Photography News

This is something everyone can have a go it. It doesn't matter if you live in a mansion or a flat or usually shoot landscapes or portraits as this will give you the chance to think out of the box a little and really help you improve your photography.

Of course, if you live on the coast or in the Highlands or Lakes, you have got it slightly easier than some. But there are pictures to be captured everywhere, you just have to get out there and find them!

If you really don't fancy shooting near your home pick a location you love or know well and see how only having a few meters to work in will make you think differently.

  Gear Suggestions

 

If you're not travelling far you can set out your full array of lenses on your side and return to pick up what you need although your standard zoom will do a perfectly good job.

If you do have a variety of lenses to pick from your macro lens will be good for giving the ordinary a unique twist while a longer telephoto will get you close to birds in the garden without having to be sat on the branch next to them. If you're out in the garden you may need a tripod when using a longer lens but otherwise working hand-held will be fine.

 

What To Shoot?

 

Look at everyday objects differently. See how a fork, TV remote or even a shoelace look close up through a macro lens. Or try setting yourself a little challenge: shoot household objects, certain packets or how about items beginning with a particular letter or number? Try shooting candids of neighbours or how about limiting the number of pictures you take?

You can go on a mini safari in your garden, photograph birds from your window or shoot the flowers that are now decorating our beds. Have a go at photographing micro landscapes on dull days or how about capturing raindrops as they fall down your windows or land on plants? If you don't mind early starts, you can shoot some photos of morning dew or spend some time with your pets, photographing their antics.

 

As the months warm-up you'll be able to spot Ladybirds to photograph but while the weather's still chilly, why not stay indoors and shoot some still life work: kitchen utensils, cutlery and food.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

I hate the idea of credits. It's like feeding quarters into an arcade game (yeah, I'm old), never sure how many it'll take before you get a decent run. After years of working with generative AI, the credit system feels like an ongoing beta trial designed to monetize trial and error. 

[Read More]

Fish Eyes by Sophia Spurgin

 

Winner of the 2026 London Camera Exchange Photographer of the Year, Sophia Spurgin, has  today collected a Canon RF 400mm prime lens from the LCE team at their Strand, London store.  Sophia beat 14,500 entrants to take top honour in this year’s competition with her stunning image  ‘Fish Eyes’ captured on a trip to Vietnam on a Canon EOS R5 Mark II camera. 

A retired teacher from Hertfordshire, Sophia is  a keen outdoor photographer, and the Canon RF 400mm F2.8L IS USM was top of her wish list. A super-telephoto model offering a fast f/2.8 aperture, exceptional portability and optical IS, the RF 400mm is an outstanding low-light performer, perfect for wildlife, sports and action photography. The much sought after lens is rarely in stock at UK retailers and required shipping directly from Canon in Japan.

Sophia Spurgin commented, “I’ve never owned a lens of such quality and wanted to mark my win  with something significant. I had never considered prime lenses previously, but now I’ve been able  to obtain this incredible equipment thanks to LCE. I’m looking forward to testing it out during my  travels this year.” 

 

Sophia Spurgin, LCE Photographer of the Year 2026 overall winner, holds her grand prize, the Canon RF 400mm f2.8L IS USM lens. © London Camera Exchange

 

LCE POTY comprises 14 different categories including the publicly voted ‘People’s Choice’ and  ‘Emerging Talent’ dedicated to photography students. Sophia was shortlisted in three categories  and was crowned winner of both the Travel category with ‘Fish Eyes’ and Wildlife category with 

‘Fighting Foxes in the Rain’ – as well as taking first place in the overall competition. She scooped a  total of £3,500 in LCE vouchers, to spend on equipment of her choice. 

Lee Harasyn, managing director of LCE, commented, “We’re thrilled that Sophia has been able to  acquire her dream lens as a result of winning LCE Photographer of the Year 2026, and can take  the next step up in her hugely successful photographic journey. We hope she’ll inspire others to  enter the competition next year and we can’t wait to see the images she’ll capture with this  fantastic piece of kit.” 

The LCE POTY 2026 Awards were presented in a ceremony at The Photography & Video Show at  the NEC, Birmingham. A gallery showcasing the finalists’ images was located close to the show’s  entrance and many of the shortlisted images were included in a special edition commemorative  book. Winners received a share of the £10,000 prize fund and a unique trophy to take home. There  are plans to tour the images at other locations around the UK this year. 

For more information, please visit the LCE POTY website.

 

About London Camera Exchange 

Founded in Guildford in 1956, London Camera Exchange is an employee-owned business and is  celebrating its 70th anniversary in 2026. With 26 high street stores nationwide, the company  delivers award-winning service and impartial expert advice. LCE stocks an extensive range of  cameras, lenses and optical gear from top brands – and is the go-to destination for trading in or  upgrading photographic equipment. Whether visiting in-store or online, LCE’s dedicated team is  always on hand to help customers capture their next great shot.

 

 

1. What Gear Will I Need? 

• Telephoto zoom lens – Gets you close to the window without having to climb a ladder
• Wide-angle lens – Useful for when the window's particularly large
• Tripod – In dark churches you need a sturdy tripod
• Remote release – minimise shake

 

2. Support

When you walk through the doors of a church you instantly notice how dark the interior is and as flash is banned from most historical buildings you'll be relying on long exposures to get your shot. As a result, a tripod and remote release are essential pieces of kit but if you're out for the day with the family and didn't plan on stumbling across a stained glass window you just had to photograph you need to look for a wall you can put your camera on or find a pillar you can rest against while you take your shot. Just remember to keep your arms tucked into your body and hold your breath while you fire the shutter to minimise shake.

 

Not all churches will allow photographers to use tripods or if they do there may be a fee so it's best to double-check before you start taking your shots.
 

3. Position

In an ideal world, you'd be able to use a ladder or even scaffolding to get you directly in line with the window to minimise distortion but as people would be a little upset if you started erecting poles in the middle of a church, you need to find a spot further back from the window and use a longer lens to zoom into the stained glass. If you can't find a position that lines you up with the centre of the window take the shot anyway as you can edit this as well as problems with converging verticals once you're back home.
 

4. Size

Some stained glass windows are so big that even with a wide-angle lens you can't get the whole window in-frame. You can take several shots of the window and stitch the images together when you're back home or you could forget about the big picture and focus in on the colourful detail.

Due to the size of the window and as you'll be looking up at them you will probably need a small aperture to ensure everything from the bottom to the top of the window is in focus.
 

5. Exposure

A bright window surrounded by dark interiors will confuse the camera's exposure system and you'll either get a shot where the window is too bright as the camera has compensated for the surroundings or a shot of a perfectly exposed window with black surroundings as the camera has taken its reading from the window light. One way to solve this problem is to take two shots, one exposed for the window and the other for the surroundings, then once you're back home you combine them to make one perfectly exposed shot. You must use a tripod and ensure the camera doesn't move if you do this as the slightest of nudges will mean the final shots don't line up correctly.

If you don't want to include any of the building's structure in the shot you can usually rely on the camera to meter correctly unless it's a really sunny day then you'll need to use exposure compensation.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

 

Portrait photography is a very popular subject and with so many ways you can capture a brilliant photo of a person, it's easy to see why it's one of the most uploaded genres to the ePHOTOzine Gallery. From capturing images outdoors with natural light to indoor shoots with a full lighting set-up, close-ups, candids and professional model shoots, there are plenty of themes and methods to keep a photographer occupied!

To get you off on the right path, we've put together 10 top tips all on portrait photography and, please, if you have any top tips of your own, we'd love to see them in the comments below. 

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK] 

1. Look Your Subject In The Eye

Make sure the eyes are sharp and breathe more life into your shot by adding catchlights into the eyes.

