Photography News

 

Manfrotto is renowned as the market leader when it comes to premium quality camera and video support with its extensive range of tripods, monopods, lighting stands and heads. June 2025 saw the introduction of the Manfrotto ONE Hybrid tripod, its innovative design concept aimed at photo and video creators. Its XTEND leg locks allowed fast set-up, there was an integrated head levelling mechanism and heads could be swapped quickly and securely with its XCHANGE system. Add the option of aluminium or carbon-fibre legs and the Manfrotto ONE Hybrid is a support for the busy content creator.

A year on, the Manfrotto ONE Photo has been unveiled. Sharing the same build quality and taking key features such as the XTEND leg locks from the Hybrid, the ONE Photo is targeted at still photographers who demand high level stability but without compromising set-up speed and versatility.

 

Quick Verdict

The ONE Photo is a beautifully engineered and thoughtfully designed tripod, which is no more than you would expect from Manfrotto, the master of imaging supports. Deployment is rapid thanks to the XTEND leg locks, the Q90 mechanism adds extra versatility and rigidity is incredibly impressive.

 

+ Pros

• Large, easy to use XTEND leg locks
• Quick deployment even when wearing gloves
• Very, very stable
• Good maximum working height
• Q90 mechanism
• Legs splay for super-low shooting
• XCHANGE system useful for hybrid shooters

 

- Cons

• Weight – not ideal for travelling or for long walks 
• Aluminium option only
• No case or carrying strap supplied

 

 

 

Grip and twist the ONE’s spider when it’s set up and there is barely any movement. It’s impressively sturdy.

 

Manfrotto ONE Key Features & specifications

• Three leg sections
• Aluminium legs
• 20°, 50°, 81.5° leg angles
• XTEND flip leg locks
• Max height 164cm, with XPRO Ball head 175.4cm 
• Max height (centre column down) 134cm, with XPRO Ball head 145.4cm
• One bubble level
• Min height 10cm
• Closed length 65.5cm, with XPRO Ball head 76.8cm
• 12kg payload 
• 7kg payload with Q90 used
• Easy Link compatible
• Rubber or spiked feet
• Legs only weigh 3.1kg, with XPRO Ball head 3.6kg
• Manfrotto.com

 

Manfrotto ONE Photo Features

The Manfrotto ONE Photo is a tripod designed for fast set-up but without compromising stability and versatility. It’s common for tripod legs to have a round profile but the ONE Photo is different, and its aluminium legs have been designed with maximum stiffness and rigidity in mind. Another innovation is the XTEND leg lock mechanism which deploys and locks all leg sections in one action. At the end of each leg, there is the option of rubber and spiked feet.

The ONE Photo is equipped with Manfrotto’s Q90 mechanism which means the centre column can be quickly reconfigured to give a shooting down (or up) position so ideal for flatlays, still-life and macro work. Used in this manner, the maximum payload rating is 7kg so no problem with heavy camera/lens combinations.

This tripod’s legs can be set to three angles including 81.5° which means it’s possible to achieve a low camera position. With the column set at right angles using the Q90 mechanism and the XPRO Ball head fitted, the camera platform in horizontal alignment was just 18cm off the ground. The centre column is one section and while it can be removed, there is no short column option currently available.

At the other extreme, the ONE Photo with the XPRO Ball head reaches a very useful camera platform height of 145cm with the centre column down and 175cm with the centre column extended. Camera steadiness remains impressive even with the centre column fully up.

 

 

The ONE Photo boasts Manfrotto’s Q90 feature making overhead (astro, architecture) or downward (flatlays, macro) shooting easy.

 

A key point of difference between the ONE Hybrid and the ONE Photo is that the latter does not have the integrated quick release XCHANGE mechanism which allows quick head swapping. However, that function is available with the XCHANGE Quick Release System which costs £39 and comes with a quick release plate. For head swapping, you will need an extra release plate for the second head and that costs £15.95. 

 

Removing the rubber feet, which takes a little effort, reveals small, spiked feet.

 

Set-up technique one: Hold the tripod at the required height, with or without the camera mounted, splay the legs if you prefer, release the leg locks and each leg will drop down into position. Lock the legs and you’re ready to shoot.

 

Set-up technique two: rest the ONE on the ground, release the XTEND locks and lift the camera or tripod head to the required height. The legs stay in place as you do this, so lock the legs and you’re done.

  Manfrotto ONE Photo Handling and performance

To set-up a traditional tripod means operating the twist-grips or lever leg locks, pulling out the legs to give the required height and then tightening each lock in turn. It’s a way of working that has proved itself over time. With the XTEND system, you need to revise your approach because if you grip the tripod and unlock the legs as you would normally, the legs just slide out and you have no control. 

With the ONE Photo, I found two ways of working. One was to hold the tripod at the required height with the legs splayed and then open the XTEND locks. The legs just slide out thanks to gravity, and you just lock them in place. The other option is to put the ONE on the ground with the legs open, undo the XTEND locks and lift the camera or tripod head to the required height before locking the legs. Both methods work well and are much faster than the traditional method. Fine-tuning leg length to level the tripod is equally quick and easy.

Once deployed, the ONE Photo is solid. Gripping a tripod’s spider and firmly twisting it usually reveals a degree of movement or whip on most models but doing the same with the ONE Photo shows barely any flex even with the tripod fully extended.

For this review, the ONE Photo came with the XPRO Ball head in the box, but I also got the XPRO 3-way head for this review, so I got the chance to try head swapping with the XCHANGE system. I found it worked well and the automated locking action was reliable and secure and the process can even be done single-handed if you need to. 

Swap tripod heads quickly and safely with the XCHANGE system. The inset image shows the locking flanges of the XCHANGE head more clearly.

 

The XCHANGE base simply screws on to the tripod’s 3/8in thread and the plate screws onto the head. To mount the head, just offer it up to the base and push down, and the locking mechanism of the XCHANGE base automatically activates to secure the head. To remove the head, slide the locking lever, rotate the base anticlockwise and the head lifts from the base. 

To test stability, I tried the ONE Photo with a Sony A1 II and 400-800mm zoom, a combination that weighs in at 3.2kg, and a Fujifilm GFX100S with a 100-200mm zoom. The latter weighs around 2kg, so well within the payload capacity of this tripod. But fitted with a filter system, this combination is very susceptible to wind judder and camera shake during long exposures is a serious risk on mildly breezy days even when fixed to a high-end carbon fibre tripod with a pro standard ball head. 

I took shots on both including a couple of four minute exposures on the Fujifilm mounted on the ONE Photo at its full standing height with the centre column down. To be fair, during those long exposures, the summer breeze wasn’t too stiff, but I had no problem getting perfectly sharp shots.

 

The XTEND flip leg locks are big making them easy to grip even if you’re wearing gloves and are reassuringly positive in use.

 

Value for money

Manfrotto has an extensive line-up of tripods, and the ONE Photo is one of the more expensive photo models in the range. However, given the tripod’s build quality, slick handling and versatility, I’d rate it as very good value for money. If you already own a good quality head, the ONE Photo legs costs £269, which is a very respectable price for a tripod of this quality. If you prefer, the ONE Photo is available with either the XPRO 3-Way head or the XPRO Ball head, both at £399.

Of course, this high level of stability and rigidness comes at a price and in this case, it’s weight and the ONE Photo with XPRO Ball head is a little over 3.6kg, which lessens its appeal as a location or travel tripod.

The Manfrotto ONE Photo is a first-rate and versatile tripod.

 

Manfrotto ONE Photo Verdict

The Manfrotto ONE Photo is a seriously substantial piece of kit and not one for the half-hearted tripod user. However, if your photography demands ultimate stability and you want to squeeze every last drop of quality from your high megapixel camera and expensive lenses, the ONE Photo is in a league of its own. Not only is the ONE Photo a rock-solid camera support, its XTEND locking legs make it quick to deploy and Q90 column mechanism opens up more photo opportunities. On the downside, it’s weighty and big so more suited to home or studio use, or if you’re working close to the car.

The XCHANGE system is worth a mention too. It works well and speeds up head swapping without compromising security, so if you do need to move from a photo set-up to a video one quickly, this device does the job reliably.

 

The Manfrotto ONE Photo comes as legs only or with the XPRO 3-Way head (left) or XPRO Ball head for £399.

 

Manfrotto ONE Photo Pros

• Large, easy to use XTEND leg locks
• Quick deployment even when wearing gloves
• Very, very stable
• Good maximum working height
• Q90 mechanism
• Legs splay for super-low shooting
• XCHANGE system useful for hybrid shooters

 

Manfrotto ONE Photo Cons

• Weight – not ideal for travelling or for long walks 
• Aluminium option only
• No case or carrying strap supplied

 

 

[REVIEW_FOOTER]R_features=4.5|R_handling=4.5|R_performance=5|R_value=4.5|R_overall=5|A_level=5|A_text=The Manfrotto ONE Photo is a seriously capable tripod so if you need no-compromise stability, you have got to give it a look.|E_id=8016[/REVIEW_FOOTER]

 

1. What Gear Do I Need?

 

• Tripod – If you're working your way around the outside of the structure you'll need a light tripod, one with a spirit level will help.
• Wide-angle lens – Get all of the castle in one shot. Take a look at our 'top wide-angle lenses' for recommendations. 
• Longer lenses – Focus in on detail or if the castles further away, use the long reach to zoom in on the castle so it fills the frame.
• Camera bag – You need a bag that will fit all of your kit but not get you stuck when you're trying to navigate small stairwells.
• ND graduated filter – Help balance exposures when you're shooting wide, scenic views.

 

2. Do Your Research

Pre-planning can mean the difference between a successful day of shooting and only returning home with a handful of shots because you spent most of the day walking around trying to find good spots to shoot from. Have a look at how other photographers have shot the castle you're visiting. You should find plenty of advice online but if you're still stuck for ideas, have a quick look in the castle's gift shop for postcards as these should give you plenty of ideas on what angles work and won't don't.

 

3. Watch Those Verticals

If you're shooting uphill or are closer to the castle walls and are shooting up it can end up looking like the walls are sloping in on your final shot. You can buy lenses specifically designed to stop this, but they're expensive so unless you're going to shoot architecture professionally, or on a more regular basis, you're better off just correcting the shot in Photoshop after. You can also find a higher spot to shoot from and there should be plenty of windows or tops of towers you can take your photos from.

4. Include The Surroundings Or Shoot Up Close?

If the castle has particularly majestic surroundings include it but if your castle now sits surrounded by more modern buildings, crop in. For sites where there are only a few walls left standing try some close-up photography. Look for walls that are full of cracks and moss as you'll get a few shots for your texture collection.

 

 

5. Make A Frame

You won't be short of windows, doorways and arches that can be turned into frames for your photos. Just remember to include your 'frame' at the edge of the photo and, where possible, shoot straight on so your frame doesn't sit wonkily.
 

6. Lead The Eye In

Bridges over moats and corridors which seem to stretch on forever can be used to lead the viewer's eye from one point of the shot to another. If they're several archways or columns that line the corridor walls even better as they often form symmetrical patterns that will add further interest to your shot.
 

7. Inside The Castle 

If you can take your tripod inside the castle do as the darker conditions will mean you need longer shutter speeds and you can get shake in your images with you take them hand-held. 

Stairs curving up and around with the old walls make great subjects but as there's very little light, you may want to try shooting several shots at different exposures and merging them together once you're home. For more tips on HDR take a look at our previous article: HDR Tips.

If it's a particularly busy day longer shutter speeds can help 'remove' some of the tourists from your shot. Or, you could try using a shutter speed that turns the visitor's movement into ghost-like streaks for a more abstract approach.
 

8. Photograph People

At larger castles such as Warwick, you'll find people in costumes and there are often days when special events such as jousting take place. For tips on photographing re-enactments take a look at our previous articles on jousting and living museums.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Three Lightroom Classic editing tricks can quietly transform a photo from flat to finished. These are the kind of layered, mask-based techniques that separate a polished edit from one that just looks "processed." 

[Read More]

Lighting a home studio well is harder than most people expect, and the gap between flat, lifeless footage and something that actually looks intentional usually comes down to a few decisions. Getting those decisions right early saves you from buying gear you don't need and reworking your setup from scratch later. 

[Read More]

Feeling like your life isn't interesting enough to photograph is one of the most common reasons people stop shooting. It's also one of the most fixable. 

[Read More]

The 135mm autofocus lens market has gotten crowded fast, with options from Samyang, Viltrox, and Sigma all competing for your attention on Sony E-mount, Nikon Z-mount, and L-mount. The 7Artisans 135mm f/1.8 enters that field with the lowest MSRP of the group at $689, but price alone isn't enough to stand out when the competition has had years to mature. 

[Read More]

Photographers have been learning from painting for decades, but only from one half of it. Light, composition, proportion, tonal control — everything that strengthens representation has been absorbed and taught. And that is where the study usually stops. The moment painting stopped depending on the subject, photography largely stopped following it. 

[Read More]

 

Going on holiday with your family and your camera isn't the same as going on a photographic holiday. So here are a few tips on how you can still go out and enjoy your photography but keep the peace with your family at the same time:

 

1. Pick The Right Gear

A DSLR and a variety of lenses packed in a case are OK for photographic holidays but it can get a little heavy when you're heading out with bags of sun cream, hats, buckets and spades, too. If you want to use a DSLR try fitting a zoom lens that gives you a variety of focal lengths in one lens or pocket a compact or mirrorless camera so you can still capture the shots you want but in a less obtrusive way. Point-and-shoot cameras are easier to pack too as they don't take up too much room and many can fit in a pocket so can be accessed quickly if needs be.

 

2. Balance Your Time

Just because you're on holiday with your family doesn't mean you can't enjoy a few hours here and there taking photographs. It helps if you have an understanding partner, friends or whoever is travelling with you, as they can watch the children for half an hour while you take your photos. Try heading out while everyone else is still sleeping at sunrise, for example, but don't get too carried away with your photo taking as, after all, you're on a family holiday and not a photographic one.

 

3. Allocate Time

Set yourself certain times to go and enjoy your photography. Plan these into the trip so your family know about them to save arguments and set time restraints so you don't find yourself vanishing for a day with your camera. By doing so, you'll find you'll think more about what and how you're going to photograph your chosen subject and your hobby will also annoy your family less.

 

 

4. Have A Plan

Doing your research and making a plan will mean you can put the locations and subjects that really interest you at the top of your 'to do' list. Then if you have to forget about some of your lists, you'll have the important ones, hopefully, already in the bag. Having ideas on what angles work, what don't and what time of day your chosen location looks its best will stop you making wasted journeys and using the time that you could have spent playing around in the pool or on the beach.

 

5. Visit Places You All Want To Go

A little bit of compromise goes a long way so if you want to go on some day trips, pick ones which you'll all enjoy. That way you'll be able to go out and take some photos while the rest of the family will still be entertained.

 

 

6. Get Your Family Involved

See if you can get them taking photographs with you and if that fails, make them your main subject for most of your shots. This doesn't mean you have to pose them all the time though.

 

7. Be More Relaxed About Your Photography

You'll probably find that the process of you putting a tripod up then working out every setting to make sure your shot's as perfect as it can be is what your family get bored of waiting around for so instead of always worrying about everything having to be just right, work a little off the cuff to get fewer complaints. Try shooting from the hip or instead of posing your family every time you want to photograph them, shoot some candids of them eating ice cream and playing in the sand. By working more spontaneously, you'll probably find you'll have fewer complaints.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|336842|336842_1781023210.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to AdventureDriver (Day 9 - 'Outdoor Full-Length Portraits').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 10

River

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|345095|345095_1781103947.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 11

Patterns & Shapes

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|140161|3861975[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 12

People In Groups/Crowds

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|128530|128530_1781272645.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 13

Interesting Angle Theme

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|247407|3893253[/COMMENT_IMG]

  Day 14

Event Photography

[COMMENT_IMG]direct|44488|44488_1781427529.jpg[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

Day 15

Plane

[COMMENT_IMG]portfolio|1990|3142431[/COMMENT_IMG]

 

You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

During the summer, there are all sorts of agricultural events held all around the country and they are great occasions to capture some good images. There are the events themselves, the animals and the people to photograph. It is a great day out too. Usually, there are also plenty of stalls to browse around so there are chances to spend a few quid too.

 

1. Gear Choices

Your camera and a couple of lenses is a perfect outfit, ie pairing of a standard zoom and a telephoto zoom would be a very versatile combination. If you want to travel light, a camera and a superzoom are worth a thought. If you want to travel lighter still, take a zoom compact or one of the mirrorless style cameras.

 

2. Light Can Be Tricky

With luck, the sun will be shining but that can mean exposure and contrast problems. You might find that your camera slightly under and overexposes in contrasty light, so a few test shots to start with is a good idea. If, for example, you find that your camera consistently leans towards overexposure, set -0.3 EV, -0.7EV or even -1EV on your camera so get a more balanced exposure.

 

3. Try Capturing Images In RAW 

Shooting in RAW format is a good idea too, so if you do have exposure or contrast problems they can be controlled during the RAW workflow process. RAW conversion software allows you to adjust exposure, brightness and contrast very easily – and you can do it non-destructively.

 

4. Arrive In Plenty Of Time

For the events, you might have to find a spot early if you do not want to be shooting over people's heads. Often, there is plenty of room to find a decent viewpoint where you can get an unhindered view. Depending on the show, you might find displays of shire horses, carriage driving, dog agility and much more. The dog agility events are great fun to photograph, firstly because there is plenty of action but also there are brilliant candid moments of the owners to be photographed too. Just find yourself a good spot - close to the see-saw, weave poles or a fence - and just get ready for some frenetic action.
 

5. Messy Backgrounds Spoil Shots

Some events and participants are more photogenic than others, but one common problem you may experience is messy backgrounds and you may find avoiding them quite challenging. Stripey or white marquees, enclosures and fellow visitors can all spoil your shots so keep an eye on the background and use your feet and zoom lens to exclude as much clutter as possible. Using your telephoto lens at wide apertures for shallow depth-of-field is a technique to try to minimize bold subjects coming out too sharp.

 

6. Don't Forget Close-Ups And Detail

Concentrating on details within the scene is another photographic approach to consider. Close-ups of shire horses decked out on their finery can look excellent, just take care with exposure. Very dark horses can cause overexposure so appear lighter than they are, while light/white horses can cause underexposure and appear grey. Just use exposure compensation to ensure a good result.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Every photographer makes these. The difference between someone who improves fast and someone who plateaus isn't talent; it's how quickly they stop repeating the same fifteen errors. None of these require new gear or more money to fix. Most take a single setting change or a shift in habit.  

If you want the structured version of these fundamentals in one place, Photography 101 walks through the camera and editing basics from the ground up. Here they are, each with the fastest correction.

[Read More]

This lens is the perfect example of why one should not judge a lens by its cover. While it may seem like any other budget fast prime, it offers a real, visible difference for your images.

 

[Read More]

The Fstoppers community is brimming with creative vision and talent. Every day, we comb through your work, looking for images to feature as the Photo of the Day or simply to admire your creativity and technical prowess. In 2026, we're featuring a new photographer every month, whose portfolio represents both stellar photographic achievement and a high level of involvement within the Fstoppers community. 

[Read More]

“What style do you shoot in?” or “I see a lot of [insert any photographer's name here] in your work.” These types of questions and statements, I'm sure, have been presented to you, and if you've ever wondered why, we can find out together. 

[Read More]

Terminator 2: Judgment Day turns 35 this year, and it still looks better than most action films being made right now. The reason isn't budget or nostalgia. It's a set of deliberate filmmaking decisions that hold up under scrutiny. 

[Read More]

Lighting is the single biggest variable that separates wedding photos that look polished from ones that just look okay. Unlike studio work, weddings give you no guarantees: harsh midday sun, deep shade, candle-lit receptions, and everything in between can all show up in a single day. 

[Read More]

Seven photographers have been named Hasselblad Masters for 2026, chosen out of 70 finalists that the competition pulled from a pool exceeding 108,000 submissions sent in from 160 countries and regions. The seven categories this year were Landscape, Architecture, Portrait, Art, Street, Wildlife, and Project//21, with one winner in each. 

[Read More]

Ultrawide lenses used to cost a fortune. A full frame 14mm f/2.8 from Canon or Nikon ran around $1,500 just over a decade ago, which put serious glass out of reach for a lot of people. Budget manual focus alternatives have changed that equation, and the Brightin Star 14mm f/2.8 is one of the most affordable yet, coming in at around $279. 

[Read More]

The Panasonic Lumix GX8 is a Micro 4/3 camera, and that small sensor size gives it one genuinely unusual advantage: you can mount almost any lens ever made on it, from almost any manufacturer, as long as you have the right adapter. 

[Read More]

 

If you're planning a day-trip at the coast you don't have to take your DSLR and a bag full of lenses to get good close-up shots. The majority of compact cameras and smartphones now have macro modes, some better than others, which can produce good results. The cameras are also smaller and usually lighter too making them easier to carry when you have arms full of buckets, spades and seaside treats. Plus, only shooting macro/close up shots really makes you stop and think about what you can photograph.

  1. Macro Mode

Find your camera's shooting modes and select the Macro Mode. This is generally the one that looks like a flower and by selecting it, your camera will know you'll be working with objects close to the lens and it will also use a larger aperture so the background's out of focus. How close you can focus to your subject will depend on the camera you're working with as they all have various close focus distances.
 

2. Tripod

Even if you're using a point-and-shoot camera using a tripod for close-up/macro work is a sensible idea. When you're working at close focusing distances any shake/movement is amplified and as a result, is more noticeable. As mentioned above, a tripod will reduce the chances of shake spoiling your shot and you'll be forced to slow down, so you think more about the shot you're trying to produce. 

 

3. Self Timer

Even though you're using a tripod, when you press the shutter button it can shake the camera so use your compact's self-timer to stop movement spoiling your shot.
 

4. Focus

It may sound obvious but do make sure the right part of your shot's in focus. If your compact has the option, switch to manual focus to have more control over what's sharp and what isn't. Once you've taken your shot, use your screen to view the image, zooming in to make sure all the bits that need to be sharp are.
 

5. Backgrounds

If possible, use a simple background that's not cluttered. This is easy on the beach when you can use the sand or position yourself so you're facing out to sea and use the water/sky as your backdrop. In busier locations such as harbours, this is a little more tricky to do but by putting space between your subject and the background it'll be easier for the camera to throw the background out of focus. You could also create your own background with a piece of card or even a jacket. 

6. Extra Light

Flash may seem the obvious way to go but as the flash on compact cameras is fixed, it's a bit too direct and can add too much light to the scene. If your camera allows it, you can dial down the flash but most of the time you'll be better off just shooting when there's plenty of natural light around. You can always use a reflector to direct the light and use a piece of card to shield your subject if you find there's too much light in the scene.

  7. Subject Choices

• Shells
• Pebbles
• Patterns/footprints in the sand
• Crabs
• Seaweed
• Interesting flotsam
• Water bubbles
• Chipped/cracked paint on boats
• Rust on railings
• Bolts
• Patterns in wood 
• Get in close to lobster pots and ropes to photograph the patterns
• Sticks of rock
• Jars of old-fashioned sweets

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition