Photography News

Photographers who have already reviewed the new Mandler 50mm f/1.4 Pre-A M-mount lens immediately compare its image quality to the Leica Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 E46 pre-aspherical design. My attitude is, who cares!

 

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Few things slow down a real estate edit like opening Photoshop after an update and finding the panel you use on every listing has rearranged itself. When you turn around dozens of interiors a week, small interface changes in Photoshop and Premiere cost real time until your hands relearn where everything lives.

 

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Film costs real money per frame now, and that price changes how you work: you meter more carefully, you wait longer, and you think twice before pressing the shutter. A digital camera can imitate a lot of that discipline if you strip away its conveniences, which raises a fair question about what you actually love when you say you love film.

 

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ZWO now sells three versions of its Seestar S30 smart telescope, and the new S30 Plus lands between the original and the Pro in price and capability. If you want a complete deep-sky imaging system that fits in a small case, the differences between those three models decide how much of a galaxy or nebula you can actually get into one frame.

 

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Lightroom's Color Grading panel can change the mood of a photo with a few color wheels and a couple of sliders, yet a lot of edits come out heavy and unnatural because the colors were chosen at random. A small amount of color theory gives those wheels a direction, and that direction is what separates a deliberate look from a lucky accident.

 

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As a landscape photographer, wide-angle and ultra wide lenses simply cannot be ignored.

The most common error made when using wide-angle lenses is simply using them solely for their wide-angle, by just trying to get everything into the shot. The resulting picture often simply has too much in it, and the subject is just lost in amongst everything else. Really, you should consider a wide-angle lens not as a way to get more into the picture, but as a way of emphasising foreground detail and perspective.

  Think about your viewpoint

In use, in a landscape situation, select your viewpoint carefully, as well as your foreground detail, and if possible, ensure that foreground element relates directly to the landscape and has a degree of shape harmony with the picture. If, for example, you choose a rock near the side of a lake on a calm day with reflections, ensure the rock is positioned to fit into the shape of the reflections. The benefit of working closely to your foreground subject is that repositioning the camera by only a few inches can make huge changes to the composition and visual balance of your photos. Roads, paths, walls, in fact, all lead-lines become powerful and dramatic, but make sure they are supporting the main subject of your photo rather than simply becoming the subject in themselves.

 

Photos By John Gravett. 

Remember - wider lenses give a greater depth of field

While front-to-back depth of field is useful in wide angle landscapes, it's important to remember that as an ultra wide-angle lens has an inherently greater depth of field than standard lenses, really small apertures might not always be necessary. Often f/11 or f/16 will give front to back sharpness without having to revert to f/22, where many ultra wides may suffer slightly from diffraction.

The same extensive depth of field can often affect choice of graduated filters to use. With longer focal length lenses, hard-edged grads work but when used with an ultrawide lens, they often show a distinct line where they are used, so usually, a soft-edged grad is a better choice, particularly for the stronger ones.

Wide-angles are so often prone to over-use, but used properly and with care, can produce truly amazing, powerful pictures.
 

Article by John Gravett of Lakeland Photographic Holidays - www.lakelandphotohols.com

The FEI's veterinary rulebook contains one number that decides nothing at all. A temperature difference of more than two degrees Celsius between a horse's left and right lower limbs counts as a significant thermographic finding, and a significant thermographic finding eliminates nobody, fines nobody, and never becomes the result of record. Everything it can do, it does by handing two veterinarians a reason to keep working the leg with their hands.

 

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With a small flurry of compact film cameras launched in the last couple of years, I was hoping to fall in love with the Lomography MC-A. It’s beautiful and satisfying to use, but a couple of annoying flaws leave me both disappointed and frustrated. 

The Lomography MC-A launched last October, further heralding a renewed love of everything analog in the world of photography. This is a compact camera that arguably takes inspiration from Contax: small and packed with automation but with lots of manual control when you need it.

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Shots of shampoo bottles plunging into water, wrapped in bubbles and topped with a crown of splash, look like luck caught at the right instant. Most of that look comes from planning, and the planning behind it answers a question you run into across product work: how to keep a subject exactly where you want it while everything around it moves.

 

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You come home from a trip with hundreds of sharp, well-exposed frames of towers, smiling friends, and pretty streets, and almost none of them hold a stranger's attention for more than a second. The photos you remember from books and exhibitions share one trait that has little to do with gear or settings, and you can learn to build it into your own work.

 

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Shift lenses keep a building's verticals straight while the camera stays level, and they do it without the unpredictable cropping and resolution loss you take on when you fix perspective in software. Laowa's new 24mm f/2 Zero-D Tilt-Shift brings that to most mirrorless mounts and to medium format, at an aperture tilt-shift lenses almost never reach.

 

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A landscape photo can be sharp, well exposed, and carefully composed and still look like a flat print taped to a wall. Depth in a two-dimensional image comes from cues the eye reads instantly, such as where light falls, how contrast changes with distance, and how warm and cool tones sit against each other, and you can strengthen most of those cues in the edit.

 

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For some people the only way they think they can have a professional portrait taken is to stand in a studio in front of a big set of lights but lifestyle shoots just might change their mind. Having the great outdoors as your studio will give you so many more creative opportunities with backgrounds, colours, shapes and textures, as well as being able to shoot a story. 

Photo by Joshua Waller Lens choices

A 70-200mm lens is a good choice for DSLR shooters. Shooting around the 135mm mark at f/4 can give great perspective and enough depth of field to throw the background out of focus without leaving it too shallow. A wider lens, such as a 14-24mm is great for environmental portraits, while a 55mm macro lens is great for detail. If you want a good all-rounder lens, a 24-70mm would be a good choice, too. It's also a good idea, if you have them, to pack the speedlights, continuous lights, ringflash and reflectors. 
 

Plan ahead

Organisation is key so make sure you have a plan in advance. Having a few locations that you are familiar with will give you plenty of scope, and it also means you'll know particular spots that'll work well for your shots. Local beauty spots, good urban routes with interesting architecture or a park with lots of interest such as water features are just some of the locations you could work with. The other place you need in reserve is somewhere dry in case of bad weather. 

Photo by Joshua Waller Make sure your model's comfortable

It's important to discuss clothing, makeup and meeting points then on the day of the shoot, meet for a coffee and spend 30 minutes or so having a pre-shoot chat as this will help break the ice. You could even take a book or folder of a few favourite photos along to show your model/client as they'll welcome the opportunity to see your ideas and help. Come up with a few ideas and even adjectives of the mood/feel you're trying to create. For example, Autumnal shoots could be about warm clothing and crisp golden colours. By doing so you will be able to portray a theme to your clients/model who should be able to quite naturally slip into an informal pose to convey this without really having to try or feel self-conscious. 

When it comes to the shoot, let people be natural and remember it's your job to make them feel comfortable even if you do know the person/people you are photographing. Shoot intuitively and creatively. Even if you've shot in a place many times, try setting yourself a target to come up with several new shots. This time of year's a good time to experiment with natural frames as the autumnal shades add warmth to the image. Just make sure you focus on your subject so the leaves blur just enough so you can still see what they are but don't distract.   

Two weeks ago I spent over $7,000 on Apple's new touchscreen MacBook Pro. It finally showed up, so I put it side by side with the M3 Max MacBook Pro I've been using for the last two years. To be perfectly honest, I'm on the fence about whether I even want to keep it. 

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Twenty-four college students watched the same mock police interrogation end in the same confession, and came away with three different opinions about how hard the suspect had been pushed. The only thing that differed between them was where the camera sat. Students who saw the version framed on the suspect judged the confession barely coerced, and students who saw the version framed on the detective judged it heavily coerced.

 

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You use a red headlamp when you're walking around. It preserves your night vision. But if there are other astro-landscape photographers nearby, you're likely ruining their shots. You were trying to do the right thing. But you weren't.

Most of us were taught that red light is the night photographer's best friend. It is, but only for your eyes. Cameras don't care what your eyes prefer.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9rY7OYSpJ4

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Autumn on Iona brings low sun that can light the island for most of the day, but it also brings squalls that roll in off the Atlantic with little notice. You get minutes of good light at a time, so you have to decide on exposure, framing, and where to stand before the next band of rain hits.

 

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Two filmmakers who spent years running toward airstrikes in Aleppo now wake to a recorded voice telling them to remain calm and evacuate the building. The fire alarm in their London hotel for asylum seekers goes off so often that they joke about it. If it were real, one of them says, the authorities would be happy to have fewer asylum seekers. Their film is about the part of documentary work most people never see: the long stretch after the footage is shot, when the people who held the cameras have nothing left to do but wait.

 

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Platon has photographed presidents, dictators, and pop stars, sometimes with 30 seconds and a single frame, using the same Hasselblad, the same white seamless, and the same apple box for decades. How he works inside those short windows explains why a portrait session can fall apart the moment your attention drifts from the person to the gear.

 

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Lightroom Classic 16 arrived with Adobe MAX, bringing a native glow effect, depth masks that no longer depend on special camera files, color grading inside masks, and automatic blemish removal. Several of these used to require a trip to Photoshop, a plugin, or a phone that recorded depth data.

 

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