Photography News

Growth in photography often feels like a series of overwhelming choices. We look at different genres and techniques, trying to find a starting point that feels right. But the most effective roadmap for development is found in a classic idea you've probably heard: great artists don't just copy, they steal. 

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Most Lightroom Classic users stick to the same handful of tools and never dig into what the software can actually do. The masking system alone, when used to its full potential, can give you precise, layered control over every part of an image that most basic edits can't touch. 

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While some of us were indoors spraying Windex on our groceries during the COVID-19 pandemic, others took the time to explore how to visually relate to that time through passion projects. Photographer and author John Lazzaro did just that, spending those years and then some exploring, photographically, the history of sanatoriums in the United States to produce his latest book, Sanatorium. 

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Converging lines in photos of buildings and trees are one of those problems that seem minor until you can't unsee them. Lightroom Classic's Transform tool can fix most of them in minutes, and knowing how to use it correctly saves you from spending thousands on specialized glass. 

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Today, I'd like to have a chat about Nikon's latest version of its workhorse 70-200mm zoom lens, the NIKKOR Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S II. 

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The Nikon ZR is built around the Nikon and RED collaboration, and on paper it looks like a specialist tool most people would pass on. But Matt Day's hands-on experience with it over several weeks raises real questions about whether it punches above its weight, even for everyday use. 

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Post-processing has long been the most time-consuming part of a photographer's workflow, and the numbers back that up. According to the 2026 Zenfolio State of the Photography Industry report, about 70% of photographers spend between 26% and 75% of their working time on editing. Only 5% of photographers surveyed feel they are managing the stress of running their business well. 

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Lightroom's share feature is one of those tools that sounds simple but has enough depth to change how you deliver photos to clients and subjects. If you photograph people and want them to walk away with easy access to their images, the built-in sharing and QR code system in Lightroom is worth understanding fully. 

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Not having the horizon in the right place or focusing so much on other aspects that you forget to check that the horizon is actually straight is an easy mistake that many will hold their hand up to making.

This doesn't mean you can't experiment with horizon angles but if you do, you need to make it obvious as a small tilt will just look like you didn't check the viewfinder before hitting the shutter button. The same goes for the positioning of the horizon as if it's positioned badly, it can distract the viewer as well as spoil the composition of your shot.

 

1. How To Keep Horizons Straight

 

To stop your landscapes looking like they're going to slide out of the side of the frame, consider investing in a small spirit level (if your tripod doesn't already have one) that can be attached to your camera or, if your camera has one, use the grid intended for helping with the rule of thirds as a guide as even though this isn't really what they were designed for, they're made up of straight lines so can be helpful when struggling to tell what level is.

  2. Where To Put The Horizon?

 

It's important that your horizon doesn't cut through the centre of your image If the sky's more interesting move it down and if the land's what the viewer should be looking at move it up. That way, they'll know where their focus is meant to be.

If you're at the coast, shooting the sea and the sky has particularly interesting cloud formations or it's an amazing sunset, lower the horizon so the sky fills most of the frame. But if you want to include some foreground interest or create the sense of distance in your image, move the horizon up. Just remember to use a small aperture so you get front-to-back sharpness.

Of course, there are times when breaking the rules do work, such as when your photo includes an eye-catching reflection in a lake, so don't dismiss putting your horizons in the centre of your images completely.

There may be a time when you're shooting a landscape where the shapes and patterns of the land are enough to hold the viewer's attention so removing the horizon completely from the shot would work, too. 

 

3. How To Adjust The Horizon's Position

 

You can either tilt the camera, move its position higher or lower or take your shot as normal and crop the image later when you're in front of your computer.

If you have lots of vertical shapes such as trees and tall buildings in your shot, tilting the camera can cause perspective problems. However, if you're at the coast without a building in sight you should be fine.

