Photography News

 

When photographers turn their attention to using lengthy shutter speeds at the coast, the sea takes on a silky, mist-like quality that meanders and contrasts against dark rocks and other strong static subjects found in the coastal landscape. These images are popular with landscape fans and with the right gear and a little bit of know-how, you too can capture these types of eye-catching imagery.  

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1. Time Of Day 

Early morning is a time that's favoured by photographers and it's also the perfect time when trying to create this particular effect as lower light levels increase exposure times. The downside is that ideally, you do have to get up really early, we're talking before dawn, however, if you have an ND filter in your bag, you don't have to worry about setting your alarm clock too early if you prefer later starts. 

 

2. Using ND Filters 

For those who are wondering, an ND filter will stop as much light reaching your camera's sensor and as a result, increase your exposure times. This means you can use longer shutter speeds even at times when normally, you wouldn't be able to as your shots would turn out overexposed. ND filters are available in a variety of strengths and the stronger the filter, the longer your shutter speeds will be. Variable NDs are useful when you're not sure what strength you'll need but normally, exposure times of around 30 seconds or more will really blur the motion of the water.

The problem with ND filters which have a greater density is they're very dark which can make it tricky to compose your shots through your viewfinder or when using LiveView but you can sort your settings and composition before fitting the filter under these circumstances. It's also worth noting that some cameras allow you to boost the image when using LiveView so it's worth checking your camera settings. 

Another filter you might find useful is an ND Grad for when the sky is appearing too bright when the land is correctly exposed. By fitting one in front of your lens, the exposure will be balanced and the final image is closer to how the eye sees the real thing. 

 

LiveView without the filter in place.

 

LiveView with the filter in place.

 

3. Carry Your Tripod 

Make sure you use a tripod as you'll just end up with shaky shots if you try to work without one when using longer shutter speeds. Plus, a tripod will help you ensure your horizon's straight along with your camera's grid or even a small spirit level fitted to your camera's hot-shoe. A remote or cable release will minimise shake and if your camera has the feature, put LiveView into good use but do keep an eye on your battery levels as power will be depleted quickly and you don't want the battery to die half-way through your long exposure. Finally, pack a lens cloth to keep your lens/filter sea-spray free and always clean your equipment when back home. 

 

4. Location, Location, Location

If you get the chance, scout a few locations out before you head off with your kit. Obviously, you need to be along the shore but lookout for locations where foreground detail such as rocks and driftwood will add interest to your image. Try using lower angles to exaggerate the size of rocks etc. sitting in your foreground and don't forget about your main focal point. You could even use foreground interest to guide the eye through the shot to the lighthouse, pier etc. 

 

 

5. Tide Times 

Noting the tide times is not only important from a safety perspective but you also want the water level to be at the right point along the shore. Plus, if you can time your visit for when the tide's going out, the sand will still be damp and decorated with patterns created by the receding tide and rocks will have more definition thanks to the wet surface creating shine. If you don't mind a little trial and error, you can also use the line created by the sea as it moves back out to guide the eye to your main point of interest.

 

6. Apertures, Autofocus & ISO

Narrow apertures (try f/11 or f/16 and go from there) are what you're aiming for and stick to lower ISOs. Frame up and check your composition carefully, without the filter attached if it's particularly dense. Use the autofocus function to focus on your main focal point, although the low light levels can mean your lens keeps searching so you may need to use a torch to highlight part of the scene so it can focus on it. Once happy, lock your focus, making sure you don't knock the focusing ring on your lens in the process.

 

 

7. Test Shots

Again, if you are working with a particularly dense filter, now's the time to take a test shot and check your histogram as well as the image on the screen to ensure the exposure is correct (no blinking highlights or shadows). Make a note of the shutter speed and attach the filter. You then need to use this shutter speed to help you calculate the correct exposure length. Most filters come with an information chart/conversion table to help with this or you can download an app that'll provide the same information.

If there's some of the scene visible when using LiveView it's worth just checking your composition once more before hitting your shutter release. You won't be able to make/see tiny adjustments but if something's not quite right with the overall composition, you should be able to adjust for it. If you find you need a shutter speed that's longer than the maximum shutter speed that your camera provides, use Bulb mode but make sure you have a remote / cable release to-hand so you don't introduce shake. 

If you're using a filter that's lighter (around 1-5EV stops) you should still be able to see the scene through the viewfinder or when using LiveView so you shouldn't have any problems working in aperture priority, focusing and composing your image with the filter fitted.

  8. Try Again 

If you don't get the results you want straight away, try decreasing the aperture further, use a denser ND filter or wait for slightly darker lighting conditions if you don't own another ND filter. If you don't own an ND filter at all, decrease the ISO (if possible), use an even smaller aperture and keep decreasing the shutter speed until you gain the correct exposure. Again, keep an eye on your histogram and be patient!   

 

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Some people put their pets before family and have images of their favourite dog sat alongside their wedding, holiday and children's pictures. This might be you too! Of course, you are stuck if you do not have a dog, but the odds are you know someone with one so if you are really keen, finding a subject is not an issue.
 

1. Kit Suggestions 

 

In terms of kit, all you need is a camera with a lens or two. Or you could try something like using a Lens Baby for a different effect. If you're heading to a dog show consider taking a smaller camera bag as space can be a premium and leave the tripod at home. 
 

2. Do They Like The Camera?

 

Having a trained dog that's used to being in front of a camera will make things easier. You don't want to get your camera out to find they either want to eat it or won't come near you because they're unsure about it. Some dog could not give two hoots; others will just scamper away.

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3. Get Them Running Around 

 

Pet photography is a popular subject, but most people tend to snap their dog when sitting, rather than capturing the active moments dogs are well known for.

Shots of your pet running and chasing around are far more interesting than a static shot of them sat on a rug in front of the fire. But to capture them it takes some planning and dogs running around are fast and they can be unpredictable. Having someone with you (your partner? Kids?) definitely will be a help because you can ask them to call for the dog while you concentrate on shooting.

Try autofocus with continuous shooting and see if it can track the subject. It might cope well but as dogs move quickly and their coats are low contrast, autofocus can be tricky so try manually pre-focusing on a particular spot and when your dog runs to it, press the shutter.

You'll need a reasonably fast shutter but not so fast that the dog is frozen in the image. Having a mix of sharpness and blur can work well, or just use an even slower shutter speed for more blur to exaggerate its movement. 
 

4. Get Down Low 

 

We're used to standing and looking down on dogs so a shot from this height is nothing special. So instead, try getting down to your dog's eye level or even lower. Kneel, lie (but there's no need to roll over!) to produce a much more dynamic and interesting shot. With features like LiveView, getting a composition from ground-level is easy enough. Of course, there are times when shooting from a higher angle works well such as in the shot at the top of the article.

  5. Exposure Tips 

 

Expose for the dog and not the surroundings. If you have a particularly dark or light dog you may find exposure compensation helps the camera meter correctly. As with human portraiture, it's also important for the eyes to be sharp but again, due to the speed they move, this can be difficult to perfect.
 

6. Natural Light Is Your Friend

 

Natural light is good but as with humans, dogs look less good in contrasty light. For maximum detail in the coat, a bright sky when the sun is gently diffused by high cloud can work well. If the day is quite dull, try fitting the flashgun to lighten the shadows or try underexposing the daylight so your lit subject stands out proudly from a darker sky - it can be a great look.
 

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