If you're photographing children get down to their eye level. This leads to a more natural posture as they don't have to look up. The shot will also be more personal and intimate, particularly if you crop in close so they're looking directly out of the frame.

2. Simple Backgrounds

Take a good look around your shot before you hit the shutter button. Make sure there are no lampposts growing out of your subject's head and that cars or rubbish bins aren't stealing your attention. Plain backgrounds will always work best, as they help place emphasis on your subject, however you can't always find a plain wall to take your shots against so make use of your camera's wider apertures and throw the distracting background out of focus.

 

3. Use Flash Outside

Bright sunlight will create ugly shadows on your subject's face so use a pop of flash to eliminate them. Try using the flash from the side as this will give the image more dimension. While on cloudy days you can leave your flash in your camera bag as the soft, diffused light the clouds help create is perfect for portraiture work.

For more tips on using flash outdoors take a look at our previous article – flash outdoors.

 

 

4. Play With Backlight

By placing the sun, window or studio light behind your subject you'll be able to create hair/rim light that lights the edge of your subject. This can really make your subject 'pop' out of the image as the outline of light acts as an extra layer keeping your subject separate from the background.

 

5. Be A Director

Most people won't know what pose works best or what light works where so make sure you talk to them, giving direction when needed. If you make the effort to have a conversion they'll become more relaxed in front of the camera too.

 

6. Don't Centre Everything

Standing centre stage may work for an actor but off the boards and in a photo that's not cropped you want your subject to be slightly to the left or right of the shot. This gives the shot a more pleasing perspective and interest. If your subject's not looking directly into the lens give your subject room to look into and if they're moving through the shot make sure there's space for them to step, run or cycle into.

Imagine a rule of thirds board that looks similar to a naughts and crosses board sat over your scene can help with composition. Take a look at our rule of thirds advice.
 

 

 

7. Create Candids

Candids are shots of people who aren't posed. This could be children playing with their toys, a groom chatting to his new bride quietly in a corner or your mum making a cup of tea. The key to candids is not taking your shot straight away. Wait until the person you're photographing has forgotten about the camera so they're focused on their activity before you take your shot. If you're out on a planned shoot try taking a few photos while you're on a break as your subject won't feel as self-conscious and you'll be able to capture a few natural-looking shots.

If you're working with children make sure they're having fun because the minute they get bored they'll turn unco-operative. Don't forget the odd prop such as balls and sweets. They'll rarely get turned down and they'll soon have them so occupied they'll have forgotten you're there with your camera.

8. Make A Frame

When something gets in the way of your shot the first thing you think to do is move but this isn't always necessary. Finding spots where branches, walls, fences, flowers and other objects can add colour and interest to your composition by creating a frame. Just remember to use a longer focal length to blur your frame so all focus still falls on your subject.

 

9. Get Closer To Your Subject

Using longer zoom lenses will let you crop tighter on your subject without distortion or having to invade their personal space. This bit of extra space will leave your sitter more relaxed and as a result, you'll end up with a more pleasant portrait. As well as having a pleasing perspective your shot's background will be nicely thrown out of focus, even if you're using a smallish aperture and your backdrops only a few feet behind your subject.

Filling the frame with your subject will create a shot that has more impact, is more intimate and if you're using a longer lens, it will help flatter their features for a more pleasing shot.

10. Shoot Reflections And Silhouettes

Your subject's reflection will give you an image that's more visually interesting. For example, getting your subject to place their hands and head on a table with a reflective surface will add depth to a shot. Be creative with the surfaces you use and look for walls and objects that are reflective as well as using the more obvious reflective surfaces such as puddles and glass.
 

All photos by Joshua Waller.
 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Daily Competition

 

If you've ever taken photographs with the sun in front of you, you're likely to have experience flare, which probably spoilt your photograph. However, there are several things you can do to remove it or if you're feeling creative, you can use it in your shots to add a little romanticism, mystery and warmth to your work.

[HOOK]position_1[/HOOK] 

1. What Is Flare?

Flare is caused by direct light entering the lens, which then bounces around the glass elements causing a reduction in the photograph's contrast. Sometimes this will just make the picture look washed out and lacking vibrant colours, but often you would also see a series of coloured shapes across the photo. The shape is an image of the lens' aperture or diaphragm and will often be hexagonal. This is joined with streaks of coloured light crossing the picture. Modern lenses have multicoated lens elements and are designed to reduce flare but even with the most expensive products, it can still occur.
 

2. How Can I Stop It?

The easy way to prevent flare is to shoot with your back to the sun - a method that was always suggested in camera manuals before multicoated optics. The trouble with this suggestion is that there are many occasions when you cannot control where the sun is in relation to your subject. It's easy, for example, to ask a person to turn direction or change the angle that you shoot a flower from, but try shooting a castle on a hilltop or boat out at sea and you're usually stuck with no other choice than to face the sun.

Fortunately, there are things that can be done. First, make sure the sun is at least out of the frame. If this is not possible to adjust the position so that a nearby building or tree shields the sun from the camera position. Alternatively, shield the lens from the sun using your hand or a piece of card. Take care to avoid this creeping into the frame. Better still, use a lens hood.

 

3. What If I Want To Use Flare In My Shot?

 

It's easier to get flare with less expensive lenses and be prepared to work lower to the ground, laying down if it's needed to get the sun in the right position. Remember, you're trying to get the camera to do something it's designed not to do so work in manual and trust your own judgement as your camera will keep telling you your shot is blown out. Position yourself so you're shooting into the sun, just before it starts setting and remember to adjust your exposure so your subject doesn't come out as a silhouette. Don't be afraid to use overexposed backgrounds as this will add to the effect and switch to manual focus if your lens keeps searching for a focus point, which it might do as the background will be the lightest part of your shot so it probably won't want to focus on your subject. If you want to shoot some indoor portraits this technique works just as well with your subject positioned against a window or patio doors.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

It is happening quietly. Working photographers, the kind who built audiences in the 30,000 to 200,000 follower range over five or ten years, are deleting their accounts, archiving their grids, or simply going silent. There are no farewell posts. No dramatic announcements. The accounts just stop updating, and a few months later they are gone. 

If you have noticed it in your own feed, you are not imagining it. The exodus is real, it is accelerating, and the reasons are not the ones the platform's defenders want to talk about.

[Read More]

Shooting intimate water scenes in landscape photography is one of the most overlooked ways to build a compelling portfolio. You don't need dramatic mountain vistas or sweeping coastlines to create striking images. 

[Read More]

The pressure to nail every frame is one of the most common things that stalls creative growth. A decades-old classroom experiment reveals exactly why that pressure works against you, and what actually produces better images over time. 

[Read More]

Megapixel count is one of the most debated specs in photography, and the question of how few you can get away with for large prints is one that rarely gets a straight answer. Keith Cooper put that question to a real test using a camera from 2002 and actual prints made today, and the results are worth seeing. 

[Read More]

 

Captured during a quiet evening on the coast, Tranquil Twilight by kenwil shows Southport Pier reaching out over the still, shallow water at dusk. The low tide sets the stage, but the real magic is the way the sky reflects perfectly on the wet sand. The vivid sunset light breaks through at the horizon, cutting through the heavy, dark clouds above. The curved lamp posts along the pier lead you right to the pavilion at the end, making for an excellent composition that feels incredibly balanced. All together, it’s a beautiful coastal shot that really nails the peaceful yet moody feel of twilight.

Every Photo of the Week (POTW) winner will be rewarded with a Samsung 128GB PRO Plus microSDXC memory card with SD adapter, providing top-tier storage for all your creative needs across multiple devices. But that's not all! In January 2027, we’ll crown our 2026 Photo of the Year winner, who will take home the ultimate prize of a Samsung Portable 1TB SSD T7 Shield, courtesy of Samsung. It’s time to shoot, submit, and showcase your best work for a chance to win these incredible rewards!

Shooting in raw is so ingrained in modern photography that giving it up for a month sounds almost reckless. This photographer does exactly that, and what he finds out about his own habits is more revealing than any gear review. 

[Read More]

Make the most of the flowers currently in bloom and have a go at a bit of creative flower photography. Below you'll find links to flower photography tutorials with advice on using macro lenses, dealing with messy backgrounds, working on a budget and for when the weather turns, tips on photographing flowers indoors. Each feature also has a picture-perfect flower shot next to it for inspiration - enjoy!  

 

1. Backlighting Flowers For Photography

 

2. Four Ways To Shoot More 'Arty' Themed Flower Images

 

3. Flowers - An Alternative Approach

 

4. Six Outdoor Flower Photography Tips Every Compact User Needs

 

5. 3 Top Tips To Improve Bluebell Photography

 

6. Abstract Flower Photography Tips

 

 

7. 10 Top Tips On Photographing Daffodils

 

8. Take Better Photos Of Public Gardens With These 5 Tips

 

 

9. Eight Techniques To Improve Your Garden Photos

 

10. 4 Essential Tips On Photographing Snowdrops

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Conferences are a common subject matter for many professional photographers and videographers, and I recently worked on one for a client and wanted to share how I prepared to cover it. Whether you're planning to cover a conference professionally or for fun, I hope my experience helps you prepare and execute coverage of one. 

[Read More]

Photography has a money problem. Not a "there is not enough of it" problem, although that is also true for many photographers. A deeper problem: the photography community has developed a set of cultural patterns around money that no other professional industry tolerates, and those patterns are actively suppressing income for everyone in the field. 

[Read More]

The Sony a7 V sits at $2,900 and bills itself as an enthusiast camera, but its feature set tells a different story. Whether you shoot stills, video, or both, what's inside this body has real implications for how far it can take your work. 

[Read More]

The Fujifilm X-T5 has been on the market for nearly four years, and the question of whether it still holds up is worth asking seriously. At 40 megapixels in an APS-C body priced well below full frame alternatives, it sits in an unusual spot. 

[Read More]

Choosing photo editing software is harder than it used to be. With Lightroom Classic no longer the only serious option, five credible alternatives now compete for your workflow, each with real tradeoffs in power, speed, and learning curve. 

[Read More]

Shooting film won't make you a better photographer. The real argument isn't about film versus digital; it's about where creative intention actually comes from. 

[Read More]

    Wonky horizons are the bane of many landscape and cityscape photographers as a horizon that's slightly off-tilt can spoil what's otherwise a perfectly good shot. Of course, there will be times when holding your camera at an angle so the horizon line is deliberately not straight but if you do want to do this, make sure it's really obvious as otherwise, it'll just look like you forgot to check your frame before hitting the shutter button.   How To Straighten Horizons    1. Line it up with the bottom or top of your frame   The easiest way to ensure you have horizontal horizons is to line it up with the bottom or top of your frame, either in your viewfinder or on the LCD screen. Some cameras also have a digital spirit level feature which will indicate to you when the camera is level  - both on the horizontal and vertical planes. It can be displayed in the viewfinder or on the back monitor when using Live View, along with all your other settings. When the marker is in the middle of the gauge and turns green, you know you're level.     2. Rule of thirds grid  If you don't have a digital spirit level, have a look in your camera's menu options to see if there's a rule of thirds grid. We know this isn't designed for this purpose but the grid will have horizontal lines on it that can be a handy guide when you're looking for a quick way to check the horizon.          3. Use a spirit level Another option is to purchase a spirit level that sits on your camera's hot shoe and to use a tripod as you're more likely to move / not hold the camera straight when you shooting hand-held.      4. Post Production  Of course, you can always straighten your images in whatever editing software you use as well but it's good practise to get it right in-camera whenever possible.    

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition