Photography News

    Wonky horizons are the bane of many landscape and cityscape photographers as a horizon that's slightly off-tilt can spoil what's otherwise a perfectly good shot. Of course, there will be times when holding your camera at an angle so the horizon line is deliberately not straight but if you do want to do this, make sure it's really obvious as otherwise, it'll just look like you forgot to check your frame before hitting the shutter button.   How To Straighten Horizons    1. Line it up with the bottom or top of your frame   The easiest way to ensure you have horizontal horizons is to line it up with the bottom or top of your frame, either in your viewfinder or on the LCD screen. Some cameras also have a digital spirit level feature which will indicate to you when the camera is level  - both on the horizontal and vertical planes. It can be displayed in the viewfinder or on the back monitor when using Live View, along with all your other settings. When the marker is in the middle of the gauge and turns green, you know you're level.     2. Rule of thirds grid  If you don't have a digital spirit level, have a look in your camera's menu options to see if there's a rule of thirds grid. We know this isn't designed for this purpose but the grid will have horizontal lines on it that can be a handy guide when you're looking for a quick way to check the horizon.          3. Use a spirit level Another option is to purchase a spirit level that sits on your camera's hot shoe and to use a tripod as you're more likely to move / not hold the camera straight when you shooting hand-held.      4. Post Production  Of course, you can always straighten your images in whatever editing software you use as well but it's good practise to get it right in-camera whenever possible.    

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

I realize that articles about older cameras don't trend nearly as hard as shiny new toys. But my recent purchase of the Nikon Zf has paid off in more ways than I could have ever imagined. 

[Read More]

Photography has a generous supply of conventional wisdom. Some of it is earned. Some of it is repeated so often that nobody questions whether it was ever true in the first place. And some of it is actively wrong, kept alive by a community that confuses encouragement with honesty. 

[Read More]

Choosing the right Sony camera is genuinely hard. The lineup spans everything from pocket-sized compacts to flagship sports bodies, and picking the wrong one means spending money on specs you'll never use or missing features you actually need. 

[Read More]

Getting invited onto a feature film set as a guest camera operator is not something that happens every day, and when it does, the gap between that world and smaller productions becomes impossible to ignore. The crew size, the budget pressure, the overtime math: it all adds up to something that operates on a completely different level than commercial shoots or YouTube content. 

[Read More]

Choosing a 35mm lens for a Sony camera used to mean paying a premium for the Sony FE 35mm f/1.4 GM or settling for something that fell short in one area or another. The Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG DN Art changes that math in a meaningful way, and the second version of this lens is smaller, lighter, and improved across nearly every metric compared to its predecessor. 

[Read More]

Natural light sounds foolproof until you realize the walls, grass, and brick around your subject are quietly wrecking your skin tones. Omar Gonzalez shot four portraits in four different locations, same camera, same white balance, and the color differences are visible enough to make you rethink where you've been setting up. 

[Read More]

As artificial intelligence continues to advance, everyone seems to be saying AI is coming for the fashion industry, especially for photographers and models. I recently put Nano Banana Pro through a real e-commerce test to see whether it could actually do the job of a professional photographer with a full team. 

[Read More]

 

What Is Mood?

Mood essentially relates to the lighting in a shot. Giving something mood usually means we are trying to make it dark and brooding – making it moody. But mood can relate to any lighting situation, to give your photo any mood/feeling.

For landscape photography, mood usually relates to the weather. A cloudy, unsettled day will create mood in a way most of us expect it to be - dark and brooding. Although the opposite, where streaks of the sun break through the cloud to shine light on parts of the green landscape is equally as good, it's just the mood/feeling is different. 

 

Gear Choices

To take good moody landscapes, you're going to need a tripod as dark days may be good for the style of shot you're trying to create but the lack of light can lead to slower shutter speeds and working without a tripod can result in shake. 

 

 

Be Patient

This type of photography requires patience. To get the best shots, you need to wait until there is a break in the weather to get some really interesting lighting effects from the turbulent sky. Of course, mood doesn't have to be cloudy, but with landscapes, it's more of a challenge to portray mood on bright, sunny, cloudless days. 

When the right light does arrive, work quickly as it can be gone again before you know it. The key to this is always to be ready, having your gear out and framing in-mind before the right light does show its face. 
 

Be Prepared

Check the weather forecast the night before as there's no point heading out if you find the weather isn't going to be right. You also need to have the right type of location as you'll find some subjects will work better in dark, moody shots than others. 

 

 

Convert Your Shots

Black and white is another way to create mood in your photography. Taking photos of a gnarly tree, for example, in black and white will look so much more foreboding than a shot in colour. You can shoot black and white in-camera although, if you shoot in colour, you can convert your shots to black and white in your chosen editing software, giving you more control over the tones, highlights and shadows in the shot.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

You just bought a camera. Maybe it is a Canon EOS R50, maybe a Nikon Z50 II, maybe a Sony a6400 you found on sale, maybe a Fujifilm X-T50 that took three months on a waitlist. Whatever it is, you unboxed it, charged the battery, took a couple of test shots of your cat, and now it is sitting on the counter while you wonder what to do next. 

[Read More]

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|229889|3847697[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to TheShaker (Day 18- Weather).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

People In The Landscapes

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|336842|336842_1776410942.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 19

Lighthouses

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|344708|344708_1776629761.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 20

Numbers & Letters

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|98542|2491291[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 21

'Arty' Theme

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|324638|3916168[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 22

'Fun' Theme

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|44488|44488_1776845615.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 23

Flotsam

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|332115|332115_1776928371.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

There's a sentence that keeps coming back in photography circles: street photography is dead. 

Most people say it with nostalgia. Some say it with frustration. A few say it like a provocation.

They're all wrong. And right.

Street photography isn't dead because people stopped doing it. It's "dead" because everyone started.

 The Real Problem Isn’t Death. It’s Saturation.

We are producing more images today than at any other point in history. Every street corner, every passing gesture, every accidental juxtaposition: it's all being photographed, constantly.

[Read More]

Many photographers produce abstract-looking images accidentally. Far fewer build abstract photography as a discipline. 

[Read More]

Many people approach editing by opening an image, applying a preset, and hoping for the best. That works occasionally, but more often it produces results that feel slightly off in ways that are hard to diagnose, let alone fix. 

[Read More]

Shooting model portraits well has less to do with gear than most people assume, and everything to do with understanding light and how to pose a subject. Whether you're working with a phone by a window or a pair of strobes in a studio, the gap between a flat, forgettable shot and one that actually stops someone mid-scroll comes down to a handful of decisions you make before you ever press the shutter. 

[Read More]

The Viltrox 35mm f/1.2 is already a well-regarded fast prime, but Viltrox has now released a revised version called the AF 35mm f/1.2 STF N, dropping the LED display and swapping the old control ring for a proper aperture ring. If you shoot Sony E-mount and have been watching this lens, the changes are worth understanding before you spend $999. 

[Read More]

YouTube has a burnout problem, and Gerald Undone just went public with his. After more than a decade of lab-style camera reviews, Undone announced he's stepping away from the format entirely. The conversation about why is more honest than most creators ever get on camera. 

[Read More]

There’s something surprisingly novel about making a new lens for a system that predates the governments of many modern countries. The Leica Thread Mount (LTM, also known as the M39 mount), born in the early 20th century wasn’t designed for firmware updates, autofocus motors, or clinical perfection. It was designed for walking. For looking. For getting close enough to feel like you were part of the scene rather than observing it from a safe distance.  

[Read More]

 

 

Due to the size of the UK, we're usually not a million miles from the coast where you'll find fishing boats and tourist boats galore to photograph. Further inland, there are rivers with boats, canal and inland waterways or even water-sports centre where you can capture action-packed images as well as shots of pedalos and canoes.

 

1. What Kit Should I Choose? 

For most boat photography a standard zoom of the 35-80mm range is fine. It's usually wide enough to get the whole boat in shot and long enough to crop in on sails, hull, lifebuoy on the side or other finer detail. You may prefer a longer lens 80-200mm if the boat is further away or to shoot small detail like mini flags, portraits of crew etc. and a lens with a close focus ability is good for detail in ropes, paintwork etc. when the boat is moored.

A polarising filter is a must to ensure reflections are reduced on the paintwork and to deepen a blue sky and cut down on reflections in the water. A graduated filter is useful if the boats are set against a bright sky, although watch for darkening of the mast and upper sails on yachts and such like.

If you plan on shooting panoramic photos of harbours and marinas, pack your tripod. 

 

2. Head To A Harbour 

Harbours conjure up picturesque scenes with colourful boats offset against beautiful blue skies, reflected in the waters below.  To get this sort of picture you need a sunny day with still waters. Use a polarising filter to make the colours more saturated and choose viewpoints without too much clutter. A single boat in the foreground makes a more impressive shot than one where several boats are fighting for your attention.

 

 

3. Wait For The Tide 

As the tide goes out you can photograph moored boats grounded in mud, or on the beach. Use the mooring ropes as a lead-in up through the photo. A small aperture is needed to ensure everything from the front of the rope to the distant boat is sharp. Shots will be more dramatic if you shoot from a low angle and include a brooding sky. Use a graduated grey or ND filter to darken the sky.

 

4. Walk Along A River Bank 

If you aren't near a coastal location you may have a river running nearby that has boats on it. You may get sailing boats, small cargo boats, river authority working boats or even barges. There will usually be speed limits of around 5mph which means that you don't need to worry about panning skills or the need for ultra-fast shutter speeds to shoot boats on rivers. For more impact shoot from a low angle (at the side of the river on a low bank point is best). Try to include interesting landmarks in the background, trees or the odd building at the edge of the frame to hold the viewer inside that frame and focused on the boat.

If there's a bridge find a position where you can use that as a frame as the boat passes under, but watch the exposure. The light under the bridge will be lower than the outside so it's easy to underexpose if your meter picks up the brighter area as the important part. Switch to spot metering where possible and take a meter reading from the sidewall of the bridge and use that as the starting point.

 

 

5. Make A Canal Your Focus

Canals run through many countries too. With these, you not only have boats to photograph but also the activities surrounding them. Barges are usually hand-painted and are very colourful. They often have matching watering cans or flower pots that are crying out to be photographed.  Shoot with a telephoto and wide aperture to blur the background. Focus on small areas of paintwork for patterns and interesting window displays. Find a spot where there's a lock and then you can photograph the activity as the barge is taken to the next water level.

 

6. Interested In Watersports? 

For those who prefer a little more action consider a day out at a water-sports centre. These locations are usually on man-made lakes around the country and offer sports enthusiasts opportunities to sail, water-ski or jet-ski. It's at these locations where you can shoot the speed. For the best results, it helps if you pan with the craft.

Experiment with the shutter speed to get the right amount of motion. Follow the boats and shoot as it reaches a central point of your pan. This will blur the background but if you are keeping at the same speed as the boat as you pan it will be sharp. Try to avoid moving the camera up or down as you pan.

Some have rapids for canoeing. here a fast shutter speed can be used to get the water droplets frozen as they splash around the canoe. Take shots as the canoeist comes up from a 360 roll water will be dripping off his face and he's likely to have a great air gasping expression.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Many photographers produce carefully crafted images and still struggle to gain attention. The problem is rarely a lack of skill. In many cases, the photographs simply belong to an earlier photographic moment. 

[Read More]