Photography News

 

Interesting skies can pop up at any time of the day, at any point during the year so really it's just about keeping an eye out on the weather forecast and sticking your head out of the window to see what's happening. If you're out and find one spot you particularly like it might be worth setting up for the day to just see what happens. You never know you could end up with a series of shots that feature a brilliant sunrise and interesting cloud formations all from the same place.

 

1. What Gear Do I Need?

A wide-angle lens will help you make the most of big, interesting skies. Just keep an eye on what's creeping in at the edges of the shots as the wide view can mean less interesting parts of the sky end up in the frame. Pack tripod in the car and pocket an ND Grad to help you capture a more balanced exposure and a solid ND filter for when you're just shooting the sky.

2. Look At The Sky Before You Take Your Shot

If the sky's boring and flat don't let it dominate the scene. Instead, move the horizon up slightly so you have more foreground interest. For times when the sky really does sing do the opposite and move the horizon down, cutting more of the foreground out so all attention falls on the clouds, sunset colours or whatever other feature makes the sky stand out.

 

3. Get The Exposure Right

Getting the exposure right can be a little tricky due to the differences in contrast between the sky and ground. It could even be the ground that's a lot lighter than the ground, rather than the usual bright sky syndrome many people usually have to face. This will happen when there's a storm brewing or just after the rain's stopped falling.

When it comes to metering, most of the time you just need to focus on the highlighted areas of the image (which is usually the sky) and the darker areas will sort themselves out. However, if you find the foreground ends up too dark use exposure compensation to increase the exposure by one stop.

 

 

4. Tips On Using Filters

If you find the sky's still a little too bright fit a Graduated Neutral Density filter to even out the exposure. If it's the ground that's too light try rotating the filter so the dark part of the graduation sits over the ground.

 

5. Use Clouds In Your Shots

If you have a sky full of interesting cloud formations the key is to make sure the clouds aren't too bright. Check your histogram if you're unsure. Make sure you're ready to shoot an interesting formation as soon as you see it as they change shape quickly and if the clouds are rather breath-taking remember to lose some of the ground to make the sky your focus.

Blurring the movement of the clouds is an interesting effect that can also help create leading lines to guide the eye through the photograph. If you're shooting on a bright-ish day you'll need to fit an ND filter so you can use the slower shutter speeds without too much light reaching the sensor.

 

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Meike, a well-known brand in the photography industry, has just unveiled its latest offering: the Meike 85mm F1.4 Full Frame Auto Focus Portrait Lens. Designed for Leica, Sigma, and Panasonic L mount cameras. 

 

Technical Specifications:

• Aperture Range: F1.4 to F16
• Focal Length: 85mm
• Filter Thread: 77mm
• Diaphragm Blades: 12
• Weight: Approximately 721.8g
• Focus Mode: Auto Focus
• Minimum Focusing Distance: 0.98m
• Lens Construction: 13 elements in 8 groups
• Full Frame Angle of View:
  • Diagonal: 28.87°
  • Horizontal: 24.1°
  • Vertical: 16.14°
• APS-C Angle of View:
  • Diagonal: 19°
  • Horizontal: 16.14°
  • Vertical: 10.58°

 

Pricing and Availability:

The Meike 85mm F1.4 Auto Focus Lens is priced at USD$499 (SRP) and is now available for shipping. Whether you’re a professional photographer or an enthusiast, this lens guarantees sharp and clear image quality.

For more information and to order, visit the Meike website.

 

Signs aren't the most difficult subject in the world to photograph but there are a few things you can do to ensure your shots are perfect.

 

1. Why Photograph Signs?

Signs can be interesting and/or funny in their own right and they can give the person who's viewing your work more information about the areas you visited too. Older parts of towns will have signs that look a little more battered while newer signs which look less worn and more modern will suggest you spent quite a lot of time in newer areas of town. They also suggest if you've ventured beyond the tourist areas as signs tend to just have the language of the country you're visiting once you're over the edges of the tourist trap. These, in particular, are the signs that can be funny too due to the different language or images used to illustrate what the signs telling people. You may also find people have added their own diagrams to the signs which can often bring to odd grin or two.

 

2. Give Your Collection Direction

As well as having them as photos that sit among your collection you can use signs to organise your galleries, albums and portfolios. They make great headings that will help the viewer understand they're moving into a new collection of images.

 

 

 

3. To Zoom Or Not?

If the sign is particularly interesting or tells a story on its own without its surroundings you'll want to fill the frame with it, making use of your zoom if you can't physically get close to the sign. If you're using the sign within its surroundings you'll probably want to use a small aperture to ensure front to back sharpness. Double-check you can still see what's on the sign too as, after all, it's still our focus. Where possible, try shooting straight on to the sign too so it's easier to read.

  4. Reflections

Modern signs are more likely to have a reflective surface and when you're working with bright sunshine or flash, glare can bounce back off the sign spoiling the shot. As a result, it's usually best to turn the flash off or if you're using a flashgun leave it in the bag. If sunlight is your problem then try a different position to see if the glare goes away or return later or come back early the next day when the sun's moved positions.

  5. Shop Signs

If you come across an interesting shop sign chances are it'll be high up and shooting from the ground, looking up won't look right in the final shot so if you can, find something to stand on to give you more height or stand further back if that's not possible.

 

 

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Historical ruins such as churches, castles and abbeys decorate our countryside and seaside towns but you'll also find a few smaller, but still impressive ruins closer to home. Walls, arches and columns are still dotted around a few towns and villages which are still photogenic even if there's not much of the structure left to photograph. If you're off on your travels, have a look online and at local tourism centres to find out what ruins are near to where you're staying.

 

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

For general shots of the building and the surroundings you'll need a wide-angle lens but take your longer zoom along too for getting in close to interesting architectural detail. A tripod's handy but if you want to travel light, try taking something smaller such as a tabletop tripod and use a wall to help you steady your shot. If there are any windows left in your building of choice a polarizer will reduce reflections and the blue of the sky will be enhanced giving your image more contrast.

 

2. Do Your Homework

Many of our abbeys and other ruins are now looked after by the National Trust or English Heritage so you could be charged to walk around them, they'll have specific opening times and there may be restrictions if you want to use your images commercially so it's worth a quick look on the internet or a chat on the phone to find out everything you need to know. That way you won't waste your petrol money.

 

 

3. Take A Walk

The first thing you should do when you arrive is stretch your legs on a walk around the ruin. This will give you the chance to scout for interesting detail and look for the best angle. Don't just stand and photograph the first pile of rubble you see as this won't give your viewer any clue into what the building is or what it was used for. Look for areas that have a more definite shape and if you can, parts where nature hasn't completely taken over. Of course, some walls look great with roots growing through them and it can really emphasise how ruined the building is, so keep that in mind.

 

4. Look Closer

Look for unique parts that make the building stand out from any other and if the outside isn't very interesting you could always take a peek inside to see if the hidden details give more of an idea of what the function of the building was. If the building still has an inside watch your exposures and check your histogram before you move on to make sure it's OK. Try shooting inside out through a broken window or use a long corridor to lead the viewer's eye through the image.

Signs are a direct way to explain more about the building you're photographing and they can often be quite interesting in their own right with features such as peeling paint and rusty bolts worthy of a quick photograph.

 

5. Tall And Wide

If you're working with a particularly tall building converging verticals may be a problem but by shooting from a height this can easily be rectified. Steps, hills or shooting from another building are all ways you can correct the distortion or you could try stepping further back which gives you the opportunity to use the surroundings to give the building context.

If the grounds really do add to your image try shooting a panorama. Some cameras come with this function built-in but if yours doesn't just shoot several images moving from right to left or left to right and stitch them together with specifically designed software when you get back to your computer.
 

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© Nikon

 

Nikon has recently launched Nikon Imaging Cloud, a free cloud service that offers direct-to-camera firmware updates as well as camera-to-cloud image storage, and exclusive image recipes.  

For photographers, Nikon Imaging Cloud is an exciting new platform that's free for Nikon users and is now exclusively available for the recently launched Z6III. Photographers only need to set up a connection between their camera and Nikon Imaging Cloud once to enjoy a host of creative workflow benefits: from instant image backup and seamless transfer to third-party platforms, as well as automated firmware updates and unique colour profiles that can be downloaded straight from the cloud to the camera.

 

Summary of key features: Nikon Imaging Cloud

Direct camera-to-cloud image transfer: Nikon Imaging Cloud keeps image files safe with automatic transfers from camera to the cloud—whenever the camera is on and connected to the internet.

One-time setup: the connection between camera and Nikon Imaging Cloud only needs to be set up once. After that, whenever the camera's on, it's connected to the cloud.

30 days unlimited image storage: images are stored for free, for up to 30 days after they're first transferred.

Exclusive image recipes, straight to camera: get free colour-profile image recipes from Nikon and Nikon Creators. Up to nine recipes can be saved in the cloud at any one time: once transferred to the camera, they appear as new Picture Control profiles.

Always-easy firmware updates: set up automatic updates to have the latest firmware installed on the camera when it's charging. Or go for manual updates: a yellow dot will appear next to the tool icon in the main camera menu to signal new firmware is available.

 

Stay tuned for a first-look video and a how to set up, step-by-step video on the Nikon Europe YouTube channel, available to watch today.

For more information, visit the Nikon website.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to KapnEisbaer (Day 8 - Panoramas).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 1

Villages & Towns

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  Day 2

Underwater

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Day 3

Beachcomb

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Day 4

Any 'Colour'

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Day 5

Horizontal Lines

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Day 6

Capture Culture

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Day 7

'Summer' Theme

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Day 9

Skyscrapers

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Day 10

'Fast' Theme

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to fredsphotos (Day 24 - Portrait Landscape).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 19

Stone Circles

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  Day 20

Repetitive Patterns

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Day 21

Beach Huts

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Day 22

Carnival Photography

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Day 23

Sunsets By The Sea

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

1. Why Photograph Vertical Lines?

Lines going up and sometimes out of the frame can convey a sense of growth, strength and power as well as create interesting patterns within your images.
 

2. Shoot Portrait Or Landscape?

Switching from landscape to portrait mode lengthens the frame you're working with, emphasising the length/height of the vertical lines. Turning the camera back around to horizontal format works well when you have multiple vertical lines going through the frame as you'll be able to get more in the shot and it can help create the impression that the objects you're photographing are so tall that you can't fit them all in the frame.
 

3. Straight Lines

Make sure your vertical lines run parallel to the sides of your frame as wonky, slopping lines will mean your shot lacks impact. Keep an eye out for converging verticals too. If you find you're having a problem with them try and work from higher up to put you more in line with the object you're photographing, switch to a focal length that's not as wide or you can take the shot and adjust the photo in Photoshop or another similar piece of editing software later on.

 

 

4. Framing

Putting a vertical line in the centre of the frame will cut your image in half which does create a strong impact and maybe something you like, however most of the time it's best to position the object/shape more to the left of right of the image.
 

5. Get Repetitive

Repeating patterns and symmetry works well when you have multiple vertical lines in your shots. Just remember to have a play around with the orientation of the shot to see which way emphasises the pattern you're trying to create more.
 

6. Adds Depth

When you have lots of the same object in a line, take a line of trees along a path, for example, you can stand at the top of the path, point your lens down it and you'll see the trees, or whatever lines the edge of your shot, create depth as they vanish towards the back of your image. Just remember the items creating the vertical lines need to be of roughly the same height.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

1. Heading To The Beach?

A popular destination when on your travels abroad or even just for the weekend when the sun's showing its face in the UK is the beach which is full of photographic potential. Even though you may enjoy yourself by the sea it's not a place that's great for your camera and other photography gear. Grains of sand can get into parts of your camera it shouldn't be in and it can scratch your lens if you're not careful. A UV filter will help stop sand scratching your lens and is a less expensive option than replacing your glass. When you're not using your kit, make sure you store it in your camera bag and if you want to change lenses, try and do it off the beach and out of the wind.

If you're planning on taking a tripod and use it in the sea, make sure you wipe it down when you get home and leave it to dry. A lens cloth can also be handy for wiping sea spray off your gear.

2. Check Temperatures

If you're venturing somewhere that's going to be particularly hot then make sure your camera equipment (memory cards, batteries etc.) will operate to the best of their ability still. You can usually find information on operational limits of specific products on manufacturers' websites and in manuals.

 

3. Going Inside And Out

An air-conditioned room or vehicle may be good for you to cool down in but if you have your camera out and take it from a cool to warm environment you'll end up with a fogged-up lens as condensation will have formed. Either ensure your gear's in your bag or just wait five or ten minutes for the lens to clear. You can wipe the lens with a lens cloth, but this could cause smears and marks that'll spoil your shot so look at your lens carefully before hitting the shutter button. If moisture gets inside your lens, ensure the outside of it is dry then leave the lens to dry out before using it.

 

4. Think About You

As well as looking after your gear, don't forget to look after yourself. It may seem obvious now, but it's easy to get away with taking photos and the small things such as reapplying sunscreen and having a drink of water can be forgotten.

 

 

5. Viewing Screens

Previewing your shot on your camera's LCD screen can be difficult when outdoors in sunny conditions. You can adjust the brightness of most screens, but this doesn't always solve the problem. You can use LCD hoods (flip-up caps) that shade screens from glare and as an additional benefit, they also protect the screen too.

 

6. Avoid Hot Parts Of The Day

Again, seems obvious and it's not always easy to do as you could be on an organised excursion, for example. However, getting up early or staying out later does have it's advantages as the light's usually better and you'll be able to avoid crowds at busy tourist sites. Don't forget your lens hood if you're heading out during the day as they can help reduce the amount of light reaching your lens.

 

7. Find Some Shade

Ideally, you should not take photographs when the sun is too high in the sky, particularly for portraits as people can end up with deep shadows under their eyes and nose. If your subject's wearing a floppy hat this will shade the face, and help create the shade you need. If not, find a shaded area that won't cause the light to appear dappled. Instead, find a shaded spot where the light's more even and they won't end up squinting.

If you're photographing a family member or a stranger who's given you permission to shoot, you can try using flash to add extra light that'll even out your scene. A touch of flash will also help create catchlights in your subject's eyes but it's much easier to just position your subject so they're facing the light source and/or use a reflector to bounce the light into your shot.
 

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The Develop module in Lightroom, as the name suggests, is where you "develop" your images and to quicken the process up, there are several keyboard shortcuts available which allow the user to access and edit tools with a few key combinations - improving the speed at which you can process your images - and greatly improve your workflow.

 

As there are quite a few keyboard shortcuts we'll be breaking the list up into parts and we're starting with 19 basic but essential shortcuts for photo editing. 

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  1. Undo - Ctrl + Z 

If you want to go back a step as you don't like a particular edit, press Ctrl + Z on your keyboard to save you time moving your mouse, clicking the 'Edit' tab and selecting 'Undo'. 

 

  2. Auto Tone - Ctrl + U

If you want Lightroom to have a crack at balancing your exposure this is the tool for you. With the click of two keys on your keyboard the Exposure, Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites and Blacks sliders are adjusted by the software to create a more balanced exposure. The results can be quite good but you can always use the keyboard shortcut we've just talked about to undo the changes if you don't like them.

 

  3. Auto White Balance - Ctrl + Shift + U

Again, this allows Lightroom to adjust settings automatically for you. This time, the Temp and Tint sliders are tweaked. You may not like the way your image looks after the automatic changes but you can always press Cntrl + Z to go back a step. 

4. Increase/Decrease Selected Slider In Small Increments - Arrow Keys

When making changes to a particular adjustments option you can use your mouse to adjust the slider's position, increasing or decreasing the effect as a result. You can also write a value into the numeric box at the side of it but for more control, make use of your keyboards arrows. Left and down decrease the effect while the up and right arrows increase it. It also means your focus stays on the image rather than having to look where your mouse is positioned on the slider then flick your attention back to the image to see how it looks. 
 

5. Increase/Decrease Selected Slider In Larger Increments - Shift + Arrow Keys

This works the same way as the above controls, but the increments at which the sliders/figures can be altered is increased. 
 

6. Move Up And Down Through Basic Panel Settings - . (full stop) + , (comma)

The Basic Panel Settings section is where you'll find options to edit white balance alongside other tonal adjustments. You'll probably find you flick between a few of these options so instead of moving and clicking your mouse to select a different slider, just use the full stop and comma keys to circle through the various options available. 

7. Select White Balance Tool - W

To quickly access the white balance tool (looks like a pipette) from any module, just press 'W' and it will instantly be selected to make quick and white balance adjustments. 

8. Select The Crop Tool - R

The crop tool is a really useful function that can be accessed from any module with the 'R' key. In Lightroom, the crop tool combines as a handy rotational tool, too. Press 'R' again to deactivate this option. 

9. Select The Spot Removal Tool - Q

The Spot Removal tool has various useful features including the ability to remove dust spots and fix skin blemishes. It's found under the Histogram tab but can be quickly accessed by pressing 'Q'. 

10. Select The Adjustment Brush Tool (from any module) - K

The Adjustment Brush allows you to make a variety of changes to your images in a much more precise way. For example, you may want to brighten someone's teeth without changing the exposure of the whole shot. To access this tool quickly, press 'K'. 

  11. Select The Graduated Filter Tool - M

The Graduated Filter in Lightroom is a very useful tool for balancing exposures (simulating the effect of a graduated ND filter photographers place in front of their camera lenses) and can be selected by pressing 'M' on your keyboard. 

12. Increase/Decrease Brush Size - ] / [

These controls work with various tools in Lightroom and are a quicker way to adjust the size of the brush you're working with rather than having to move your mouse to select and move a slider. [ decreases the brush size while ] increases it. 

 

13. Increase/Decrease Brush Feathering - Shift + ] / Shift + [

To alter how hard/soft the brush you're using is you can use two commands: Shift + [ to decrease the feathering and Shift + ] to increase the feathering. 

  14. Rotate Photo - Ctrl + ] Ctrl + [

To quickly change to orientation of the image you have selected use Ctrl + ] to turn it clockwise and Ctrl + [ to turn it counterclockwise. 

15. Zoom In / Zoom Out - Ctrl +  / Ctrl  -

When you want to work on a particular area of a photo you can use Ctrl + to zoom in then press Ctrl - to zoom back out. 

16. View Before And After Left/Right - Y

To compare your edited shot with the original side-by-side press 'Y'. 

17. View Before And After Top/Bottom - Alt + Y

To compare your edited shot with the original one above and one below press 'Alt + Y'. 

 

18. View Before And After In A Split Screen - Shift + Y

To compare your edited shot with the original on a split-screen so you see the original on one half of the shot and the edited version on the other half-press 'Shift + Y'

19. Edit in Photoshop - Ctrl + E

There may be times when you need to take a photo into Photoshop to finish the edit and to do this quickly without having to save your image and reopen it again, you can press Ctrl + E in Lightroom and it'll be opened in Photoshop automatically. 

 

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Orientation names suggest that landscapes should be landscape format and portraits should be portrait format and even though there are times when the subject will dictate the orientation, there are scenes where switching to portrait will benefit the shot. 

Landscapes are very different when they are upright; they have much more depth and tend to emphasise the contrast between foreground and background.

The height of the picture allows you to make more definite use of perspective, especially if the foreground has a linear quality about it such as a field with ploughed furrows. The shape also gives you a more obvious opportunity to choose the position of your horizon. The rules of composition favour placing the horizon at a third from the top or bottom (actually three-eighths from top or bottom – which is fairly accurately the ‘golden ratio’). However, do experiment with more extreme framing to see what happens: placing the horizon right at the top or near the base of the picture.          
Depth of field in landscape is rarely a serious issue, but if you like to play with focus then the emphasis that the format places on the perspective will also give you opportunities to exploit shallow depth of field. Of course, you can do this in a horizontal picture too, but it seems to crop up more often this way round.
Do remember that not all of us get it right every time and being able to change the orientation of a picture by cropping can change the dynamic of the shot entirely so it's always worth having a look at your images once home to see if a quick crop will improve your shot.    

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© Leica Camera

 

Leica Camera AG presents the Leica D-Lux 8, a new compact camera that aligns perfectly with the brand’s philosophy of good design. The newly designed camera offers exceptional user comfort, not only in terms of its design but also in its operation. The intuitive controls, user interface, and optimised button layout, along with its ergonomically arranged controls, ensure a user-friendly experience.

The Leica D-Lux 8 offers all the essential functions for photography and video, with manual and fully automatic modes that give photographers the freedom to choose between quick snapshots and thoughtful compositions. The camera delivers impressive results even in challenging lighting conditions thanks to a powerful 4/3” CMOS sensor with 21 MP (17 MP effective), a fast Leica DC Vario-Summilux 10.9-34 f/1.7-2.8 4 ASPH. zoom lens (35mm equivalent of 24-75mm) and an attachable flash. The high-resolution touchscreen and new 2.4- megapixel OLED viewfinder with Live View function help frame the perfect shot which can be in both DNG and JPEG formats. The optical zoom and 4k video capability make the Leica DLux 8 a versatile, all-purpose camera, whilst its compact and lightweight size make it ideal for taking anywhere.

As a true all-rounder, the compact Leica D-Lux 8 seamlessly connects to the Leica FOTOS app, where images can be downloaded, edited, and shared directly to a smartphone. The app also supports DNG files and video downloads as well as remote camera operation, including optical zoom. Camera firmware updates can also be managed directly within the Leica FOTOS app.

 

© Leica Camera

 

The sophisticated design of the Leica D-Lux 8 is complemented by several matching accessories. These include leather half cases in black, cognac and olive, matching carrying and wrist straps in the colour combinations black, cognac/petrol and olive/burgundy, as well as an equipment bag and hip bag in black, completing the range of textile accessories. Technical accessories such as the auto lens cap and the new handgrip provide even more comfort when taking pictures and the screw-on soft release buttons in the colours black, brass and silver give the compact camera a unique touch.

The Leica D-Lux 8 is now available globally at all Leica Stores, the Leica Online Store, and authorised dealers. The retail price is £1,450.00 including VAT.

For more information, please visit the Leica website.

 

Thanks to modern architecture that favours glass and steel over bricks and mortar cities are full of reflections which give us an alternative way to photograph the places we live in.

 

1. Take A Walk 

You probably already know where you can find buildings with good reflective qualities in your town, but it's still worth having a walk around at different times of the day to find out when it's the best time to shoot.

 

2. Time Of The Day 

Surprisingly, with modern buildings bright sunlight can work really well so don't think your hunt for reflections is only limited to early and late parts of the day. However, weekend mornings are a good time if you don't want people in your shots but if there are people around, which may include security guards, and they ask you what you're doing just polity tell them as it's easier than having an argument and then them calling the police.

If you get a particularly spectacular sunset it's worth hanging back as the colours look really good when reflected in modern glass. The same goes for blue skies and white fluffy clouds. In fact, if you have a building that stands away from the rest of the high risers you can almost lose it in the sky.

 

3. Make The Ordinary Look Fab

Reflections are a great way of making the ordinary look extraordinary too and items we see every day such as trees, colourful signs and lamp posts suddenly turn into an abstract image of wavy lines, shapes and colour. They also give you the opportunity to photograph a well-known building in a different way.

 

 

4. Where To Stand

You can photograph the building almost straight on to produce a simple reflection or see if there's the opportunity to line up a shot where the real building meets the reflection so you can create a whole building from the two halves. The contrast of old vs new is something that's always worked well and it's not something that should be ignored here. A big, glass skyscraper reflecting an old, battered, slightly wonky pub can look really great.

 

5. Converging Vertical Issues

Don't get too hung up about converging verticals as with some modern buildings they can create an interesting composition. It may distort your reflection though so it's best to just experiment and see.

 

6. Go Wide & Add Detail 

If you do opt for using wides try giving your image a little foreground detail to fill what can be a big empty space and if you find you have a problem with glare at any time, just adjust your position until it's no longer in the shot.

 

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Summer has finally landed here in the UK (we hope we've not spoken too soon) and that means many will be heading for the beach. If your camera will be packed along with the buckets, spades and sunblock, take a look at these 5 tips so your shots of the beach look as good as the real thing.

 

1. Switch From Auto Mode

When shooting with Auto you may find your beach scenes look a little darker than you expected and that's because your camera is seeing the light coloured sand and is confusing it for a scene that's bright. As a result, it's adjusting the exposure accordingly and the sand appears dark when you preview the image.

Do make sure other areas of the shot aren't overexposed when you make your adjustment. Some camera models allow you to check for under- / over-exposed parts of the image on the display (these generally appear as coloured blinking areas). You can also use the built-in histogram to see if any peaks are to the far ends of the graph.

If you can manually control the exposure use exposure compensation and set a + figure as this should give you an image that's more true to life. You can also use the Beach and Snow setting and the camera will automatically make adjustments.

  2. Send A Digital 'Postcards'

Postcards are great but they can take forever to reach their recipient, plus they're not all that personal. Instead, why not make use of technology and send snaps of your trip straight to friends and family instead? Many compacts now have built-in WI-FI capabilities so users can either send photos straight to their smartphones which can then be shared with family and friends or some brands allow you to download apps to your camera so you can link directly to Facebook etc. to share your images with the world at the touch of a button. For those with compacts that don't have WI-FI built-in, you can purchase an EyeFi card which will quickly and reliably transfer your pro images to your computer, smartphone or tablet devices.

 

 

3. Use Beach & Sea Ready Cameras

Many cameras are now designed with coastal locations in mind. Some compacts are water-, shock-, crush- and cold-proof. Having said that, it's still worth giving your equipment a wipe down after a day of photography on the beach to remove any salt residue present. By using a 'tough' camera you'll be able to capture a few holiday/beach shots for the album that have a slightly different angle. Try capturing underwater shots or how about a half-and-half image that shows what's both under and above the waves? 

 

4. Boost Colours Of Sunsets & Sunrises

Depending on your location you may have the chance to capture a sunrise or sunset. These subjects are techniques all of their own but we will say that a quick way to give your shots more impact is by adjusting the white balance setting on your camera. Try the cloudy setting if you want colours to be more vibrant while compact users can put the sunset mode to the test.

 

5. Go For A Different Angle

Busy shots of sand-castle building action and donkey rides are great for the family album but for something a little different, why not have a go at macro photography or shoot some abstracts? If you don't have a small tripod or bean bag, use your camera bag or even a rolled-up towel for support and get down in the sand to capture the best angles. Zoom in close and use the built-in macro mode (usually a flower symbol) so the camera knows you want to use a wide aperture to throw backgrounds out of focus. Back on your feet, walk to the water's edge and instead of shooting out to sea, turn around and shoot what's behind you. People can often forget to do this when they get sucked in by the view that's out to sea and in front of them.

 

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Standing on a clifftop surveying a gorgeous vista can lift your spirits as high as the summer breeze. It doesn’t take much effort to sit still for half an hour listening to the gentle sounds of lazy waves, distant boats and calling sea birds and forget all about why you were there – to photograph a coastal panorama.

Coastal cliff top scenes or images shot from the shoreline can add that real something else to your portfolio and today’s software is very capable of helping you achieve your vision.  

Many people believe they need specialist tripod heads and other tools, but for a simple coastal vista, all you need is a correctly levelled tripod and a spirit bubble hot shoe level. It's also worth remembering that shooting manually (white balance, focus and exposure) will make life easier in the long-run as you probably won't have to spend extra time adjusting each image before stitching.

Before starting your panorama, do take a look at the foreground as if you have elements which are much closer to the camera you may want to consider moving to a different spot as the final image won't look right or stitch well unless you're using a purpose-built panoramic tripod head.

 

 

How To Capture The Perfect Panorama:

1. Ensure the tripod is set on sturdy ground. Alter the leg length for comfort, and then alter the length for a second time using the tripod's spirit bubble (most have this built-in), so that the tripod head will rotate on a horizontal plane.

2. Attach the camera with lens in either landscape or portrait orientation (depending on your view and the overall size you want your panorama to be) and check everything is level. When shot in landscape orientation, panoramas tend to be much more narrow but this can work well with some shots so do experiment. 

3. Look at the scene you are trying to capture and decide on a start and endpoint for your image.

4. Ensure the scene hasn’t got a speeding boat or the white line left from the wake that could occur in more than one image, as this will make the task of stitching the images together extremely difficult and could ruin the panorama. 

5. Quickly shoot the entire scene, making accurate movements. If you can imagine you have a protractor on the scene in front of you try to take a shot every 10-15 degrees. Always leave some overlapping (around one-third approximate overlap between each frame)  and use a remote / cable release if you have one to prevent shake as you don't want to get home to find that one out of the several images you've taken isn’t sharp. You may also want to shoot a little wider than necessary as the stitching process can often leave the end result requiring some cropping.

A dramatic seascape captured in stunning monochrome, “The Lone Fisherman” has earned ePHOTOzine’s ‘Photo of the Week’ (POTW) accolade.

This magnificent image, taken by ePz member tvhoward950, showcases the beauty of black and white photography. The dramatic contrasts and intricate details of the seascape are brought to life through expert processing. he lone fisherman, standing resolutely against the vast, tumultuous sea, serves as a poignant focal point, capturing the essence of solitude and resilience.

The textured waves and brooding sky create a powerful and evocative atmosphere. The horizon stretches endlessly, enhancing the sense of solitude and contemplation. It’s a beautifully crafted image that speaks volumes through its simplicity and depth.

All of our POTW winners will receive a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter offering memory storage across multiple devices. Plus, we will also announce our 'Photo of the Year' winner who'll win a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield in January 2024 courtesy of Samsung.

 

 

Carnival and festival season is once again upon us and these events give photographers great opportunities to photograph colourful, vibrant and exciting shots.

 

1. What Gear Do I Need:

• A compact with a longer zoom will fit easily in your pocket when moving around the busy streets or pack a DSLR combined with a zoom lens.
• Zoom lens, with a good range – means you can photograph people without getting in their faces and capture a few wide shots of the whole parade. It also means you're not carrying several lenses with you all day which can get tiring.
• Camera Bag – Don't take anything too big as it will just get in the way and make sure you have it with you at all times. You don't want to create a security threat and you don't want anyone to steal your stuff either.
• Memory – Pack spare memory cards and plenty of them. You can end up taking lots and lots of shots at events like these. It doesn't hurt to carry spare batteries, too.
• Support – There won't be room for a tripod so if you really do want some extra support take a monopod with you. Although, at big carnivals such as Notting Hill there may not be the space for one and you can end up getting in the way.

  2. Elbow Room

If you have lots of space to work in without others pushing you or getting in your shot you're very lucky. You can try to arrive very, very early to get a spot at the front of the curb and just be ready for the pushes who try to steal your spot. By arriving early, it also gives you the chance to scout around the parade route to see if you can find the participants setting up. If you do find them, it'll give you a chance to shoot a few portraits before the crowds arrive. Don't be afraid to ask people if you can shoot a few portraits as the majority of them will be happy to stop what they're doing for you and as the parade still hasn't started at that point, their hair and make-up should be perfect, too. If you don't fancy the elbow fight, try and find a spot that gives you a little height over the crowd. This could be steps leading up to a doorway or something in the street you can stand on. Either way, you'll be able to stay in this one location, photographing the parade as it passes without others knocking you or getting in your shot.

  3. Light Problems

Your kit won't like soggy, wet days but bright, sunlight won't do you any favours either as you can end up with shots full of harsh shadows and washed-out colours. Couple with those exposure problems and you can find yourself fighting to get a decent shot. Later in the afternoon the light's lower and more even but the buildings which often run along the sides of the streets the parade makes its way around will start to leave long shadows. If you have exposure problems try bracketing and add a pop of flash to fill in shadows that dance across the faces of those involved in the parade. This works particularly well when they're wearing hats and large headpieces that shade the face.

  4. Don't Miss The Action 

There will be a lot of movement for you to capture and if you want to freeze the dancers in your frame you'll need a quick shutter speed. If you want to be more creative, use slower shutter speeds to blur their movements so the speed they're moving at is exaggerated.

  5. Wide Shots

Wider shots, showing the crowds, street, stalls and parade can be interesting but try not to overrun your shot with too many focal points. If the eye doesn't have something to focus on the shot can be rather confusing and look too busy.

  6. Detail

Costumes often take hours if not days to put together so take the time to focus in on the colours and decorations on them. These close up shots work well when positioned against larger shots of the parade.

  7. Street Candids

Try shooting from the hip to see what shots of the crowd you can capture and don't forget about the food stalls, merchandise booths and even the long, long queues for the toilets which all help you create a great, overall account of the carnival.
 

 

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When it comes to photography, light is the photographer's friend but during the summer the light can be a little harsh and colours in images can end up looking blown out but there are a few ways you can prevent this from happening.

 

1. Try A Different Metering Mode

Cameras have various metering modes (Spot etc.) so you can pick the one that produces the best result when shooting in situations where there are bright sunlight and shadows to deal with. When working against a strong backlight (such as a bright sky and sand at the beach) use spot metering to ensure your portraits are correctly exposed.

 

2. Add A Little Flash

It doesn't matter if you're a compact user with a camera that has a built-in flash or are a DSLR owner who fits a flashgun to your camera's hot shoe, both light sources can come in useful when shooting portraits in the summer sunlight. Why? Well, faces can end up with deep shadows on them, particularly under the nose and chin, so by setting your flash to fire, a splash of light will illuminate your subject's face and remove unattractive shadows.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

3. Use Exposure Compensation

In bright situations, cameras can be fooled and shots can end up looking underexposed as the camera’s exposure system attempts to create a mid-tone exposure. To stop this, have a look through your camera's menu for the exposure compensation feature. By using this mode you'll be able to set a + or - exposure, depending on the camera's results, and produce an image that's correctly exposed. For example,  if the sand in a seaside landscape looks darker then it is, set a + exposure compensation. Various stops are available so it's worth shooting a few images to ensure you get the results you require.

 

4. Make The Most Of Scene Modes

Try using your compact's (Beach & Snow) Scene Mode to capture correctly exposed images when on the beach. With this mode, the exposure is automatically compensated so the sand doesn't appear underexposed.

 

5. Use A Reflector

If you think flash is a little harsh for your summer portraits you can use a reflector to bounce extra light into your images. You can purchase purpose-built models, but home-made reflectors can work just as well. A bit of white card and foil will help you add light to shadows, resulting in a more pleasing portrait. 
 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

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    1. Use The Sky

A popular shot to capture when you're photographing beach huts is to use a wide-angle lens to get a full line of these colourful structures in the frame. If you plan on doing this, try to get a large expanse of sky in the shot too. Be careful if you're using a particularly wide lens as you can end up with objects creeping into frame that you didn't want to capture and keep an eye on your exposure.

Most of the time you'll find the sky will come out lighter than the foreground and you may need to use a graduated ND filter to balance the light levels in the shot. In some cases, you might even find the foreground to be brighter than the sky, such as when there's a storm brewing behind the huts. The highlight detail is our main focus so make sure you meter from this (usually the sky) and leave the shadow areas to their own devices. If you find your foreground looks a little dull after doing this try using +1EV and reshoot. For shots where the sky's really interesting try lining the roofs up along the bottom of the frame.

 

2. Get In Close

An alternative option is to move in close for a more abstract viewpoint. You won't have to move your feet very far to find ropes, padlocks, panels, signs, ornaments, cobwebs etc. You could even shoot a few photos of peeling paint and rust which can be used as textures in other shots. If you want to be more focused pick a theme, colours work well and shoot it. This isn't something that just has to be restricted to one day either as you can build your collection up over a few weeks then combine them to make an interesting piece of wall art.

Make sure you move in close and concentrate on balancing the shot so the composition works. You can shoot close up shots on any days, but overcast ones are easier to work in, giving you a more balanced look to the tonal range.

 

3. Include People

If the owners of the beach huts are home, ask if you can shoot a few portraits of them. For more candid shots try working further away with a wider lens so you can look like you're photographing something else but still capture the person you want in the frame. If the huts are open you could also ask if you could shoot a few shots inside them as you'll find some that are well decorated and full of trinkets or other items worth a quick shot for the album.

 

4. Out Of Season

When summer ends head back to the coast when everything is boarded up as the tired exteriors and the peeling paintwork on the lonely beach huts will still make interesting photographic subjects even if there's not much going on in the rest of the seaside town.

Winter light is low and will give colourful beach huts more punch. If you're lucky to visit on a sunny day, a blue sky will lift a shot taken at the coast during winter while a sky full of rain will help emphasis the sense of loneliness and abandonment.

 

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When shooting travel images, as well as showing people back home that you had a really great time and that it was sunny every day, try capturing shots that convey a sense of place and culture as well. By doing so you'll have a much more memorable record of your trip and you should gain a collection of shots which are much more varied. To help you out, here are a few pointers that should help you improve your travel photography.

 

1. Do Your Research

 

If you're going on holiday to shoot photos every day rather than spending time sitting by the pool or building sandcastles on the beach with your kids you need to choose your location and work out when would be the best time to visit. For example, some locations have a monsoon season or there will be times when temperatures are way too high for visitors to be out, wandering around with cameras. By doing your research before you arrive will save you time and also allow you to plan correctly for the weather, terrain etc. you'll be facing.

You can take a look in online galleries to see where another photographer's visited and review travel guides so you can make a note of the places you want to visit and the type of images you want to create.

The more information you collect before your trip, the more productive you'll find it to be. In fact, if you make a shooting plan or note down a few ideas in a notebook you can take the notes with you so you're not always searching for shooting suggestions. Of course, there will be tourist information centres, maps and reps you can find more information from once you arrive at your chosen destination.

 

2. It's In The Details

 

As well as shooting sweeping vistas and portraits, use your zoom to shoot frame-filling, close-ups of detail. These detailed shots will help sum-up the essence of the location you're shooting in and you're more likely to capture something unique if you focus your attention on smaller items and detail rather than wider, popular shots. Small details such as spices on a market stall or strings of chillies drying in the sun are often very colourful and make interesting close-up subjects.

 

3. How Many Shots?

 

If you enjoy visiting new locations every year it'll probably be a while before you return to the same location so make sure you shoot plenty. However, we don't mean just point and click as you still need to think about good composition etc. Just remember to try different angles of the same subject and always have your camera ready to shoot the unexpected.

 

4. Don't Overlook Landmarks

 

Many places around the world have well-known landmarks that when photographed will instantly tell the person who's looking at your photograph where you went on your week off. It's always worth taking a shot or two of these landmarks during your break but do look for new ways to shoot them. This could include getting closer, shooting a panorama or using crowds of tourists to add another level of interest to your shot.

 

5. Capture Culture

 

Get away from main shopping and tourist areas and you'll often find the culture of the country/town becomes more prominent. Do be careful though and keep an eye on your gear as you will stand out and tourists do sometimes get targeted by thieves.

See if there are any festivals, ceremonies or other events happening that'll be worth photographing. You'll be able to capture lively shots and if you shoot with a telephoto lens, you'll be able to throw backgrounds out of focus more easily which should blur tourists and other distractions, allowing all attention to stay with your subject.

 

6. Photograph People

 

Even though candid shots of people in crowds, at work etc. do have a place, generally, it's advised and polite to ask permission before you take a photo of a stranger. Having said that, when people play a minor part in your image asking permission to shoot, particularly if it's a large crowd, can be impossible as there are just too many people.

If language is a barrier try smiling and pointing to your camera you should soon have a quick nod or shake of the head in response.

Always give your subject eye contact when you're talking to them between shots, smile and don't forget your manners. Try to learn what hello, please and thank you are in the language of the country you're visiting and if your subject looks uncomfortable when you start taking photographs, it is usually just best to stop and move on to something else as some people will say yes just to be polite when really they'd prefer to hide from your lens. If you have a willing subject who tenses up and becomes a little too rigid when you put the camera to your eye take the shot any way then quickly snap another when they think you've finished capturing a moment when they're more relaxed.

Once you've got your shot(s) be polite and show your subject the results. Just be wary of some people who'll expect a tip for helping you out. You can find out how much people generally ask for in tips before heading out on the street and you can barter if you think the fee is too high.

7. Time Of Day

 

Shooting early morning or later in the evening will give you the best light for landscapes and architectural shots. In a morning, the sun is at a lower angle so your shots won't have large, deep shadows running through them. There will be fewer people around at this time too as many holidaymakers enjoy staying in bed a little longer when they are away. Don't dismiss shooting a few shots of a busy beach though as a scene where no sand can be seen because of towels and deckchairs will be just as interesting.