Photography News

Shooting in auto is normal. It is professional. The camera now takes over a technical layer that once demanded constant attention and experience. Exposure, white balance, tone mapping, and autofocus are handled quickly and with stable results. What used to require conscious monitoring now arrives as a reliable baseline. This does not mean the work disappeared. It means part of the work moved. 

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50mm remains the most popular prime focal length for a reason: it sits in a natural middle ground, neither compressing like a telephoto nor distorting like a wide angle, which makes it the lens many reach for first. Christopher Frost has now tested over 70 different 50mm lenses, and with a wave of new options hitting the market, his original ranking needed a serious update. 

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Finding a capable camera for under $1,500 on the used market is completely realistic right now, but the right choice depends entirely on what you're shooting. The gap between a dedicated photo camera, a video workhorse, and a true hybrid is wide enough that picking the wrong one is an expensive mistake. 

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Raw files straight out of your camera carry noise, chromatic aberration, and lens imperfections that will follow your image through every step of post-processing. Running your files through a dedicated pre-processor before you ever open Lightroom gives you a cleaner foundation to work from, and the results compound as you edit. 

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Lighting modifiers can make or break a photo, but most people learn about them by reading descriptions instead of seeing them work in real time. Watching how light wraps, falls off, and creates dimension on an actual three-dimensional subject is a faster path to understanding than any chart or spec sheet. 

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Waterfalls, no matter their size, are a pretty awe-inspiring naturally occurring element that stand tall in the landscape and are well worth a photo or two. With this in mind, here are some quick-fire ideas you can think about next time you're lucky enough to be photographing one. 

 

Do It Differently 

 

Instead of starting with slow shutter speeds and blurry water (we'll get to this in a bit) why not take the time to think how you can shoot the waterfall you've found on your travels differently?

1. Try standing on the curve of a riverbank so you can use the s-curves created by the flowing water to lead the eye to the waterfall. Look at the scenery to the sides of the waterfall. Do the wet rocks have particularly interesting patterns? Is the foliage particularly vibrant and as a result will make a colourful frame?

2. Closer to the waterfall take your wellies, waders and macro lens with you and photograph the bubbles that are formed.

3. When winter comes around again a few days of really cold weather can turn waterfalls into interesting ice structures and icicles on the edge of banks can turn an ordinary-looking shot into something more spectacular.

 

4. Enhance the power of the waterfall with fast shutter speeds then finally turn your attention to everyone's favourite technique - blurring water with slow shutter speeds. You need your tripod and your camera set to shutter priority. Then, pick a slow-ish shutter speed of around one to two seconds, check your composition and take your shot. If you find your shot's overexposed use a polarising filter or switch to aperture priority mode but then it can take you a while to find the right shutter speed. You can also go back to your chosen location at sunrise or sunset when the light's not as bright.

 

For more tips on photographing waterfalls, have a look at these tutorials:

• Ten Top Tips On Photographing Waterfalls
• Waterfall Photography For Beginners
• Capture Movement In Your Landscape Shots
• Photographing Waterfalls

 

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Professional photography expanded under conditions of limited access, high risk, and irreversible failure. Those conditions no longer define most photographic tasks. As they collapsed, professional involvement narrowed to a much smaller set of requirements. What remains is a persistent mismatch between task complexity and professional scale. 

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  Wondering what the point of using a tripod is when your arms do a great job of holding your camera? Here are our eight reasons why you should consider popping a tripod on your 'must-have' photography kit list. 

 

1. A Tripod Frees Your Hands

 

Using a tripod leaves you to have your hands free, making it easier to tweak and adjust your lens, camera settings and composition. You can also set the camera up and move away from its position which means you can capture shy animals or position your tripod where you may not want to stand such as in a pool of water that sits in front of a waterfall. 

 

2. Helpful For Panning

 

If you want to create a sense of speed when capturing action shots such as cars racing around a track or bikes speeding around a course you'll want your sharp subject to be sat against a blurred background. To do this you need to pan your camera, following the subject as they move through your frame and although you can do this hand-held, some photographers find it easier to use a tripod or monopod to help them capture the perfect pan. Monopods can move with the turn of your body while if you choose to use a tripod, a pan or ball head will make the task easier.

 

3. Create Different Angles

 

By using a tripod, you can get to new higher or lower angles that you wouldn't be able to reach as easily or comfortably if working hand-held. For example, macro and flower photography is easier if you have a tripod where the centre column can be moved from zero to 180-degree angles. You can then use your camera facing the ground or at 90-degrees if you're shooting into a flowerbed. Some tripods also have special low lever legs and macro arms that mean you can position the camera at almost ground level. 

 

4. You Can Do Time Lapse Photography

 

Time-lapse photography is all about capturing a sequence of shots a few seconds, minutes, hours or even days apart. These shots are then combined to form a series of images that can be played back as a short video. As any movement of the camera will cause your final piece to appear jaunty you'll need a support for your camera. Take a look at this tutorial for more tips: Time Lapse Photography

 

5. Play Around With Longer Exposures     

If you're planning on taking photos at sunset or in the evening you'll need to use slower shutter speeds so enough light can reach the sensor for the image to expose correctly. But working with slower speeds hand-held can mean shake will blur your shot. A tripod will help reduce this and keep your hands free to hold a cup of tea when you're using really long exposures to capture evening shots such as light trails!

Don't think you just need your tripod in the evening though as to turn the movement of waterfalls, rivers and waves into smooth, dry ice-like textures, you'll need slower shutter speeds. 

  6. Get Your Horizons Straight

 

Most tripods feature spirit levels which will show you if your tripod's straight and you can also buy spirit levels which can be clipped to your camera's hot shoe. Tripods also make it easier to adjust the position of your camera which in turn will move where the horizon sits in your shot. For more tips on why this is important, take a look at this article: Photographing Horizons

 

7. Capture Panoramas

 

Panoramas are created by stitching a series of shots together (either in-camera or during post-production) that you've captured by moving your camera from one side of the frame to the other, allowing for a little overlap between each frame. A tripod will keep your shots steady and level which means they'll be easier to stitch together if you're doing it manually. 

 

8. Shoot Self Portraits

 

Working with your arm outstretched so you can be in frame isn't practical and won't produce award-winning shots anytime soon. For this reason, it's important to have a support so you can frame up, ensuring your horizon is straight if out on location before you take your shot. The same goes for group shots at parties, weddings and other gatherings you attend where you want to be in the frame. It also means you can shoot self-portraits in the studio, leaving the camera framed-up on the spot you want to position yourself in once you've set the camera up. 

 

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After comparing the new MacBook Neo to Apple’s Air and Pro, a lot of people asked the obvious question: what about Windows?  

Yesterday I went to Walmart, bought a $659 Asus Vivobook, and tested it directly against the $600 MacBook Neo using the exact same real-world tasks.

Watch the video above to see the exact results of every test, but I'll summarize my findings below. 

MacBook Neo ($600)

Apple’s cheapest laptop continues to punch way above its price.

Pros

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Every year, the cherry blossom trees around the Tidal Basin and throughout D.C. bloom in a spectacular display of pink and white petals. These annual events provide an opportunity to create stunning landscapes and captivating portraits. In preparation for this year's National Cherry Blossom Festival, here are some tips and tricks to help get you up to speed on where to get the best shots and when to shoot. 

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Apple just released the incredibly cheap Macbook Neo for $599 and you might be wondering what it's capable of. In this video I'll put it head to head against the Macbook Air, and Macbook Pro.  

To see the results of each test, you'll need to watch the video above but I'll give you a quick summary of what I discovered. 

MacBook Neo

A18Pro, 8GB Ram, 256GB Storage, $599

This is easily the most surprising laptop of the bunch.

Pros

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Photography education has a blind spot. Workshops teach you exposure. YouTube teaches you composition. College teaches you history. But nobody sits you down and explains the professional norms that separate working photographers from talented hobbyists who can't figure out why clients aren't coming back. These aren't technical skills. They're behavioral patterns, the kind of knowledge that usually arrives the hard way, after a mistake you can't undo. Here are ten of them, collected so you don't have to learn each one at your own expense. 

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Lightroom's lens blur filter got a bad reputation fast. When it launched, some people predicted it would make fast glass obsolete, and then it didn't, because on most real-world photos, cranking it up just looks fake. 

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For many of us, photography has been an outlet for processing loss, grief, and our connection to humanity. One photographer takes us along his own journey in the literal footsteps of his ancestors — through the viewfinders of their very own cameras. 

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Shooting personal branding with a single light sounds limiting until you see what Lindsay Adler does with one modifier, a few small adjustments, and a corner of the room. The gap between a dramatic, shadow-heavy portrait and a soft, glowing high-key image can come down to nothing more than removing a grid and pointing a light at the ceiling. 

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Shooting portraits only during golden hour with an 85mm lens sounds like solid advice until you realize it's quietly limiting what you're capable of creating. This video breaks down five of the most common portrait photography myths and explains what to do differently. 

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Wedding photography stress is mostly optional. That might sound like a bold claim, but this video makes a compelling case that the overwhelming feeling most people associate with shooting weddings comes from gaps in preparation, not the job itself. 

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The CHUZHAO Mini TLR was one of the most unexpectedly popular digital cameras to hit the consumer market in 2025. In this short video, I'll show you how to shoot infrared photography with this viral toy camera. 

It was an undertaking completely devoid of logic outside all rational photographic understanding. I'm not sure what possessed me to attempt to use this tiny plastic camera for infrared photography. Much like the summit of Mount Everest, perhaps I wanted to undertake this ridiculous experiment simply because it was there.

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The Moon. We've walked on it, watched it eclipse the sun and many of us will have spent many an evening looking at it as it sits above us in the night's sky. Another popular moon-related activity is to photograph it and with the right kit, a little understanding on how cameras 'see' and a bit of patience, it's actually not that tricky to capture a decent image of this giant lump of rock that we see every night. 

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1. Camera, Lenses & A Tripod

Obviously, you won't get very far without a camera and while most will reach for long lenses and their more advanced camera, it is possible to capture a half-decent image of the moon with a compact so long as it has a good zoom range on it. If you are going for the interchangeable lens option, reach for something around the 300mm plus mark and you'll capture much more frame-filling shots. A tripod and remote release are handy, especially if you plan on capture multiple shots to blends together, and do wrap up warm. 

 

2. Overexposed Moon 

Once your kit's out and you've taken your first shot, you'll probably see an image that has a very dark sky with an extremely bright, white circle in it. This happens because of the large amount of black surrounding the moon confuses your camera's light meter. To fix this, dial down the exposure compensation or you can try using Spot metering (or meter manually) as this will tell the camera to take an exposure reading just from the moon.

It'll also help if you use a smaller aperture (try a few test shots around the f/11 mark and adjust from there), particularly if you're noticing small spots on the moon which are appearing brighter than others as you'll be able to keep adjusting your settings (shutter speed, aperture, ISO) until most are removed. It's also worth remembering that using a smaller aperture will mean less light reaches your camera's sensor and as a result, you may need to reduce your shutter speeds slightly but we're not talking so much that the movement of the moon is blurred (the moon moves quicker than you think). Try something around the 1/125sec mark and tinker from there.

You'll also need to work rather quickly as spend too long messing with settings and you'll find the moon will have already moved out of the frame and you'll have to adjust your tripod's position again.

 

 

3. Bracketing Your Shots 

Right, back to exposure. What we've mentioned previously is great if you just want to capture a frame-filling image of the moon set against the night's sky but it won't really work for images where you want to capture some foreground interest as well. For this, you'll need to bracket your shots. Many cameras have a feature that automates this process but if your camera doesn't, you can do it manually. In a nutshell, bracketing is where multiple shots of different exposures are captured and merged together, either in-camera or manually on a computer, to create one image that has all the elements you want to feature in your shot correctly exposed. Take a look at ePHOTOzine's 'Inspiration' section for more tips on this technique. 

 

4. Location, Location, Location 

If it's possible, you'll want to get away from towns and cities as light pollution can reduce the amount of detail you'll see in your moon shots and don't always think the sky has to be completely dark either as the blue of twilight can add an interesting twist to your moon imagery. The weather, how cold it is and levels of pollution can also change how your final image will look so do take plenty of shots and consider taking images on different nights, too. 

 

 

5. Half Moon Or Less

Your idea of the perfect moon shot will probably be of a full moon and there's nothing wrong with this, but to really capture the shapes and lines of the craters, wait until there's half or less of the moon visible. By doing so, you'll see how shadows and light emphasis shape and really enhance to 3-D feel thanks to the side-on light the sun creates during this phase. Using an app or having a look online for a moon phase calendar will help you figure out when will be the best time to set your camera gear up outside. 

 

6. Boost Contrast 

You may find you need to boost contrast levels in your editing software or have a play with curves to pull detail that might have become lost but don't be tempted to adjust the size of the moon in your shot as this will just look unnatural and spoil the composition of your image. 

 

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Tilt-shift lenses used to be rare and unattainable for most photographers. Back then it would cost an arm and a leg just to get one, but now Laowa has made it more available for almost every major camera system, and this new lens expands the available options.

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