Photography News

Snow can be quite tricky to capture and can leave many beginner photographers asking questions. To help them out, here we will answer some of the most frequently asked questions about snow photography.

 

Photo by David Pritchard

Why can snow appear grey?
This is because your camera's metering system is fooled by the highly reflective tones of the white snow.

As Pete said in a previous article: "All cameras have built in metering systems that are designed to deliver a perfect picture assuming the contrast range is normal. They do this by scrambling the tones and then adjust so the scrambled colour brightness is mid-grey or average. This is fine when the subject has a wide tonal range with everything from black to white being present, but when the subject is predominantly white, such as snow, the camera underexposes so that the white becomes grey."

If you are using a compact camera it most likely has a snow scene mode and by switching to this, your once grey snow should appear white.

For those using more advanced cameras you can get around this by adjusting the exposure compensation setting to either  plus 1 or two stops depending on the amount of snow in the picture.

if your camera has the exposure lock feature, which is usually set by half-pressing the shutter button, point it at a mid-tone in your scene, lock the exposure then recompose your shot.

Why can snow appear blue?
As mentioned above, the camera sees the snow as a mid-tone and underexposes the shot as a result. When your camera does this on a day when you're shooting under a blue sky, you'll end up with blue snow as the scene's being lit by sun reflecting off the sky. You can do as we mentioned above and use exposure compensation or you can try switching from auto white balance to shade. Alternatively, if you shoot in RAW you can make changes to the colour balance quite easily once you're back in front of your computer.

 

Why does my snow shoot look boring?
As mentioned above, stopping the exposure down a little to give a little more depth and atmosphere to the shot should stop your scene appearing as a bland, boring scene of white that doesn't have much difference in tone.

Another reason that your shot may look a little boring is that there's nothing to break the blank white scene up.  Walls, trees, rocks or even people can be used to add a bit of contrast to the scene.

 

Why has my lens steamed up?
Moving from indoors to the cold outdoors can result in fogged-up lenses. As a result you need to let your camera acclimatise before taking photos. Try to avoid wiping the condensation off with a cloth as this can lead to smudges which can be visible in your shots.

 

How can I stop the sky looking boring and grey?
This is a common problem when trying to take snowy photos, as most of the time when it's snowing, the sky will be very overcast and cloudy. To get around this, why not wait until it stops snowing and the sky clears a little. A blue sky will improve your snowy scene, just remember what we said about checking your white balance.

If you do want to shoot while the snow is falling, make sure you turn your flash off because the flash will reflect off the nearby flakes making the picture full of large blurry blobs that distract, plus your image will be dark. A better way to capture snow falling is to put your camera on a tripod and use slower shutter speeds. Take a look at these examples that show a snow shot taken with flash and one without:

 

 

 

What equipment might I need to improve my shots?

Tripod – As mentioned above, this will be great for if you want to capture slow shutter speed shots to really capture the snowflakes falling and create a sense of heavy snow. You may need your camera's inbuilt spirit level if it has one, to make sure your tripod is straight in the snow.

Filters – Graduated grey filters are ideal for darkening light skies to create moody shots.

Rain Sleeve – If you're planning to stay out in falling snow for a long time with your camera out, then you should consider keeping it dry, as after a while snow will start to melt on your camera. The rain sleeve will keep your camera safe while still allowing you to access all your camera settings. If you have a smaller camera and want extra protection against the elements, then you could improvise and use a freezer bag with a hole cut out for the lens. Although this isn't as waterproof!   

 

When you're new to photography and are not quite ready to venture into the manual world, the basic shooting modes available on your camera's dial can help you get a better photo, in certain situations. These are pre-programmed modes which can be used to shoot a particular subject or scene.

Almost all digital cameras these days will have at least macro, sport, landscape, night, movie and portrait modes. Plus, there are a few modes/features that are individual to each camera.

These scene modes are usually easy to find on your camera. They will either be found on the wheel which sits on the top of your camera or they will be clearly marked on the camera's menu system.

Your camera's manual will give you more details on specific modes but to get you started, here's a quick rundown of what popular modes are available and when you'd use them:

 

Portrait Mode

Portrait mode's obviously for portraits and it tells your camera you're photographing a subject where you want the background to be blurred so all attention falls on them. By selecting this mode, the camera picks a larger aperture (smaller f-number) to throw the background out of focus.

 

 

Sports Mode (Action)

This tells the camera to use a quicker shutter speed so you can freeze the action/movement in front of you. It's designed to be used with moving subjects so try it out when you're by the football pitch or capturing cars at the go-kart track. Having a camera with fast AF, such as those available in the NX series, will also increase your chances of capturing a sharp action shot.

 

 

Beach/Snow Mode

Beach scene shooting mode is as the name suggests a mode to use when shooting pictures on a beach. Sand reflects a lot of light and fools cameras into underexposing so the shot comes out dark. When sand is recorded dark it looks muddy and not the lovely golden yellow depending on the time of day and weather conditions. The Beach scene mode increases the exposure slightly to compensate but also adjusts the white balance to make the sand look more natural. This mode is sometimes combined with a Snow scene mode which causes similar exposure problems for a camera. It's great for quick snaps on the beach when you're out on day trips or on holiday with your family.

 

 

Landscape Mode

This tells the camera you want front-to-back sharpness so it will select a smaller aperture (larger f-number) to give you this. This mode sometimes boosts the greens in an image as you'll tend to be shooting scenes that have more of this shade in it with this mode. Be careful if it's a little dull though as the camera may use a slower shutter speed due to the smaller aperture size which can result in shake if you're not using a tripod.

 

 

Macro Mode (Close Up)

When shooting insects, flowers, coins and other small objects, this is the mode you want. Different cameras will have a different macro focusing distance but all of them do let your camera know you'll be shooting something that's small and fairly close to your lens, with a narrow depth of field. A tripod will be a big help when working in this mode as the tiniest of movements can cause your shot to go out of focus.

 

 

Movie Mode

This mode lets you shoot short videos with sound. Some cameras also capture HD movies. 
 

Other Modes that feature on some cameras include:

• Panoramic – Create wide-screen shots by simply choosing the Panorama Mode while moving the camera in the direction you want. 
• Kids/Pets Mode – This is similar to Action/Sport Mode as it is designed to help you capture fast-moving objects by quickening the shutter speed.
• Fireworks Mode – Obviously, it's for photographing fireworks but it can also be used for light painting too.
• Sunset – to help you capture the colours of a sunset in all its glory
• Dawn – for those photographers who get up early to shoot their landscapes
• Text - photograph text in documents clearly and easily with this mode.

Short days and cold nights don't make it very appealing to head outside in search of interesting photographic subjects so here are five photographic ideas for you to try without leaving your home.

  Shoot Indoor Close-Ups

This is one for ebay fans but it's also a great technique for photographers who want to get into still life photography to try. In this article Pete shows you how to deal with different types of light, shares tips on diffusing it and discusses reflections.
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Have A Go At An Indoor Portrait

If it's cold and cloudy outside have a go at shooting indoor portraits with window light. Cloudy days diffuse the light so you can create flattering portraits from the comfort of your own home with the free light that flows through your windows.

Brighten Your Window Portraits

After you've shot your indoor portraits have a read of our Photoshop tutorial which will show you how to even out the brightness levels of your shots.

It doesn't take too long to do and is something you can do on any day when the weather's not playing ball outside.

Indoor Flower Photography

It may be a little too early to head out into your garden in search of flowers that are worth photographing, however you can still have a go at shooting a few bouquets at home. Just purchase a few specimens from the shop and have a read of our indoor flower photography article to get some inspiration.

  Get Creative With Household Objects

Follow John Gravett's advice and you'll soon be shooting objects you thought were boring in a whole new light. In his piece he puts cutlery, paperweights and even a slinky in front of his camera to show you how easy it is to make creative abstracts from ordinary objects.

Shoot Bokeh Christmas Light Portraits

Learn how you can use small LED lights to add interest to your indoor portrait shots. You don't need loads of kit, it's fun to do and it's something everyone can have a go at.

 

You've read the technique now share your related photos for the chance to win prizes: Photo Month Forum Competition  

 

If you recently got your hands on a new camera (many probably did for Christmas), you may be wondering what you should do next. Here, we’ve come up with a few first steps that will help any photography novice on the way to stunning shots.
 

Step 1 - Read The Manual

Yes, we know it’s boring, and it takes a while to find the right language sometimes, but your manual will have invaluable information about your particular camera, straight from the manufacturer. Read what the manufacturer has to say, and then build on your knowledge as you go along.
 

Step 2 - Familiarise Yourself With The Camera

Turn the camera on, and familiarise yourself with what dial does what. Have a run through the menus on your camera so you have an idea of where to head when you’re out and about for the first time, saving you time if a shot presents itself.

 

Step 3 - Experiment

When you know your way around the camera, the next step is to have a go with it. This may sound obvious, but if you don’t have a quick play and see what images you can produce with various settings, you won’t know what to look for when you head out to get some professional-style shots. Have a go at shooting using every aspect of the camera, to gain knowledge – you never know when an opportunity may present itself that requires the use of a mode that you know how to use through having a play.

Step 4 - Get Online

When you know how to use the camera and are looking for inspiration and like-minded people to share your shots with, this is where ePHOTOzine comes in! We have a wealth of knowledge and ideas on the site to help you achieve those stunning shots you’ve always wanted. Search the site for anything photography related using the magnifying glass in the toolbar – you’ll more than likely find it!

Now's also the perfect time to join +. What is +? Well, if you love photography, and want to get the very best out of the site, then Plus is the ideal product for you. You can find more information about the membership here.
 

Step 5 - Find Your Niche

Once you’ve gotten to know your camera, have been out, taken some shots and read up on your areas of interest, you may find that you like, or are better at certain areas of photography. Build on these, and they will become your area of expertise. By discovering what you like and what you are good at, you can hone your skills and become the very best in an area of photography that you love.

 

Elinchrom UK has announced the full Live Stage speaker schedule for the 2026 London Photo Trade Show, taking place from 15–17 January 2026 at Novotel London West, Hammersmith.

The Elinchrom Live Stage will feature a packed programme of live demonstrations and expert-led talks from leading UK photographers, offering practical insights into creative lighting techniques using Elinchrom equipment. Sessions are designed to appeal to photographers working across portrait, newborn, maternity, commercial, product and specialist genres.

Throughout the event, Elinchrom specialists will also be available on Stand 70–71, providing hands-on demonstrations and advice on lighting setups and solutions tailored to individual photographic workflows.

Live Stage Programme Highlights

Thursday 15 January 2026

• 11:30 – Bjorn Thomassen: Top 5 Features to Elevate Your Portrait Photography (Live Demo)
• 12:30 – Russ Jackson: Lighting New Life: A Live Newborn Photography Demo
• 14:00 – Victoria Baptiste: Just Shoot It: Ditching Perfection & Finding Your Voice (Live Demo)
• 15:00 – James Musselwhite: Four Portraits in 60 Seconds (Live Demo)

Friday 16 January 2026

• 10:30 – Neil Shearer: Liven Up Your Product Photography (Live Demo)
• 11:30 – James Musselwhite: One Light Portraits (Live Demo)
• 12:30 – James Musselwhite vs Paul Wilkinson: Live Photographic Lighting Shootout
• 14:00 – Russ Jackson: Shaping the Glow: Maternity Lighting Live (Live Demo)
• 15:00 – Gary Hill: Creative Headshots (Live Demo)

Saturday 17 January 2026

• 10:30 – Gary Hill: Glitz & Glam: Professional Lighting in Action (Live Demo)
• 11:30 – Jessica McGovern: Lighting with Character: A Live Dog Photography Demo
• 12:30 – Scott Johnson: One Light, Endless Possibilities (Live Demo)
• 14:00 – Paul Wilkinson: Mastering Portrait Photography (Live Demo)
• 15:00 – Julian Fulton: Confidence Through the Lens: Photographing Boudoir with Purpose (Live Talk)

 

 

The London Photo Trade Show is one of the UK’s leading photography industry events, bringing together photographers, brands and educators for three days of learning, networking and hands-on experience. Trade Show attendance is free, with registration closing on 1 January 2026.

For full event details and registration information, please visit: https://thesocieties.net/convention/

Live Stage proudly supported by Elinchrom UK

Register now for FREE tickets!

© Fujifilm

 

Fujifilm Corporation announced a major investment of 5 billion JPY to strengthen its production facilities for instax films at the Ashigara Site in the Kanagawa Factory. This move is designed to meet the growing global demand for the popular instax series.

The new production lines will start operating in stages from spring 2026 and are expected to be fully running by autumn 2026. Once complete, Fujifilm will increase its instax film production capacity by about 10 percent compared to FY2025.

 

Global growth of instax

Since its launch in 1998, instax cameras and films have become a worldwide brand available in more than 100 countries. The lineup has grown from instant cameras to hybrid instant cameras, smartphone printers, and compact palm‑sized cameras. Fujifilm also introduced instax Biz, an application that allows businesses to create custom photo templates for events.

 

Continuous investment

Fujifilm has been investing in instax film production facilities since 2022. With 2 billion JPY invested in 2022, 4.5 billion JPY in 2023, and this latest 5 billion JPY investment, the total investment now reaches about 11.5 billion JPY. As a result, production capacity will rise by about 50 percent compared to FY2022.

 

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Company statement

Fujifilm stated it will continue to explore new possibilities in photography and expand the world of instax instant photo printing, giving people more ways to enjoy photos on the spot.

 

Investment overview

• Company: Fujifilm Corporation, Ashigara Site, Kanagawa Factory
• Location: 210 Nakanuma, Minami-Ashigara-shi, Kanagawa, Japan
• Total Investment: Approx. 5 billion JPY
• Details: New production lines for instax films and related facilities
• Operation Start: Spring 2026, fully operational by autumn 2026

 

How instax film works

• Instax film uses silver halide photography technology with 18 layers that react to light.
• When the film is ejected, developer fluid spreads evenly across the surface to start the chemical reaction.
• Excess fluid is absorbed by the frame, and the photo gradually appears in about 90 seconds.

instax and instax Biz are registered trademarks of Fujifilm Corporation.

 

For more information, please visit the Fujifilm website.

 

The UK’s most exciting photography Convention is back — bigger, bolder and packed with more inspiration, education and industry powerhouses than ever before.

 

The 2026 London Photo Convention & Trade Show brings thousands of photographers together under one roof for four days of hands-on learning, live demos, exclusive deals, and world-class speakers. If you’re serious about your photography — this is where you need to be.

FREE Trade Show: 15–17 January — Meet the Biggest Brands in Photography

Get ready for three electric days on the Trade Show floor, with leading camera and lighting brands showcasing their latest kit. Expect:

• Hands-on access to the newest cameras & lenses
• Live demonstrations from top pros
• Expert advice from manufacturers
• Show-only offers and exclusive discounts
• Retailers showcasing must-have accessories

Whether you're upgrading, testing, comparing or just curious — the Trade Show is 100% free to attend and absolutely packed.

 

Exclusive Code For FREE Entry:

Pre-register using code EPFREE to receive FREE Trade Show entry. Offer valid until 12 January 2026.

Register for FREE tickets!

 

 

Over 200 Hours of Training with Masterclasses & Superclasses

If you're hungry to learn, the Convention’s education programme is unmatched.

Masterclasses

Dive into a huge lineup of practical, inspiring and business-boosting sessions covering:

• Portraits
• Weddings
• Lighting
• Wildlife
• Macro
• Post-production
• Creative storytelling
• Branding
• Business growth for photographers

Top photographers, award-winning educators and industry leaders share the techniques and insights that elevate your photography fast.

Superclasses

Want hands-on training with the best in the business?

The Superclasses deliver small-group, practical workshops with some of the most respected names in the industry. Limited spaces — these sell out fast every single year.

 

 

Exclusive Offer

Save 10% with code epz10 on all class tickets!

  The Photography Event You Simply Can’t Afford to Miss

If you want to improve your skills, grow your business, network with other creatives and immerse yourself in the world of photography — this is your event.

 

Save the Dates

Full Convention: 14–17 January 2026

FREE Trade Show: 15–17 January 2026

Venue: Novotel London West, Hammersmith, W6 8DR

 

Join thousands of photographers for the ultimate start to 2026.

Masterclass Passes and Superclasses available now.

Book your tickets now!

 

 

If you enjoyed our technique on cross polarisation photography have a look at this variation. As it is winter I thought we'd take an icy deviation to the standard plastic cross polarising effect. Here we've still used plastic but added a colourful background to a frozen texture.
 

Gear Suggestions

All you need is a CD case, some tape and a little bit of pre-planning, along with the essential hardware comprising of a camera with any lens (ideally with a close up mode), LCD computer monitor and a polarising filter. Oh, and a steady support for the camera.

It doesn't matter if your camera doesn't have a filter thread (often the case when using compact cameras) as you can hold the filter over the lens when taking the shot.
 

The Set-Up 

First the preparation. Prise out the CD retaining tray (the bit with the clips that go through the centre of the cd to hold it in the jewel case) out of a standard CD jewel case. Use the Album type not the slimline or clam case. Close the case and tape around all the edges where there are gaps to make the sides and base water tight. Make sure the top gap is open so you can pour water in. Fill it with water through the gap on top and insert it into your fridge's ice box.

When it's frozen set up your mini studio set. Turn on the computer monitor and set it so the background is uncluttered. A standard mid grey desktop is perfect, avoid a fancy pattern. If you don't have one and cannot work out how to change your windows desktop pattern open up a mid-grey image in an image editing program and expand it to fill the screen. 

As the ice will melt quickly in the tray it's best to set up using a different CD case so you can arrange everything and switch to the icy one when you're ready to take a photo.  So position your stand-in CD case about 20-30cm in front of the screen. I used a McClamp, but you could use any form of support or even just pile up some books and balance it on top. Remember that the ice will melt as you take photos so you'll need some sheet to protect books and a cloth to mop up excess water. If you're quick you won't end up with much mess.

Position the camera in front of the CD case with the lens set to fill the frame with a portion of the case. If your camera doesn't focus close enough to fill the frame shoot as close as you can and crop the picture when taken. Again you can use books as a support and stack them to the necessary height. Alternatively use a tripod which gives a sturdier and much more versatile support.
 

 

Add The Ice

When everything is set up, switch from stand-in CD to the real ice-filled CD. Take the front of the case so you have the ice layer and then the back of the case. Balance on your support and make sure the camera back is parallel to the case so you maximise sharpness.

Now, adjust the camera position to frame in on a specific are of the ice. Areas with cracks or large bubbles can look best. The ice slab will provide lots of different textures and by rotating the polariser you can deliver different colours from the same position.

Focus carefully on the bubbles so they look really clear. You can shoot on automatic as the metering should be pretty accurate.

If you're using a camera without a filter thread hold the polariser to your eye and rotate around until the screen goes black. keep the filter in that position and move it in front of the lens.  The shutter speed will probably be slow so set the camera to the self-time mode and take pictures using that. The 2 or 10-second delay is enough to allow the camera to be still before the photo is taken.

Take pictures until the ice begins to melt fast. You have about 10 - 20 minutes before a puddle will appear.