To give your camera more/less height adjust your tripod's legs. Just make sure the locks are secure before you start taking your shot as you don't want your camera to start sliding down while you're trying to frame-up. If you need more height you can adjust the centre column but do adjust the legs first before doing this as the legs offer a more stable base to work with.

 

4. How To Fix Horizons In Old Photos

 

If you do take your shot and get home before you realise it's slanting to one side or you look back at landscapes you've taken previously and notice the horizon's not quite right don't worry; a simple crop in Photoshop will have your image back upright. You can also crop your shot to shift the position of the horizon, too.
 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Everybody has different ways of traveling, and that's why bags, tripods, and even camera gear come in different shapes and sizes. Peak Design took note of that and has come out with more options.

 

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The latest winner of our popular daily photography theme which takes place in our forums have been chosen and congratulations go to mmart (Day 28 - 'Hot-Air Balloon').

 

Daily Theme Runners-Up

If you didn't win this time, keep uploading your images to the daily competition forum for another chance to win! If you're new to the Daily Theme, you can find out more about it in the Daily Theme Q&A. 

Well done to our latest runners-up, too, whose images you can take a look at below.

  Day 24

Holiday Memories

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Day 25

Garden Macro Shots

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Day 26

Summer Landscapes

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Day 27

Historic Buildings

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  Day 29

Pond Life

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Day 30

Travel Shots

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Day 31

Sunrise

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You’ll find the Daily Themes, along with other great photo competitions, over in our Forum. Take a look to see the latest daily photo contests. Open to all levels of photographer, you’re sure to find a photography competition to enter. Why not share details of competitions with our community? Join the camaraderie and upload an image to our Gallery.

On June 10, during its 25th edition, the Tribeca Festival will premiere "Dreams of Violets," a docudrama feature in which every image and every person on screen was generated by artificial intelligence.  

 

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If you travel with camera gear even a few times a year, you already know the problem. Sometimes you're heading to a wedding with a full kit and your clothes are checked. Sometimes it's a weekend trip where you need a few lenses and room for a change of clothes. And sometimes you don't need any camera gear at all and you just want a normal bag. The issue is that most bags are built for one of those scenarios, not all of them. So you end up owning three or four bags and playing a guessing game before every trip.

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Modular. Configurable. Stackable. The Pelican CRATE system could be one of the most rugged photography gear cases on the planet, even if it doesn't realize it yet. 

More Than a Box

A box is a box is a box. Right?

I'll admit that when Pelican shipped me their brand-new 90L CRATE case, my expectations were impossible to predict. That's not to say my expectations were low, but judging from the photos in Pelican's press packet, the CRATE system looked like, well, a big box.

How wrong I was.

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You know how it goes. You peel the curtain back just a fraction to get a glimpse of what kind of conditions are in store for you. It's that moment of truth. Beginner photographers might check the forecast for cloudless skies and gentle breezes—the kind of "safe" weather that makes for a pleasant walk. A more experienced photographer is checking for fog, heavy snow, or those unique, brooding storm conditions that most people run away from. Let's talk about the weather. 

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1. Gear Suggestions

A long zoom lens will be handy as you'll be able to get close to the animals without having to climb into the enclosures. Something around the 70-300mm mark or bigger would be good. Also, consider taking a macro lens along as most zoos have enclosures where you can get close to insects.

A camera with a tilting LCD screen is perfect for zoo photography and you could take a monopod along to raise your camera up above the fences but leave your tripod at home as they don't mix well with crowds.

Pack a brolly as it will most likely rain at some point during your visit and have a lens cloth handy to wipe off raindrops that will blur your shot. As you have limited angles to work with you may have to shoot into the sun so a lens hood would be handy.

A polarising filter will be good when you're shooting through glass as it reduces reflections it will also reduce the amount of bounced light so the textures and tones in fur will stand out.

 

 

2. Weather

Pay attention to the weather forecast. When it's raining you'll get drenched kit and most animals will head indoors where you can take photographs, but you'll have glass and crowds in a small space to contend with. If it's gloriously sunny is maybe too bright and you'll get very harsh shadows. You can use fill-in flash but check before you do as it's often not allowed. You're better off sticking with natural light and increasing the ISO instead. Rain's too wet and the sun's too bright but an overcast day's just right. A slight covering of cloud acts like a softbox so you'll have images that have even tones and are well balanced.

 

3. Plan And Research

Before you set off, go on the zoo's website, find a map and make a plan. Arrive early to beat the rush and try walking around the opposite way to the crowds to give yourself chance to capture shots without the crush. Feeding times are great photographic opportunities but they're popular with visitors so arrive early.

 

 

4. Cages And Glass

Unfortunately, zoos are full of cages and there's nothing worse than shooting through wires and bars! Sometimes the gaps are just big enough to poke your lens through but if they're not, get as close to the fence as possible, position your lens so it's pointing through one of the gaps or, when the fence has small gaps, make sure that the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap, use a wider aperture setting and wait for the animal to move back from the cage. This way the fence will be thrown our of focus so you, hopefully, won't even notice it. If you venture indoors you won't have fencers to contend with but glass full of greasy smudges will certainly be in your way. To minimise reflections attach a lens hood or hold your hand to the side or above the lens. If there's a lot of people touching the glass switch to a slower shutter speed to minimise shake. You may also need to switch to manual focus as cameras can be fooled by glass.

 

5. Find Good Shooting Spots & Angles

Make sure you take a walk around the edge of the enclosure before you take your photos to find shooting locations that won't leave your image with a distracting background or posts sticking out of the animal's head. Try to avoid shooting down as this can distort features instead get down low, to eye level if possible, to create a more dynamic shot. Use a wide lens setting and crop in later to make sure you don't amputate any limbs by accident – a shot of a monkey missing its tail is very can be very annoying to look at. Don't be afraid to fill the frame with your subject as this will give your shot more impact and it won't be so obvious that you took your photo at a zoo.

 

 

 

6. Focus And Shutter Speeds

Most of the animals won't stay still so use focus lock to prefocus on a certain point and take the shot as the animal enters the zone that's focused. Always focus on the eye and try using continuous shooting mode if you don't manage to get your subject in frame the first time. Try freezing their movement with a fast shutter speed and if you're panning, use a speed between 1/8sec to 1/30sec to blur the background but leave the animal sharp.

 

7. White Balance

Keep an eye on your white balance when going from indoor and outdoor enclosures and watch out for condensation when moving from the cooler outdoors into the tropical climate of a butterfly house. You'll need to give your camera time to acclimatise otherwise you'll end up with hazy, dream-like shots.

 

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Daily Forum Competition

Shopping for Hasselblad glass is not a casual decision. These lenses sit at the top of medium format photography, and knowing exactly what each one delivers in real-world shooting can save you from a very expensive mistake. 

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The Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG DN Art is one of the most talked-about lenses in the Sony E-mount ecosystem right now, and for good reason. At around $1,000, it sits in a crowded tier alongside the Sony FE 35mm f/1.4 GM and the Viltrox 35mm f/1.2 AF. 

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You're right. Rule 21 says to use standard header order, which means the top-level section headers should be H2, not H3. I should have promoted them rather than demoting the stray H4 down to match the H3s. Corrected below.

I recently got off the phone with a friend who was just appointed creative director for a legendary celebrity. It's a massive win, a career-defining promotion, and yet—he was hiding it. He was shy about announcing it because he didn't want to deal with the inevitable "chatter" from the sidelines.

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The Lomography Petzval 55mm f/1.7 is one of the most distinctive lenses you can put on a camera, and its new focus-coupled version changes the case for buying it in ways that aren't obvious at first glance. If you've ever been curious about swirly bokeh lenses but hesitated because of how awkward they are to use, this update is worth your attention. 

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