Photography News

Over the years, I've looked at a ridiculous number of photography websites. Partly because I'm nosy, partly because I do website critiques, and partly because during lockdown, I worked for a marketing agency and did a lot of UX work. After a while, patterns start appearing. 

Interestingly, most of the problems I repeatedly see have very little to do with photography itself. In a lot of cases, the actual work is great. The problem is how everything is being presented.

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Have you ever wanted to run away to a cabin in the woods, live off grid, and just create freely? It sounds like a dream, but modern photo and video workflows require too much power to make it a reality, that is, until now. I traveled to Paris for the global launch of the Bluetti Balco series to find out how its new plug-and-play solar ecosystem lets creators generate and store their own energy on location. 

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The camera industry is built on a ladder. At the bottom, there is a $600 to $800 entry-level body with a kit zoom, often no in-body stabilization, a single card slot, a plastic build, and a thin lens ecosystem. At the top, there is a $3,000 to $6,000 professional body with IBIS, dual card slots, weather-sealing, a magnesium alloy chassis, and an extensive lens lineup. In between, there are two or three rungs spaced at $500 to $1,000 intervals, each one adding features the rung below deliberately omitted.

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The Sigma 100-400mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary sits in an awkward middle ground that most people dismiss without thinking too hard about it. Street shooters call it too big. Wildlife photographers call it too short. Row thinks they're both wrong. 

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Welcome to the June Critique the Community!  For this contest/critique, we are doing another abstract theme that should allow more photographers to enter. For this month we want to see your best photograph that feature "Motion Blur". If you have images that showcase fast moving subjects, camera shake, long shutter speeds, or anything else that epitomizes motion blur, we would love to see them!

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Bryce 2 defined the visual language of '90s CGI, and almost nothing in modern 3D software can replicate it. The raw ray tracing engine, the playful UI designed by Kai Krauss, the fog, the chrome, the fractal mountains — modern renderers have layered so many features on top of that foundation that getting back to that specific look is nearly impossible without going back to the source. 

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The Viltrox AF 90mm f/2.2 EVO is the company's latest in its budget-friendly, compact line of lenses for APS-C systems, and it offers excellent image quality and value for the dollar. 

Design and Build Quality  

The 90mm is compact and light, providing a 135mm equivalent focal length in full frame terms. Weighing in around 345 g, one almost forgets that it's a 135mm focal length. I took the lens around for a day of shooting attached to a Fujifilm X-T5, and barely noticed it was there. 

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An image of a little owl running along a branch has been awarded the Photo of the Week accolade this week.

The image, taken by ePz member sherlob, is titled 'The Trot'. This is a well-timed capture of a wild little owl moving across its perch. The bird is photographed on the move. The feathers show rich brown and white patterns, and the exposure keeps the fine details of the plumage clear and sharp.

A fast shutter speed keeps the owl and the branch sharp and clear. The composition places the bird on the right side of the frame as it moves toward the left. The soft, out-of-focus background ensures the focus stays on the owl and its behaviour.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

 

For good garden photos your garden needs to be looking at its best and the light has to be right. But as you look out of the window at it every day, you'll see when your plants and flowers look their best and you can easily be out there with your camera in minutes snapping that perfect garden shot.

  1. What Gear Do I Need? 

Your standard zoom is fine but if you want to get closer to the flowers to hide the weeds you need a macro lens. If it's very bright attach a polariser to your lens to reduce glare and consider using a tripod that has a centre column that can be used in a horizontal position to get closer to flowerheads. A small reflector will help direct light to where it's needed and you don't even have to purchase one as you can create your own from foil and card. 
 

2. Avoid Bright, Sunny Days 

To be honest, bright days when the sun is high in the sky can be awkward as the colours will be too harsh and you'll have deep, dark shadows. A lot of flower photographers prefer early mornings, but a still evening's just as good. In fact, why not get outside after work and enjoy the warmth of the evening while you take your photographs? Hazy days when it's a little cloudy but the sun's still shining are perfect, though, as the clouds act as a giant softbox, diffusing the light.
 

