Photography News

Image Credit: Niah Aldrich / Westcott

 

Photographers and filmmakers know the exact struggle of traveling with traditional V-flats. Known as fragile and bulky to lug around, Westcott has finally changed that with a new collapsible V-Flat that's built to last and actually portable enough to travel with.

This isn't your typical foam board. The Westcott V-Flat combines a sturdy aluminum frame with fabrics you can toss in a washing machine. No more worrying about dents, chips, or warping after a few shoots.

Photographers and filmmakers now have the ability to travel with full-size V-Flats.

We designed the Westcott V-Flat to give creators the light control they expect without the headaches that come with foam core. It travels easily, sets up fast, and holds up shoot after shoot.

– Brandon Heiss, President of Westcott

 

Image Credit: Niah Aldrich / Westcott

 

What Makes It Different

The standout feature is how compact it gets. When you're done shooting, the whole unit folds into a 45" by 9" by 6" carry case. Most traditional V-Flats are just too unwieldy for location work, but this one packs down neatly so you can easily throw it in your trunk or backseat.

Setup is hassle-free. There are no tools required, and you'll have it ready to go in under five minutes. The magnetic feet have rubber grips so nothing slides around mid-shoot, and switching between black and white fabric panels takes seconds depending on what your lighting setup needs.

 

Size and Versatility

Each side measures 41" by 84", and when fully opened, you get 82" by 84" of usable surface. The frame pivots anywhere from 15 to 180 degrees, giving you total control over the angle. You can bounce light, block sunlight coming through windows, create dramatic shadows, flag unwanted light, or even use it as a backdrop. Basically, any lighting problem on set can be solved with this thing.

 

Image Credit: Westcott

 

Where to Buy

The Westcott V-Flat is in stock now at authorized Westcott dealers and directly through the official Westcott V-Flat collection page. Options include single-frame setups with your choice of black or white, a two-pack bundle, or individual fabric replacements if you want to mix and match.

For more information, please visit the Westcott website.

Landscape photography's a wide topic, however, there are certain key elements which appear in various shots, taken by many different photographers, as they help add an extra level of interest or give shots mood and more impact.

  1. Capture Images Of Trees

 

A subject which is photogenic at any time of the year, trees, either on their own or stood shoulder-to-shoulder in a large forest, are strong structures that add interest to wide landscapes and become dominant and striking when photographed on their own. They can give images a sense of scale and when photographed up close, make excellent textures for adding to other photos at later dates.

For more tips on shooting trees, take a look at this tutorial: Ten Top Ways To Photograph Trees

 

2. Shooting Interesting Skies

 

The sky, and how much of it is in-frame, will change the overall focus and feeling of the image you're trying to take. Dark, rain-filled clouds will add drama while white clouds sat against a blue sky will create a completely different feeling altogether. Interesting skies can occur at any time of year and at any time of day so you just have to be aware of the conditions and keep an eye on what’s happening.

If you have a sky full of interesting cloud formations the key is to making sure the clouds aren't too bright. Check your histogram if you're unsure. Make sure you're ready to shoot an interesting formation as soon as you see it as they change shape quickly and if the clouds are rather breath-taking remember to lose some of the ground to make the sky your focus.

Blurring the movement of the clouds is an interesting effect that can also help create leading lines to guide the eye through the photograph. If you're shooting on a brightish day you'll need to fit an ND filter so you can use the slower shutter speeds without too much light reaching the sensor.

As briefly mentioned above, if the sky is really impressive, shift the horizon down so the sky dominates the frame. It does still help to have some land in the image, though as this adds foreground interest as well as scale to the shot.

For more tips on shooting skies, take a look at this article: How To Photograph Interesting Skies. We also have an article on Capturing Mood In Your Photos as well as a Top Ten On Photographing Sunsets.

  3. Use Water In All Its Forms 

 

Be it lakes, rivers, streams or ponds, water often plays a big part in landscapes. It can be used to add a sense of movement to what would be a static image, reflections on its surface can add depth and in winter, frozen water adds another element of interest to landscape shots.

For more tips on shooting water in the landscape, take a look at these tutorials:

• How To Blur Water
• Top Reflection Photography Tips
• Photographing Rivers
• Ice Photography Advice

 

4. Capture Patterns And Textures

 

Taking the time to emphasise shapes, patterns and textures that appear in nature can help create a strong image when isolated from what's around them. This works particularly well for black and white shots when you need ways to separate the different elements in your frame. Why? Well, when taking landscapes in colour, it's easy to see different elements in the landscape but once the colours are taken away, the various elements tend to blend together more as the tones are similar once converted to black and white. Seek out strong shapes in the landscape such as walls and trees that might provide a leading line into the landscape. Strong distinctive shapes are easier for the eye to pick out and understand even when the tones are similar.

Strong, side-light will enhance textures so head out early or late in the day when the sun's decided it doesn't want to hide behind clouds.

For more tips on using textures and patterns, take a look at these tutorials:

• What Looks Good In Black And White?
• How To Photograph Black And White Landscapes
• Photographing Textures On Buildings
• Tips On Photographing Textures

 

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Choosing the right lens for a Sony APS-C camera is genuinely difficult right now, because the options have multiplied fast and the differences between them aren't always obvious. Curtis Padley has been shooting Sony APS-C for six years and has run through enough glass to have strong, experience-backed opinions about what actually works. 

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The chances of us ever getting the opportunity to travel back in time to witness one of the many historical conflicts that the world's seen is very slim. However, the sound of guns firing and an army marching can still be heard at battle re-enactments right across the country and they're the perfect place for a photographer to snap a few images of times long gone.
 

1. What Gear Do I Need? 

You need a good, long lens as for safety reasons, you won't be able to get right among the action. But also pack your wide lens for opportunities after the battle's over. Spare memory cards, batteries and protective gear for yourself and your camera should also have a place in your bag. Take your tripod along too as in the middle of a battle when you're trying to track the action, having your camera on a tripod will make life much easier. If it's a popular event, you may find a monopod is easier to manage and won't take up as much room.

 

2. Safety First

Before we talk about technique, we must mention safety. Safety is the number one concern of all the people taking part and the event organisers. You must obey the rules and if you're not allowed in certain areas please don't ignore the ropes and barriers that are put in place. They're there to protect you and the people around you and stepping over them to get a better photo will only upset the proceedings.

 

3. Arrive Early

Battle re-enactments are popular events and crowds are challenging at the best of times and that's before you've got your camera out! If you can, arrive early or stay later than the main crowd to maximise your chances of getting a collection of good shots.

 

4. Do Your Research

Prior to the main event familiarise yourself with the battlefield and find the best positions to photograph from. Find a spot that gives you a good viewpoint of the whole field and don't forget about the background - you'll be very annoyed when you get home if your brilliant battle shot is ruined by a burger van sitting in the background.

 

5. Capture Portraits

At some events, there will be a camp which you can walk around, soaking up the sights and sounds of the past. There will be plenty of people who often do expect to be photographed but do remember it's always polite to ask permission first. It will also give you the chance to tell them a little bit about yourself and explain what you're trying to achieve. This will also give you the chance to make sure the little details are correct. You'll be surprised how asking someone to fasten a shirt higher or move a strand of hair out of the way will make a big difference to your final image.
 

6. Follow The Action

Once the battle begins, stick to your chosen position and make sure all of your attention is on the action. As your camera's on a tripod you can use it as a spotting scope to home in on the action. Make sure you listen to the people who are part of the re-enactment too as the orders they shout out will help you know where you need to focus on the field. You'll find fast shutter speeds are needed and make sure you have your panning technique perfected before you arrive so you don't miss a shot.
 

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1. Camera Choices

If you have one, use an interchangeable lens camera but compact or smartphone users shouldn't think this means they can't shoot good portraits. Select Portrait Mode as this will tell the camera you want to use a wider aperture to throw the background out of focus. It also helps if you use the telephoto end of the zoom, just keep the camera steady as shake can be emphasised when working closer to your subject.
 

2. Lens Options

You want to throw the background out of focus and using a telephoto lens will make this job easier. A telephoto lens also creates a more flattering perspective.

  3. Should I Use A Tripod?

Longer lenses may create a more pleasant and natural-looking portrait but when you're working hand-held shake can be a problem. To combat this, don't let your shutter speed value drop lower than your focal length when working hand-held or just put your camera on a tripod.

 

4. Sun Direction

Soft morning or evening light is good for portraits but sometimes we don't have a choice but to shoot when the sun's more direct and high in the sky. Most people will position themselves so the sun sits behind them, facing their subject but this will only cause them to squint. Instead, position your subject so the sun sits behind them. This will diffuse the light and make yoke subject 'pop' out of the frame by creating a halo of light around their head. Just remember you'll need to meter from your subject's face to get your exposure right as if you meter manually from the background, you'll end up with a silhouetted subject.

 

 

5. Shadows

Shooting with the sun behind your subject can leave unsightly shadows under the nose and eyes. A pop of flash will remove them but this can look a little artificial, particularly if you're using a compact camera where the flash is more direct, so try using a reflector to bounce extra light into the shot. If you're working alone you'll need to compose your shot and set the camera on a self-timer or use a remote release to set the exposure going so you can hold the reflector in place. If your subject's hands aren't going to be in the shot you could get them to hold it or rope a friend into being your assistant if you can. If you do want to use flash, take it off your hotshoe (if using a DSLR) and bounce it off a reflective surface to diffuse it.

 

6. Find Shade

The light in shaded areas is more even and is less likely to have spots of bright light and harsh shadows, making them easier to work with.

 

7. Background

Even though you're outdoors you don't want the background to overshadow your subject so make sure it's not too busy and throw it out of focus. A wider aperture and putting some distance between your subject and the background will help you achieve this.

  8. Natural Props

You're in the outdoors so use the trees, leaves and flowers around you in your portraits. Subjects sometimes don't know what to do with their hands and can look awkward as a result. To stop this, give them something to hold/lean on. Ask them to lean on a tree trunk or hold a branch. How about getting them to blow on dandelions? Or framing their faces with branches and leaves?

 

 

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For roughly two decades, the standard zoom lens started at 24mm. Before that, it started at 28mm or even 35mm. The 24-70mm f/2.8 became the default in the early 2000s and stayed there so long that the starting focal length became invisible. 24mm was simply where a standard zoom began, and nobody questioned it because there was nothing to question. 

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Following my recent speculation about M-mount lenses being the next big thing, the M-mount ecosystem has seen some truly exciting developments lately. Even in such a niche and crowded market, we are still getting frequent releases from companies like Thypoch. And after all the good releases, they still manage to surprise us every now and then to give us a reason to pick their lens. 

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Street photography has become so codified that much of it now looks like photographers photographing other photographs. That sentence might sound unfair, perhaps even provocative. After all, we are living through a golden age of technical accessibility. Cameras have never been better, books are everywhere, and great work from every continent is just a swipe away. Knowledge that once took decades to acquire is now available in a 20-minute YouTube video. In the first years of the 2000s, we did not have anywhere near the access to information that we have today.

 

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Let's talk about a few careful composition choices I made at sunrise in a quiver tree forest of Namibia, and how good ambient light helped to make the landscape photography shoot successful. 

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The Nikon Z f launched in October 2023, and the camera market has shifted considerably since then. New options from Nikon and other brands have changed what you're giving up when you choose that retro body. 

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Amazon Prime Day is approaching. Every year at this time, those looking to buy new equipment mark these days—June 23 to 26 this year—on their calendars, as it is often one of the few times a year to bring home a long-desired camera at a price significantly lower than usual.

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Shooting in Fiordland National Park, New Zealand, is a test of patience, adaptability, and a willingness to get soaked. Shainblum's time there produced some striking results across two very different focal lengths, and the decisions he made in the field are worth paying attention to. 

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The Leica D-Lux 8 sits in an unusual spot: a Micro Four Thirds compact with a fixed zoom lens, priced like a premium tool, marketed as something you actually carry. After nearly 19 months and close to 3,000 images, Peter Fritz has moved well past first impressions, and his conclusions are more nuanced than the usual early review. 

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Failing at real estate photography almost never comes down to shooting technique. The business side kills most careers before the craft ever gets a chance to. 

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Stately homes are, in many cases, open to the public. Some are still lived in, with sections cordoned off from public viewing, but the rest is accessible, often with restrictions - no touching, often no flash and sometimes no photography. For those properties that do allow photography, you have the opportunity to photograph grand designs, walls with magnificent paintings, and rooms with exquisite furniture and other items.

1. What Gear Do I Need?

You will need an ultra-wide-angle lens to record interior room scenes something in the region of 10-20mm is best. For more detailed shots of the various trophies, antique collections and paintings you'll need a longer lens of around 100mm. Your standard zoom will be fine for most of the finer details. Tripods can't always be used so do check before you pack yours in the car. You're often asked to leave rucksacks and bags at reception areas so make sure you have a comfortable strap. A polarising filter will be very useful as many antique displays will be behind glass and the filter will help reduce reflections allowing the items behind the glass to be recorded clearly. 

  2. The Entrance

When you enter a stately home the first area is the reception area. This is usually a grand affair with a huge central or split staircase. There's often plenty of window light for illumination and often lots of wall decorations. If you're charged an entrance fee there's likely to be a ticket table to obstruct a full view and it's the area where you'll find the most visitors wandering around and getting in the way too. So timing is important and finding the best angle for a wide-angle shot. It's worth hanging around for a quiet moment to get the best shot.

  3. Around The Home

You're then usually ushered along in a certain direction around the house. Attendants will be in many of the rooms keeping an eye on possessions while helping visitors with facts about the house. If a 'no-camera' rule is present they will be vigilant in preventing your photography. If not feel free to fire away, but try to avoid getting helpers in shots. Watch for mirrors in back walls of rooms that will reflect the tourists and also try to avoid getting barrier ropes in shot. It can be quite challenging. Ropes can often be cloned out, but stand on tiptoes to make sure the rope is lower to the ground and not obscuring some important element that would be harder to clone out than a section of floor or carpet.

 

  4. Photographing Detail

In rooms that have glass, cabinets make sure your polarising filter is attached to reduce reflections and glare. For birds and stuffed animals try to crop tight on one creature. Focus on intricate carvings you'll find on furniture. Shoot the ceilings as patterns. If you include a chandelier watch the exposure - they are bright while the rest of the room will be dark and come out underexposed if you're not careful. If you can hold the camera steady (use a door or wall as support ) take a bracketed exposure sequence and combine in an HDR program later.

5. Indoor ISOs

If the room is dark increase the camera's ISO setting as far as you can without noise. Most cameras can safely go up to ISO800 without too much noise. Don't forget to turn it back when you go outside or into much brighter rooms.

 

 

6. Outdoor Architecture Shots

For outside shots of architecture and statues use a tripod to keep the camera steady. Look for positions where sculptures can be positioned in front of the grand architecture and shoot with a wide aperture to throw the background building out of focus - frame tightly for even more impact. Use the polarising filter if the statue or building is set against a blue sky as the filter will make the blue darker and the stone will stand out better.

Try walking around the grounds to find the best vantage points for an overall view of the house. At Chatsworth House, for example, you can get a shot from the gardens with the fountain and lake in front. While a walk onto the road into the estate provides a view from the bridge and climbing down to the edge of the riverbank gives a view with the bridge arch as a frame.

  7. Grounds & Gardens

Stately houses usually have magnificent gardens often designed by landscape gardeners and may include spectacular water features of cascades and fountains. Shoot into the light to get a backlit spray of water. Use a slow shutter speed to blur the path. Focus in close on gargoyles as the water spurts out of the mouth.

Visit the herb garden and shoot from a low viewpoint to get the sprigs of flowers against the sky. Then visit the greenhouses for more exotic plants and cacti. Depending on the time of year you will find a vibrant range of spectacular colours in the well-kept gardens of stately homes.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Street photography still speaks about people, encounter, and human communication in the moment. Much of the practice already uses people differently. People become form, scale, color, silhouette, and rhythm inside the frame. Has the photographer begun to use people as compositional material? 

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Sharpness is one of the first things many photographers judge in a landscape image, but it is also one of the areas that caused me the most frustration when I was starting out. I used to come home convinced that I had captured strong images, only to load them onto a larger screen and realize the foreground was soft or the distant detail was not as sharp as I thought it would be. At the time, I blamed gear more than technique. I assumed my camera or lens was holding me back, when in reality the biggest issue was my process in the field. 

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 I used to think all fog machine liquid was the same. Never once had I considered that a new fog formula could be far better than what I've been using for decades. PMI's Vanishing Formula Kit has changed my opinion, and today I test it against three of the most popular portable fog systems on the market. 

 

Portable fog machines have become one of my favorite tools for photography and filmmaking. Whether I'm shooting portraits, product photography, miniatures, or cinematic video, adding a little smoke, mist, or haze can instantly elevate a scene.

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The Canon EOS R6 used to be a simple recommendation. You wanted a full frame hybrid that did a little of everything well without costing as much as the R5, so you bought the R6, and that was the end of the conversation. That clarity is gone. The line has split into three very different cameras that happen to share a name, and choosing between them now means knowing what kind of shooter you actually are. The good news is that once you sort that out, the right answer becomes obvious, because Canon has aimed each of these bodies at a genuinely different person. 

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Choosing a compact travel camera is harder than it looks, especially when two solid options sit at very different price points with very different sensor sizes, lenses, and feature sets. The Fujifilm X100VI and the Panasonic Lumix LX10 both pitch themselves as small, capable everyday cameras, but they take genuinely different approaches to getting there. 

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