Photography News

We’ve all been there. You’re out somewhere, with a camera in tow, but the purpose isn’t photography. Maybe you’re walking with family or friends. Maybe you’re running to an appointment. You don’t have the luxury of setting up a tripod or spending fifteen minutes working a composition. You take some extra frames from varying angles or perspectives, just to be safe. But when you get home, you may find you have an editorial problem you didn't plan for.

 

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Talent gets discussed constantly, but the photographers who keep landing work tend to share a set of habits that have nothing to do with raw skill. The difference shows up in how they practice, prepare, and handle the people around them.

 

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Adobe quietly slipped a Light adjustment layer into the main Photoshop interface, and it looks almost identical to the tone and exposure controls you already know from Lightroom and Camera Raw. That resemblance is the whole problem, because now people can't tell where they should actually be making these edits.

 

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Better photos rarely come from a more interesting subject. They come from motion, perspective, camera height, and depth, the controls sitting in front of you that decide how an image feels before anyone thinks about what's in it.

 

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A respected photographer once told a teenager she wasn't good enough to make it, and that single sentence kept her from picking up a camera for decades. Those words carry a weight far heavier than the person who said them ever intended, and most creative people have heard some version of them, either out loud or in their own head.

 

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Stairs and steps may sound boring, however, when you start thinking about the materials they're made from and the shapes and styles that exist, you'll soon realise there's plenty of steps to keep you and your camera occupied. Be it a graphical shot of an industrial set of steps leading up the side of a metal structure or a spiral staircase in a grand house, if you keep your eyes open, you'll soon realise there are many interesting sets of steps and stairs around you that will make an interesting image. Here are a few tips to get you thinking about how you can capture shots of these subjects next time you're out exploring with your camera. 

 

1. Gear Suggestions

A wide-angle lens will exaggerate the twists and turns of a spiral staircase while a telephoto lens is good for bringing staircases on the outside of buildings to you. Pack a polariser for stairs against glass or reflective surfaces and a tripod would be handy to help you make sure that the stairs are perfectly straight.

 

2. Guide The Eye

As stairs take you somewhere they're naturally a great way to lead you into and through an image. They can be used to guide the eye to a particular feature or you could hide the last part of the staircase to leave the viewer wondering where the stairs may go to. Lines are a great way to lead the eye into the image and you don't get a better line than a long bannister so use them to your advantage.

 

3. Spirals

Stand at the top or bottom of a spiral staircase with your wide-angle lens and you can get a great but rather overdone shot of the spiral shape twisting up. Try getting someone to stand or lay at the bottom or carefully peek over the bannister at the top and use the spiralling stairs as a frame.

 

 

 

4. Movement And Size

For your more normal staircases use your wide-angle lens to exaggerate the grandeur of a particularly wide, long set of stairs or use a slow shutter speed if you're in a city and blur the movement of city-goers as they pass through your shot. Zoom in and fill the frame with repeating patterns of stairs to exaggerate their size which will also give your image a more graphical feel. 

 

5. Reflections

Some staircases go up the outside of buildings so use your telephoto lens to bring them to you. This lens is also great if your stairs are reflected to give you symmetry in your shot. Try to stand so you're in the centre of the stairs and reflection to enhance the pattern.

 

6. Be Different

For something different try to shoot through the spindles to the other side of the staircase or if you're outdoors, use them to frame a single building or a shot of showing part of the city. Try altering your angle, shooting lower down to emphasise the height and/or the number of steps in front of you. Many cameras now have vari-angle LCD screens which allow you to frame your subjects from multiple angles with ease. Which means you won't have to get down on your knees or crouch when capturing low-angled shots. Use light and shadows to add depth, shapes and another level of interest to your shots and experiment with colour, too as turning an image black & white can really make the viewer focus on the shapes and textures of an image when the colour's stripped away. 

 

   

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The tornado photograph you have probably seen, the dramatic one with a thick central funnel and two thinner vortices trailing off its side, was probably retouched, its more interesting cloud base likely painted in or combined from another negative. The image that actually came first is far less cinematic: a faint gray thread against a washed-out sky, made on April 26, 1884, by a Kansas fruit grower who happened to still own a camera. It is the oldest surviving photograph of a tornado, and its photographer got it by keeping a heavy camera dead still while a funnel crossed the plains.

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Reliable and well-engineered gear is something all landscape photographers rely on. This is especially true when we consider investing in the accessory that keeps our cameras secure and stable.

 

When I started with photography, I assumed one only needed a basic tripod and a standard three-way head. Over the years, I tried and tested different tripod heads, such as ball, fluid, and gimbal heads, as well as pistol grips. But nothing came close to the precision and ease of use of a geared head.

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Technical perfection can drain the life out of a photograph. Chasing sharpness, clean detail, and flawless contrast in every frame often strips away the exact quality that made an image feel real in the first place.

 

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An autofocus 50mm f/1.8 for the Nikon Z system runs $89, and the images coming off it look nothing like the price tag suggests. A fast prime at that number changes what a beginner can afford as a first step past the kit lens.

 

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You can shoot at f/1.4 and get almost no background blur, or shoot at f/4 and get plenty of it. That single fact upends how most people spend money on lenses, and it explains why some expensive glass never delivers the creamy backgrounds you paid for.

 

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Your mind goes blank the second the couple stands in front of you, every Pinterest board you studied the night before suddenly gone. That blank moment is the difference between a wedding day that flows and one that stalls while two nervous people wait for direction.

 

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Photo by Joshua Waller

 

City life's not for everyone but as the sun begins to set find yourself a vantage point where you can see most of the city skyline and you'll soon have a photograph that may make you rethink your dislike for cities. One of the best times for photographing city skylines is when the sun's begun to set so there's still a touch of blue in the sky but the light's not too harsh so make sure you're on your chosen vantage point well before sunset. 

 

1. Gear Choices

Pack a wide lens for capturing the big picture and a telephoto for singling out individual buildings and pulling distant objects towards you on your evening jaunt. Taking a tripod with you is advised but do leave your flashgun at home and turn your on-camera flash off as if it fires, it can ruin your skyline shot.

Most cameras, even compacts and smartphones are capable of producing night shots of decent quality but if you're planning on using much lengthier exposure times, you'll want to pack a more advanced camera. 

 

2. Where To Stand With Your Kit

While on holiday (if you have a room with a view) make use of the balcony to give you a high vantage point of the city. You'll also find buildings with observation decks, bridges to stand on and if you're in a city such as Sheffield which has the peak district on its doorstep, try heading for the hills to give you a sweeping shot of the whole city. From high locations you'll be able to capture patterns you can't see at street level such as the lines street lights form as they turn on or the shapes created as city dwellers switch on their lights at home. Street lights look particularly good twinkling against the deep blue sky still lit by the setting sun. Just be careful where you meter from as you don't want the sky or building lights to 'blow out'. Keep an eye on your histogram and take a reading from a darker part of the frame. Another option is to take multiple exposures of the same view so you can combine them to create a shot with a balanced exposure where there's not under- or over-exposed areas in the image. 

 

3. Taking Photos Through Glass

If you've got to capture your image through glass do check for marks and smudges that will spoil your shot. If you can't remove them, experiment with your aperture to see if one particular f-number will remove them from the shot. You'll also need to put the lens as close to the glass as possible and cup it with your hand, a cloth or whatever else you have that will reduce the amount of interior light reaching your lens. If you don't, you'll end up with reflections and flare could spoil your shots. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

4. Depth Of Field 

You'll want to use an aperture that gives your shot plenty of depth of field, around f/8 is a good place to start, and try to stick to lower ISOs where possible. You may find you need to adjust this to increase shutter speeds but if you're using a tripod, longer exposures won't be an issue. If you have it available, the depth of field preview button can help ensure your shot is sharp from front to back. 

Foreground interest can add another level interest and 'fill' empty space that can occur when focusing on subjects in the distance. However, do make sure it's not stealing the spotlight and pulling the viewer's attention away from the skyline. 

 

5. Shoot Silhouettes 

Silhouetted cityscapes are popular subjects and they work well against a plain but bright background. Even though they're a little clichéd sunsets do work well particularly if it's one that's rich with colour. To create your silhouette you need to expose for the background and not the buildings you want to silhouette. You may need to fool your camera when it comes to metering as using the camera's automatic metering won't always give you the silhouette you're after. Try half-pressing the shutter button while focused on the brightest part of your scene before moving back to frame the shot but this means your camera will focus on this and not your subject. Manual focus or using a smaller aperture can combat this problem. Talking of manual focus, you should consider using this even when not shooting silhouettes as it'll always produce better results, plus auto-focus tends to struggle as light levels fall. 

 

6. Shots At Street Level

As well as getting up high working at street level can work well in the evening too. Try using long exposures (20-30 seconds) to set the dark sky and buildings against the streak of lights that come from the traffic as it moves through the city streets. You could even combine multiple traffic streak shots to increase the sense of speed and movement in your city shot. Another way to add a creative twist to your city skyline shots is by incorporating reflections from rivers, lakes or even wet pavements after it's rained. 

 

7. Tall Buildings & Straight Horizons

Pay attention to your horizon and the angle of the buildings as you don't want them to be slanting to one side of the image. A tripod with a spirit level can be handy although many cameras now have these or gridlines built-in. When home, check your city shots for distortion but this is something that can be easily fixed in image editing software. Playing around with the colour balance can enhance and evoke mood, too so don't be afraid to experiment with this. 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition  

Japan observes a Camera Day on November 30, and the date comes from 1977, when Konishiroku Photo Industry put the Konica C35 AF on sale. It was the first mass-produced camera that focused itself, and the part doing the focusing was built by a Minneapolis company whose main businesses were thermostats, industrial controls, and defense electronics. Autofocus turns 50 in November 2027, and the anniversary belongs to a brand most photographers have quietly filed under "used bin."

 

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A small card of 24 painted squares turns 50 this year. It is still made, still sold, and still sitting in the front pocket of a lot of camera bags, because it answers a question that cameras have never learned to answer on their own: what color is this, actually? 

Happy birthday to the ColorChecker. Here is what it does, why the design has barely moved since 1976, and where the thing has ended up in five decades of use.

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I recently wrote about why we should stop accepting standard "constructive criticism" on our photos. Instead, solicit feedback that actually helps you grow as a photographer. But most of us don’t know how to ask for anything better. We never learned how to ask. So how do you get more meaningful input on your work? Ask for a critique. 

 

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Everything creative takes longer than you plan, your photos will get worse before they get better, and you will miss shots that were never yours to keep. These are the uncomfortable facts most people skip when they hand out photography advice, and accepting them early saves years of frustration.

 

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Sony sells a 50mm f/1.2 but has held off on an 85mm f/1.2 for its full frame mirrorless system, and now a third party has stepped in with autofocus and a price that undercuts Sony's own 85mm f/1.4 G Master II. The Sigma 85mm f/1.2 DG DN Art lands as the first autofocus 85mm f/1.2 for Sony E and the first 85mm f/1.2 ever for L-mount.

 

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Autumn brings shorter crowds, softer light, and sunrise times you can actually reach without setting three alarms. The hard part is knowing where to point the camera in the first place, especially when time is short.

 

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A single medium format film shot cost about 470 times what the same scene cost on a digital camera. That kind of math should end the film-versus-digital debate outright, and yet the photos taken on film still mean more to the person who shot them. This is the tension every hybrid shooter runs into once digital quality stops being the question.

 

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