Photography News

 

Leading up to Halloween you may like to spend some time in your local graveyard... you will find plenty to photograph and much of it will be in the detail. You should remember that graveyards are, by their very nature, places that should be treated with respect, but don’t let that put you off: as long as you behave yourself you shouldn’t get into too much trouble.

  1. Kit Choices 

A zoom lens with close focusing capabilities will be useful and a tripod will certainly improve the quality of your pictures. If you fancy doing something a little more dramatic you could also consider using some 'off camera' lighting, either a flash or even a torch.
 

2. Detail Is King Here

First, look around for interesting details, there shouldn’t be any shortage of these. They could be stone, lichen or moss, text on the gravestones, sculpture, ironwork, trees or the flowers left on the graves. When you have found something that interests you, look at it carefully and decide how best to make a picture out of it. Consider where the light is coming from, what angle will best suit the subject and how tight you should frame it. It is these decisions that will make the pictures ‘work’ or not. If you are getting in really close then try using different apertures: isolating the detail by shooting wide open or stopping right down to get the subject sharp from front to back. 

 

3. Think About What Distractions 

When you are looking at detail, it is usually best to try and frame in such a way that there is no distraction in the foreground or background – unless you are making some specific use of them. To do this, you may need to get right in close. If your camera then struggles to find something to focus on, try switching to manual, focus as close as the lens will permit and then move the camera to get the subject sharp.

  4. Don't Be Afraid Of The Dark 

You can also get some spooky results by waiting until it is dark and then shooting with the camera on a tripod and ‘painting’ with a torch. Get the camera focused on what you want to photograph, a gravestone for instance, set the ISO to around 200 and the shutter to ‘B’ then do a test, open the shutter and ‘paint’ with your torch. With digital cameras, you can see the result straight away so review the picture and adjust the amount of time you take to do your ‘painting’. If your torch is not bright enough you might start to get problems with noise, but it is easier to get subtle shading if you have a little longer so don’t use a super bright torch. It may take a while to get it right, but it’s very rewarding when it works.   

Your passport photo got rejected because of a shadow. Not a dramatic one. A soft gradient under your jaw, maybe a quarter-shade darker than your cheek, the kind of thing you would never notice and the clerk who handed the print back probably could not have described either.

 

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Planning a landscape photography trip is something I spend a considerable amount of time doing, and living here in Ireland means that checking the weather is an important part of that process. The conditions can change quickly, and even when you use several weather forecasting apps, there is never a guarantee that things will work out as you hoped. However, I have learned that waiting for a forecast that promises perfect conditions can mean missing opportunities that were worth pursuing in the first place. 

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Sony's new 400mm f/4.5 and 600mm f/6.3 primes come in lighter and cheaper than the Nikon lenses they closely resemble, and that puts a real decision in front of anyone who shoots birds and wildlife. Long glass is usually the most expensive and physically demanding part of a wildlife kit, so a few hundred grams and a four-figure price gap can shape what you carry for years.

 

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A telephoto lens pointed at a sea of fog turns one broad, washed-out view into dozens of small pictures: a single ridge, a clump of treetops, a slow waterfall of mist spilling over a hill. Fog shifts by the minute and the best light on it can vanish in seconds, so the decisions you make before anything happens determine whether you come home with frames or just a nice morning.

 

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A peaceful scene of two wild swimmers captured by Mike43 at Derwentwater in the mist has been chosen as our Photo of the Week.

There is plenty to love about this image, from the pink and purple tones in the sky to the mist hanging over the water and the dark outline of the trees along the shore. The wooden jetty adds to the setting, while the two brave swimmers entering the cold waters of Derwentwater stand out against the soft colours and misty backdrop. The ripples across the water and the soft light in the sky make this a lovely landscape to enjoy.

It’s a calm and atmospheric photograph of an early morning swim in the Lake District.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we'll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. See the terms & conditions and prize procedure for more information.

It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards! Want to be our next POTW winner? Just upload an image to our gallery where you'll also find all of our past POTW winners.

For about a decade, glass-smooth skin and spotless frames marked a careful retoucher, and that exact look is now what image generators produce best. If a client scrolling your portfolio can't tell your work from a prompt, they have one less reason to book you.

 

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Open gate recording, in-body stabilization, and anamorphic desqueeze have become the most requested features on compact cinema cameras, and the Sony FX5 is the first Sony to offer all three in one body. Whether those features can run at the same time affects how you rig, monitor, and shoot, especially if you work handheld with anamorphic glass.

 

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Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

Objects which look like they’re growing out of people’s heads, unwanted ‘hot spots’, unsightly rubbish and general clutter are just some of the things which can spoil a shot thanks to them pulling attention away from your main subject. However, with a few simple adjustments, you can have clutter-free backgrounds that’ll leave all attention where it’s meant to be, as shown in the image below.

 

1. Make Sure You Check The Frame

Ok, it may seem like something rather obvious to list, however, it’s a simple step some of us forget to do, especially when we don’t have much time to take the shot. But taking the time to study the background of the frame can stop unsightly highlights and objects spoiling your shots.

 

2. If Possible, Remove Clutter

So, you’ve checked the frame and seen there are a few unsightly elements which means the next step is to remove them. In some places this can physically mean picking objects up and moving them out of frame, however, this isn’t always possible as you’re not always taking photos in locations where you can just pick up and move objects as you wish. When working in locations such as this, you’ll have to do one of the following that’s listed further down the page instead.

 

 

 

3. Move Locations Or Positions

Try hiding the distracting object with your subject or if it’s not possible, see if moving a couple of steps to the left or right may help. Again, it’s a simple and quite obvious thing to do but it can make a huge difference to the overall look of the final shot.

 

4. Be Patient

If you’re shooting in a busy town centre or in another location where there are lots of people walking through your shot, set your gear up, position your subject and just wait for your background to clear. If you have people trying to be a nuisance, pulling faces and generally being annoying in the background, just patiently wait for them to move on as they’ll get bored a lot sooner than you will.

 

5. Change Your Depth Of Field

Using a larger aperture to throw your background out of focus (and creating bokeh) can hide distracting objects and allow all attention to fall on your subject which is pin-sharp. However, areas that are overexposed and strong colours can still pull the eye towards them even if they are blurry so just be aware of that and check for any objects that may do this.

 

 

6. Adjust Your Zoom

Cropping some of the background out by using your zoom to pull your subject in so they fill the frame more will remove distracting objects and ensure your subject is the main point of focus.

 

7. Move Your Feet

Don’t just think you can use your zoom to get closer to your subject. Move your feet to find a different angle, a better background or to simply ‘zoom in’ closer to your subject.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller 

 

8. Use Simple Backgrounds

Plain walls, studio backgrounds and even the sky can be used as backgrounds and they won’t distract your viewer. For smaller items, use pieces of card, paper or material as backgrounds which you can slip behind your subject, hiding whatever unsightly items are behind it.

 

9. Change Your Angle

If you can’t move your subject you’ll have to move. Try shooting from a lower position so you can use the sky, for example.

 

10. Edit In Post Production

Even though it’s always best to get it right in camera, you can edit your shots during post-production to fix your background. You can, among many other things, clone, crop, remove backgrounds completely and adjust brightness levels of all or parts of your shots. Take a look at ePHOTOzine’s techniques for more editing tips.

 

  As photographers, when we think of mood, we think of stormy, dark and dramatic, but mood can equally relate to any lighting type that evokes a feeling. Photographically then, mood can readily be associated with weather conditions – calm and misty mornings, dramatic cloudy days with sunbeams and often, the most dramatic mood can be obtained on those days you might think offer less promise – as it only takes a break in stormy clouds to give a magnificent, moody image.

 

How To Capture Mood In Your Images

To capture dark and dramatic mood successfully, be prepared to wait for breaks in the weather, sometimes you just have to sit out the rainy spells – in the car if you're lucky; but when the weather breaks you can be rewarded with a few minutes really exciting lighting.

When the light does come, be prepared to work quickly. Good lighting doesn't wait for the photographer, and often its over just as quickly as it arrived, so think in advance whether you are going to need a graduated ND filter, or if you need to bracket the shot to put together an HDR (High Dynamic Range) picture. Don't wait for the light before considering that you need a filter or need to bracket exposures to cope with the contrast range, as when the light's gone – it's gone. Checking your histogram after the event to find that your exposure is wrong it's too late – you can't bring it back.

For misty, early morning moody images, again the weather forecast is an essential pre-planner – there is no point sleeping in to find that you've just missed a delicate, moody sunrise. Similarly, there is little point getting up early to find the weather isn't ideal.

The key to capturing mood is to pick the right day and location – as is all landscape photography, but the real secret is to be fully prepared for when the "mood" arrives.

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to JonnyNI (Day 20 - Vista and View).

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 18

Backlight

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Day 19

Cross Polarisation

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Day 21

Bad Weather Landscape

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Day 22

Kitchen Item

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  Day 23

'Busy' Theme

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Day 24

Town Architecture

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

The zoom lengths on compact cameras keep growing and even though this makes more photographic subjects accessible to compact users, it does bring one problem and that's camera shake.

Manufacturers do install modes and features to help combat the issue, such as the shake reduction, but there are still a number of things that you can do to ensure your images are sharp every time.

 

1. Use A Support

When you think of a camera that sits on a tripod your first thoughts will probably be of a DSLR but just because you're using a camera with a body much smaller than a DSLR doesn't mean you shouldn't use a support. This can be a tripod, monopod, something smaller such as a Gorilla Pod or even a beanbag. 
 

 

2. Use Your Camera's Self-Timer

Even when you're using a support the small action of pressing the shutter button can still move the camera slightly and cause shake. As a result, when shooting a static subject you can use your camera's self-timer function so there's a delay between you pressing the shutter button and the exposure beginning. 
 

3. Increase The ISO

As longer shutter speeds mean the camera has to be held still for longer periods of time, shake can be a problem, particularly when working hand-held. To increase the shutter speed you can switch to a higher ISO but do take care when increasing ISOs as noise will be introduced at some levels. Where possible, try to stay below ISO400. If long shutter speeds are a must, always use a support as working without one will just result in shake spoiling your shots.
 

4. Check The Image On Your LCD

As images can be previewed on the built-in LCD screens available on compact cameras it means that shots can be checked for sharpness before leaving the location you're shooting in. However, it's not always that easy to tell if a shot is sharp by just checking the screen so if your camera has the option, it's always worth using the zoom magnifier when previewing to get a closer look at the shot. 

 

 

5. Edit In Post Production

You can slightly sharpen images in various pieces of editing software but don't overdo it as the shot won't look right. Boosting the contrast a little can help as well, but again don't go too mad with it. There are ways to reduce noise, too if high noise is a problem. 

The children chose the spot. Nyancho NwaNri was photographing a ballet class at a free school in Lagos, Nigeria, when she asked the young dancers where else they wanted to be photographed, and they led her outside to a worn concrete platform. The frame she made there, "Of Grace and Concrete," won the 2026 Flickr x Black Women Photographers grant, the biggest award in the program's four cycles.

 

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Small cameras are no longer only a compromise. For interviews with people who are not used to being filmed, a two- or three-camera pocket setup can reduce the visible footprint of production while still giving the editor real multicam coverage. The question is whether that can also help the person in front of the camera behave more naturally.

 

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When you pick a camera system for video, you're also picking a lens mount, a color pipeline, and the answer you'll give every time a producer asks what you shoot on. Canon, Sony, Nikon, and Panasonic Lumix all make capable full frame mirrorless bodies, so the choice comes down to how each one holds up on paid jobs and what it costs you over the years.

 

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Most people learn to treat shutter speed as the last piece of the exposure puzzle, the number you dial in once aperture and ISO are set and the meter stops complaining. That habit hands one of your most expressive choices to the light meter, since shutter speed decides how motion looks in every frame, from a frozen athlete to a smeared highway at dusk.

 

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A sunset frame that looked luminous through the viewfinder often opens in Lightroom dark, a little noisy, and short on the warmth you remember. Getting that glow back is mostly a matter of the order you work in and how much room you leave yourself before you start masking.

 

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Every reason to make photography your full-time job has a flip side, and that flip side usually shows up after you've already left the steady paycheck behind. If you're weighing a jump from shooting on weekends to shooting for a living, the hard part is figuring out which of those tradeoffs you can actually live with.

 

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A – Aperture

When it comes to picking an aperture, you don't want to go too wide as this will shorten your shutter speeds so choose an aperture around f/8 or f/11 to start and go from there.

 

 

B – Bulb

Using the BULB setting will keep the shutter open until you take your finger off the shutter button (this is when a release is handy as you can keep the shutter open without having to touch the camera). This can be useful for light trails as you'll be able to take more control over the length of the exposure, stopping and starting it more precisely.

 

C – Compact Camera

If you're an owner of a newer compact camera you may be thinking you won't be able to try this technique but you could be wrong as many modern compacts now offer longer shutter speed ranges.

 

D – DSLR

Even though you can use a compact you're probably still better using a DSLR or an advanced smaller camera that has the power of a DSLR without the body size. This way you can guarantee you'll have the longer shutter speeds needed, plus the option of using Bulb mode (model depending).

 

E – Exposure times

There's no exposure time that's set in stone for this technique so you'll need to experiment until you find a shutter speed that gives you the results you're looking for. Although, a 10-30-second exposure should capture light trails perfectly.

 

F – Find A Location

It's often worth scouting for locations in the daytime so you're not wasting time when the sun's setting searching for ideal spots.

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

G – Guide The Eye

Compositional rules still apply here so don't forget the power of using lead-in lines in your shots. The light trails can be used as a line to lead the eye through the image to a point of interest which could be a town, city or building glowing in the background.

 

H – Height

Find a spot, after the sun begins to set, where vehicles will pass under/by you with their lights on. The most obvious is a bridge but any high vantage point will work. You could also find a spot that looks over a road that winds down the side of a hill so car lights are turned into sweeping s shapes. 

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

I – In The Car

Give the light trail technique an extra twist by shooting from a moving car. Obviously, you can't drive and control the camera at the same time so you'll need a willing friend to help you with this technique. For more tips on this form of light trail photography, have a read of this: Photographing Light Trails From A Car

 

J – Juxtaposition

To really create a sense of movement and pace, shoot your light trails in a built-up area where you can juxtapose still buildings, trees and other objects with the light trails created by traffic.

 

Photo by Joshua Waller

 

K – Keep Checking The LCD

As you'll be experimenting with shutter speeds you should view your images on the LCD screen after capture to see if the shutter speed you used was long enough. For example, you may find the light trail ends half way through the image rather than carrying on until the car has exited the frame which means you need a slightly longer exposure time to capture the full length of the light trails.

 

L – Low ISO

Keep your ISO as low as possible (100 if you can) so noise doesn't cause you too many problems.

 

M – Mount Your Camera On A Support

Due to the length of the shutter speeds you need to use some kind of support. A Tripod's best but you can use a monopod if you prefer.

 

N – Night

You may think that well after the sun has set is a good time for capturing images of light trails and there's nothing wrong with capturing shots at this time, however twilight and just after the sun has set can produce some rather cracking results. Not only will there be more ambient light but there will also be more traffic around which means more chances to get the shot right.

 

Photo by David Pritchard

 

O – Overexposed

Keep an eye out for spots of light such as street lamps overexposing as these bright dots of light spoil your images.

 

P – Patience

You can't expect to set-up, press the shutter and have the perfect shot so patience is very important for this technique. You could find yourself waiting a while for traffic to actually pass through your frame or for the ambient light to be just right, plus with the trail and error approach you could be outside a while.

 

 

Q – Traffic Queues

Find points in your town where you can guarantee large amounts of traffic will flow through. Crossroads can be perfect as they will create lines that criss-cross and move around each other in various directions.

 

R – Roundabouts

Instead of straight lines, why not set-up near or above a roundabout which will give you the opportunity to capture circular patterns of light in your shots.

 

S – Street Level

To give your light trail shots a different twist, don't head for a high vantage point. Instead, take a stroll around the streets, looking for locations where you'll be able to capture light trails from lower angles.

 

Photo by David Clapp

 

T – Trigger – Remote Or Cable

To reduce camera shake, trigger your camera without actually touching it via a remote / cable release. If you don't have one, you can use your camera's self-timer on its shortest setting.

 

U – Underexposed

If you find the shot's underexposed open up the aperture and just make it smaller if it's too bright. Try not to go too wide with your apertures, though, as this will result in more of the shot appearing out of focus. If you find the light trails to be too short you'll need to use a longer shutter speed to extend them through your shot.

 

V – Very Warm Clothing

Don't forget your warm clothing as temperatures are starting to drop lower as we head towards winter.
 

W – Wide-Angle Lens

If you're working from a car, you need to fix the camera, with a wide-angle lens on a tripod into the passenger seat well or back seat of the car. This will mean you'll be able to see the whole windscreen through the viewfinder. When using wider lenses out in the field for this technique, a lens hood will be useful for shielding the lens from ambient light.

 

X – X-Factor

Light trail photography is a great way to add drama and punch to your night-time urban shots and with a little practice, it's rather simple to master.

 

Photo by David Clapp

 

Y – You Should Consider Using Manual Focus

Due to the low light level and lack of contrast, your camera lens may end up continuously searching if you try to use auto focus so switch to manual for more control.

 

Z – Zooming & Panning

Get creative and experiment with zoom or try panning after pressing the shutter to introduce different effects. After all, this is a fun technique, plus you want to capture something original.  

 

   

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

Datacolor continues to invest in the ongoing development and enhancement of its SpyderPro software. Following the major feature upgrade introduced last year, its flagship display calibration solution now receives another significant enhancement: Deep Calibration mode. This new technology delivers an even higher level of color accuracy and elevates display calibration to a standard previously associated primarily with professional reference and proofing solutions.

In November of last year, Datacolor introduced the largest software update in SpyderPro's history. Key additions included 3D LUT export for calibrating external video monitors, support for modern display technologies such as OLED, QD-OLED, Mini-LED, and Apple XDR displays, the introduction of Device Preview Plus for simulating content appearance on smartphones, tablets, printers, and other output devices, as well as the integration of Content Credentials to increase transparency in digital content.

With the introduction of Deep Calibration, Datacolor takes the next important step forward in display calibration technology.

 

A New Standard for Color Accuracy

 

SpyderPro's existing Standard Calibration already delivers outstanding color accuracy, achieving an average Delta E00 of 1.26. A Delta E value between 1 and 2 is widely recognized throughout professional image editing, photography, and graphic design as the benchmark for color-critical applications.

The new Deep Calibration mode improves this result to an average Delta E00 of 0.83. This enables SpyderPro to surpass the Delta E00 1.0 threshold, below which color differences become virtually imperceptible to the human eye. Such performance is typically associated with high-end reference displays and professional proofing workflows.

 

How Does Deep Calibration Work?

 

The new calibration mode utilizes a significantly higher number of measurement points across the entire grayscale range. This allows color deviations to be detected and corrected with much greater precision.

 

Key benefits include:

• Improved red-green neutrality
• Reduced blue-yellow color casts
• Higher white point accuracy
• Enhanced grayscale precision
• Cleaner shadow detail
• A more comprehensive calibration report

 

In extensive comparison tests across a wide variety of displays, including OLED, Mini-LED, XDR, and traditional LED-LCD monitors on both Windows and macOS systems, Deep Calibration delivered measurable improvements on every display tested. On average, grayscale accuracy improved by 30%, while some displays achieved improvements of more than 50%.

 

Speed or Maximum Precision? The Choice Is Yours.

 

With the introduction of Deep Calibration, SpyderPro now offers two calibration modes designed to meet different workflow requirements.

 

Standard Calibration

• Professional color accuracy
• Average Delta E00 of 1.26
• Fast calibration process

 

Deep Calibration

• Advanced measurement methodology with significantly more measurement points
• Average Delta E00 of 0.83
• Approximately 30% higher accuracy

 

Users can now choose whether they prefer to achieve excellent calibration results quickly or require the highest possible level of color precision for the most demanding workflows.

 

Free Upgrade for Existing SpyderPro Customers

 

The new Deep Calibration mode is provided free of charge to existing SpyderPro owners as part of the latest software upgrade. Users of Spyder, SpyderX, or SpyderExpress can upgrade to SpyderPro via the Datacolor website and take advantage of these advanced calibration capabilities.

With the introduction of Deep Calibration, Datacolor once again demonstrates its commitment to continuously enhancing its products and delivering meaningful value to customers long after purchase through powerful software updates. For photographers, videographers, content creators, designers, and prepress professionals, this new feature unlocks a level of color precision that until now has only been achievable with significantly more expensive reference-grade solutions.

 

About Datacolor

Datacolor, a global leader in color management solutions, provides software, instruments, and services that ensure the accurate reproduction of colors in materials, products, and images. Leading brands, manufacturers, and creative professionals around the world have trusted Datacolor's innovative solutions for more than 50 years to consistently achieve the right color. The company provides sales, service, and support in more than 100 countries throughout Europe, the Americas, and Asia. For more information, visit www.datacolor.com.