3. Dealing With Windy Days 

If there's a gentle breeze in the air crank up the shutter speed or stick your camera on a tripod and slow the speed right down if you fancy taking some experimental shots.

 

4. How Green Is Your Garden? 

If your garden's too green you may need to narrow your focus as even though your eyes can see the spots of colour your camera might not. Getting in closer will also hide the weeds and broken shed windows you want to disguise or you could use them as subject as weeds can be just as photogenic as roses.

 

 

5. Create Paths And Frames 

If you have a path use it to guide the viewer's eye from the front to the back of the image, creating depth. A small aperture will give plenty of depth-of-field. Give your garden a 'frame' too as with portraits, they can be improved with one. Entrances, arches, gates, hedges and overhanging trees all work well. Also, look beyond your garden hedge and fence to see if you have a view that can add to your garden landscape.

 

6. Shoot Some Macro Work 

If you do get your macro lens out make sure you fill the frame and blur the background with a larger aperture. Flowers are nice but look for interesting leaves too as these often have textures flowers don't have. Keep your eye out for insects such as butterflies who can be found on a cool morning with their wings open warming up too.

 

7. Make The Most Of Showers 

If a gentle shower's fallen get outside as you can get great images. Close-ups of water droplets on blooms can look great. Of course, if you haven't had any rain for a while, fill a water spray or even a watering can and provide your own 'dew' or 'rain'.

 

8. Take Garden Photos All Year Round 

Don't think this is just a one evening project either as different seasons, mood and light give you endless photographic opportunities right on your doorstep.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

If you've ever wondered whether sticking to one genre limits your growth as a visual artist, this video makes a strong case that it doesn't. 

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Finding a great photo isn't always about being in a great location. The ability to see a story or a feeling in whatever's in front of you is one of the most practical skills you can build as someone with a camera. 

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Music festivals are not only fun, they're great places to capture images of bands performing. Plus, you'll also be able to capture quite a few cracking candids of fellow festival-goers enjoying the music, rides, food and probably an alcoholic beverage or two! For those heading to a music festival this year, here are a few photography tips for you to have a think about before you start setting your tent up. 

 

1. Keep your things safe

You need to know where your camera and bag is at all times. If you don't want to carry your kit and other valuables all of the time, invest in a locker. Many festivals are now offering secure lock-up facilities, for a small fee of course. Even if you do have to pay they are handy things to have, particularly if it rains as you can stick all of your electrical equipment in them. 

 

2. Be ready

When you're squashed in a crowd of people who are trying to get closer to the stage trying to pull a camera out of your bag is really hard work so it's best to have it in your hands ready before the crush begins. Don't be tempted to put it on a camera strap either as even though it will stop it falling onto the floor if it gets tugged while on your neck you can injure yourself. If you want to make sure you're not going to lose it put a smaller strap on it and place it over your wrist.

Alternatively, use your smartphone to capture photos as they're just as good as many compact cameras nowadays and you'll probably have it on you anyway!
 

3. Have a plan

They'll be plenty of information online about who's playing what stage but it's worth buying a programme when you arrive and keeping it with you so you know who's playing when. That way you can circle the bands you'd like to photograph/watch or use is to make your own timetable, showing where and when each band will play. If you don't want to spend money you'll find the line-up posted around the camping areas of the festival which you can snap a photo of or make notes from.

 

 

 

4. Get to the stage well before the band is on

If you're heading for the main stage there's usually quite a big gap between the crowd and the stage so arriving early to get a spot at the front is advised. If you don't unless you have a very long lens, the bands will look a little bit small and you'll have trouble filling the frame when you're shooting individual shots of the band members (as demonstrated in the shot below). You can get closer at the smaller stages but if it's a particularly popular group you're heading to shoot, you'll still need to be there within plenty of time otherwise you'll have rows and rows of heads in front of you. If you intend to stay by the main stage, which is usually out in the open, make sure you take plenty of water with you, as dehydration can be a big problem on hot summer days. It's also a real pain to get back to the front once you leave!

Try to avoid standing where speakers will clip the side of your shots and avoid framing up with cables, monitors and other stage clutter in the background if you can. Sometimes all you have to do is wait for the artist you're photographing to move to a different spot on the stage to get the clutter-free shot you're after.

 

5. Compose your shots

As you won't be able to move very far, the ways you can compose your shots will be limited and you'll just have to rely on the band getting into poses/positions you think are worth photographing. Capturing the guitarist in a mid-air jump or the lead singer leaning over for the crowd are shots everyone's seen a million times before but that's not to say you shouldn't capture them. If you struggle to get the shots you want, head for a band you don't want to photograph but don't mind listening and just watch them on stage. You'll soon be able to pre-empt what they're going to do next so when you do lift your camera up, you'll be ready to take the shot.

 

6. When the sun goes down

As the light fades, getting decent shots of the stage becomes more of a challenge. You really need to be in the few front rows as the sun sets if you want to capture shots where you can see who's on stage. As most compacts try and use flash when it gets dark make sure you turn it off. If you don't turn your flash off you'll probably end up with a shot that shows a few rows of heads and nothing behind them. Your camera will have also picked the settings it thinks are suitable for when you're using flash so a short shutter speeds, small aperture and a low ISO will have further reduced the amount of light in your shot. You can increase the ISO manually but just keep an eye out for noise as some compact cameras struggle with this when you start to use higher ISO settings. If there's a particularly interesting light show happening on stage and you're some distance away try switching to Firework mode to capture it.

 

 

7. Try and standstill

It can be hard to do when you're in a crowd but by doing so you'll reduce the amount of shake in your shot, particularly when the sun's set and your camera's having to use longer shutter speeds when any movement can be easily picked up in your final photograph. If you have a barrier in front of you use it for support or lean on a wall that's behind you. If you're in the middle of the crowd just hug your arms as close to your side as possible and try and keep your hands still.
 

8. Remember the crowd

Try turning around and photographing the mass of people around you. It's not as easy if you're stood low down but get up higher on a slight hill/banking and it's easy to capture a sweeping shot of the festivities. Some compacts have panorama modes which can be handy when you're trying to take wider shots such as this. Do snap a few candids as you walk around as you're guaranteed to find plenty of interesting characters in the three or four days you're there. Plus, there will be plenty of stalls and tents for you to capture shots of as well. 

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily  Forum Competition

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to pink (Day 21- 'The Sea').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 17

Abstract

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Day 18

Running

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Day 19

Animals & Wildlife

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Day 20

Landmarks

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  Day 22

Leaves & Tree

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Day 23

Swans

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

 

Holiday season is approaching again and the time of year when you'll no doubt be dusting off your old camera or considering buying a new one. This article will help you take better pictures, avoid disasters and maybe make you think a bit more before you press the shutter.

 

1. Individuality

You only have to go to any popular tourist spot to see camera-clutching individuals out in their droves, each clambering to the same old spots to take the same old pictures. I wouldn't be surprised if the ground is eroded in certain places as certain spots have provided support for thousands upon thousands of people pointing their cameras to take pictures. Now here's an idea, how about some tripod manufacturer concreting one of their best selling models into place so you can get exactly the same picture! What I'm eluding to is it's better if you can get off the beaten track to take your pictures. If you're in a coach party and the coach stops, walk up the road and see if there's a better viewpoint. Coaches have to stop in lay-bys and that's not always the ideal vantage point. Often shrubs or trees block the view, and there's likely to be rubbish strewn all over the place. But the main thing is you won't have the same picture that everyone else has. You can usually buy those at the postcard shop.

 

 

2. Look For Ideas

Talking of which, postcards, taken by the professionals, often give you ideas and point out not only the obvious beauty spots but also the less ventured locations. When you stop in an unfamiliar village or town, it's always worth checking out the local postcards to see what previous photographers have discovered, and then plan your trip to include that location and take your own versions of the postcard shots. Use their ideas as inspiration for your own pictures, and use these in other locations. Of course with the internet available almost anywhere you can also do your research online, either before you go or at your hotel before you head off for a day of exploration. 

 

 

3. Wonky Won't Work

There are several simple tips to help you take better pictures with your camera. The main thing is to check the viewfinder just before you take the shot. Look for obvious problems such as trees or lampposts growing out of heads, horizons at an angle and fingers straying over the lens. Also, avoid covering the flash when taking pictures indoors. Using a tripod will help ensure the horizons straight and you can also buy Hot Shoe Bubble mounts that can be placed onto the hot shoe of a camera to help ensure your camera is level.

 

 

4. In The Sun

If you're lucky you'll have good weather, lucky for your tan, but maybe not for your picture taking. The sun when high in the sky casts hard shadows and bright highlights that create too much contrast making detail in shadow areas become black and highlights washed out. Here's where your built-in flash will help. No, it's not just for parties and indoor frolics, the flash can be used to put detail back into shadow areas and also adds a sparkle to eyes (known as a catch-light). Use it when you can see a harsh dark shadow under the nose and chin. 

 

  5. On The Beach

If you're a sun worshiper and head for the beach watch your camera. Cameras don't like salt water or sand and if either element comes into contact it's a recipe for disaster. You can buy a special waterproof pack that houses the camera and lets you take pictures with it in place, or you could buy a waterproof camera or a single-use splashproof camera if you prefer. Of course, keeping your camera and lenses in a camera bag when not in use will reduce the amount of sand and sea-spray that gets into contact with it. An everyday backpack will have more than enough room for camera gear plus other accessories you may need for a day at the beach. 

 

 

6. Photos Of People

When you go abroad you're likely to see interesting characters and will be eager to snap these locals in their natural environment. While some will be happy to pose, you must remember you are invading their privacy so don't go prodding your lens here, there and everywhere without understanding the culture of the locals. You can often go on tourist trips to villages that have been set up to show what life is like in the real villages and, as you've paid to go, there's no harm taking pictures. If you want to tread further afield do some research before you go.

 

 

 

7. Insured?

Lastly, if you have an expensive camera make sure your insurance covers it. You don't want to damage your camera or have it stolen before you find you're not covered for damage or theft.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

The Sony a7R VI arrived this month with 66.8 megapixels, a fully stacked sensor, 30 frames per second, and 8.5 stops of stabilization. The spec sheet is extraordinary. But the feature that will matter most to photographers who use their cameras after dark is one that does not appear in any resolution or burst-speed comparison: the rear buttons glow. 

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The first mistake people make when photographing Día de Muertos is thinking they already understand it.

The makeup seems easy to understand.The candles seem symbolic enough.The flowers, the smoke, the parades, the altars. Everything appears visually generous from the very beginning, almost too generous. Mexico City during those days feels like the kind of place photographers dream about: chaos, beauty, theater, death, celebration, all colliding in the same streets at the same time.

And this is exactly why it can deceive you.

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I remember so vividly the excitement of when I first started taking pictures. It was all new, new, new. "Oh my God, what's this? Did you just see that?" No matter what it was I photographed, I felt a rush of pure exhilaration. Even now, 24 years later, I am thrilled to say that I still feel that rush. 

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Choosing between the OM System 100-400mm and the OM System 50-200mm f/2.8 is one of the more genuinely difficult calls in the Micro Four Thirds wildlife kit. Both cover similar ground in terms of size and weight, but they get to their results in completely different ways, and picking the wrong one for how you actually shoot will cost you. 

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The Fujifilm X-M5 sits at around $800 and punches well above that price with 6.2K open gate video, a 26-megapixel APS-C sensor, a mechanical shutter, and a hot shoe — specs that most competitors at this price point simply don't offer. After a full year of real-world use, McClure has a clear-eyed take on where this camera succeeds, where it falls short, and who it actually makes sense for. 

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Knowing your gear is one thing. Knowing what to do when the shot isn't working is another. This breakdown of seven real wildlife situations covers the kind of fieldcraft that doesn't show up in spec sheets or camera manuals. 

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