystique behind that panoramic format. The camera has earned its reputation, and the images it produces have a distinct character. But when you look closely at what makes XPan photographs stand out, it becomes clear that the look is not locked behind a rare film camera. The biggest element of the XPan aesthetic is the aspect ratio. However, it is something that any digital camera can replicate with careful planning in the field and some straightforward work in post. I set myself an experiment.

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Lightroom Classic can make a winter scene look clean and accurate, but that is not always the look you want. If your snow scenes keep feeling bland or strangely “digital,” this edit shows how to use white balance and local control to push mood without wrecking the file.

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We all want our photos to pop. That desire drives us to experiment with sliders, presets, and AI tools that promise to transform our images into something extraordinary. But there is a fine line between "enhanced" and "radioactive," and most of us have crossed it without even realizing it. Your desire to make a better image is not the culprit. The problem is that when you push too hard, the image loses its anchor in reality, and the viewer stops looking at the subject and starts looking at the editing itself.

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A lens like the NIKKOR Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S II tends to become the default choice when you need one zoom that can handle tight streets, indoor light, and quick portraits without swapping glass. If you shoot travel, events, or hybrid photo and video, the real question is not whether this range works, but whether this specific version earns its weight and cost in your bag.

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Cheap 85mm lenses can look like an easy win until you start noticing the tradeoffs: size, focus behavior, background rendering, and how hard you have to work in post. If you shoot portraits on Sony E mount, this comparison matters because small differences at 85mm show up fast in faces, hair, and specular highlights.

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The Canon EOS C50 sits in a tricky space: small enough to rig like a compact cinema body, but spec’d like it expects real jobs. If you shoot paid video, wildlife, or talking-head work, the C50’s mix of open gate, internal raw, and practical I/O can change what you carry and what you skip.

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Photos by Joshua Waller

 

1. Use A Longer Lens

When shooting portraits a standard zoom is fine but a longer lens will give you more flattering shots and a tripod can be useful if you're using a slower shutter speed due to the amount of light available. Before picking up the flashgun, reach for a reflector to bounce some extra light into your shot and if it's too bright try hanging netting on the window but stay away from colour as you'll get a cast on your image.

 

2. Cloudy Days Are Good

Cloudy days, which we seem to have a lot of at the moment, are perfect for portraits as the light's diffused and if you have a spot or window if you're working indoors that's not in the direct path of the sun even better. Before you start, make sure you clean your window, though, as a dirty one can be a full f/stop darker and turn your house lights off.

3. Use A Reflector 

If you find that the sun is causing shadows to appear under the nose and/or chin of your model use a reflector to add light to the areas in shadow or if you're indoors, move them more into the room, away from the window.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

  4. Get Your Metering Right

Don't meter from your window when shooting at home as this will have the same effect as snow has on your camera – it will think the scene is brighter than it actually is and your model will, therefore, be underexposed. However, by simply metering from your model's face you'll have no problems. To give your shot more warmth try the cloud or shade white balance settings.
 

5. It's All In The Eyes

The eyes need to be sharp and the front of their face needs to be in the light to draw attention to it. Asking your model to simply tilt their head slightly will bring more/less of their face into the light. You can also move your camera around the scene to find a suitable position to shoot from.
 

6. Create An Angle 

Try sitting your model 45-degrees to the direction the light is coming from or how about shooting side on? For more interesting shots try only lighting half of them or have a go at creating shapes from their silhouette.

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition