Photography News

The Edinburgh Festival Fringe is a huge arts festival that runs in August and even though you need tickets for many of the shows at the Fringe, you can visit the Royal Mile for free where you'll find plenty of street entertainers you can capture images of.

Due to the event's popularity and the variety of things on offer to photograph, you will see all sorts of photographic approaches so there's not really hard-and-fast rules to follow more like guidelines that'll help you capture the best of what the Fringe has to offer. Also, although taking photos is fun do remember that you're actually there to enjoy yourself so do take your eye away from the viewfinder occasionally and just enjoy the atmosphere.

 

Photo by Cattyal

 

1. Lens Choices 

A standard zoom is perfect for the sort of distances you'll be taking photos from. If you own a telezoom do take it, however, someone will more than likely get in the way if you're using a longer lens so use it for tightly-cropped shots rather than trying to get a shot from a distance. Wides can work but make the point of getting in close to fill the frame and accept that you are going to get fussy backgrounds.

 

2. Know Where You Are Going

Pick up a guide as it lists times as well as locations of where things are happening, plus if it's your first time visiting, there's usually a handy map included to help you find your way. The best location is on the Royal Mile where you get street performers and artists promoting their shows with mini-performances.

 

3. Be Patient 

It does get bustling with visitors and performers coming and going all day but hang around for long enough and you will find something to aim your lens at.

 

4. Take Care 

Due to how busy the Royal Mile gets remember to take care of your possessions and don't leave anything unattended. It can also get hot at this time of year, so remember to keep hydrated and you'll probably encounter a sudden downpour, too so keep a brolly handy.

 

Photo by  Cattyal

 

5. Payment For Performance 

Some performers would like a payment for posing and it is up to you if you want to make a contribution. Some of the shows are excellent and you might feel that a sample of enjoyable street theatre is worth some small change.

 

6. Be Polite 

As they're performing in public, on the street they tend to not mind you photographing them. However, if the opportunity arrives, it is always polite to ask them if it's OK to take a few shots. 

 

7. Capture Close-Ups 

As they're passionate about their performance you'll have plenty of interesting expressions and movements to photograph so get in close if the opportunity unfolds.

 

8. Crowd Or No Crowd? 

If there's a big crowd or the street they're on is particularly cluttered hide it by cropping in close to the performer. However, if the crowd's having a particularly good time, having them in the shot can work well in an image with the performer. Alternatively, just capture an image of the spectators watching the show. 

 

Photo by David Pritchard

9. Speed & Position 

Shoot quickly, watch the background and move around to explore different camera angles.

 

10. Different Perspective 

Performance shots are great but don't overlook capturing shots of performers scooping up change from guitar cases or moving position to set-up for the next part of their act.

 

11. Continuous Shooting & Focus 

Switch to continuous shooting but don't be tempted to constantly machine-gun away. Instead, take the time to watch for the key moments that are worth capturing. Continuous focusing will help you maintain focus on the street performers.

 

12. Shutter Priority 

Consider using Shutter Priority so you can decide how much you freeze / add motion blur to action shots. To add crowd movement to your shot you'll need a slower shutter speed and a support. Tripods take up too much space so use a monopod or even your camera bag as a support. Use a small aperture and low ISO to get the slower speeds you need. You may need to experiment to find the exact shutter speed that works but the beauty of digital means you can check the screen, adjust and take another shot.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

The Leica M has stayed in production for over 70 years, and the rangefinder inside a 2026 model works almost exactly like the one Leica shipped in 1954. That kind of stubbornness runs against every other camera company, all of which abandoned the rangefinder for SLRs, then mirrorless.

 

[Read More]

Overpacking your camera bag and cramming five cities into a week are the two habits that quietly wreck a photography trip. Both feel productive while you plan them, and both leave you exhausted and short on the shots you actually wanted.

 

[Read More]

An $89 full-frame autofocus 50mm sounds like a typo, yet the TT Artisan 50mm f/1.8 Neo is real, and it does exactly what a 50mm should do. 

 

[Read More]

Every serious hobby eventually turns into a chore, and photography is no different. When you've come home empty-handed four or five outings in a row, the little voice telling you to quit gets loud, and beating it takes more than better planning.

 

[Read More]

A man in a full Darth Vader costume walked up to the microphone at a San Diego city council committee meeting and delivered a sarcastic endorsement of the Flock surveillance camera network. His identity was never revealed, and the council simply called out "Darth Vader?" before he took the podium in a black helmet and cape.

 

[Read More]

 

The basic function of a tripod

First, let's quickly examine what a tripod will do for us. First and foremost, it supports our camera, attached lens, and some of the other gear, like a flash unit, etc. It helps us position our camera at an odd angle at times. It helps us get higher than our typical shooting stance, and get lower at times for macro work. The most appropriate tripod for you will depend on your shooting style and choice of subject matter. There is not one tripod out there that is better with every subject matter; on the contrary, many tripods are specialist.

 

 

So, what areas should your tripod excel to be useful for outdoors shooting?

If you are planning to shoot nature, there are certain aspects of the outdoors which your tripod will have to endure, which it would not, if it was used indoors.

1. Moisture is an enemy of photography gear. If you plan to shoot landscapes in the wilderness, wild animals, birds, etc., your camera and you will end up in some wet environments. As such, you have to make sure that your tripod choice reflects this fact. Many manufacturers build tripods specifically meant for the outdoors, and they are built to be moisture resistant if not proof.

2. The terrain is always a concern outdoors. A good tripod should have spiked feet, simply because you will often end up on loose soil, dirt, and other surfaces that will be uneven, and require sharp spikes to secure the tripod, and attached gear. You can buy spare spiked feet from manufacturers if you don't have any.

3. The load is a very important aspect to consider. How heavy is your camera and your heaviest lens? Are you planning on getting larger heavier lenses in the future? While it is tough to predict, always try to plan ahead. Your choice of a tripod will reflect your future purchases. Always, make sure your tripod has at least 30% of capacity for future upgrades to your equipment. If you plan to shoot wildlife, you will have some really heavy lenses, and a tripod will have to support them and allow you to pan smoothly when shooting animals in action.

4. Weight is probably the main determining factor in your purchase. Remember, when you travel and explore, you will have your tripod with you, and depending upon how much walking you do, the weight of your tripod will be more or less important to you. However, always aim for the highest ratio of weight to load. In other words, look for lightest tripod rated for highest weight. Outdoors are often rough environments and every pound counts. 

5. The flexibility of shooting positions is important when you change subject matter on the fly. If you are like me, you will shoot macro, landscapes, panoramas, and perhaps even some animals, depending on the time of day and weather. If so, a flexible centre column is a must feature. Look for a tripod which allows for multiple positions of the centre column. A tripod should allow you to get low, and have more than one-foot angle. The best tripods for this job will offer up to three different angles for the feet, which will allow you to get very low if need be, to shoot flowers, insects, etc. 

 

 

How much money?

Choosing a tripod is not easy. Some manufacturers do make things easier and group them into specialities, like outdoors, studio use, etc. Do as much research as you can, because there is no one ideal model that suits everyone. Remember the old saying: "You get what you pay for". This is very important when deciding how much you are willing to pay. Keep in mind, a huge budget will not always mean you get the best tripod, but it will mean that you do have more choices.

Do not look for a cheap tripod, which you think may suffice. Your shooting requirements will change, and within a year or two, you will be shopping for another one. Strongly consider carbon fibre as they are lighter than any alloy, more durable, will not bend, and flex under the weight of your gear, and do not rust, corrode, or are adversely affected by moisture. They are more expensive, but without a doubt worth the extra money. Look at this purchase as a long-term investment in photography. After all, your images will only be as good as your shooting ability and your gear

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

- Guest Post -

 

 

Getting a photograph to fit a specific format is rarely as simple as it might seem. A portrait shot may need to become a landscape, or a tightly framed image might leave no room for text overlay. These are common problems for photographers and designers working across different platforms and print sizes.

Cropping has long been the default fix, but it often removes exactly what made the image work in the first place. The alternative, extending the canvas outward, used to require painstaking manual work in editing software, with results that rarely looked convincing.

That has changed considerably with the rise of the AI image extender. These tools use generative models to examine the existing content of a photograph and fill in surrounding areas with realistic detail, matching light, colour, and texture. The results are not always perfect, but the best tools have reached a point where extended areas can be difficult to distinguish from the original. For photographers who regularly need to adapt images for different formats, knowing which tools are worth using can help save time.

 

1. Adobe Firefly Generative Expand

 

Adobe Firefly uses context-aware fill to extend any image beyond its original borders. It reads the existing lighting, perspective, and colour before generating new content around the edges. The extended area tends to sit naturally alongside the original.

 A text prompt can guide what appears in the new canvas area. If expanding a landscape photograph, typing "open sky with light cloud" gives the model a clear direction. This produces more consistent results than leaving the prompt blank. This level of control is one of the reasons Firefly stands out among the available options.

 This feature is available within the free monthly credit allowance. Photographers can try it without paying anything upfront. Adobe Firefly offers detailed control through prompts and seamless integration with Creative Cloud. For anyone already working within Adobe's creative tools, the integration with the broader editing workflow is a practical advantage.

 

2. Canva AI Image Expander

 

Canva lets users drag the canvas edge outward and fills the gap with AI-generated content. It sits inside the same editor many photographers already use for social graphics. This removes the need to switch between applications.

This works particularly well for social media crops where the subject needs more breathing room. If a portrait feels too tight for a Facebook cover, Canva can extend the background without leaving the platform. The results are generally clean on images with moderate background detail. Very busy edges can produce inconsistencies.

 

3. Fotor AI Image Extender

 

Fotor is a browser-based tool with a straightforward upload-and-extend workflow. Users upload an image, choose the direction to extend, and the AI fills the new area. No software installation is required.

It performs best on images with consistent or simple backgrounds, such as plain skies or studio shots. Busy scenes with lots of detail at the edges can produce less convincing results. It is a good idea to test on a sample image before committing to a full batch.

 

4. PicsArt AI Expander

 

PicsArt is built with mobile users in mind. Images can be extended directly from a phone without needing a desktop editor. This suits photographers who work primarily from a mobile device.

It is a practical choice for those who edit on the go before posting to Instagram or TikTok. The app handles the extension quickly. The output is ready to share without further adjustment in most cases. A free tier is available, making it accessible without a paid account.

 

5. PixelCut Uncrop

 

PixelCut is designed specifically for portraits and product shots. It focuses on the kind of tight crops that come from shooting for one format and needing to repurpose the image for another.

In regular use, aspect ratio presets within PixelCut give e-commerce photographers a way to batch-prepare photos for different storefront requirements. Amazon and eBay product listings each prefer specific canvas shapes. Selecting a preset tailored for those formats means a user can upload a batch of tightly cropped images, apply the e-commerce preset, and have every output already sized for upload. This method can help save time and may prevent repeated errors that sometimes occur when resizing many product photos to meet different marketplace standards.

 

6. Airbrush Image Extender

 

Airbrush offers one-click extension with export options sized for multiple platforms. Users upload an image and choose the output format before downloading. This keeps the process short.

The platform presets generate correctly sized outputs for Pinterest, LinkedIn, and print in a single session. Airbrush does offer a free tier, though some export options and higher-resolution downloads require a paid plan. For occasional use, the free allowance covers most standard jobs.

 

7. FlexClip AI Image Extender

 

FlexClip is a browser tool that handles both photographs and video thumbnails. It is helpful when consistent image dimensions are needed across a series of videos or posts. It works without requiring a desktop application.

Content creators who produce regular video content will find it useful for keeping thumbnail sizes uniform. The extension quality is solid for images with moderate background detail. Very complex scenes may show some inconsistency at the edges.

 

8. Aragon AI Photo Editor

 

Aragon is built for portrait and headshot use cases. It extends images with an awareness of how faces and shoulders sit within a frame. This makes it more reliable than general-purpose tools for this specific type of photograph.

This makes it a good option when reframing a headshot for a wider banner or a profile header. The results tend to hold up well when the background is relatively neutral. The tool is straightforward to use without prior editing experience.

 

9. PxBee AI Image Extender

 

PxBee is a lightweight online tool that requires no account for basic use. Users upload an image, extend it, and download the result without signing up for anything.

It is a practical solution for a quick one-off extension without committing to a new platform. The output quality is suitable for simple jobs. It is not the best option for scenes with lots of fine detail near the edges.

 

10. Using Your Phone's Built-In AI Expand Feature

 

Recent Android and iOS updates have added native generative expand tools to the default gallery app on many devices. Samsung, Google Pixel, and Apple have all introduced versions of this feature. The quality on newer handsets is often similar to what is available from standalone browser tools.

Before downloading a third-party app, it is practical to check the phone's photo editor to see whether the feature is already present. On supported devices, the built-in option is free to use. It requires no additional account or credit allowance.

 

 

Conclusion

 

AI image expanders now give photographers a range of options for addressing tightly cropped images or adjusting aspect ratios for various platforms. Each featured tool has specific strengths. Adobe Firefly provides detailed control and seamless integration with Creative Cloud for those working extensively on desktop. Browser-based options and mobile apps support quick tasks or editing on the move.

Trying multiple solutions with free credit allowances lets photographers compare results first-hand. The best approach is to match the solution to the level of output quality, ease of use, and platform compatibility needed. For some, a built-in phone editor handles occasional social posts. Others may rely on Firefly's prompt-driven expansion for commercial projects.

Testing tools using personal images can show both the strengths and the limits of current AI models. Regular review helps ensure that the chosen solution continues to meet quality standards for both creative and client work. This can lead to more flexibility and efficiency whenever an image needs extra breathing room.

When a hurricane spins up over the Atlantic, the most frequent, most continuous pictures of it come from a camera parked 22,236 miles above the equator. That camera is the Advanced Baseline Imager, the primary instrument on NOAA's GOES-R series of weather satellites, and it works nothing like the one in your bag. It never racks focus, it has no shutter in the conventional sense, and what it delivers is not really a photograph. It is a stack of measurements that gets rebuilt into an image on the ground. 

[Read More]

Many photographers have felt the need to produce content in order to become more visible online and, consequently, to more potential clients. If you haven’t tried using a 360 camera, it can be the easiest solution for capturing behind-the-scenes footage.

 

[Read More]

The best culling software is the one that gets you to your picks faster without deciding for you. Narrative sorts a shoot by scene, ranks every frame for focus and expression, and shows you why it ranked things the way it did, so the final call stays yours. That last part is what separates it from tools that hand you a finished selection and ask you to trust it.

 

[Read More]

© Canon

 

Canon has released a free firmware update for the EOS C80 and EOS C400, enhancing image quality and workflow for professional filmmakers. The headline feature, Cinema Exposure Mode, improves highlight performance above base ISO and streamlines the log shooting menu. The EOS C400 adds Auto Exposure Ramping Compensation, while both cameras now support Canon's new CN30x40 Cine Servo lens. The update is available now for download.

 

From Canon UK:

Canon announces a new free firmware update for the EOS C80 and EOS C400, delivering image quality, workflow and compatibility enhancements for professional filmmakers. Headlined by the introduction of Cinema Exposure Mode, the update reflects Canon's ongoing commitment to evolving Cinema EOS products based on professional user feedback, helping customers get even more from their existing equipment.

Improved image performance and enhanced workflows

The latest firmware update introduces Cinema Exposure Mode, designed to improve highlight performance when shooting above base ISO levels (up to 2-stops), as well as providing a more streamlined camera menu specifically for log shooting. This gives filmmakers greater flexibility in challenging shooting conditions while helping maximise image quality throughout post-production workflows.

The EOS C400 also benefits from a range of workflow and usability enhancements, including Auto Exposure Ramping Compensation for smoother operation in broadcast and live production environments with supported Cine Servo lenses, alongside additional refinements that streamline day-to-day camera operation.

Further expanding the Cinema EOS ecosystem, the update adds enhanced compatibility with the all-new and optically groundbreaking CN30x40 Cine Servo lens, strengthening integration across Canon's professional imaging portfolio and providing greater flexibility for production teams.

By adding meaningful new capabilities at no additional cost, Canon continues to demonstrate its commitment to supporting professional creators long after purchase, ensuring the Cinema EOS platform continues to evolve in line with the needs of filmmakers.

 

Availability

The EOS C80 and EOS C400 firmware update will be available to download free of charge from 19 August via canon-europe.com/support.

I'm some kind of glutton for punishment. I've reviewed all manner of cheap cameras, and then even cheaper cameras, all so you, the reader, can get a good laugh. I went into this review of the Chuzhao Mini TLR thinking that I was going to provide more entertainment by lampooning the camera, but alas, I can't. 

It's actually fun, and the picture quality is not as bad as its price would suggest.

Deep breath here.

[Read More]

Most wildlife shooters pick a shutter speed out of habit, then wonder why their still owl on a branch came out at ISO 12,800 and full of noise. The number you dial in shapes sharpness, emotion, and the amount of grain you'll fight later, and knowing why you choose it matters more than memorizing a chart.

 

[Read More]

Most photographers hit a stretch where the work stops exciting them, direction disappears, and the whole thing starts to feel like a chore. Those flat periods are often what push you toward something new, if you know where to look.

 

[Read More]

- Partner Content -

 

 

An SD card that has become corrupted can ruin an otherwise ordinary photography session. Everything seems fine one minute, and suddenly you start seeing error messages like “SD card must be formatted,” “Card cannot be read,” “Drive is inaccessible,” or “The file or directory is corrupted and unreadable.”

In case your SD card has valuable photos, video footage, and other documents on it, it is understandable that the first thought that comes to mind is to format the card. But you definitely shouldn’t do that yet.

The good news is that, in many cases, you can fix corrupted SD card without formatting and recover your files first. The safest approach is to stop using the card, attempt non-destructive troubleshooting, and recover important data before making major changes to its file system.

This guide explains why SD cards become corrupted, what you should do first, and several practical ways to fix a corrupted SD card without formatting.

 

Why Does an SD Card Become Corrupted

 

SD card corruption can happen for several reasons. Common causes include:

• Removing the SD card while files are being transferred
• Turning off a camera while it is still writing photos or videos
• Sudden battery loss during a recording
• Interrupting a file transfer
• Malware or file-system errors
• Bad sectors or aging flash memory

Corruption will always be particularly irritating for those working as photographers as an SD card can hold many photos or videos in RAW format.

Even if your card is corrupt, it does not mean that the files are lost. There might be cases when the data is still there physically but the system cannot read it anymore.

 

What to Do Before You Try to Fix the Corrupted SD Card

 

Before attempting any repair, protect the existing data.

 

1. Stop Using the SD Card

If the card contains important files, do not take additional photos or videos and do not copy new files to it.

New data can overwrite storage space that previously contained deleted or inaccessible files. Once overwritten, recovery can become much more difficult.

 

2. Don't Format the Card Yet

If Windows, macOS, or your camera displays a message asking you to format the SD card, choose Cancel or No for now.

Formatting may make the card usable again, but it can also make file recovery more complicated. Recovering important files should come before formatting whenever possible.

 

3. Check the Card Reader and Connection

Sometimes the SD card itself is not the problem. Try:

• A different USB card reader
• Another USB port
• Another computer
• A different SD adapter if you are using a microSD card

If the card works normally on another reader or computer, you may be dealing with a connection problem rather than serious SD card corruption.

 

How to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

 

Once you have protected the card and checked the hardware, you can try the following methods.

 

Method 1. Fix Corrupted SD Card With Professional Software

When the SD card contains irreplaceable photos or videos, data recovery should come before repair.

It is especially important if the SD card appears as RAW, is inaccessible, or keeps asking you to format it. A corrupted file system might not allow you to access the files, although there could be some information that can be recovered.

With its all-inclusive features, EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard helps to repair and recover data from SD cards. The software provides solutions to fix damaged SD cards having problems like displaying raw file system, being inaccessible, asking for continuous formatting or unable to be detected by devices through its SDR technology.

In cases where the SD card is seriously damaged, not able to be repaired using SDR technology, the SSR and DVR technologies come into play to recover more data. These technologies will help you to retrieve fragmented, partially damaged, and unplayable photos and videos.

If there are any important photos or videos saved on the faulty SD card, then data recovery is what you should focus on. The file system of corrupted SD card does not allow access to the files while the files are actually there to be recovered. If you want to repair the corrupted SD card without formatting and save the files, EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard is what you need.

 

 

Method 2. Try CHKDSK to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

If you have already recovered your important files, or the SD card does not contain anything you need to recover, you can try Windows' built-in CHKDSK utility. CHKDSK checks the file system and can attempt to repair certain logical errors and here is how you can run the CHKDSK command:

Step 1. Connect the SD card to your Windows computer.

Step 2. Find the drive letter assigned to the SD card in File Explorer.

Step 3. Open Command Prompt as Administrator.

Step 4. Enter the following command, replacing E: with your SD card's actual drive letter:

chkdsk E: /f

Step 5. Press Enter and wait for the process to finish.

The utility CHKDSK could be helpful for some problems related to the logical structure of the file system, although it is not a remedy for all cases. When there are valuable files on the card which have not been restored yet, it is better to restore the files before any change to the file system.

 

Method 3. Change the Drive Letter to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

If Windows detects the SD card but does not allow you to access it normally, changing its drive letter may resolve a drive-letter conflict. Here is how you can do this:

Step 1. Hold Win+R and choose Disk Management from the menu.

Step 2. Locate your SD card and right-click on it.

Step 3. Choose “Change Drive Letter and Paths” and click “Change”.

Step 4. Select a different available drive letter and click OK.

Then open File Explorer and check whether the card is accessible. This method does not repair physical damage, but it can help when Windows has assigned the card a problematic or conflicting drive letter.

 

Method 4. Reinstall the SD Card Driver to Fix Corrupted SD Card Without Formatting

A driver problem can sometimes make a healthy SD card appear inaccessible. You can troubleshoot the driver by reinstalling it with the following steps:

Step 1. Connect the SD card to your computer.

Step 2. Open Device Manager and expand Disk drives.

Step 3. Locate the SD card or card-reader device.

Step 4. Right-click it, select “Uninstall device”, and restart the computer.

Windows may automatically reinstall the necessary driver after restarting. If the card is still inaccessible afterward, the problem may be related to the file system, the storage media, or the card reader rather than the driver.

 

How to Prevent SD Card Corruption in the Future

 

With your data recovered and the SD card back in working order, you can adopt a few practices to minimize the chance of future corruption.

• Always Eject the Card Safely: Wait until your photos have been fully transferred to your computer before ejecting the card or reader.
• Never Shoot on a Near-Full Card: Have enough space left on the card rather than shooting to the maximum of the available capacity.
• Format Your Cards in the Camera if Recommended by the Manufacturer: If your camera manufacturer advises formatting in the camera, do that instead of continually formatting the card on several devices.
• Have a Backup for Important Photos: SD cards are not the only place from which you should access your photos. For special events, always back up important pictures in another place, such as a computer, an external hard drive, or cloud storage.
• Discard Recurrently Corrupted Cards: Do not reuse an SD card that keeps getting corrupted despite formatting.

 

Final Thoughts

 

How to fix corrupted SD card without formatting? If you have a problem with a corrupted SD card, formatting might not be the solution. First and foremost, it is necessary to save the files that are on it.

If you are trying to find a solution for how to fix a corrupted SD card without formatting, there are several actions you need to take in order to solve your problem. You will need to stop writing operations, check your card reader, and recover your files before anything else. Windows built-in applications such as CHKDSK might come in handy in case of logical damage. Changing drive letters or reinstalling your drivers is also helpful in cases where you cannot access the SD card.

EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard is an easy way to scan and fix your SD card and recover your files if your SD card is not accessible and/or the file system is badly damaged. Its features related to SD card recovery are compatible with many situations such as corruption, raw cards, accidental deletion, and formatting.

 

Zoos and wildlife parks are great places to get up close with wildlife, but the fences and glass keeping us and the animals safe can cause a few problems for photographers.

 

Height Is An Issue

Fences often rise above eye level and the tops aren't in easy reach (for good reason) so you can't hold your camera up above it to take your shots. As a result, we often have to take photos with the cage in front of us but this doesn't mean the fence has to appear and as a result spoiling the shot.

Sometimes it's easy to capture fence-free shots as the gaps in the mesh are just big enough for a lens to be poked through, however, when it's not, you'll have to use a few other tricks to capture your wildlife shot. 

 

Close With Wide Apertures

One way is to get as close to the fence as possible and select a wider aperture. Then, line up your lens so it's over a gap or if they're too small, try and wait so the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap. Once the animal has put some distance between them and the fence, take your shot. The fence will, hopefully, be thrown our of focus, thanks to the reduced depth-of-field, so you won't even notice it while your subject will be sharp. 

You may find that Auto Focus tries to focus on the fence rather than your subject so switch to manual focus to ensure your subject is sharp. 

 

Longer Lenses

If you are using a lens that doesn't have a particularly wide aperture then don't worry; you'll still be able to capture a mesh-free shot with a longer focal range. If you can't shoot through or throw the fence out of focus you can often clone it out later using an image editing program. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

A rare eclipse pulled roughly 10,000 people onto a hill in West London, and one photographer showed up with nothing but a hunch and a single lens. Events like this force quick decisions about gear, light, and how you move through a dense crowd, and the choices carry over to any assignment where you can't predict the scene.

 

[Read More]

An everyday camera comes down to a short list of things you actually care about: size, weight, how much it hurts if it gets stolen, and whether the files are fun to edit. Most gear roundups skip the honest part and just tell you what to buy.

 

[Read More]

 

Beach huts are wonderfully photogenic and you can get great pictures of them almost regardless of the lighting conditions. However, beach huts get elevated to iconic status when the scene is complemented by a photogenic sky.

 

1. Gear Suggestions

A wide-angle will help you make the most of big skies, but even the short end of your standard zoom should be fine. Obviously the wider your lens the more sky that you can include. However, there is the danger of going too wide and including fantastic sky detail as well as more mundane bits, so do frame carefully. A selection of filters can come in very handy so do pack some graduates as well as the polariser.
 

2. When?

Lovely skies can occur at any time of year and at any time of day so you just have to be aware of the conditions and keep an eye on what’s happening. With heavy showers followed by brief spells of intense sunlight, there is every chance of dramatic skies, not to mention things like rainbows.

Periodically check what’s happening in the heavens as the day progresses and in the end, you might end up with a good set of images, all taken from the same spot but looking very different as the sky is constantly changing.

 

3. Metering

Exposure can be tricky because of the wide contrast range between the sky and the beach huts, so you need to think about metering to ensure the optimum result. In some cases, you might even find the foreground to be brighter than the sky, say when there is a doom-laden dark sky behind the sunlit huts.

With this sort of shot, the most important of the scene is the highlight detail (usually the sky) so meter off that and let the shadows worry about themselves. If the foreground then looks too gloomy use exposure compensation to help and reshoot.

If the light is changing quickly, and this can happen in stormy conditions, bracket exposures to make sure you get a result you are happy with. If you find the sky is still coming out too light, fit a graduate filter.

 

 

4. Enhance

A polariser can intensity a colourful or a stormy sky depending on the direction of the light so that too can work. A polariser can enhance a sky to make it work even better for a black & white conversion. However, you might prefer the natural approach and that is perfectly fine.

 

5. Composition

In terms of composition, being bold can help. Some people might want to compose using the rule-of-thirds, but this can actually look rather static. Lining up the huts along the very bottom of the frame can work better and give even more prominence to the sky. Just explore the options when you are framing up the shot.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition